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RE71s will last two days, RS4s can last anywhere from a season to a couple days depending how badly they chunk... A harder compound 200tw like the VR1 or NS2R could maybe work, but definitely not the fast ones. They handle better and they are faster, but they dont last as long (nevermind longer) than even a PS4S, no way.
oh I wasn’t suggesting the RE71. I think the RS4 is the way to go, they wear like iron if you treat them right. I think they will go for many more track days than PS4s.

Personally I like NT01s on a separate wheel but I guess that’s a non starter here.
 

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oh I wasn’t suggesting the RE71. I think the RS4 is the way to go, they wear like iron if you treat them right. Personally I like NT01s on a separate wheel but I guess that’s a non starter here.
NT01s are awesome for sure, but yeah I dont think he wants to fiddle around with a dedicated set.

I mean, I did like 2h of track time during a track day in my previous daily (Mazda3) on DZ102s and they did really good, even on a 30min+ session. And that was with probably -0.5 camber at most, whatever a stock 3rd gen has. I cant imagine PS4S or ECS being worse. Meanwhile everytime I used a 200tw tyre (namely RE71s), after 10min they just sucked. Fast, but at the expense of longevity. RS4s I didnt have a good time with either, same for a few friends of mine. But others love them all the same so I dunno. I cant bring myself to suggest them because of my experience lol.
 

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I’m leaning towards what @Leveq has stated for the OP. My second option for what you want would be Yokohama Advan Apex v601.

considerably more longitudinal and lateral grip than OE PIRELLI but not a full out 200tw track tire.

200 dollars cheaper for a set of 4 as opposed to PS4s. However, PS4S is king and will yield the best results in the wet.

I can’t weight in on the CONTIS never had them but know in general they are top of the charts in wet handling and breaking and typically sacrifice dry handling and breaking. YOKO skews their tires to the opposite and MICHELIN sits in the middle doing it all well.

-JE
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thanks for all of the input and opinions everyone. I decided to go with the PS4S’s, I think that’s the safe choice for my use case. My local shop will have them on Tuesday which will give me a few days to break them in and feel them out before heading to Mid Ohio the next week.

It was tempting to go with something faster but this car is primarily my daily and I don’t want to go down the rabbit hole of more tire requiring upgraded brakes, upgraded suspension, etc, etc. Plus I have my BMW track car that’s setup properly to really push hard. I don’t do anything competitive, I do open track days and DE’s and run in the advanced group. When I take the N to the track I’m OK with knowing I can’t lean on it quite as hard, but hopefully the PS4S’s will increase that limit a bit over the stock tires!

For those of you who have used the PS4S’s on the track, what hot pressure works well for them?
 

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2020 Hyundai Veloster N
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If you want something more grippy and can handle track use, you can try the new-ish GTRadial Champiro SX2 RS. I recently got them. I will be using them on track soon. They aren't too expensive either. From feedback I have received from people, they last pretty good. Not RS4 level though.


Edit: I saw the replies after that you got PS4S already. Lol ignore my comment
 

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I would get some tire chalk and start with 35-36 in the front, might have to go up if you're rolling over a lot. I often had to take them all the way up to 39/40 but then there's no grip :(
I think in the end there's no miracle with rollover. Car needs camber, pressures can only do so much.

I'd go 36-38psi hot for a street tyre, R-Comps can run a bit less. Can also get the rears a bit higher just to help the car rotate a bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I think in the end there's no miracle with rollover. Car needs camber, pressures can only do so much.

I'd go 36-38psi hot for a street tyre, R-Comps can run a bit less. Can also get the rears a bit higher just to help the car rotate a bit more.
On the subject of camber, I do have camber bolts but was only able to get -1.5 where most people get close to -2.0. I didn’t notice this when I had them installed last year but the mechanic put the camber bolts in the top hole not the bottom. I’m guessing maybe that accounts for the -.5 degree I’m missing? Do you think it’s worth switching those around to hopefully gain another -.5deg to extend tire life on the track?
 

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On the subject of camber, I do have camber bolts but was only able to get -1.5 where most people get close to -2.0. I didn’t notice this when I had them installed last year but the mechanic put the camber bolts in the top hole not the bottom. I’m guessing maybe that accounts for the -.5 degree I’m missing? Do you think it’s worth switching those around to hopefully gain another -.5deg to extend tire life on the track?
Weird that he would do that, not sure if thats why tho. As for whether its worth it or not, its up to you. It'll make a small difference for sure, every bit helps when you're under-cambered.
 

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On the subject of camber, I do have camber bolts but was only able to get -1.5 where most people get close to -2.0. I didn’t notice this when I had them installed last year but the mechanic put the camber bolts in the top hole not the bottom. I’m guessing maybe that accounts for the -.5 degree I’m missing? Do you think it’s worth switching those around to hopefully gain another -.5deg to extend tire life on the track?
In a word, yes.
 

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I see several suggestions regarding Hankook RS4, great tire but doesn't come in the load rating for the car. If staying on 19" rim, I'd try the Goodyear Supercar 3, while I have no first hand experience but have been on the track with people running them and they've praised them.
My set of priorities decided to go with 18" rim, this opens up many more options with lower rubber prices and figured that in 2 1/2 to 3 years I'd hit a break even price with tire cost to the investment of rims. Your mileage may vary.
 

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Figured I'd put this here because some of y'all were discussing camber.

I just did back to back track days at Putnam and I was lazy and didn't rotate the tires after day one. So the fronts are worn significantly down past the wear indicators. Rears are still above them.

But here's the really interesting part. The insides were more worn than the outsides. With the tires off the car you could actually see a bevel across the width of the tire. I thought I'd be killing the outsides, but I'm not. I guess the 1.7 degrees of camber is not too bad.
 

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Figured I'd put this here because some of y'all were discussing camber.

I just did back to back track days at Putnam and I was lazy and didn't rotate the tires after day one. So the fronts are worn significantly down past the wear indicators. Rears are still above them.

But here's the really interesting part. The insides were more worn than the outsides. With the tires off the car you could actually see a bevel across the width of the tire. I thought I'd be killing the outsides, but I'm not. I guess the 1.7 degrees of camber is not too bad.
Could you send some photos of that front tire?
 

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Could you send some photos of that front tire?
These are on the rear now.

Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Tread Automotive design Road surface

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Tread


but you can clearly see the insides are worn more. Got to get one more track day out of them.

Actually, the more I look at these, the tread depth seems the least in the center so maybe I had them overinflated? But off the car, you could definitely see a slope to the tire.

FWIW, these tires have seen four track days x six sessions = 24 sessions plus...
six regular autocross days plus two fun day autocross days = 60+ runs.
plus one more day this weekend, so wear on the Falken RT615K+ is great. Lap times are meh... Next year I'm going to get a set of these and a set of RT660s and use the RT660s for competitive timed runs and sessions.
 

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The best and smartest thing to do is to have a second set of wheels with separate tires on them so you can just swap wheels when you go to the track.

For a daily tire with capable track performance, I am partial to the Michelin Pilot 4S. But as RedVN has stated already, they can chunk pretty badly with extended/hard track use. That's not to say they aren't a capable tire. You just have to be willing to accept that this can and will happen eventually. Best wet weather tire I have ever driven though on the road.

The Conti ECS I have never used, but I have friends that run them and love them on the road for spirited driving. Lots of great reviews as well from high end performance car owners. I do not know how they deal with track work though.

I personally would recommend NOT using the same tire for the road and track, based on my own experience. This can end up being a recipe for disaster either on the road or on the track. It can be done, but you have to be EXTREMELY aware of your tire condition at all times. It is much easier and safer to find a cheap set of wheels (prefereably stock unless you have significant suspension mods and proper tuning/alignment for them) and put a set of track day tires on them, and just swap the wheels out.
 
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