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Discussion Starter #1
Well. these went in today and the hardest part was jacking the car up and putting it on jack stands. I'll try and do my best to go through the steps. You will need the following tools:
Blue locktite
Breaker bar
6 inch extension
19mm tall socket & 6" to 7" 19mm socket
14MM socket or closed end box wrench
Torque wrench
jack stands

In the first pic you have to access the nut through the front a-arm hole. You absolutely need the breaker bar here. The nuts ARE on there. Here you use a collar marked F and has the smaller hole in it. (There is another marked F in the package that has a much bigger hole in it. This one goes on the front bolt on the rear subframe.) I put the collar on and then tightened the nut till the collar sat flush to the subframe. This is to seat the collar in the hole since it's hard to get it in there by just pushing it in. I then backed off the collar a little to where it was very loose. Then I moved to the rear subframe bolt on the front subframe.

In the second pic, this is the rear bolt on the front subframe. You can only access this bolt by taking off the bracket seen in the 3rd pic. This is where the 14mm wrench/socket comes in to play. You have 3 nuts to remove and 2 bolts. (Check the location of the jack stand since one of the bracket bolts is very close to where the jack stand goes.) Once you remove the bracket you can get to the 2nd subframe bolt. The bolt that needs to be removed has a bolt protrusion on it. Remove this bolt, slide a collar that says R over the bolt and finger tighten it back in. The procedure is the exact same for the other side. Once on the last bolt put some blue locktite on the bolt threads and torque it to 130 ft lbs. Now go back and extract each bolt or nut and put some blue locktite on it before torquing them all down to 130 ft lbs. Now put on the bracket and just tighten the bolts and nuts pretty good. These do not need to be torqued.

Now on to the rear subframe... In this 4th pic is the rear subframe front bolt. This one is pretty easy to come out, but I still needed a breaker bar to break it free. I used it to break them all free then switched to a regular socket wrench to speed up the process. With this bolt you will use the collar marked R and and is 16mm around. It has the thicker wall on it. Extract this bolt and slide on the collar. Tighten but do not torque down yet. Go to the other front bolt on the rear subframe and do the same. This is just to center the front part of the subframe. Now extract the first front bolt and put some blue locktite on the threads and torque down to 130 ft lbs. Do the same for the other front bolt on the other side of the rear subframe. Now on to the rear subframe nuts.

In this 5th and final pic you need at least a 6 inch long 19mm socket to get it off. The chassis bolt extends at least 5 to 6 inches and a regular size extended socket does not do the job and neither will just a wrench. These puppies are on there extremely tight. I had to order a 7.5 inch, 19mm socket. If you have a cutter you can cut 2 - 3 inches of the shaft off and you'll be able to complete the job. I still have to do these. I only got to do 6 out of 8 but it still made a HUGE difference. I thought this car handled good before but now it is so friggin' nimble. I just didn't think a 63 dollar mod could make so much of a difference. It's actually ridiculous!!! This in my opinion is a must have mod for this car. I can't stress this enough!!! I hope this helps whoever tries these and if you need any advice, just ask.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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Mike! Two things: First, I think you are quite a guy to get this project accomplished...certainly showed good courage and are obviously a heck of wrench! Second, I understand the theory behind why the collars would be helpful as things wear in and loosen up...but I don't understand why you would have noticeably better handling when everything was as tight as it was?

Also, did you jack up the car by the centerline at the front and back? What locations did you choose?
 

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Do the collars have a slit to be able to slide them on without completely removing the bolts? Or are you removing the bolts 100% and adding the collar like you would a washer?

Also, does the product come with instructions? Pictures to help identify and whatnot?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the kind words, Bud. The reason I have noticeably better handling is because everything is even tighter than it was, much tighter. Normal suspension mode now feels like something between normal and sport. N mode is crazy! This car was a confident little beast to begin with now it's shows it's venom. It corners better, there is less of a jerky feel now and when cornering it seems much, much flatter. These collars do not let the body of the car move on the subframes. It almost feels like I put in larger front and rear sway bars. It's that good of an improvement. Seriously, anyone that does autocross will love these.

I used the pinch welds to lift the car. There are re-inforced pinch welds in the front of the rocker panel behind the front tire and in back in front of the rear tires. I have to say, the pinch welds on this car are the strongest ones I have ever seen. And there are reinforcements all over the place underneath. I was very surprised to see it all. Plus, the exhaust system is extremely stout. High flow cat and a pretty good size downpipe. And at least 2.75 in piping. Plenty for this car....

Spartan,

You have to take the bolt completely out to put the collars on. There is no way around that. It doesn't come with instructions but on the link I provided it tells you what ones go where. I tried to do that the best I could. Sometimes my mind gets ahead of my fingers. lol... It's basically, take the whole bolt out slide on the collar and re-install the bolt. BTW, it's best to get an alignment once you complete the install. This was the best mod so far I did to the car. Hope this helped you?

Best regards,

-Mike
 
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Thank you for the kind words, Bud. The reason I have noticeably better handling is because everything is even tighter than it was, much tighter. Normal suspension mode now feels like something between normal and sport. N mode is crazy! This car was a confident little beast to begin with now it's shows it's venom. It corners better, there is less of a jerky feel now and when cornering it seems much, much flatter. These collars do not let the body of the car move on the subframes. It almost feels like I put in larger front and rear sway bars. It's that good of an improvement. Seriously, anyone that does autocross will love these.

I used the pinch welds to lift the car. There are re-inforced pinch welds in the front of the rocker panel behind the front tire and in back in front of the rear tires. I have to say, the pinch welds on this car are the strongest ones I have ever seen. And there are reinforcements all over the place underneath. I was very surprised to see it all. Plus, the exhaust system is extremely stout. High flow cat and a pretty good size downpipe. And at least 2.75 in piping. Plenty for this car....

Spartan,

You have to take the bolt completely out to put the collars on. There is no way around that. It doesn't come with instructions but on the link I provided it tells you what ones go where. I tried to do that the best I could. Sometimes my mind gets ahead of my fingers. lol... It's basically, take the whole bolt out slide on the collar and re-install the bolt. BTW, it's best to get an alignment once you complete the install. This was the best mod so far I did to the car. Hope this helped you?

Best regards,

-Mike
Noticeably better handlig is subjective. I'd be willing to be that there is no improvement in actual handling. I was interested in this but my research suggest the improvement is all subjective. I drive my car hard! And I mean running limits of adhesion on corners on a daily basis, no joke. I took of one hardware instalation at a time and there was no sign of movement in the frame zippo! I have since paint marked areas to inspect at a later date but I don't see it being an issue. Many have tried this and also noticed no measurable results.
https://www.velosterturbo.org/threads/rigid-collars-make-no-difference-whatsoever.20482/page-2
 
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
You could be right but I know what my car felt like before the install. I drive my car on a daily basis 33 miles one way to work so I know it's habits better than anyone. The only way you will be convinced it to give them a try. In the grand scheme of things really what is $63.00? I think, no I know you'll be glad you did. I did a bunch of research too and it was a toss up but I said for 63 bucks, why not? I am absolutely happy I did. Extremely!!! And no, I do NOT work or am out to advertise for Uniq Performance collars.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Basically, these collars join the subframe and the body of the car making them act as one unit and you can tell. Boomba should make these. Maybe he can put them on his VN and come back with a review?

-Mike
 

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Noticeably better handlig is subjective. I'd be willing to be that there is no improvement in actual handling. I was interested in this but my research suggest the improvement is all subjective. I drive my car hard! And I mean running limits of adhesion on corners on a daily basis, no joke. I took of one hardware instalation at a time and there was no sign of movement in the frame zippo! I have since paint marked areas to inspect at a later date but I don't see it being an issue. Many have tried this and also noticed no measurable results.
https://www.velosterturbo.org/threads/rigid-collars-make-no-difference-whatsoever.20482/page-2
LateralGrip! Sounds to me like you should be the next guy to have this install and then see what you thought of the result. Maybe we could all chip in and buy the parts...I would be glad to help with the install if I was closer...maybe I would learn something. As Mike said, I know it is pretty stout underneath...a lot of additional welds and reinforcement pieces above the "standard" non N Veloster....The whole car continues to amaze me.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Always remember there are always 2 points of contact on bolts. One on top and the other on the bottom. Just because you see no movement on the bottom doesn't mean it's the same for the top. When you extract these bolts you can jiggle them around the holes. It's like throwing a hot dog down a hallway.... Just something else to think about. BTW, if I had a lift this install is less than 30 minutes....

Best regards,

-Mike
 
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Also, I didn't write this install/review to tell people to go and do it. I just wanted to share my experiences and let you all decide what you want to do. In my personal opinion it is a very worthwhile mod. A lot of people in this thread like these collars...

https://www.velosterturbo.org/threads/turbosocks-rigid-collar-install.2944/

Good luck with what ever you all decide.

Best regards,

-Mike
 
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I did this for my '16 VT and I "felt" like i could tell a difference. With strut braces and torsion bar added it was definitelty a better handling VT, given that gen wasn't really a "performance" car out of the factory.
The N is, of course, an entirely different beast with added welds and bracings stock. Collars still serve a purpose, but i'd think the "gain" would be negligible here.
(doesn't mean i may not do it in the future, though) ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I have a flatter turning VN now which I like very much. No more lean around turns. Not like there was a lot before but it sure is better now. It may be negligible but I can tell a difference. Maybe I am just tuned in to my car more than the average Joe. I was just posting my findings. It's up to the individual on what they want to do.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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I will probably be picking a set of these up eventually. Whether or not I feel a difference for $60 they won't harm the car :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You are absolutely correct. You'll love them, I am quite sure. And it was free shipping too from Canada.

When I backed the bolt off even just a few threads from the subframe it jiggled around. The bolts we are talking about are at least 5 to 7 inches long and the holes they go through are much bigger all the way through to the chassis so there is a lot of space for it to move. Especially in an older vehicle. I just wanted to remedy it now instead of later. And just to make sure I am getting a new alignment on Thursday. :)

If you do get a set let us know what you think.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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Good man, well worth the expense.:wink:

The collars, will keep the body and chassis solid and moving as one, as the car becomes older. No matter how tight you get the body to chassis coupling points, there will still be movement as they wear. The collars are tapered and will keep everything tight, no matter how old.:smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I think it's the best mod I did so far. It wasn't that bad of an install either. If I did it again I could do it all in 45 minutes. It a great cheap mod!

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I got an alignment today and as I suspected it was off a little bit. Everything is now great! Even better than before. Great mod!!!

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No, I got a factory one. I made sure it is in spec. after the install. It was off a little bit and the steering wheel wasn't centered. It is now and the thing is even better than before. I have absolutely no complaints. One of the best cars I have owned so far!

Br,

-Mike
 
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