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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Everyone,

I have a 2020 N PP and I really like to drive her. I am pretty sure the cause of this problem is a pot hole I hit while driving on the highway one day. I have this vibration that comes in around 75 and is very obvious at 80. It is most obvious at a smooth cruise right at 80 with the throttle just lighting keeping tension to the wheels and I have the wheel in the very center where you don't feel any tension left or right.

so far I have:
Had my wheels checked and balanced
Had other wheels ordered and other tires mounted to those and installed

Its for sure not my wheels. My dealership seriously told me that no one is going to road test at those speeds. No joke lol.

I have done a basic visual inspection of the wheel/suspension with everything off and all looks good visually. No obvious bends or breaks.

Can anyone here lend their thoughts?
 

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Its for sure not my wheels. My dealership seriously told me that no one is going to road test at those speeds. No joke lol.
Sounds like you should take your business to another dealer. I'm not sure what the speed limits are like in your part of the country, but 80mph isn't even the highest legal speed limit here (85 mph is).

As for your vibration issue; does it feel like death wobble where the front wheels are violently shaking left and right, or does it more feel like an up-down movement, like you were hauling down a washboarded road?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like you should take your business to another dealer. I'm not sure what the speed limits are like in your part of the country, but 80mph isn't even the highest legal speed limit here (85 mph is).

As for your vibration issue; does it feel like death wobble where the front wheels are violently shaking left and right, or does it more feel like an up-down movement, like you were hauling down a washboarded road?

I read this a couple days ago and REALLY started paying close attention to it so I could answer with confidence. At times it can feel a bit like both but overall its up and down vibration. When I release the steering wheel it does not shake and I stay straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sounds like you should take your business to another dealer. I'm not sure what the speed limits are like in your part of the country, but 80mph isn't even the highest legal speed limit here (85 mph is).

As for your vibration issue; does it feel like death wobble where the front wheels are violently shaking left and right, or does it more feel like an up-down movement, like you were hauling down a washboarded road?
Also I agree I need to find a dealership thats going to be willing to do this work for me. Ive been a customer at this dealer for like 4 years now, I cant believe they said that to me. Like your company builds and sells race cars now, you need a way to service them lol.
 

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There's another thread here that will aid you in the issue;
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update on this....

In my personal opinion I have ruled out the pot hole entirely... The tire that stuck the pot hole and the one I was worried about was the front passenger but after MANY trips to a different dealership and still no answers I got frustrated and bought jack stands.

I put the car up on all 4 stands, put the car in gear and let the tires rotate.
The passenger side is perfectly okay, the driver side (however) is not okay and hops (kind of in all directions) around while spinning on its axis.
Its not very noticeable but if you give it the slightest amount of gas it jumps all over the place, almost like the wheel bearing is bad...

I go online and buy a replacement bearing AND axle (just to be really sure, and because I got a good deal) and install them in my driveway (very proud of myself, made zero mistakes and everything went nice and smooth) and for about 15 minutes everything felt great but then it comes back.

It feels like an unbalanced wheel, bad alignment, or bad wheel bearing maybe but I have had both done (balancing multiple times including sonar and road-force balance) and have also replaced the Pirelli stock tires with Michelin PSAS 4's. Both driver and passenger wheel bearings have been done as well as the passenger axle...

I have been following the idea that its a rotational problem but at this point I am at a complete loss.

I'm just tossing this update out for anyone. Praying that someone will come to my aid one day as I have gone to THREE Hyundai dealerships now and most recently was told they don't even want to get involved with the car.

It comes and goes at random times, its the weirdest thing I have ever experienced.

On Friday I am meeting up with a buddy of mine who is a mechanic and owns a VN Non-PP. He told me he experiences the same thing sometimes and that we can drive each others cars and compare.

Will update when I have more to report.
 

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Just a thought.... Maybe a bad shock assembly and / or damper? Just a guess..... Hope it all works out.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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Have the wheel and tire combinations "road force balanced." Dealerships are not equipped to do such balancing. Doing so, will quickly identify a wheel/s that are out of round or warped in any way. If they can't bring it back into specification, it will have to be replaced. 90% of the time this is the problem.

It's solved several issues with owners here and on the other forum.

Ar ou on the OEM wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just a thought.... Maybe a bad shock assembly and / or damper? Just a guess..... Hope it all works out.

Best regards,

-Mike
This is where my mind has started going to. I was thinking it was related to me launching the car as I have done that about 10-15 times within 18K miles. Shes been DRIVEN...
Do you know how I could test for such a thing??

Thank you for the insight
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Have the wheel and tire combinations "road force balanced." Dealerships are not equipped to do such balancing. Doing so, will quickly identify a wheel/s that are out of round or warped in any way. If they can't bring it back into specification, it will have to be replaced. 90% of the time this is the problem.

It's solved several issues with owners here and on the other forum.

Ar ou on the OEM wheels?
I have completely ruled out wheels tires...

Started on all OEM
Switched to aftermarket wheels / OEM tires
Switched to aftermarket wheels / aftermarket tires
Switched back to aftermarket wheels / OEM tires
Got OEM Wheels Powder Coated and went back to OEM wheels on Michelin PSAS 4's - Had this configuration sonar balanced (guaranteed good to 160MPH) at a performance shop (Prolific Performance).

I had the same symptoms with every configuration.
 

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2021 Veloster N DCT
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Hey Everyone,

I have a 2020 N PP and I really like to drive her. I am pretty sure the cause of this problem is a pot hole I hit while driving on the highway one day. I have this vibration that comes in around 75 and is very obvious at 80. It is most obvious at a smooth cruise right at 80 with the throttle just lighting keeping tension to the wheels and I have the wheel in the very center where you don't feel any tension left or right.

so far I have:
Had my wheels checked and balanced
Had other wheels ordered and other tires mounted to those and installed

Its for sure not my wheels. My dealership seriously told me that no one is going to road test at those speeds. No joke lol.

I have done a basic visual inspection of the wheel/suspension with everything off and all looks good visually. No obvious bends or breaks.

Can anyone here lend their thoughts?
It's your fucked up camber 100% sure.
 

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I have completely ruled out wheels tires...

Started on all OEM
Switched to aftermarket wheels / OEM tires
Switched to aftermarket wheels / aftermarket tires
Switched back to aftermarket wheels / OEM tires
Got OEM Wheels Powder Coated and went back to OEM wheels on Michelin PSAS 4's - Had this configuration sonar balanced (guaranteed good to 160MPH) at a performance shop (Prolific Performance).

I had the same symptoms with every configuration.
Road Force Balancing is designed to apply 1,200-1,400 pound pressure, simulating the vehicle’s weight on the tire as it rolls down the road.

Along with several sensors, the computer determines variations of radial runout, tire stiffness, and anything in the tire’s assemblage (like inconsistencies in the belt package) that’s preventing the tires from rolling smoothly when weighted by the car.

By measuring both tires and wheel, the road force balancer tells the mechanic where to move the tire around on the wheel until the tire’s effective high spot (when rolling on the car) matches the wheel’s low spot (more sophisticated technique of match-mounting.)

Sonar Balancing doesn't.

Benefits of Road Force Balancing Tires;

1. Solves wheel vibration caused by rim and tire runout & wheel-mounting error
2. Serves as quick troubleshooting/solution so you don’t need to wait in the shop for many hours
3. Identifies vehicle drift or pull problems (it’s when your car veers if you take your hands off the wheel briefly while driving in a straight line)
4. It results in improvement in handling and driving quality

Sonar Balancing, does nothing to detect if a wheel is out of round or for tire runout but suit yourself. I'll bet dimes to donuts this is the issue.

It's not the strut, no matter how hard you've run the car. You don't have near enough mileage on the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I'm almost embarrassed to post this but Id be rude not to sum this up.

I'm almost positive my buddy and I found the problem last night. I have a dent on the inside of one of my wheels that's hard to see if you aren't watching it spin from the inside. I took the affected wheel and put it on the rear passenger tire and its effect its almost gone for me. I will be putting on a 2 and 2 combination for a temp setup using my white aftermarket wheels in the rear to get this bad wheel off the car.

I will let everyone know how this does for me. Thank you for all the help and input.
I do not understand how this was not noticed by 2 dealerships and a performance shop. Blows my mind
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Road Force Balancing is designed to apply 1,200-1,400 pound pressure, simulating the vehicle’s weight on the tire as it rolls down the road.

Along with several sensors, the computer determines variations of radial runout, tire stiffness, and anything in the tire’s assemblage (like inconsistencies in the belt package) that’s preventing the tires from rolling smoothly when weighted by the car.

By measuring both tires and wheel, the road force balancer tells the mechanic where to move the tire around on the wheel until the tire’s effective high spot (when rolling on the car) matches the wheel’s low spot (more sophisticated technique of match-mounting.)

Sonar Balancing doesn't.

Benefits of Road Force Balancing Tires;

1. Solves wheel vibration caused by rim and tire runout & wheel-mounting error
2. Serves as quick troubleshooting/solution so you don’t need to wait in the shop for many hours
3. Identifies vehicle drift or pull problems (it’s when your car veers if you take your hands off the wheel briefly while driving in a straight line)
4. It results in improvement in handling and driving quality

Sonar Balancing, does nothing to detect if a wheel is out of round or for tire runout but suit yourself. I'll bet dimes to donuts this is the issue.

It's not the strut, no matter how hard you've run the car. You don't have near enough mileage on the suspension.

I know about these. I have used a road force balancer before (spent some time as a VW lube tech). If switching out the bad wheel doesn't fix this then Ill seek somewhere to road force balance them.
 

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2019 Chalk White Perf Pack - Master of breaking stuff.
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I'm almost embarrassed to post this but Id be rude not to sum this up.

I'm almost positive my buddy and I found the problem last night. I have a dent on the inside of one of my wheels that's hard to see if you aren't watching it spin from the inside. I took the affected wheel and put it on the rear passenger tire and its effect its almost gone for me. I will be putting on a 2 and 2 combination for a temp setup using my white aftermarket wheels in the rear to get this bad wheel off the car.

I will let everyone know how this does for me.
I do not understand how this was not noticed by 2 dealerships and a performance shop. Blows my mind
We're all humble folk here, just glad you finally found out what the deal was! Here's to a quick resolution for you.
 

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I'm almost embarrassed to post this but Id be rude not to sum this up.

I'm almost positive my buddy and I found the problem last night. I have a dent on the inside of one of my wheels that's hard to see if you aren't watching it spin from the inside. I took the affected wheel and put it on the rear passenger tire and its effect its almost gone for me. I will be putting on a 2 and 2 combination for a temp setup using my white aftermarket wheels in the rear to get this bad wheel off the car.

I will let everyone know how this does for me. Thank you for all the help and input.
I do not understand how this was not noticed by 2 dealerships and a performance shop. Blows my mind
Dealerships aren't there to diagnosis what they deem trivial or small issues. They don't have the ability to take the time or have the expertise either. The dent will be enough to put wheel out of tru round.

Wheels are funny things. I've seen new wheels out of round and cause similar issues. In fact one of the members here recently found two new rims to be out of round. He who had a pulling problem, t wasn't till he had the wheels road force balanced that he found the issue.

Sonar balancing is fine as long as the wheels are straight and true. When they aren't, nothing will help but to either repair the wheel within circular true or replace it. Same with tires, that the assembly was bad. With a belt being improperly molded in place, it can cause a similar issue.

Glad you found the issue.:)(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Oh boys and girls do I have a good one for you...

So another update.... I go to a local tire shop two days ago and I get a call saying my car is ready and the wheels are swapped (took the dented wheel off and put two good wheels on)

I go pick up and my car is worse than before.

Guy told me there was what looked like a sensor glued and taped to the inside of the tire.... Now I was aware I had a broken sensor at one point but the shop that took care of it for me said they would glue it to the wheel near the air stem. Not do what you see in the images below... That's not this guys fault though, he didn't do this.

However, if you were a tire technician and you opened a tire and saw this, why would you then put that tire back on another wheel without calling the customer? He told me all of this after the car was done and ready to pick up.

So I ask
Well did you remove it? - No
Well can you remove it? - No, I don't want to do that.
Okay well can you take the tire off the wheel so I can remove it? - No
Well it sounds like you're telling me I am going to have to pay for something I am still going to have a problem with in the end?

At this point he completely does a 180 and tells me I don't have to pay for anything and to come get the car now. I'm paranoid as **** so I JET there IMMEDIATELY (I love this car too much lol) and try to ask this guy to help me out and that I WANT to pay for the job and pay extra for the extra help. He refuses and shuffles me out ASAP.

This combined with my car being worse off than before made me not only really sad but also really scared. Being that you all already know everything I have gone through with this, you'll believe me when I say I was at my wits end. I honestly didn't know where to turn or what to do.

I forgot how I came about this idea but I remembered Costco about 20 min away has a tire center. So I call and literally just tell them I need help and I am desperate. This dude Ryan was the best he told me to come over and he will help me out. He broke the two tires down for me to inspect and I found what you see here.

The tape and sensor are from the one shop but I'm not sure who did damage to the inner wall of my tire but Costco basically said its not good because bands are showing. I ordered two new PSAS 4's from them and I am working on getting my stock wheel repaired as I put about $500 in to powder coating them already and really like them lol.

So anyway, I learned my lesson that its best to just pay the little bit of extra money and buy your tires from places like Town Fair Tire or Costco who offer full service on tires and wheels purchased through them. I doubt I will be able to get either shop to fess up to ruining the tire so I'm out another ~$500 for the two tires.

By the way the Costco I went to had an all-new shop. 3 bays and 2 sets of mount and balance machines. Plastic-tipped mounting machines and high speed balancers. Luckily I had two new Pirellis at home so I had those thrown on for now and they properly balanced all my wheels for me and FINALLY. MY. CAR. DRIVES. LIKE. NEW. AGAIN!!!!

It's been a long and painful journey but it's finally coming to an end and let me tell you it felt so good to start looking at and order performance parts today...

I went with Turbotech Upper and Lower motor mounts. (both white with red bushings =D)
Going with AFE Takeda full box intake with the turbo inlet
Forge intercooler with forge coolant hoses (red) - Cant find it in stock =(
Forge dual catch can and coolant expansion tank - Cant find in stock =(
Velossatech big mouth(duhhh lol) (Red body with White lips)

M45XL plugs and Sxth spare ECU tune (Stage 1 High Torque) once I have all of this compiled..
Probably scoop the upgraded fuel pump after that.
5845
5846
5847
 
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