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Well. these went in today and the hardest part was jacking the car up and putting it on jack stands. I'll try and do my best to go through the steps. You will need the following tools:
Blue locktite
Breaker bar
6 inch extension
19mm tall socket & 6" to 7" 19mm socket
14MM socket or closed end box wrench
Torque wrench
jack stands
In the first pic you have to access the nut through the front a-arm hole. You absolutely need the breaker bar here. The nuts ARE on there. Here you use a collar marked F and has the smaller hole in it. (There is another marked F in the package that has a much bigger hole in it. This one goes on the front bolt on the rear subframe.) I put the collar on and then tightened the nut till the collar sat flush to the subframe. This is to seat the collar in the hole since it's hard to get it in there by just pushing it in. I then backed off the collar a little to where it was very loose. Then I moved to the rear subframe bolt on the front subframe.
In the second pic, this is the rear bolt on the front subframe. You can only access this bolt by taking off the bracket seen in the 3rd pic. This is where the 14mm wrench/socket comes in to play. You have 3 nuts to remove and 2 bolts. (Check the location of the jack stand since one of the bracket bolts is very close to where the jack stand goes.) Once you remove the bracket you can get to the 2nd subframe bolt. The bolt that needs to be removed has a bolt protrusion on it. Remove this bolt, slide a collar that says R over the bolt and finger tighten it back in. The procedure is the exact same for the other side. Once on the last bolt put some blue locktite on the bolt threads and torque it to 130 ft lbs. Now go back and extract each bolt or nut and put some blue locktite on it before torquing them all down to 130 ft lbs. Now put on the bracket and just tighten the bolts and nuts pretty good. These do not need to be torqued.
Now on to the rear subframe... In this 4th pic is the rear subframe front bolt. This one is pretty easy to come out, but I still needed a breaker bar to break it free. I used it to break them all free then switched to a regular socket wrench to speed up the process. With this bolt you will use the collar marked R and and is 16mm around. It has the thicker wall on it. Extract this bolt and slide on the collar. Tighten but do not torque down yet. Go to the other front bolt on the rear subframe and do the same. This is just to center the front part of the subframe. Now extract the first front bolt and put some blue locktite on the threads and torque down to 130 ft lbs. Do the same for the other front bolt on the other side of the rear subframe. Now on to the rear subframe nuts.
In this 5th and final pic you need at least a 6 inch long 19mm socket to get it off. The chassis bolt extends at least 5 to 6 inches and a regular size extended socket does not do the job and neither will just a wrench. These puppies are on there extremely tight. I had to order a 7.5 inch, 19mm socket. If you have a cutter you can cut 2 - 3 inches of the shaft off and you'll be able to complete the job. I still have to do these. I only got to do 6 out of 8 but it still made a HUGE difference. I thought this car handled good before but now it is so friggin' nimble. I just didn't think a 63 dollar mod could make so much of a difference. It's actually ridiculous!!! This in my opinion is a must have mod for this car. I can't stress this enough!!! I hope this helps whoever tries these and if you need any advice, just ask.
Best regards,
-Mike
Blue locktite
Breaker bar
6 inch extension
19mm tall socket & 6" to 7" 19mm socket
14MM socket or closed end box wrench
Torque wrench
jack stands
In the first pic you have to access the nut through the front a-arm hole. You absolutely need the breaker bar here. The nuts ARE on there. Here you use a collar marked F and has the smaller hole in it. (There is another marked F in the package that has a much bigger hole in it. This one goes on the front bolt on the rear subframe.) I put the collar on and then tightened the nut till the collar sat flush to the subframe. This is to seat the collar in the hole since it's hard to get it in there by just pushing it in. I then backed off the collar a little to where it was very loose. Then I moved to the rear subframe bolt on the front subframe.
In the second pic, this is the rear bolt on the front subframe. You can only access this bolt by taking off the bracket seen in the 3rd pic. This is where the 14mm wrench/socket comes in to play. You have 3 nuts to remove and 2 bolts. (Check the location of the jack stand since one of the bracket bolts is very close to where the jack stand goes.) Once you remove the bracket you can get to the 2nd subframe bolt. The bolt that needs to be removed has a bolt protrusion on it. Remove this bolt, slide a collar that says R over the bolt and finger tighten it back in. The procedure is the exact same for the other side. Once on the last bolt put some blue locktite on the bolt threads and torque it to 130 ft lbs. Now go back and extract each bolt or nut and put some blue locktite on it before torquing them all down to 130 ft lbs. Now put on the bracket and just tighten the bolts and nuts pretty good. These do not need to be torqued.
Now on to the rear subframe... In this 4th pic is the rear subframe front bolt. This one is pretty easy to come out, but I still needed a breaker bar to break it free. I used it to break them all free then switched to a regular socket wrench to speed up the process. With this bolt you will use the collar marked R and and is 16mm around. It has the thicker wall on it. Extract this bolt and slide on the collar. Tighten but do not torque down yet. Go to the other front bolt on the rear subframe and do the same. This is just to center the front part of the subframe. Now extract the first front bolt and put some blue locktite on the threads and torque down to 130 ft lbs. Do the same for the other front bolt on the other side of the rear subframe. Now on to the rear subframe nuts.
In this 5th and final pic you need at least a 6 inch long 19mm socket to get it off. The chassis bolt extends at least 5 to 6 inches and a regular size extended socket does not do the job and neither will just a wrench. These puppies are on there extremely tight. I had to order a 7.5 inch, 19mm socket. If you have a cutter you can cut 2 - 3 inches of the shaft off and you'll be able to complete the job. I still have to do these. I only got to do 6 out of 8 but it still made a HUGE difference. I thought this car handled good before but now it is so friggin' nimble. I just didn't think a 63 dollar mod could make so much of a difference. It's actually ridiculous!!! This in my opinion is a must have mod for this car. I can't stress this enough!!! I hope this helps whoever tries these and if you need any advice, just ask.
Best regards,
-Mike
