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With a piggyback tuner the whp it makes, is dependent upon what map setting is utilized and the octane fuel. Up to 35 whp and 44 ft lbs of torque. A piggy back ECU does more than raise boost pressure.

It's Plug and play, retains all the ECU safety parameters, unlike with a remap or re-flash. They are tunable for bolt on modifications and fuel octane utilized as well. RaceChips runs 7 different maps based primarily on the particular octane fuel utilized.

The ECU doesn't fix problems. The ECU adapts, with in the parameters it was programmed with. Piggy back tuners don't attempt to go beyond those parameter. Static remapping and re-flashing does.

Boost on the Veloster is capped @ 21 psi by the OEM ECU. Any given piggyback (JB4, DTUK, RaceChips, Lap3) will allow an increase to 25-26 psi in boost in the lower rpm ranges from 1800 to 3750 rpm. It doesn't hold static boost across the rpm range, neither does the OEM ECU. Some remove the top end limiter and adjust AF ratios.

At higher rpms 4750 to redline, boost drops off dramatically and is somewhere in the 7-9 psi range. The Veloster N's is not designed to make higher horsepower, as the turbo is a smaller unit and produces max hp and torque at lower rpms. So it's limited in the higher rpm ranges. Designed to reduce turbo lag, when you need it most in daily driving. It will efficiently make max horsepower in the 300-315 whp range. Not much more, no matter what you do with modifications. Even with a custom remap or re-flash, it's still limited to around 315 whp & 300-320 ft lbs torque.

It will take a much larger turbo, manifold, CAI intake, pistons, connecting rods and custom tune to make over this safely. It will also nix the warranty quite quickly in the process.:wink:
 

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Running 93 non ethanol in my car. May just be me but it does seem to run a little better on non ethanol 93 vs ethanol 93. Dealer said I could run 87, which I thought was strange, owned turbo cars before and always ran the highest available at the pump. so I referred to the tried and true owners manual and it said 91.it seems like dealers for this car don’t have much knowledge on this specific model lol. At least from my experience, I knew more about the car than they did haha or so it seemed.
 

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They don't!! I talked to our service reps, nice enough individuals and they knew very little about the background of the car, let alone particulars.
 

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Yes everyone I dealt with was very nice to deal with. But I was astonished at how little anyone knew about the car, not knocking them just was surprised that they weren’t given much info on the N but when the salesman said “that’s what’s nice with these cars there is no gain to running higher octane and it does not hinder performance ” haha. I then went to the car got the manual and showed him what I was sure to be an incorrect statement. I showed him the 91 in the book and he kept saying about the 87 above it.long story short I went to the filling station with him to fill the first tank to ensure that premium was in from the word go. I did not buy the car entirely for fuel mileage anyway and that extra 10 bucks to fill it is not going to put me in the poor house lol
 

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VN62,

I'll be honest. I was an N/A guy till I bought this car. So tuning FI engine is new to me. I understand the concept of more boost more power. Can you clarify this statement, "Boost on the Veloster is capped @ 21 psi by the OEM ECU. Any given piggyback (JB4, DTUK, RaceChips, Lap3) will allow an increase to 25-26 psi in boost in the lower rpm ranges from 1800 to 3750 rpm." If the OEM ECU is capped at 21psi, how does the piggy back exceed that parameter?
Also, are you suggesting that a piggy back will not void the warranty?

Thanks,
 

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This thing is a basic hack that intercepts boost and fuel sensors and makes adjustments according to their "map" in the device. Its a basic principle type of tuning common on vehicles you cant do ECU PROM rewrites with. More boost, more gas, more power but I dont think this has the capability of controlling timing or the other fine elements that an ECU rewrite will do. I'd be cautious on whether turning up the boost and fuel pressure is the kind of thing that the engine can handle these changes in all conditions including weather temperature extremes. YMMV. If you look at the i30n videos on who's installed this, they've also installed a new i/c, intake, and I think exhaust because you're going to produce more heat trapped by back pressure. I'm not sure, but they may have replaced the turbo which is integrated into the manifold.

The JB4 tuner is a little better in presentation but does the same thing- Intercepting two of the control mechanisms, but you're still just using an OBD/CAN interface to log but you must consider this is what the ECU interprets the sensors to read. Putting down 300whp in the 2.0T should be easy and safe-ish for this motor if the tune is conservative from the factory. The biggest limit is probably the open deck design which can cause head gasket scrub which leads to wear then leaks. Its as important to know where the power is applied in the stroke along with EGTs when tuning. I wouldn't necessarily rely on the ECU's interpretation of what happens in the motor for the best picture. An example of scrub is whats happening to the 350bhp motors in the FocusRS. Then again, we haven't seen anyone disassemble a block for analysis. The EJ257 (Subaru) uses a semi-close deck, but their hypereutectic pistons made for low thermal expansion are brittle and ringlands fracture under detonation. We dont know much about the pistons are in this motor and how resilient it will be to mistakes in the fuel management, bad gas, heat and detonation. We dont know what protective measures like the knock sensor will use and retarding engine timing to save it from itself. I'm sure Hyundai has considered a bit of this and being its capable of not grenading on regular pump gas with such a long warranty means there is a lot of play in the maps. There have been some claims that motors also vary in power output by as much as 20whp, which I think is a lot.
 

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VN62,

I'll be honest. I was an N/A guy till I bought this car. So tuning FI engine is new to me. I understand the concept of more boost more power. Can you clarify this statement, "Boost on the Veloster is capped @ 21 psi by the OEM ECU. Any given piggyback (JB4, DTUK, RaceChips, Lap3) will allow an increase to 25-26 psi in boost in the lower rpm ranges from 1800 to 3750 rpm." If the OEM ECU is capped at 21psi, how does the piggy back exceed that parameter?
Also, are you suggesting that a piggy back will not void the warranty?

Thanks,
Yes, the use of a piggyback ECU will will void the warranty. However, there is no way to detect its use by anyone including Hyundai. Once it's removed, the ECU simply runs off the OEM tune parameters.

There is an over boost feature as part of the OEM programming. A piggy back will send signals to the OEM ECU fooling, into believing it's running much cooler. The ECU will allow more boost and appropriate amounts of fuel. The A/F rations in the 2.0T Theta II engines, are way too fat to begin with. So there's plenty of room to make adjustments. The fatter the A/F Ratio, the less hp made. It's simply running too rich from the factory. Timing is controlled by the ECU but the signals altered from the piggyback, will allow an advancement in timing instead of retarding.

Now, until there is a K-TAG tool or KessV2 for this type of ECU, there will be no bench, ODB II diagnostic port tunes or flash tuners available. The tool is not available at this time for the N's OEM ECU application. However, static tuning can be detected by the flash counter in the OEM ECU. If there are more flashes than the Hyundai has installed or permitted, they'll then look deeper into the programming with the Hyundai SAE diagnostic unit. The rest is just formality and your goose is cooked.

Best thing to do is; use a piggyback ECU or leave it alone. Most piggy back modules have at least 5-7 different tunes and are reprogrammable. A piggyback ECU can be quickly removed for servicing and it will revert back to the OEM tune. You can't do this with a, ECU bench tune or remap. Plus remaps and re-flashes remove safety parameters beyond what the ECU parameters permit.

You can with a hand held re-flash module but it will still show additional tunes loaded to the ECU, via the flash counter.
 

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93 fuel only, but boost seems too low

If this car is supposed to have 20 lbs of boost. Why do i only show 16-17 lbs under full throttle on the n performance screen on the display. I have the pp package as well.

Thanks.
 

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Late to the party here..I too was unsure what fuel to use as its conspicuously absent from anywhere on/around fuel cap. Multiple reviews stated runs fine on regular(and pre-purchase that was a plus if not a huge deal), dealer dodged the question, EPA test doesn't specify premium but then sho nuff manual says 91+ for best performance/economy. My issue is why the shadyness? Why do I have to RTFM to discover what fuel I'm supposed to put in it? Why can/will Hyundai pork me if I have a powertrain issue/claim and discover I haven't been following the severe maint schedule despite residing in a geographic area they pre-assign as severe? That type of crap bothers me and hoping for the best as I really do like this little animal but..cmon guys. My plan is to run min 89 top tier or bjs 93 the majority of the time while going with a 5ish k oil interval because I think 3750 is both annoying and absurd for my driving conditions esp w/full synthetic oil. I get this is a performance minded machine but that's a cash grab- 100%.
 

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They probably assume the target audience for this car may give the oil a workout. And since the manual says 5w30 and 10w30 are fine they've really opened themselves up to all kinds of oil being acceptable. Some of these oils may need to be drained by 3750 miles in this application and their service schedule reflects that. Many oils would probably be fine at 2 or 3 times this interval but they have to account for worst case scenarios.

I think the octane requirement was a miscommunication, or a last minute change and cars hit dealers before the info did. Again, the thing will probably not grenade on regular unleaded but they need to be careful what they cover with a 100,000 mile warranty. Some N owner in a hot climate filling up with generic stale 87 octane running a basic conventional oil could be a recipe for disaster.
 

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Turbo creates higher compression and a bigger bang, within the cylinders, hence the need for a slower burning fuel ie., Premium top tier fuel. You can run 87, 89, 91, 93 onward. Your best performance will come from 91+ octane fuel. Just be aware of knock. If it knocks with 87 move to 89 if that's your thing. The price per tank full, is negligible between 87 and 91 octane. You bought a high performance 4 cylinder with a turbo, run the 91+.

Albert Biermann said recently, "you can run 87 to 91+ plus octane in the VN and i30N but the best for the car is 91+ premium fuel." I'm running what's recommend and I know works best.

Far as oil is concerned, just don't run cheap oil. Change it often as 3K miles in any GDI engine. If you run it over 3K miles, you're asking for excessive carbon buildup, on intake valves and turbo impeller seal/shaft. This has already been noted, so it's not unknown.
 

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The sales guy I worked with thought it was regular, too, and tried to give me this spiel about more octane being a waste, etc, but said he'd fill mine up with Premium if I wanted/insisted on it (I did, I'm coming from a Mustang Ecoboost). But then the next guy I worked with who handles delivery, etc, said that yeah, his service techs verified it should be premium and put premium in it for the pdi stuff, and then I watched it get filled the rest of the way with 93, so news is getting out there, at least.
 

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Sales doesn't know crapola about the VN. They are under schooled and completely ignorant about such things.
 

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Sales doesn't know crapola about the VN. They are under schooled and completely ignorant about such things.
I agree. The first time I went to look at the VN and was not allowed to drive it because they don't want, "thrill seekers". the sales guy sat in the passenger seat as I sat behind the wheel. I asked if I could at least check out the display and interior and he agreed. Then the next 5 minutes he sat there going, "Hmm" "Oh that's nice" "I didn't know it did that" as I cycled through all the buttons and paddles changing all the settings. I knew more about the car than he did. I hope it got him interested in it enough that he played around with it and learned.
 

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My dealership did the same **** thing. "Too rare" to test drive. I walked out and looked for other cars. Sales guy messaged me for a month. I ignored him until I finally wanted to know if the car would suit before buying a used Golf R. Something about reliabiltiy of VW worried plus new is nice. I told the sales guy I wasn't walking in without my wife and I driving it. So it came to fruition. They def know very little about their product.
 

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I must be privileged. I got to drive mine around the parking lot and he seemed like he'd have let me out on the street, but the car wasn't street legal yet. But I also showed up with financing ready to go >_>
 

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My dealer let me drive it for an hour and a half, seemed totally indifferent to what I was doing as long as I didn't crash, let me drive my wife home and throw a car seat in the back. There were about 280km of test drive already on the car as well... I ended up doing a dealer trade for another car and received that one with 306km on it and it would have been driven 258km to get it to me.

They definitely insisted and continue to insist it takes 87, and so I filled the thing to full before I brought it in for the first service.
 

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I refuse to put 87 in. I paid for a car with 275hp. Why would I run 87 so it pulls timing and feels like a turd? I beat on mine daily however. I imagine if you drive pretty you wouldn't notice.
 

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I refuse to put 87 in. I paid for a car with 275hp. Why would I run 87 so it pulls timing and feels like a turd? I beat on mine daily however. I imagine if you drive pretty you wouldn't notice.
I hear you, never let the dealer gas up the car, give it to them with a full tank. Takes care of the worry. The only time mind has had 87 in it was before purchase. I flog the thing around every corner.
 
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