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Valve cover an all sundays removal. Loosen the motor mounts lower and upper. It's the only way short of pulling the engine forwards. Turbocharger and manifold are one piece.
Only info available here on this forum. Book a 2 dayer on this one. It's not for the faint of heart or a novice. Not that you are just something a novice doesn't want to consider without experienced assistance.
 

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2020 PP Race Red//Fully Bolted
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Oooookay. There isn't much information on this at all so ill share my experience. What led to the turbo needing to be removed was a snapped off downpipe stud. So for those of you considering doing the downpipe I cant stress it enough, SOAK the studs in pb blaster 4 times a day everyday a week before you start the job.

I didn't take pictures of the process so my apologies its not a formal write up but i will make a list of everything that had to come apart and in the order I took it off. If any of you have questions about this please dm me ill help you the best i can.

  1. All the heat shields (on one the bolt is under the head and the turbo needs to be loosened to get it off, Also the shield on the back/underside of the turbo can only be accessed once the downpipe is off)
  2. Downpipe
  3. E Waste Gate
  4. Intake/Turbo inlet
  5. Cable bracket for o2 sensor
  6. Cable bracket for sensor on back passenger side of engine toward the top
  7. Coil packs
  8. Coil pack wiring harness from valve cover
  9. Both engine hoist brackets
  10. High pressure fuel pump
  11. Coolant and oil feed/drain lines from turbo
  12. Valve cover
  13. Turbo (be prepared to wrestle with this a little bit. there is only one way it will come out through the top, but it will fit i promise. Be careful not to scratch or drop the turbo onto the cam/valve cover area.)
I'm sure I'm forgetting a few details but the turbo can be removed without undoing motor mounts and rocking the engine. This will save you from having to undo coolant and boost hoses.

This job isn't for the feint of heart, you will need a lift (I used a quickjack system), lots of tools (there were times where I had to use 3 extensions+ a wobbly..etc.) and a boat load of patience. Again, this is just a quick rundown and to let you guys know that it CAN be done. Please if you stumble on this thread while trying to tackle this job, DM me.

Also, HUGE shoutout to Sxth element (Nathan) for taking the time to answer my questions. Top notch customer service.
 

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When you initially went to upgrade your down pipe, did you soak the bolts at all? I am to do mine but I don't want to run into this....

Thank you in advance.

Br,

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When you initially went to upgrade your down pipe, did you soak the bolts at all? I am to do mine but I don't want to run into this....

Thank you in advance.

Br,

-Mike
I only sprayed them right as I was beginning the job. They did not get to soak overnight or anything like that..2 of the studs came out with the nut. On the other 2 the nut stripped the threads on the stud so I had to split them off. I welded a nut to one and it snapped the stud. I was unsuccessful in trying to drill it out. The rest is history lol
 

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Thank you for the response. I plan on doing this in a 3 day period. A Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. Plan on soaking the bolts multiple times before a removal attempt. I think with all the heat the bolts almost weld themselves to the stud. I am praying a 3 day soaking will do the trick. Thank you.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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I only sprayed them right as I was beginning the job. They did not get to soak overnight or anything like that..2 of the studs came out with the nut. On the other 2 the nut stripped the threads on the stud so I had to split them off. I welded a nut to one and it snapped the stud. I was unsuccessful in trying to drill it out. The rest is history lol
When you initially went to upgrade your down pipe, did you soak the bolts at all? I am to do mine but I don't want to run into this....

Thank you in advance.

Br,

-Mike
Always use the double nut technique when removing exhaust studs, always. One nut locks the other into place so you can take out the studs. Always replace the studs with APR Stainless Steel studs. Always, soak the threads first and for at least two days prior to removal, with liquid wrench or an equivalent chemical.

Have the appropriate tap and die available, along with a nut splitter as well.
 

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I have everything you said except the tap and die, nut splitter. I guess I could get my wife for the last part.... lol... 🤣

I bought this special WD-40 penetrator stuff. I used it on the rusty/corroded nuts and bolts holding on a EGR valve on an 03 Buick. They were original..... They came loose after about an hour. I WAS impressed. I NEVER had anything work like this. Not even PB Blaster..... LMK, if you think this will work?

Br,

-Mike
 

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My son just ran into this issue with stuck studs. He grabbed the wrong part number for ARP studs (400-8007 but should have gotten 400-8006). One of the studs is stuck now and had to have it towed to a shop. They are going to have to pull the entire motor to remove the turbo. This is by the book and they stated that insurance will not allow them to perform some of these other non-recommended ways of trying to pull the turbo.

F me....


-Sam
 

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Is this for a DP install or turbocharger removal?
The turbo has an ARP studs stuck in it. My son was replacing the studs as a part of a downpipe installation. He must have over torqued or cross-threaded the stud. Now the stud has snapped off trying to remove it and the shop has to remove the turbo to machine out the remaining piece of stud. The shop is currently working on it and wants over $2,200 to remove the motor to pull the turbo then it will be several hundred more for the machine shop to machine out the stud and correct the threads.

-Sam
 

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You can get the broken stud out without a shop if you have the right tools. There’s enough room to work on it without pulling the motor.

You need a center punch, drill, drill bits easy out kit and the proper size tap, along with a little patience.

Center punch the broken bolt leaving a good indent in the middle of the shank. Use a cobalt or titanium drill bit about a third of the size of the bolt shank to drill out the center about halfway into the broken shank. Use a slightly larger easy out to pull the shank, then redress the threads with the proper size tap.

I admit there isn’t a lot of working room but it’s doable with the space available and a damn sight cheaper than having to pull the motor and have a machine shop clear the shank.
 

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Yeah that sounds great but we have no one here with the time or skill set to perform those actions. I'm currently in a very small rental house and my son was working on this thing out in the road where he's not supposed to so we are kind of stuck...

The shop is also stating that they can't get a drill in that small of a space without it being angled. They can't drill out the stud and use an easy-out with it being angled.


Sam
 

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I don't think I will EVER do a downpipe with the possibility of this nightmare. I guess though if I do I need to do it sooner rather than later. It seems like the longer the studs are in the higher chance that there will be an issue getting the studs out.
 

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More info:

Thought we'd hold at the current shop before we let them attempt to remove the entire motor to remove the broken stud from the turbo.


NO OTHER SHOP WILL PROVIDE ANY QUOTE WITHOUT LOOKING AT IT.


So am I supposed to drive a tow truck around all day, dragging the car from shop to shop for them to look at it?

How would any non-mechanical person make heads or tails of this?


-Sam
 

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More info:

Thought we'd hold at the current shop before we let them attempt to remove the entire motor to remove the broken stud from the turbo.

NO OTHER SHOP WILL PROVIDE ANY QUOTE WITHOUT LOOKING AT IT.

So am I supposed to drive a tow truck around all day, dragging the car from shop to shop for them to look at it?

How would any non-mechanical person make heads or tails of this?


-Sam
Tell them you need a quote for the labor to remove and replace the turbocharger assembly. They will quote you off book time, and you can decide based on that, however they may find that they need more time / other complications. You can tell them about the studs but the important labor is the R&R turbocharger assy.
 

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Tell them you need a quote for the labor to remove and replace the turbocharger assembly. They will quote you off book time, and you can decide based on that, however they may find that they need more time / other complications. You can tell them about the studs but the important labor is the R&R turbocharger assy.
The problem with this is the existing shop shows the book time of 18 hours to remove the turbocharger assembly... (which requires engine removal)


-Sam
 

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The problem with this is the existing shop shows the book time of 18 hours to remove the turbocharger assembly... (which requires engine removal)


-Sam
Then that is the time they can charge you for, even if they do not drop the engine to do it. There are, according to the forum, other ways to remove the turbo but a shop isn't going to know that or want to do other than what the book says. Unless they have a technician who is comfortable doing it or has done it before, then they may be able to work with you based on how many hours the tech asks for. You may want to see if there is a shop local to you who works on Hyundais and Velosters specifically.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Wish I could help you out. It's honestly not a terrible job with the right tools. Just extremely time consuming. I'm about to do it again next weekend. Got a pure turbo otw.

Even though there is room to work on it with the turbo in the car. There was NO way I was getting that stud out properly. The turbo does need to come out. If you have the downpipe off you are past the hardest part. If a shop is going to charge you thousands it might be worth buying a quick jack and the tools to do it yourself. Let me know if I can help in any way I'd be glad to answer questions.

Also, you could jump on Facebook and ask around in car groups for a solid mechanic. A performance oriented shop might be open to other methods not of the book.
 
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