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2022 Hyundai Veloster N
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New to the platform, and looking to move to a wheel for tracking as well. I see a lot of call outs for the 8.5" width, but nothing for 9". What is the limiting factor for 9 wide wheels? (Fenders rolled, just not enough clearance in general, etc?)

Would need to be able to accept a proper track / street suspension setup (so no adding camber just for clearance purposes). I'm partial to the 18x9 configuration myself, but would run 19s if necessary.

While I street the car, it is not a daily as I always work from home. I also have an SUV for getting groceries.
 

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New to the platform, and looking to move to a wheel for tracking as well. I see a lot of call outs for the 8.5" width, but nothing for 9". What is the limiting factor for 9 wide wheels? (Fenders rolled, just not enough clearance in general, etc?)

Would need to be able to accept a proper track / street suspension setup (so no adding camber just for clearance purposes). I'm partial to the 18x9 configuration myself, but would run 19s if necessary.

While I street the car, it is not a daily as I always work from home. I also have an SUV for getting groceries.
Honestly, not sure as to the issues with 9s. Not a lot of people have done it yet as I suspect it does require track levels of camber to clear with no rubbing. Rolling fenders on a square fenders like ours would look a bit weird as well.

I’d imagine with a fwd track suspension setup (usually have seen around 4 degrees in the front and 2 in the rear) that it would clear without much issues.
 

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2019 Veloster N PP / MT / Perf Blue.
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New to the platform, and looking to move to a wheel for tracking as well. I see a lot of call outs for the 8.5" width, but nothing for 9". What is the limiting factor for 9 wide wheels? (Fenders rolled, just not enough clearance in general, etc?)

Would need to be able to accept a proper track / street suspension setup (so no adding camber just for clearance purposes). I'm partial to the 18x9 configuration myself, but would run 19s if necessary.

While I street the car, it is not a daily as I always work from home. I also have an SUV for getting groceries.
9 in wheel you would have to get almost a perfect offset to avoid rubbing and I’m still thinking you would need at least 1.5 of camber.

I had 18x8.5 with +38 offset wheels and -2 of camber front and rear and still rubbed at times in the front. Now I have 19x8.5 +45 and no rubbing. I’m also lowered 30mm in front and rear.

Without lowering it you would be fine mostly for daily but leaning hard into on the track with full suspension travel Id imagine a wheel that is 9 width would rub without the -1.5 camber minimum I suggested.

-JE
 

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9 in wheel you would have to get almost a perfect offset to avoid rubbing and I’m still thinking you would need at least 1.5 of camber.

I had 18x8.5 with +38 offset wheels and -2 of camber front and rear and still rubbed at times in the front. Now I have 19x8.5 +45 and no rubbing. I’m also lowered 30mm in front and rear.

Without lowering it you would be fine mostly for daily but leaning hard into on the track with full suspension travel Id imagine a wheel that is 9 width would rub without the -1.5 camber minimum I suggested.

-JE
I'd be running about 2* at least but need to see what is required for that. I ran -2.3* on the MS3 and so expected to run that. I'll be doing some testing of wheels and such and see what is required. If things look to require excessive camber then I'll just drop back to the 8.5" with +45 offset. Going from a 245 width tire to 255 isn't going to be a big deal really anyways from a performance perspective. I just like that 9" look :)
 

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I'd be running about 2* at least but need to see what is required for that. I ran -2.3* on the MS3 and so expected to run that. I'll be doing some testing of wheels and such and see what is required. If things look to require excessive camber then I'll just drop back to the 8.5" with +45 offset. Going from a 245 width tire to 255 isn't going to be a big deal really anyways from a performance perspective. I just like that 9" look :)
A 9” look and tire 255/265 would look great on this car but I think it would be very hard to make it correctly and be ideal.

I just haven’t ran all the numbers on a 9 in a while but I know when I did all the research previously I was always compromising somewhere whether it be the scrub radius, poke, camber, or just aesthetically being able to find a wheel that was attractive and would work without screwing everything else up.

-JE
 

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I hear that! Will definitely do the measurements and such. Probably be the 8.5". Maybe if there was a coilover option which would give a bit more strut clearance.

Anyways will be a fun adventure :)
 

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I personally don’t see much difference in my +40. I’m running WMI and I get barely any torque steer-but I’m not tracking my car yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
DISCLAIMER : I have never tried to dial in a suspension and wheel position before, so please forgive if some of this is 'duh' factor for you.

Alright folks, I did some google research and there are a VAST number of opinions that contradict each other. So I have a question for those that know what they are talking about / have experience with our babies and 19x8.5 +45.

I have driven a couple days with my new shoes and the driver feedback I now have is a million times better than stock. I dropped 7+ lbs per corner and can tell the difference in turn-in and response. At low speeds the car is very responsive and almost twitch level reaction to any steering wheel input

One thing that has drastically changed towards the worse is stability. I am not sure that is the right way to describe it, regardless, this is what I am talking about... Once I am up to highway speeds the car starts to get a little unstable feeling when not driving in a straight line. Its not a crazy amount, but it is enough to make me have to consider and take into account instead of being able to rely on the car to be the guided missile it was designed to be.

1) Before I was able to have an abrupt lane change and the car would just snap back straight in line when I was done. Now if I have an abrupt lane change the car sways a little and takes a second to settle back to straight after giving me a little attitude. The higher the speed, the more sway and adjustment I need to get it settled. (its not exactly like driving on blown shocks, but similar)

2) Braking at higher speeds. Before I could hammer the brakes doing 90 and the car would grab and stop with no fighting. However, now if I press the brakes with any conviction at highway speeds I get the same washy unstable feeling.


If I had to guess, one of you are just going to tell me to get it aligned.... and you're correct. But given that is how it is reacting now, what is the thought that comes to your mind to wrangle her back in? Camber, Toe, etc.....

Pretty please and thanks for your time.
 

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I’d make sure you have the correct size hub centric rings on the car and then get an alignment. Ha! I don’t have any guess on the brakes mine have never done that. Someone who knows more will chime in!

-JE
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I was under the impression that with self centering lugs and not being a track guy the hub centric rings were not needed.
 

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I was under the impression that with self centering lugs and not being a track guy the hub centric rings were not needed.
If your new wheel bore is 73.1 (I’m guessing) and the Vn hub is 67(guessing again - i don’t remember) you need hub centric rings.

-JE
 

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Hub centric rings are a must if the bore is larger than stock. I would go buy some. You can buy plastic or aluminum. For daily driving plastic is fine, but I would probably spend a few extra bucks and buy the aluminum. Install them and let us know. You should find that they help. Also, they do not cost much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Slapped some rings on, didn't help. Put some camber into the front... Guided missile again!
Just got off the alignment rack this morning, Caster & Toe are at stock, camber front -2.0 back is -1.5. Handles like a dream.
 

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You will be glad to have those rings on over time. Thanks for the update on the camber. This is helpful.
 

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Well folks, I got my new wheels on. Thanks for all the feedback.

19x8.5 +45
Pilot 4 A/S 235/35
View attachment 6697 View attachment 6698 View attachment 6699
Hey! If you wouldn’t mind. I’m trying to get a set of 19 x 8.5 + 40 wheels. Can you tell me if a 245 width tire could fit? I’m looking at getting 245/35 or 245/40. Do you know which would give a flush tire fitment to the wheel? Not a fan of stretch. Thank you. Sorry to bother!
 

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Hey! If you wouldn’t mind. I’m trying to get a set of 19 x 8.5 + 40 wheels. Can you tell me if a 245 width tire could fit? I’m looking at getting 245/35 or 245/40. Do you know which would give a flush tire fitment to the wheel? Not a fan of stretch. Thank you. Sorry to bother!
If lowered, no. If stock height maybe-you might need a hint of camber for no rubbing ever
 
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