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I am the same way, I literally have a pump sprayer filled with waterless carwash and extra microfiber towels in my trunk EVERYDAY, every time it stops raining I do a maintenance wash in my work parking lot.
Which pump sprayer do you use? I like doing this exact thing. I'm a detailing nerd though so I'm curing which sprayer you are using. I used to just keep a regualr spray bottle but I like the pump ones much better. I have looked at the IK Foamers but I don't need it to foam.

Also, I know you are in Canada, I'm not sure if AMMO ships to you guys, but his Frothe product is literally amazing. It is a foaming product but man... it's like shaving cream and does such an amazing job as a waterless wash! Granted I still use ONR :shrug:

I could go for days with detailing :smile:
 

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Which pump sprayer do you use? I like doing this exact thing. I'm a detailing nerd though so I'm curing which sprayer you are using. I used to just keep a regualr spray bottle but I like the pump ones much better. I have looked at the IK Foamers but I don't need it to foam.

Also, I know you are in Canada, I'm not sure if AMMO ships to you guys, but his Frothe product is literally amazing. It is a foaming product but man... it's like shaving cream and does such an amazing job as a waterless wash! Granted I still use ONR :shrug:

I could go for days with detailing :smile:
I have had the most success with using the "Chemical Guys power atomizer and pump sprayer" with the Chemical guys "EcoSmart Wash and Wax". I used ONR almost exclusively on my last car but switched when I got the EcoSmart on sale and honestly... just really like the smell of it.

I would not say that it's "amazing" It's enough to do maintenance washes, even in the winter. I wash the car daily when it rains, and once a week with a full hose/hand wash. So for the level of maintenance I need it's very good, and gets dirt off and the car shiny. The wax inside is also more than enough to repel the rain. BUT I have used it with my friends car who never washes it (he thought it would save him time since he sees me do it so quickly) and it was not up to the task of a full detailing.

When I visited Massachusetts I also detailed my brothers Civic with him, and he uses AMMO products. So I got a chance to compare. The reason I don't use Ammo (it does ship to Canada) is simply that it's a two stage wash, at least the way I did it with my brother (wash and then use "hydrate" or wax then dry) Where as the Ecosmart is 1 step (wash, push off with towel, then dry). I felt I got a similar effect at the end of the process with less effort (although you do have to 'buff' more with the CG product because of how much wax is in it)
 

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Hmmm, I have used EcoSmart before and it does do a decent job, but I'm not a fan of how much wax there is. I like to lay down my sealant and wax of choice then just use ONR to clean the surface when it gets a little dusty or dirty. With ONR being PH neutral and not having any sort of wax/sealant additives it just encapsulates the dirt and debris and removes it from the surface. I wish I could wash my car much more often but I live in a condo complex and don't have access to a hose spigot... I use waterless as much as I can. Someday I'll have a nice garage where I can spend all day/night making my car look its best.

Now back to the original programming: Velossa Tech Snorkel
 

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Well, we all have something in common. I am the same way. I use Chemical Guys products and Girot's Garage quick detailer in between. Since I bought it in April, it still looks like it came out of the showroom. Nothing wrong with loving the car you drive.

Br,

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Well my VT Snorkel will be on shortly.

I'll engage in some;

1. High elevation (11K+ altitude) mountain roads, under high acceleration loads going up or down, under prolonged driving conditions. This will duplicate and most certainly suffice for any track use. it will be far beyond it as well, as I'll be utilizing nothing but H/T to WOT most of the way up as well as down. 45 minutes to mountains, via highway or rural lower mountain roads, the 1.5 hours up to the summits and back down.

2. Stop and Go highway and city traffic, with temps over 90+ degrees.

3. Stop light to stop light, hard runs @ full throttle.

4. Normal every day city and rural driving.

5. 1/4 mile drag racing with back to back runs.

6. High speed highway driving straight line, prolonged speed of over 85+ mph. Normal speed and driving on our highways. I can run over 100+ and get passed.

Temps will be monitored and datalogged, for all conditions and compared with and without the panel. I've already got most of the datalogged info, with the upper panel on.

Quick summary;

Under hood, engine temps, and oil temps, will be logged and test with the panel on and off under similar conditions. I've also got some pre-recorded data from earlier this summer, with hotter temp conditions over 95+ degrees, running up the and down the mountains.

Installing the VT Snorkel, will not have any effect on engine or oil temps. The mountain trips will consist of hard accelerator loads from 6000 to over 11K+ elevations, which will be over 1.5 hours in duration to reach the summits then another 1.5 down. They're really close to where I live, so it's quite easy to duplicate the conditions.

I'll probably take the readings over a 7 day period and I really don't expect any changes either.

Notes to those interested;

Since your not changing the aerodynamics of the front end and grill area, nothing will change. The condenser/radiator are suspended, in a chassis/radiator yoke. The panel which is attached to the bumper, sets flat and is attached to the chassis /radiator yoke via clips and the hood set down, just over it. There is no air gap between the; top of the condenser/radiator, radiator/ chassis yoke and the bumper panel,which is attached directly to and sets on top of the chassis/radiator yoke.

The upper panel, which is to be removed for installation,of the VT Snorkel, fits flush to the underside of the bumper panel and slightly lower than the radiator chassis yoke. Otherwise, there is no place for the air to passover or around but thru the condenser/radiator, radiator shroud, to the engine. It only has one direct route.

The front end, grill and bumper panel, make up the airflow dynamics for the VN and direct flow path, from outside to the condenser/radiator and radiator shroud. There is no air resistance or place for air to go except on its path of least resistance, thru the condenser/radiator.

Keep in mind our air density @6000 ft and upwards, as well. Higher elevations, lower air density, combined with higher throttle load applications, @ 90+ degrees, will result in higher engine operating temp. Far higher than at lower elevations and nearer to sea level, with similar sustained throttle applications. Mountain high elevation driving, with high throttle loading, is the most stressful test of cooling system capability.:wink:

I'm not going to cut the upper panel, ruining a perfectly good OEM unit, that cost over $200 shipped. I don't need to be convinced, it's more window dressing, then purposeful.

Data to come.
 

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Great info. Thanks Red. Look forward to your results!!! :)

Ok, here is how my install went.... This is a very straight forward install. 1 10mm bolt and 3 tabs in each wheel well. 10 tabs on the bottom of the front fascia. 4 or 5 10mm bolts on top. Pull, and the bumper is off. So much friggin' easier than a Ford Fusion!!!!

The 1st pic are the bags of bolts and tabs for each the bottom, upper, and sides of the front fascia. I try to be very thorough so I don't miss anything. I took the sides off first, then the bottom, then the upper.
The 2nd pic is a pic of the intake close -up on the car. To put the intake on you need to remove 2 10mm bolts on the factory air inlet (do not re-use the factory air inlet) and re-use them to install the VT Intake. I also used a little blue locktite on the threads so they do not back out since its all plastic.
The 3rd pic is before the shroud re-install.
The 4th pic is a taylor's chalk line so guide any of my cutting.
The 5th pic is a side chalk line to further guide my cutting.
The 6th pic is the final cut to the shroud after re-install. I used a light grinding bit and some sandpaper to make any edges smooth. No need for edge guard at least for my install.
The 7th pic is what it looks like in front of the car after all the cutting is done.
The 8th pic is with the bumper back on.

It took me about 2 hours doing it by myself. The longest part was making adjustments to the top shroud. It took a few tries to get it acceptable to me. If anyone needs any help, just let me know. This is a great mod and it really improves the air flow, even on a stock air box. I am not getting an aftermarket intake now since this fits the bill. High flow PiperCross air filter and VT Big Mouth Intake is all this car really needs. Works just fine and saves a bunch of money that can be used elsewhere on the car! :)

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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Good info Red and Ghost! Really looking forward to see Red's data!

Great job on the install Ghost, looks really clean! You didn'y cut anywhere near as much as some of the others I've seen. I bet if you really wanted to be OCD about it, you could Plastic Weld some if those pieces back in with some rubber stripping on the edges and make a pretty close to OEM seal again. That being said, I would be shocked if the amount that you cut out makes any sort of tangible difference.

Let us know if you notice any temp changes!
 

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Thank you for the compliments. :) I wish I trimmed the driver side of the shroud a little better with not as much space, but once the chalk line disappeared I just went by eye. Also, there is an inner corner that protrudes towards the VT intake when it's on so additional cutting was required. I figured I wanted to keep the strength and integrity of the bumper so I cut mine. I mean no one will ever see it. Don't plan on ever getting rid of the car. If you get one you will see what I mean. I tried to do it as clean as humanly possible. No visible difference on the temperature gauge as of yet. I bet after all is said an done if I keep my foot out of it I get even better gas mileage once the ecm re-learns everything. This was a very FUN install. I totally enjoyed myself!!! Next season is a larger inter-cooler and a catch can. Maybe not in that order....

Br,

-Mike
 

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Nice install, thanks for the Pics.
I wish there was no cutting involved though, it makes me nervous.
Do you have any before and after IAT measurements?
 

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Curves,

Don't sweat the cutting. It's pretty easy if you use a Dremel. Just make sure you get the re-inforced cutting wheels, the plain ones are too thin and will break very easily. If you need any advice please just ask. Use my pics as a template to where to cut if you decide to cut it. You asked about temps.... All I can say is it takes a lot longer for the motor to heat soak so I am sure the IAT temps are lower but I have no data to prove it. You certainly can feel it.... Also, my oil temp is usually 205 degrees at all times when warm. On the graph today it never went past 200 degrees. And it was about 85 out today.... I'd say this mod works and the motor likes it a lot!!!

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Good info Red and Ghost! Really looking forward to see Red's data!

Great job on the install Ghost, looks really clean! You didn'y cut anywhere near as much as some of the others I've seen. I bet if you really wanted to be OCD about it, you could Plastic Weld some if those pieces back in with some rubber stripping on the edges and make a pretty close to OEM seal again. That being said, I would be shocked if the amount that you cut out makes any sort of tangible difference.

Let us know if you notice any temp changes!
I won't!:smile:
 

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holy crap! 159 for this small piece?!!

Honestly it doesn't seem to unreasonable if the part produced a measurable performance gain, yet to be seen. However! 160 bucks buys almost half a day of track time. Much better spent if you are going to pay to actually play.
 
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There is a 10% off code in this thread. It's better than nothing. I used it to get mine. It seems to work. The car seems to breath a lot better.

Br,

-Mike
 
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Here is some data sheets from the focus st forum regarding the Velossa Tech Intake.

https://www.focusst.org/threads/velossa-tech-big-mouth-ram-intake-snorkel-data-collection.46558/

So, with this info it states that an open element filter will not benefit from this too much. To increase static pressure the box needs to be enclosed like the factory box is. So things like the Forge intake may not benefit from this. Makes me want to wait for an aftermarket intake with a closed in box now. So I guess the Forge intake tube and the Pipercross intake is on hold for now. Great read by the way.

Br,

-Mike
 

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Curves,

Don't sweat the cutting. It's pretty easy if you use a Dremel. Just make sure you get the re-inforced cutting wheels, the plain ones are too thin and will break very easily. If you need any advice please just ask. Use my pics as a template to where to cut if you decide to cut it. You asked about temps.... All I can say is it takes a lot longer for the motor to heat soak so I am sure the IAT temps are lower but I have no data to prove it. You certainly can feel it.... Also, my oil temp is usually 205 degrees at all times when warm. On the graph today it never went past 200 degrees. And it was about 85 out today.... I'd say this mod works and the motor likes it a lot!!!

Best regards,

-Mike
Out of curiosity before I attempt any cutting. When you say reinforced cutting wheels, the ones for metal will work just fine right?
 

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The ones for metal should work if being used on a Dremel tool. Good luck, Bud.

Br,

-Mike
 

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The ones for metal should work if being used on a Dremel tool. Good luck, Bud.

Br,

-Mike
Well, my Dremel immediately broke... and not in the expected way, the shaft lock is stuck and won't unlock hahaha. Wasn't even able to get it spinning. Teaches me to store it in a box without touching it for a year I guess. I'm going to attempt it with an oscillating saw on the weekend, **** the Dremel.
 

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Should be alright too. Just make sure you have some sandpaper to smooth out the edges. And good luck. Let us know how it all goes.

Br,

-Mike
 
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