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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I used 2 quarts of Redline MT-LV GL-4 Transmission Fluid. Very quick job.. 24mm drain plug, 17mm inlet plug

Like Ghost had said, the shifts are now like BUTTER.

There was a lot of metal shavings on the trans drain plug, but I also hear that's always a thing when it comes to transmission drain plugs.

Mods so far:
SXTH 200 cell catted downpipe
Ark Midpipe

Things on the way:
Wheels
Konig Ampliform 18" 8.5 Gloss Bronze (Early October)
Tires
Hankook Ventus V12 evo 2 Summer Radial Tire - 235/40R18 95Y
Intake
AFE Takeda Momentum Intake (Late October ; ordered on July 12 :unsure:)
Exhaust
Borla Exhaust (Allegedly late September ship date)
Other
Carbon Fiber Hood OEM Style. I figured the other models with hood vents would introduce rust, water, and etc since my car is outdoors 24/7.

Have but haven't installed
AFE Takeda Turbo Inlet
Boomba Stage 2 PCV Catch Can
Ghost's JetHot Catless Downpipe
NGK 91975 R2556G-8 Racing Plug (Slanted tip? Heat range 8 like stock)

Things I want
N Performance Wing
PPF/Ceramic Coating on paint and wheels
N Performance Strut Bar
400 horsepower
 

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5k miles seems early to me. What is your opinion on doing this at 5k? I was planning on 10k miles. I welcome the opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
5k miles seems early to me. What is your opinion on doing this at 5k? I was planning on 10k miles. I welcome the opinion.
Heya
I can't recall 100%, but I just felt like I was coming across a lot of people talking about replacing that break-in transmission fluid early.
Heard another member either on this forum or other say that you'll see a small performance gain
it was like a $34 job so I said why not :)
 

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It's worth it. I did mine at 9800 miles. Glad I did. A lot of crap on the magnetic drain plug. I figure if we change the break in engine oil early then why not the break in transmission fluid? Makes sense to do it and be done with it. I plan on doing the transmission fluid every 2 seasons thereafter. Hope this helped you?

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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Why are you going from the sxth element down pipe and ark mid pipe to ghosts Russian made DP with the coating and the borla exhaust? What part of that were you not happy with?

also I’m only at my engine break in period, just over 600 miles on the car and I’m thinking about flushing the trans fluid already. Especially after I hear how much better it shifts after this is done. Should I wait till like 1k?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Why are you going from the sxth element down pipe and ark mid pipe to ghosts Russian made DP with the coating and the borla exhaust? What part of that were you not happy with?

also I’m only at my engine break in period, just over 600 miles on the car and I’m thinking about flushing the trans fluid already. Especially after I hear how much better it shifts after this is done. Should I wait till like 1k?
My car had some amazing sound when I installed the SXTH downpipe, but after about 500 miles the car went pretty quiet. I have no idea why. I did a bit of basic googling on o2 sensors, and I wonder if the downstream o2 sensor that is being "fooled" with the j pipe is sending erroneous data to my car. This is all my speculation. This is my first experience with a sports car.

Furthermore, I question if the 200 cell cat in the SXTH is healthy. The straight pipe side to my oem cat back is pitch black with carbon. There are numerous times my exhaust note and pops sound smothered. As if you placed a rag over your mouth and tried to speak. This smother is often or always at low speefs, short drives plus low rpms. I did just pull 120 mph on an empty highway and it the exhaust was all out screaming.. I can't pinpoint it's tilty nature.
Possible bad cat from running too rich, or from the two instances of techron fuel system cleaner and redline s1 fuel cleaner throwing a ton of gunk on the cat?

im going catless and a full 3" system to have the most wicked noise possible.. though what I found with having a catted high flow dp is that the stock muffler is mighty useful when I see bacon.. the Borla's muffler, like the afe takeda catback, looks to be the size of a small shoe box and I hope it can convert the car exhaust volume to a Prius like the OEM muffler currently does


My N button lost its deep rumble bass that it used to have, maybe there are other issues with my car.. fuel, air, spark, compression... I'm too amateur to know at the moment.

Since I received the car with 19 miles off the dealership, there has been this 50 rpm drop at idle,whether it's normal or n mode, at a waltz like tempo. It's super minor but there.

The trans fluid change, at essentially 34 dollars in cost, definitely yielded improvement. Butter like shifts..
 

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I thought ghosts had the j bend as well to eliminate the CEL. Do you have anything that would void the warranty? I’m pretty sure with all aftermarket exhaust and intake stuff they still will honor the warranty. I would have it looked at by the dealer. It sounds like it’s in the computer to me if it’s intermittent. Or like you said a cat issue with the sxth down pipe. Did you message sxth and ask them about it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yes the catless has the jpipe and yes it does eliminate the CEL. Maybe the downstream sensor has nothing to do with a/f. I couldn't find any information if the artificially spaced downstream sensor would send inaccurate readings to the ecm. I know the upstream o2 sensor determines to run rich/lean. - which I hear can get coated and lose functionality.

I avoid dealers like the plague honestly....

I'm hoping after some changes like a spark plug replacement, ignition coil replacement, fuel lines, etc that the car will not have that 50rpm dip at idle.

I strictly use 93 gas, my rpm band doesn't appear to hesitate, seems smooth and linear. I forgot to mention that my boost readings are 0 across the graph unless Im on the gas hard or struggling up hill. I used to see all kinds of minor boost readings but now it's flat 0's unless I smash the pedal. Maybe I have a turbo issue as well. I don't think I have a leak i see 12.5 psi when I'm. WOT. When I first installed the SXTH dp, I saw my boost hit near 20 psi on the dashboard+center screen. Post 500 miles that boost insanity isn't seen anymore, and the symptoms above came during this time as well. My intuition, caveman level, is telling me it does feel like the cars computer regressed to some state. But it's been 2000 miles after said symptoms and no restore.
 

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Does the car feel weaker? Not sure what's necessary to "reset" fuel trims but maybe as simple as disconnecting battery for a while. Would at least help determine if it's a learned behavior or something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Does the car feel weaker? Not sure what's necessary to "reset" fuel trims but maybe as simple as disconnecting battery for a while. Would at least help determine if it's a learned behavior or something else.
A top contributor here and on YouTube named Mike here recommended that I unplug the battery over night which I tried and it didn't appear to restore anything.

It's hard to say if it feels weaker. Normal mode up a hill is terrible. The torque to throttle response definitely got mushier/weaker/less gritty, but if Im aggressive I can pull to 120mph I'd say pretty easy.

It's the change in sound. The car prefers a vacuum noise over screaming. I literally drove next to a wall with the valve open this SXTH dp and the exhaust note was like vacuum cleaner status.

When I first installed the pipe, the car was literally making formula 1 noises and would decimate a city block. .pressing n mode no longer instantly transitions the car to a deep bass rumble like it did before. I used to flicker the modes. Each time n mode was engaged the car had a deep rumble. I was advised maybe the sound generator is broken.

I'll take a picture of my turbo boost graph readings. It's zero across the x axis and only shows spikes and peaks of boost
 

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My car had some amazing sound when I installed the SXTH downpipe, but after about 500 miles the car went pretty quiet. I have no idea why. I did a bit of basic googling on o2 sensors, and I wonder if the downstream o2 sensor that is being "fooled" with the j pipe is sending erroneous data to my car. This is all my speculation. This is my first experience with a sports car.

Furthermore, I question if the 200 cell cat in the SXTH is healthy. The straight pipe side to my oem cat back is pitch black with carbon. There are numerous times my exhaust note and pops sound smothered. As if you placed a rag over your mouth and tried to speak. This smother is often or always at low speefs, short drives plus low rpms. I did just pull 120 mph on an empty highway and it the exhaust was all out screaming.. I can't pinpoint it's tilty nature.
Possible bad cat from running too rich, or from the two instances of techron fuel system cleaner and redline s1 fuel cleaner throwing a ton of gunk on the cat?

im going catless and a full 3" system to have the most wicked noise possible.. though what I found with having a catted high flow dp is that the stock muffler is mighty useful when I see bacon.. the Borla's muffler, like the afe takeda catback, looks to be the size of a small shoe box and I hope it can convert the car exhaust volume to a Prius like the OEM muffler currently does


My N button lost its deep rumble bass that it used to have, maybe there are other issues with my car.. fuel, air, spark, compression... I'm too amateur to know at the moment.

Since I received the car with 19 miles off the dealership, there has been this 50 rpm drop at idle,whether it's normal or n mode, at a waltz like tempo. It's super minor but there.

The trans fluid change, at essentially 34 dollars in cost, definitely yielded improvement. Butter like shifts..
Are you looking to sell dp?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Are you looking to sell dp?
I thought about it but was thinking I should keep it incase the catless gets me in trouble. I'll also have to see how the closed Valve is on the catless plus borla.


I will definitely sell my ark mid pipe once the borla gets here :)
 

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I thought about it but was thinking I should keep it incase the catless gets me in trouble. I'll also have to see how the closed Valve is on the catless plus borla.


I will definitely sell my ark mid pipe once the borla gets here :)
Hm you looking for it when the time comes. Was thinking about grabbing
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Lots of 0 boost readings. If I'm recalling correctly, the turbo readings used to never be this flat line and spiky out the factory.

3443
 

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If all the fuel trims are ok; it sounds like a cat going bad or an O2 sensor starting to go bad. Also, when the weather starts to get colder the car runs even richer. Just an FYI.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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Are you running the stock solenoid & BOV too? If so, you may want to look into changing those at some point. Almost looks like by the graph the stock BOV crapped out. Unsure and only a guess, but it is only a rubber diaphragm. Something else to think about too.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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Heya
I can't recall 100%, but I just felt like I was coming across a lot of people talking about replacing that break-in transmission fluid early.
Heard another member either on this forum or other say that you'll see a small performance gain
it was like a $34 job so I said why not :)
I have a couple of quarts of MT-LV in my shop now waiting for some additional miles.
 

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I just did mine again. I just wanted to see how bad it gets after another 8K. Was very nice so probably didn't have to but wanted to inspect it. Shifts awesome!

The transmission takes between 1.8 and 2.0 quarts of fluid.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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I just did mine again. I just wanted to see how bad it gets after another 8K. Was very nice so probably didn't have to but wanted to inspect it. Shifts awesome!

The transmission takes between 1.8 and 2.0 quarts of fluid.

Best regards,

-Mike
Did you change both the gaskets as well? Wondering if I can get away with just reversing the existing ones
 

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I did change both gaskets. You have to change the drain plug gasket. It gets too crushed and flat. The fill plug gasket looked reusable though. Hope this helps?

Best regards,

-Mike
 
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