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I just asked a question. I was looking for numbers behind your claim of lower temps. Is that IAT, oil temps or water temps?

As for the company providing numbers, it's not unbiased info. I don't take manufacturer numbers seriously.
 

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Discussion Starter #102 (Edited)
The OEM intake is a cold air intake. It takes air from the same area as the velossa Snorkel.
No it not a CAI by definition. Yes, I'm data logging constantly. All three and more as well. Everything is taken directly from the ECU real time.
 

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The OEM intake is a cold air intake. It takes air from the same area as the velossa Snorkle.

It doesn't though. The stock inlet pulls air from the void between the bumper and the radiator ducting. Not sure where that void gets most of it's air from but it's not force fed into it by any of the bumper openings as far as I can tell. It might be cold air pulled from all the various openings around the bumper, but that void is also open to the engine bay in several places, so some warm air could be mixed in. The big mouth scoop is directly fed from the grille opening, no wondering where the air is coming from.



I didn't think to log the data before I installed mine. The wastegate data will show you there is a difference, but there's no way to convert that into HP numbers or anything like that so it's still not much for skeptics. Probably the best testing would be 50-100 times because people can see a difference there and there's no launch involved to skew the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Reduction in IAT's, will let you know if it's doing the job. Horsepower is a by product of increased CFM (Ram Air). The faster the air velocity thru the metered intake, the more air compression pulse. It's like hyperventilating for you or I.
 

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Here's my install, just took my time with the dremel.

To the guy saying that the upper radiator ducting doesn't affect anything.. it pretty much acts as a Velossa Tech Big Mouth for the radiator. We're doing this mod to optimize airflow to the airbox.. why not do it right and keep the optimal airflow to the cooling system intact as well.

PS don't reply bc reading your responses give me a headache.
 

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Here's my install, just took my time with the dremel.

To the guy saying that the upper radiator ducting doesn't affect anything.. it pretty much acts as a Velossa Tech Big Mouth for the radiator. We're doing this mod to optimize airflow to the airbox.. why not do it right and keep the optimal airflow to the cooling system intact as well.

PS don't reply bc reading your responses give me a headache.
Nice job man, the install looks really clean. Did you take the shroud off the car to cut it or did you leave it on?
 

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Here's my install, just took my time with the dremel.

To the guy saying that the upper radiator ducting doesn't affect anything.. it pretty much acts as a Velossa Tech Big Mouth for the radiator. We're doing this mod to optimize airflow to the airbox.. why not do it right and keep the optimal airflow to the cooling system intact as well.

PS don't reply bc reading your responses give me a headache.
Wow, that's pretty much dam near perfect! Nice job! :smile_big:

Br,

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #112
It just depends where you buy it. From an online parts house is always the best and not so much from your dealership parts department.:grin:
 

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Do you think it’s worth it getting the snorkel with a stock intake and stock box?
IMO yes. It’s pretty much the same result with or without a aftermarket intake. If you don’t have a sealed box aftermarket intake it should help even more to push out some of that hot air. Again IMO
 

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Here's my install, just took my time with the dremel.

To the guy saying that the upper radiator ducting doesn't affect anything.. it pretty much acts as a Velossa Tech Big Mouth for the radiator. We're doing this mod to optimize airflow to the airbox.. why not do it right and keep the optimal airflow to the cooling system intact as well.

PS don't reply bc reading your responses give me a headache.
I see a lot of you talking about the front shroud and the necessity for proper cooling.
My first experience with radiator shrouds and the need of them was with the first car I ever bought myself, a 1974 Trans Am with a 455 that was moderately modified (dual quad intake, dual 4 bbl carbs, hooker fenderwell headers going to 4" side pipes (that had 2.5" mufflers integrated in creating a pressure point, etc.

When I bought the car, it kept running hot and I had no idea (being an 18 year old who had only done brake jobs and one water pump to the point of owning this car) that it needed a fan shroud. The front of the radiator was fully exposed, as was the rear. The engine driven fan had nothing to direct the air into the fan to pull the air through the radiator, so at low vehicle speeds it'd run hot. I tracked down a fan shroud from a junkyard, and it solved my heat issue at low speed.

The front side (outside) of the fan shroud does nothing for directing the air. It's getting all it's air through the front grill and the under car ducting. Many 90's cars had nearly useless "grill" areas and got their radiator air from underneath, my 97 Thunderbird being one of these. Anyhoo, removing the front shroud will not affect radiator effectiveness nor fan effectiveness in these (or any) cars as the front end of the radiator can get as much air as it can handle. The fan is only there for low speed to help pull the air through the radiator to cool the water.

The factory routing for the air intake does direct the air through the intake/airbox, but not as effectively as the big mouth. The big mouth has a more optimal placement to get a more direct flow of air into the airbox. The reduced IAT's is because of increased volume of outside air.
 

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I see a lot of you talking about the front shroud and the necessity for proper cooling.
My first experience with radiator shrouds and the need of them was with the first car I ever bought myself, a 1974 Trans Am with a 455 that was moderately modified (dual quad intake, dual 4 bbl carbs, hooker fenderwell headers going to 4" side pipes (that had 2.5" mufflers integrated in creating a pressure point, etc.

When I bought the car, it kept running hot and I had no idea (being an 18 year old who had only done brake jobs and one water pump to the point of owning this car) that it needed a fan shroud. The front of the radiator was fully exposed, as was the rear. The engine driven fan had nothing to direct the air into the fan to pull the air through the radiator, so at low vehicle speeds it'd run hot. I tracked down a fan shroud from a junkyard, and it solved my heat issue at low speed.

The front side (outside) of the fan shroud does nothing for directing the air. It's getting all it's air through the front grill and the under car ducting. Many 90's cars had nearly useless "grill" areas and got their radiator air from underneath, my 97 Thunderbird being one of these. Anyhoo, removing the front shroud will not affect radiator effectiveness nor fan effectiveness in these (or any) cars as the front end of the radiator can get as much air as it can handle. The fan is only there for low speed to help pull the air through the radiator to cool the water.

The factory routing for the air intake does direct the air through the intake/airbox, but not as effectively as the big mouth. The big mouth has a more optimal placement to get a more direct flow of air into the airbox. The reduced IAT's is because of increased volume of outside air.
unless I see a real world test showing the upper shroud directing just that little bit more of air to the radiator. I don’t think it matters. He is right, if it gets hot, your fan comes on. Other then that when your driving your still getting all the air into the radiator because the grill on this car is massive. I would think especially with a aftermarket vented hood that extra air can flow over the engine and take more hot air out of the hood.

also to the guy saying please don’t respond to this I don’t want to hear your responses. Your in the wrong place guy. That’s what forums are for. Bouncing ideas and theories off each other. We don’t have to agree.
 
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