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You know what they say about "ASS"umptions?


Any who! The manual is clear that 91 is the minimum fuel requirement. There is a note specifically stating what will happen if you use less than 91 octane.
 
Access to 93 but not to abortions. Too soon?
Dude, take the personal politics elsewhere. It's disruptive and totally unnecessary, just because the individual is from Alabama. We aren't talking liberal politics here. Read the rules of the forum also.
Dude lighten up. Weren't you banned once already?

92 is the top tier here in OR. I like that newer cars are smart enough to adjust quickly for knock but still run premium whenever possible as you should.
 
@natoe87 You settle down and lighten up, you're like a pistol half cocked ready to go off. Keep your personal politics to yourself. Volatile topics like this, don't belong here. What you stated, was just wrong and directed at a specific member because of his state location. It's disruptive and harassment of towards this member. Follow the rules of the forum, as everyone else does and stay on topic. Nuff said! Keep it up, I'll report it or someone else will.

Guys close thread, it is going nowhere now.
It will, if certain members, stay on topic and refrain from interjecting their personal liberal politics into the discussion.

92 is the top tier here in OR. I like that newer cars are smart enough to adjust quickly for knock but still run premium whenever possible as you should.
It's old technology for over several decades. Knock sensors detect an issue send signals and the ECU simply retards the timing. ECU aren't smart and can't think. They are programmed to specific parameters for operation. They only operate with in them and won't adapt beyond.
 
Ok, back on topic. I just got rid of a 2014 Ford Fusion with the 2.0L turbo motor. In it's manual it stated you could use 87 or higher but if you used 87 it gave you 231hp and if you used 93 it gave you 240hp. Be what it may but I'm always going to use 93. I get great gas mileage too. This morning on the way to work in eco mode on back roads I got 33.6 mgp. And yes there were stop signs and lights to stop at. Ya can't beat it. This car is great on gas and is pretty quick too. It's nice to finally have your cake and eat it too. :)

-Mike
 
The only way you can go over 115 C-14+ octane, is to utilize aviation fuels. Not wise considering TEL (Tetra-ethyl-lead) is used to increase octane rating. Automotive engines are no longer engineered to utilize lead content in fuel.
 
Where I'm at (Delaware) you can get 94 at some of the Sunoco pumps, and 100 around the Dover track (and yes, aviation fuel (c16?) if you know where to find it). For one, its not good for the catalytic converter. When untuned for, high octane fuel will eat up the materials and eventually lead to blockages because it will basically disintegrate into fine dust. Its not going to make a power difference in a car thats electronically adjusting timing, which is why you can get away with 87 sometimes and if you're not beating on it. I'd never run below 91 in a turbo car. Ford using regular fuel is a hack because they know their customers are going to be cheap and ignore any advice to run premium in a pickup truck. I'm sure it runs pig rich. Some of that Wawa gas here is low quality. Forget the HP differences because the economy and longevity will make up for the difference. I'm sure its using some kind of wide band detection system to adjust for mistakes. You have to consider that they tune and design a fuel system with a certain level of error and to prevent it from being "region" specific as gas is differently formulated by elevation and supply geography. IIRC, you might only see 85 in high elevations, but since there is less O2 density in the air, you dont need the anti-knock additives to prevent detonation. FWIW, turbos do very well with mitigating power loss since they build air density.

Lower RON/octane fuel burns hotter (and unburnt fuel has a cooling effect to a point) because you're reducing octane so you can increase potential for knock and heat related wear by trying to save money. I also think GDI motors allow them to handle lower octane gas better to a point. This is also related to why a tune to lean out the cylinders on premium gas can yield a bit more power and economy as you also increase boost and optimize fuel ratio - especially if the ECU can handle the range and you're sticking to known good fuel and buying that fuel from one specific geographic location. If say, you had a protuned car in California, you might want to retune that car for safety in Maryland or it might run like crap.


Does anyone know what the cylinder compression (not the ratio) is out of curiosity?

I wonder if Hyundai will come out with factory approved tunes since they're being restrictive about the ECU changes, but their warranty is a big selling point. I would say that reilable 300whp is not out of question for this motor although being FWD and other parts might make that just a numbers game.
 
I guess my question about that is somewhat dumb since the compression is going to be variable and based on a lot of things like fuel in the cylinder and boost pressure at the moment of measurement. I guess this is why they lower the compression to run more boost since that is what creates density. CR X Pressure = cylinder PSI? Shame its not at least a semi-closed deck.

Is there any data on what size the injectors are?

Anyone planning on using the Race Chip piggyback? There isnt a whole lot of data on their site, but it looks like the only thing it can do is increase boost pressure, which is the original turbo car trick. Is the ECU smart enough to compensate for that properly? How much does it even add? I dont see how that device would affect/adjust fuel needed, which would be dangerous since you wont know (or will you) what your injectors are even doing without a different monitoring device. FWIW, they're claiming to get a tick above 300whp on the i30n with other supporting mods. I've never known it to be just that easy without putting something else in danger. Seems like they're leaving it up to the ECU to fix any potential problems.
 
I agree and why I cancelled my order for the Race-chip and will buy a lighter set of wheels and tires. I'd bet you feel more of a difference in reduction in un-sprung mass vs the chip.
 
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