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Yes. Pulled out the sensor on the front of the intake manifold and was able to snake borescope down to one cylinder.
Nice. I have attempted in the past but with no luck. Now that I know it can be done I'll just keep at it until I can snake the scope down to a valve or two.
 

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Will the scope go down where the hose is in the manifold? The one that attaches to one of the ports to the catch can?

-Mike
 

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Will the scope go down where the hose is in the manifold? The one that attaches to one of the ports to the catch can?

-Mike
I think it should. Honestly, I was going to try and fit my scope head through that PCV port on the IM that attaches to the catch can. One would think that would be the easiest place to fit a larger boroscope head. The only issue is that its a ***** and a half to remove the PCV hose that is attached to the IM because the clip is in such an inconvenient location. But I will give it a try this weekend as I am still trying to capture photos of my valves. I have had no luck yet with my boroscope head navigating all the way to the valves from the front of the IM port.
 

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I have a set of very long needle nose pliers that does the trick. They almost look like forceps they are so long. Let us know how it goes? Good luck.

Br,

-Mike
 

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Stickied for future reference! this is good information.
 
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As long as you're not running boost far beyond OEM specifications, there's not much of a problem. When you start pushing over 21 psi regularly is when more blowby begins along with more oil dilution that will turn into carbon on the intake valves, TB and intake tube.

If you're planning to raise the boost beyond OEM levels, install a CC on both the PCV and Intake sides like below;
3956
 

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As long as you're not running boost far beyond OEM specifications, there's not much of a problem. When you start pushing over 21 psi regularly is when more blowby begins along with more oil dilution that will turn into carbon on the intake valves, TB and intake tube.

If you're planning to raise the boost beyond OEM levels, install a CC on both the PCV and Intake sides like below;
View attachment 3956
Stock boost is around 14-15 psi right? Ive seen light tunes that only raise boost by about 4psi, so would that still be safe then without a catch can?

Also from what ive seen the PCV side has the most blowby? Was looking at getting a catch can just for pcv but might have to look into both
 

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Under 20psi, yes! Yes most of it comes from the PCV side. It comes from blowby, water and fuel dilution of the oil. Typical of a GDI, however the VN is a pretty tight engine and the vapor accumulation is near nil between oil changes. Which is the time to check the CC's if you have them.

CC's are easy to install and good insurance in the long run if you have any doubts about engine deposits. Also have the head chemically cleaned every 30K utilizing the;
Gasoline-Direct-Injection | BG Services

The BG website seems to be down at the moment but I'll leave the link for when it comes back up. Costs about $250 and cleans the entire head, injector and intake system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I sort of forgot about this thread because I haven't been here much, but here's a.. sort of late.. update.

Here's my valves at 10K miles. Lots and lots of hard mountain road driving on the weekends and short 3 mile trips to work during the week. Top tier Exxon 93, PP 5W30 GF6 oil on 3K intervals, JB4 running a custom map, Forge intake, 3" turbo inlet, no catch cans.



They don't look terrible but they're far from clean. The deposits are soft enough to push off with a dental pick. Still.. I don't want them any dirtier than this even though it will run without misfires with build-up four times thicker than this. So I walnut blasted them. Yeah 10K is super early and nobody in their right mind would pay hundreds of dollars every 10K to do it. I'm doing it myself and it costs me about 1/2 pound of walnut shell. So like $5. It was super easy, like, faster and easier than doing the CRC or BG foam which takes a little over an hour if it's done right. It was also cheap, did I mention it was cheap? Of course, it is not cheap if you're a muppet and get a bunch of walnut shells in someplace they aren't meant to go, so keep that in mind.

The intake manifold takes about 15 minutes to remove because we have no coolant lines running through it like the 1.6t cars do. It's just a few wires and easy to access bolts and nuts, nothing in the way or difficult to reach. No gaskets needed, they're silicone rings and will reseal perfectly fine a few times. I will replace them the third time I have it apart just to be safe.

The only thing that's mildly annoying is that you can't reach the crank bolt from the engine bay like you can on 1.6 models, so you have to turn the steering full right and pull the wheel liner back and use a long extension to turn the crank to get each piston to TDC (to close both valves during blasting) as you go. I think I might get a hole saw and drill the liner for a snap in 1.5" plastic plug like most cars already have. I plan to blast the valves every 10K just because it's easy and IMO it's worth keeping the valves from getting any dirtier than this because it will help the engine run cleaner if the air is flowing unimpeded and not having to flow around big lumps of junk. Of particular note is that idle is noticeably smoother now and startups are smoother as well. It's like brand new again.

Also, there's now someone on ebay selling 3d printed vacuum cleaner port adaptors that fit the 1.6 and will also work reasonably well on this motor. I didn't have one this time around so I used a universal adapter, but got one for next time and it should help speed things up even more. As it is, it still only took me about an hour total.

I was so preoccupied with keeping track of how much time it was taking that I put it back together without taking any photos of the clean valves. So just imagine clean valves that flow really smooth.



I plan on installing a Mann Hummel Provent 100 in the PCV line to see if it improves the rate of valve deposits. Hopefully with less oil vapor sticking to the valves less soot will stick and build up. That's a story for a whole different time and thread. I'll get to that write-up after I finish installing it.
 

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Those valves look great. I am assuming no CC?

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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Wow, imagine if you had one? My Ford Fusion looked like complete $hit with just 10K miles on it. About 4 to 5 times worse than yours. And I didn't have a CC either. I certainly do in my VN. Thank you for the reply.

Br,

-Mike
 

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@30,500 miles.

Always costco top tier 93 octane gasoline
Always running some kind of fuel additive
: Marvel Mystery Oil, Redline SI, Lucas Upper Cyllinder blah zay blah zay
Boomba PCV Catch Can
Always driving like a hooligan.
Have done at least 3 to 4 CRC Valve Intake Cleaner sprays in car's life.




Could only manage to get down to Intake Valve for Cylinder #2.

LOOK WHOS GONNA BE BLASTING SOME WALNUTS!!!!!

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@30,500 miles.

Always costco top tier 93 octane gasoline
Always running some kind of fuel additive
: Marvel Mystery Oil, Redline SI, Lucas Upper Cyllinder blah zay blah zay
Boomba PCV Catch Can
Always driving like a hooligan.
Have done at least 3 to 4 CRC Valve Intake Cleaner sprays in car's life.




Could only manage to get down to Intake Valve for Cylinder #2.

LOOK WHOS GONNA BE BLASTING SOME WALNUTS!!!!!

View attachment 7081

View attachment 7075 View attachment 7076 View attachment 7077 View attachment 7078 View attachment 7079
No, you don’t need to blast it with walnuts. This is only required in extreme carbonized valves .

All you need is a BG GDI PLATINUM SERVICE.

 

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The intake manifold takes about 15 minutes to remove
Bless... The book makes it look like a crazy job and certain bolts around the manifold look unreachable but apparently not!

All very much visible and reachable

Product Organism Line Font Engineering


No, you don’t need to blast it with walnuts. This is only required in extreme carbonized valves .

All you need is a BG GDI PLATINUM SERVICE.

Dang, that's just a fuel additive huh? :O

Thought those dont really help GDI systems. If its a fuel system cleaner, i heard Polyetheramine is like the #1 ingredient out there to prevent and knock off carbon build up since it survives combustion temperatures and what not. But if it is a fuel system cleaner, how does that help GDI intake valves :eek:



edit: ooo okay it looks like a spray nozzle similar to the CRC valve cleaner spray

I learned this from youtube, but I was thinking of grabbing a bundle of zipties, tie them together, then use that as a scratchy-scrubby thingymajig to scrub off some carbon from the valves. With some liquid that helps break up the carbon deposits as well
 

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CRC won’t do the job the BG service provides. The BG Service works well, I’ve had it done in several GDI’s.

No, it’s not a fuel additive. If you believe the carbon can be scraped off with plastic, go ahead. It will be a wasted effort, that won’t accomplish much at all.
 
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