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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im a lil concerned about the turbo flutter on my engine.i installed the turbosmart BoV and AEM intake and the amounts of turbo flutter baffles me when i lay off the gas at high rev. As far as i had understood flutter is bad for turbo but what really has me doubting myself is that ive seen videos of the engine fluttering just by taking the factory intake cover off....

Id appreciate any coments or advise as to if i should do something or if its fine

-Alex
 

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Change the bov solenoid to a MAC one and the flutter will basically disappear.


Br,

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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That will control boost release of the bov much better. It feels crisper and cleaner. Oh, and your very welcome. I'm always around to help.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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I noticed this flutter too with the GFP Mach 2...but then I put the stock valve back on and took the airbox lid off...and the flutter is actually there stock. Although, after researching it a bit, it seems off throttle flutter is generally ok, but on throttle flutter is no good. I'm curious about those MAC solenoids but any info I can find is 50/50 if they are good or not... @Ghost you seem happy with yours?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I noticed this flutter too with the GFP Mach 2...but then I put the stock valve back on and took the airbox lid off...and the flutter is actually there stock. Although, after researching it a bit, it seems off throttle flutter is generally ok, but on throttle flutter is no good. I'm curious about those MAC solenoids but any info I can find is 50/50 if they are good or not... @Ghost you seem happy with yours?
Idk about ghost but as far as i can tell the sxth sense one everyone giving it good reviews. Ove seen others get mixed but not the sxth one.. thats the one im buying tomorrow... hopefuly it will arrive fast
 

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Idk about ghost but as far as i can tell the sxth sense one everyone giving it good reviews. Ove seen others get mixed but not the sxth one.. thats the one im buying tomorrow... hopefuly it will arrive fast
Please post about your experience!
 

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I have the Sxth which is just a long harness with needed connector and metal barbed fittings (key to my buying mine) version. Mine came quick, mounted it in a raceart mount that cost almost what the valve cost, and pair with a GFB respons BOV. I have no issues, but I never ran it aftermarket BOV sans MAC valve. Youtube my username for videos.
 

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I noticed this flutter too with the GFP Mach 2...but then I put the stock valve back on and took the airbox lid off...and the flutter is actually there stock. Although, after researching it a bit, it seems off throttle flutter is generally ok, but on throttle flutter is no good. I'm curious about those MAC solenoids but any info I can find is 50/50 if they are good or not... @Ghost you seem happy with yours?
Is that the gfb Mach 2 recirculating ?

This is the one I have on my VN and the rubber seal on the Mach 2 isn't the same shape as the OEM.

Will that be a problem? The bolt mounts are one to one just not the seal.
 

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The car comes stock with flutter especially if you remove the air box lid so I’d believe that Hyundai has cleared it as safe occurrence. Generally off throttle flutter is completely fine. The real killer is flutter under throttle which is much more rare especially with our small turbos.
 

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I like the MAC valve It's more reliable than the factory one. It's worth the money IMHO.

Br,

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Please post about your experience!
Got my mac today. Was really intimidated about installing it but it turned out to be really easy. 1hr later it was done. Flutter is there but at least is not as bad as it was before where it would ocassioanlly flutter under light throttle. Only have tested it today but will post if anything else happens.

Tldr: good buy easy install
 

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Bumping an old thread...

I'm interested in getting the HKS BOV and am curious why everyone is upgrading the boost controller? I thought the only reason you'd need to upgrade the solenoid is if you're increasing boost, which I'm not. Is there empirical evidence that a MAC valve is better than factory? If so - can someone please explain in what way? I've tried researching this for the past week or so but can't really find anything meaningful if I'm keeping boost the same.

Also, N75 Motorsports based in Canada had mentioned in a random IG post that MAC valves are only rated for 40C operating temps which is obviously too low. But they also of course sell their own EBCS so not sure if this claim had any merit to it.

Basically, I don't want to upgrade things for the sake of upgrading and if changing to a MAC valve doesn't yield tangible value then I'd prefer spending my money on other parts. Thanks!
 

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To make a correction and to clarify; The N75 RACE VALVE BOV SOLENOID VALVE REPLACEMENT KIT (PIERBURG), is not a EBSC. The EBSC is not a replacement for the BOV valve it's for the 1.6T wastegate solenoid. BOV Solenoid is also for the 1.6T.

The only BOV Control Valve available for the VN is the MAC Valve currently. The MAC Controller provides much better boost recovery response at the throttle than the OEM unit. The OEM unit won't cycle as quickly. The MAC valve is a much faster operating valve that will help eliminate fluttering and allow for a crisper release of your blow-off valve. They flow more and allow for higher boost pressures than stock. They're wrong about the 40C.
 

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Thanks for the correction - I was sure I was mixing up parts/terminology. Sounds like I'll be picking up both the BOV and valve!
 

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im a lil concerned about the turbo flutter on my engine.i installed the turbosmart BoV and AEM intake and the amounts of turbo flutter baffles me when i lay off the gas at high rev. As far as i had understood flutter is bad for turbo but what really has me doubting myself is that ive seen videos of the engine fluttering just by taking the factory intake cover off....

Id appreciate any comments or advise as to if i should do something or if its fine

-Alex
One thing to clarify, what you're hearing and experiencing is not turbo flutter. You' re simply hearing the normal operation of the turbo and BOV/diverter operation. There is not enough boost pressure to produce turbo flutter, which is an uncontrolled release of high boost pressure, which causes compressor surge.
 

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One thing I would do with the MAC valve is remove one screw at a time and put a tiny bit of blue thread locker on each one then re-install. Sometimes from opening and closing so much the body separates after a while. This IS the only issue I have ever heard of with these valves besides someone not hooking up the lines the right way. Hope this helps?

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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One thing I would do with the MAC valve is remove one screw at a time and put a tiny bit of blue thread locker on each one then re-install. Sometimes from opening and closing so much the body separates after a while. This IS the only issue I have ever heard of with these valves besides someone not hooking up the lines the right way. Hope this helps?

Best regards,

-Mike
Great idea! I'm also looking into solenoid bracket options other than Raceart since I'm not a fan of that middle brace that wraps around the solenoid since it looks like it might rub against the harness wiring.
 

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Well if all else fails and you end up using one.... It doesn't rub... If it did, wouldn't be on my car. You also have to put a washer or two between the mount and the intake pipe or the factory bolt WILL bottom out on the pipe and the mount will not be tight. I found that out the hard way. Lol....

Br,

-Mike
 
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