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Hmm...

Initial likes: There are the obvious (handling, sound, etc.) I like the option for rev-matching. I like that even the Eco mode doesn't seem overly ...gimpy. (I find it funny that Eco mode as after Sport mode. So I hear the exhaust perk up when it selects Sport mode, only to get all depressed switching to Eco. xD

Initial dislikes: No homelink ( do manufacturers suddenly think all the garage doors in the world disappeared? ) Android Auto REQUIRES a cable ( rephrased: I wish there was more than one USB media port so I can do AA *and* have a thumbdrive of music. ) I do wish the sound system was better (either better speakers or better headunit.) It may just be me ( and not having a manual for almost 10 years ), but the throw on the clutch pedal seems REALLY long for this car. The "bite"/friction zone is REALLY short for such a long travel. ...just seems odd. Oh, and the view out the rear-view mirror is almost useless.

All that said... I f'n love this car so far. I'm looking forward to many, many, miles at the helm.

--JamesT
 

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Hmm...

Initial likes: There are the obvious (handling, sound, etc.) I like the option for rev-matching. I like that even the Eco mode doesn't seem overly ...gimpy. (I find it funny that Eco mode as after Sport mode. So I hear the exhaust perk up when it selects Sport mode, only to get all depressed switching to Eco. xD

Initial dislikes: No homelink ( do manufacturers suddenly think all the garage doors in the world disappeared? ) Android Auto REQUIRES a cable ( rephrased: I wish there was more than one USB media port so I can do AA *and* have a thumbdrive of music. ) I do wish the sound system was better (either better speakers or better headunit.) It may just be me ( and not having a manual for almost 10 years ), but the throw on the clutch pedal seems REALLY long for this car. The "bite"/friction zone is REALLY short for such a long travel. ...just seems odd. Oh, and the view out the rear-view mirror is almost useless.

All that said... I f'n love this car so far. I'm looking forward to many, many, miles at the helm.

--JamesT
The clutch on this car uses an electronic switch. That's why the grab point is so narrow on the N. But I find its the same exact grab point everytime though. You will get use too it. The only thing that is frustrating to me is the wheel hop between 1st and 2nd. Hyundai could have used some stiffer bushings on the RMM, but they were going for a smooth ride too in Normal Mode. Everybody says the car is whimpy in Normal Mode, but mine isn't at all. It will get down and move and still chirp the tires between 1st and 2nd, but feels way more "loose" I shall say then Sport Mode or the N Modes. Extremely dislike all the brake dust, but thats what you get with big brakes. Not looking forward too buying new pads either, or rotors! But the kick is A$$ is Arkansas is going to make me pay $700 a year for just owning that car after they have already gotten $2000 out of me for state tax's on it. Gotta love taxation!!!That was a tangent, sorry. There are definitely way more likes for me in this car than my dislikes. And most of the dislikes can be fixed with better performance upgrades. Albert Biermann said himself that he designed the car for the enthusiast, the people who are going to put better tires or rims on, or a better intercooler. All these things they knew it was going to happen, and in my opinion that is why this car has a Track Warranty on it. When your Head Engineer says the car is built for the track you really don't have an option. Ha. But it is awesome that Hyundai is letting us change some parts out and have fun with car and still maintain warranty.I will probably never put a tune on the car, but do plan to do a lot of upgrades.
 

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After some thought, something else I don't like about the VN is that everyone wants to race or be a punk a$$, I had 3 different people messing with me yesterday on the way home from the mall, wtf?!?! The street isn't a racetrack!! Rant over:)
Had a Focus ST come up on my tail last night on the highway and hung out there a bit until they gunned it hard and passed...seemingly trying to get me to take the bait.

Minor dislikes:
As others have mentioned, excessive brake dust is annoying, but the stopping power is great.
Would have liked the option of heated seats and steering.
No official central jacking points.
Recommended 0W-30 options are hard to come by (if that’s what you choose to run)
The driver seat belt hanger flops down too easily (weary of how long it will last)
No available hitch for bike rack
When you’re not on it, it’s harder to achieve good fuel economy.
XM station up/down don’t work from the steering controls


Likes:
Power to be where you want, when you want.
Looks (constrained aggression).
3 pedals... save the manuals.
Multi-mode exhaust (Jekyll & Hyde as you like).
Too much else to think of.
 

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XM channel up/down works to go through your presets, or are you trying to go through all the xm stations?
 

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Yes. Have to use the dash up/down to move through all the xm stations. Not a big deal, just not as convenient.
 

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Minor dislikes:
Recommended 0W-30 options are hard to come by (if that’s what you choose to run)
i found this. read in order.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5083171/oil-selection-for-hyundai-veloster-n-newer-engine-limited-existing-oil
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-Platinum-Euro-L-5W-30-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-qt/495194903

Note that the Plat Euro L (not LX) is ACEA C3 rated. From basic research, I see that C3 oil has a higher High Temp High Shear (HTHS) rating but not sure how that translates into actual ability to keep our engines lubricated.
 

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is 0W-30 even available as a non-synthetic?
https://www.lubrizol.com/Lubricant-and-Fuel-Additives/Engine-Oil-Additives/ACEA/Sequences/ACEA-C2-10
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-acea-car-engine-oils-specification-explained.aspx

I'm not an expert, just sharing what I've found through some research.

Basically all of those acronyms refer to industry groups and their own classification/rating system for motor oil. The manual specifies a range of oils that are acceptable for the VN engine, but that's just the start. You can go down a deep, deep rabbit hole regarding what an optimal oil is on some forums, and all of that information is tainted by people who just post anecdotal and possibly wrong results. If you want to be extra hardcore, you can send your used motor oil to a lab to check on your engine health and to see how much life is still left in the oil.

Anyway, yes. The oil for this car is a bit harder to find and I'm still looking for what I want to use. If you just search for 0W-30, you'll find that they don't meet the ACEA C2 rating. Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0w-30 checks all the boxes and comes up fairly often in other forums, but it's expensive and not particularly easy to find. Note that 5W-30 is also acceptable so long as you aren't going to operate the car in an Alaskan winter at 3am, so that might help.

Also note that the manual states we can just use the API latest rating, which at present is "SN". This is easier to find than ACEA C2, possibly because ACEA is European and so many of the ACEA C2 oils aren't sold in the US.


EDIT:

I had a break at work today so I've been looking around. API SN-rated 5W-30 oils are much easier to find. Here are a few, all prices from my local Advance Auto Parts for a 5qt jug.
1) Valvoline Modern Engine 5W-30 Full Synthetic ($50)
2) Castrol GTX Magnatec 5W-30 ($33)
3) Quaker State Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W30 Synthetic ($34)
4) Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 Full Synthetic (sold only in 1qt jugs at Advance Auto, will come out to $50 total)
 

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https://www.lubrizol.com/Lubricant-and-Fuel-Additives/Engine-Oil-Additives/ACEA/Sequences/ACEA-C2-10
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-acea-car-engine-oils-specification-explained.aspx


Anyway, yes. The oil for this car is a bit harder to find and I'm still looking for what I want to use. If you just search for 0W-30, you'll find that they don't meet the ACEA C2 rating. Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0w-30 checks all the boxes and comes up fairly often in other forums, but it's expensive and not particularly easy to find. Note that 5W-30 is also acceptable so long as you aren't going to operate the car in an Alaskan winter at 3am, so that might help.
Or in Minnesota anytime between January and March.

The way I look at it is like this...
If I am just driving it like a street car, predominantly within the speed limit, few high RPM situations, the regular old Mobil-1 0w30 will protect the engine just fine, is available in 5qt jugs at Walmart for less than $30, and has yet to treat me wrong in any of my cars (all anecdotal I know). My 97 Thunderbird would get revved to 6k several times a week, I run my Acura RSX up to 6500 once or twice a month, no issues thus far. Thunderbird has been on 0w30 since I bought it, and the Acura is on 0w20 currently, but I do plan to see how 0w30 affects mileage come spring.

If I'm going to a track, I'm getting a 5 or 10w40 oil that meets as many of the manufacturer's requirements as I can get. It'll be under higher heat, higher stress, and more likely to have issues than on a normal day to day drive, so spending a little more for a "better" oil is logical, and a fairly cheap thing to buy.

If you like Amsoil is a quality oil. I just don't like I have to get it through a dealer network instead of at my local store of choice. That adds to expense, but it is good oil. It's made literally down the street from where I'm currently working. You can buy two or three oil changes worth of it online, and when you get low, restock. Again, plan according to use. If you are just driving it on the street, no need to go with the heavy weight oil. If you live in Northern MN like I do, the 0w30 does a great job at start up wear protection (where most of engine wear occurs), and in the very cold months doesn't have any issues flowing like conventional oil does.
 

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the regular old Mobil-1 0w30 will protect the engine just fine, is available in 5qt jugs at Walmart for less than $30, and has yet to treat me wrong in any of my cars (all anecdotal I know).
This is just me and totally anecdotal, but I had a ton of oil consumption with Mobil-1 in my 2009 Honda Accord. That generation of Accords has known oil consumption problems (around 1qt/1000 miles) but it was getting closer to 1.5qt at one point, at around 130K miles on the odometer. I switched to Castrol's high mileage synthetic on a whim and it improved by a ton - closer to 0.5 qt/1000 mi.

Anyway, that's the only reason I haven't considered Mobil-1. Totally dumb, I know.
 

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Some oils shear to a lower viscosity over time, others might "thicken". Sometimes they will completely fall out of grade and your 5w30 now is more like a 5w20. I send my oil off every change for analysis just to see how it's doing and see what changes I might need to make, at least until I find one that repeatedly looks good.

But generally speaking, the ONLY reason I prefer a 5w30, or even 10w30 over a 0w30 in a warm enough climate is that typically if all other things are equal (base oil used) you will usually have lower noack, less shearing and degradation of the oil due to less viscosity improvers being utilized (what helps the oil go from 0w to 30 as temp increases).

If I were far north I'd probably use a 0w30, at least through the winter.
 

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This is just me and totally anecdotal, but I had a ton of oil consumption with Mobil-1 in my 2009 Honda Accord. That generation of Accords has known oil consumption problems (around 1qt/1000 miles) but it was getting closer to 1.5qt at one point, at around 130K miles on the odometer. I switched to Castrol's high mileage synthetic on a whim and it improved by a ton - closer to 0.5 qt/1000 mi.

Anyway, that's the only reason I haven't considered Mobil-1. Totally dumb, I know.
Not dumb. It's based on your experience and that's not a bad reason. Nothing wrong with Castrol either.

My experience with M1 has been good thus far. I have had zero consumption issues in multiple Ford 4.6 V8's, my 2003 RSX, a 1997 4Runner, a 1997 528i, and my 2018 Edge 2.0EB. None were known for high consumption, I think I use a quart every 3500 miles in my RSX which is well within tolerance, and have noticed little to no use in my other cars (except the 1999 Forester I had, but I hate the 2.5 Subaru engine with a passion, but even that one only used a quart every 2k or so, which still is within spec).

But, the whole point is, if you use any name brand oil that is within the grades listed in the manual, you won't harm the engine. Day to day driving is the most wear and tear on the engine, startup being the most of it of course. If you do go to a race track (something that will be rare at best for me when I pick one of these N's up), then spend $50 on a good, quality oil that can handle the stress. Motul, Pennzoil Platinum, etc. I wouldn't use a 0wX in a race track situation as the engine won't be running cold, and my expectation is it'd be summer time so you can swap the oil out before it gets cold, even if it's a very short oil change interval. I have a hard time seeing Hyundai voiding a warranty if you use a listed oil grade available, and they don't demand Quaker State, just recommend, and Quaker State is the same company as Pennzoil, so using Pennzoil products should be fine as well, they just have very few offerings in the "recommended" 0w30 range.
 

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I hate how the rear view mirror only shows a downward angle of the back. I have to angle my head downwards to see farther out from the back. This is probably just the design of the rear windshield.
 

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- Heated mirrors
-Am I the only one that doesnt have the window seals not clean the condensation off the windows when they lower? I feel that they dont touch the glass at all!
 

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Had a Focus ST come up on my tail last night on the highway and hung out there a bit until they gunned it hard and passed...seemingly trying to get me to take the bait.

Minor dislikes:
As others have mentioned, excessive brake dust is annoying, but the stopping power is great.
Would have liked the option of heated seats and steering.
No official central jacking points.
Recommended 0W-30 options are hard to come by (if that’s what you choose to run)
The driver seat belt hanger flops down too easily (weary of how long it will last)
No available hitch for bike rack
When you’re not on it, it’s harder to achieve good fuel economy.
XM station up/down don’t work from the steering controls


Likes:
Power to be where you want, when you want.
Looks (constrained aggression).
3 pedals... save the manuals.
Multi-mode exhaust (Jekyll & Hyde as you like).
Too much else to think of.
I remember on my older car, you can decide if you want to use the steering wheel controls to either flip through your presets or tune. I don't remember seeing that option on the VN tho.

Also, Save the Manuals for sure lol
 

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Wish my red Veloster had red seat belts. The blue looks a little ridiculous.

I think that's an AMG gleaned gimmick. The AMG models of the Mercedes generally have a red or yellow seatbelt to match the interior stitching color no matter what the outside color of the car is.


Actually I guess it' just a european car thing, I see the 911 GT3 does the same thing. I just saw a silver GT3 on Top Gear with blue stitching and seat belts almost the exact same shade as ours.
 

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I've only had mine for a day so far, so I'm still acclimating to it, but the stand out pros/cons for me are:


Pros..


The adjustable exhaust is great. I can be annoying to everyone else and then tone it down when I get on my street so I'm not bothering everyone I have to live by.


The three door setup is awesome with my kids. Way faster than all our other two door vehicles (Supra, Accord, 4Runner, Wrangler) and my wife doesn't have to wait outside the car till they're in. Four doors would be better with kids, but I like the fact there's less to break and the car is stiffer and safer with less openings.


Related to that, I like the weird seatbelt clip thing on the drivers side seat. On my other cars the seat belt is either unreachable because it's on the pillar and the seat bolsters make it difficult to reach, or the seat belt is attached to the seat and when you fold the seat forward for rear seat ingress the seat belt is an obstacle you have to climb under. I tilt the seat forward to unbuckle my daughter's child seat harness so I don't have to walk around the car to let her out and the ability to get the belt out of my face is nice. Hopefully it holds up long term.



The warranty is great and was the final tipping point in buying this car. The only other car I was looking at that had a warranty that covered track use was the Camaro turbo 1LE and that was only a 5/60 warranty, and I plan to keep the car longer than that.



This is the first car I've had with any sort of infotainment system, so I think that whole thing is pretty awesome. I guess some people take offense to the size of the screen but I don't really see the problem with it. It's right up where you need to see it. It makes using google maps really nice because you can see it super easy in your peripheral vision.


I love the puncture kit. Cool weight saving trick. I don't know if I will love it if I ever pinch flat a tire though, so on second though I will probably buy a mini spare for it (I think I saw a thread about that somewhere here).


I also love the warning tag that was on the wiper stalk that warns the uninitiated about the nature of Serious Brakes and that Serious Brakes will grab at low speed and squeal when cold or scream when very hot. I stuck that tag in the owners manual just to show people for a giggle.



Cons..


I wish the car would start up in whatever drive mode you left it in. If that's an optional setting I haven't found it yet.



I wish there was a toggle to just replace the default N mode with your N custom setting. Aside from a race track I don't think I'll ever use the stiffest suspension setting. It's brutal.


Actually I would like the ability to customize all the default settings or have a second N custom slot or something. Some way to have more than one custom preset. I'd like to set up a custom setting with full sport + options along with normal suspension, and another the same but with the engine just in sport which I think just takes away the unnecessary popping and crackling for when I'm not trying to be a spectacle.


I really wish android car play or whatever would use the bluetooth to connect and not require the USB. I can run spotify over the bluetooth though at least, so I really only need to plug it in for navigation.


The 19" wheels are a bit much. I like the look but I wish they'd have done 18", which would still fit over the brakes just fine. They'd probably perform a little better on the typical rough roads most people drive on (if not perform better period because they'd weigh less) and they'd be more pothole resistant.


There's pretty much no undercoating on the car. I'm not going to drive this in the snow anyway, but I'm going to have to do some sort of anti chip on the areas underneath behind the tires because otherwise the car will rust there after the gravel chips the paint away.
 

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I've only had mine for a day so far, so I'm still acclimating to it, but the stand out pros/cons for me are:

...

Cons..

I wish there was a toggle to just replace the default N mode with your N custom setting. Aside from a race track I don't think I'll ever use the stiffest suspension setting. It's brutal.
In the Setup screen, you can set what you want the 'N' button to be: standard N mode or your custom N mode.

I really wish android car play or whatever would use the bluetooth to connect and not require the USB. I can run spotify over the bluetooth though at least, so I really only need to plug it in for navigation.
Meeeeee too.

The 19" wheels are a bit much. I like the look but I wish they'd have done 18", which would still fit over the brakes just fine. They'd probably perform a little better on the typical rough roads most people drive on (if not perform better period because they'd weigh less) and they'd be more pothole resistant.
Agreed. My first "big" purchase for the VN was 18" wheels with all-season tires. Sure, it softened the steering "snap-back" just a touch, but still very responsive and not as harsh on these [email protected]#ty Atlanta roads. ;)

--JamesT
 

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In the Setup screen, you can set what you want the 'N' button to be: standard N mode or your custom N mode.
Is this for the flag button on the wheel? Mine goes to N first, then to N custom on the 2nd press. I didn't see an option in setup to change this but would prefer my custom to be on the first press of this button.
 
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