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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry if this has already been discussed. Looking to buy one of these for my 2020 VN.

SuperPro Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Kit (Rear) Double Offset for 2019-2022 Hyundai Veloster N

Whiteline Anti Lift/ Caster Bushing Kit Front Lower - Hyundai Veloster N 2019+

Does the superpro double offset bushing doing the same thing that the whiteline one does? I read this thread: Anyone install the Whiteline Anti-lift/Caster Bushing kit?
There is a spacer that you install on the top or bottom of the bushing to offset the control arm either up or down.
Does the superpro bushing have that as well?

If you have the superpro bushing, can you scan or take a picture of the installation manual? I can't find a copy of it online.
The fitting instructions here don't provide a lot of info: SPF3809K SuperPro Control Arm Lower-Rear Bush Kit - Double Offset

It also looks like the whiteline bushing is a spherical bearing that is molded inside the metal cup. Am I wrong here? If it is a bearing, I'm wondering if anyone has had issues with theirs developing play after a winter or two. I think the bearing would be ideal since it would allow for plenty of articulation without much play.

Any opinions on the two different designs here?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I wasn't really able to figure anything out. I have read that whiteline's elastomer material is longer lasting than polyurethane. But I don't have any evidence to back that up. I am replacing the front bushing with a whiteline one as well.
 

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Here ya go. I'm planning on installing these and the corresponding front control arm bushings as a system after my June hpde event next weekend. Then get the alignment done. If I'm understanding the system correctly, to gain caster you offset the hole towards the inside thus poking the rear of the control arm outwards and by doing so poke the wheel and hub forward putting more slack in the strut angle creating caster.

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How hard can this actually be? Shouldn't I be able to get a press from Amazon and do this in my garage? $250-370 quoted so far and an indefinite wait to not only get in but also to get the work done one they start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Pressing it out if u have the right tools is not hard. It's having the right tools that is tricky and then making the right tools if u don't that is time consuming. I'm in the processes of doing it. Tried to find something that matches the od of the bushing. It's 2.75" in diameter and I found a place on eBay that sells round stock steel for cheap. To make a receiver, I asked a friend to weld a piece of exhaust tubing to a piece of plate steel. That almost worked but I had another friend mill the ID out a bit with his mill so the bushing would fit in it. After getting those two pieces, I used a ball joint tool and an impact wrench to press the old bushings out. Will use the same tools to press the new ones in.
Getting the front bushings out is exponentially harder. I don't recommend it. The bushing is small diameter and there is so little rubber in there, I can't imagine it actually making a difference.
In order to box my control arms in order to make them stiffer, I made some caps to weld on.
Knowing what I know now, if I wasn't planning on welding those caps on in order to box the arms, I would have skipped the front bushings.
I might make another thread on how I did it when I'm all done.
 

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Seems like for $250+ between the cheap hydraulic press I linked previously plus this set of cups the offset rears should be zero trouble. The fronts as you said seem like they could be more trouble, maybe even more than it's worth but I'm not boxing my arms in. I'm the reviews someone said they used this and a cheap press to get large bushings out of their Audi control arms. Sounds familiar.

WINTOOLS 27 Pcs Universal Press & Pull Sleeve Kit Bush Bearing Removal Insertion Tool Set https://a.co/d/iZciCuw

I was thinking a piece of 2x8 wood with a 2-7/8" hole scribed and jigsawed into it would make a fine receiver. Might need two pieces to be deep enough. Thoughts?
 

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Seems like for $250+ between the cheap hydraulic press I linked previously plus this set of cups the offset rears should be zero trouble. The fronts as you said seem like they could be more trouble, maybe even more than it's worth but I'm not boxing my arms in. I'm the reviews someone said they used this and a cheap press to get large bushings out of their Audi control arms. Sounds familiar.

WINTOOLS 27 Pcs Universal Press & Pull Sleeve Kit Bush Bearing Removal Insertion Tool Set https://a.co/d/iZciCuw

I was thinking a piece of 2x8 wood with a 2-7/8" hole scribed and jigsawed into it would make a fine receiver. Might need two pieces to be deep enough. Thoughts?
This is a terrible time to not have red around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ooop, sorry for the late response. Problem with the wood idea is, the bushing is only supported on one end. The unsupported end will probably get wedged into the wood as you are pressing on it. I can send you the tool I made if you want. Just need a ball joint tool kit that you can borrow from advance and an impact wrench.
 

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Hey thanks for the offer, but I just picked up a 12 ton press and a set of bushing cups. Based on a YouTube video of a guy doing a first gen veloster control arm this will work with the fronts using the included threaded rods and the 38mm cup to press and 40-42mm cup as a receiver.

DAYUAN 27pc Universal Press and Pull Sleeve Kit Bush Bearing Removal Insertion Tool Set https://a.co/d/3PXcbvY

The rears would just require the 68mm cup to press either into a ~72mm receiver or the plates on the hydraulic press itself that have circular gaps. I'm going to give it a try this Friday when the chips arrive and the press is assembled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The ID of the front is 37.5mm. The tool to press those out will need to be slightly less than those measurements. If it comes with a 40 or 42mm ID cup to use as a receiver, that might work for the front. The issue with the front is, there's an edge on the bushing on the top that prevents you from pulling the old bushing into the receiver using those threaded rods. You will need to grind the edge off so the tool can pull the bushing out. Once you grind the edge off, a tool roughly 37mm will work to pull the bushing out.


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Regarding the rear, the ID of the control arm rear is 69.7mm. So maybe the 68mm cup to press and a 70mm to receive? You can possibly pull the rear bushing out the same way you plan on pulling the front and then return your 12 ton press... Save $. ;-)
And try to grab some photos while your at it. That tool looks like a massive time saver vs the nonsense that I have gone through.
 

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I'll take some pics. Maybe I'll setup the GoPro in time lapse and post to YouTube.

Returning a once-used tool seems like a real nice way to tempt karma and have the part explode under pressure right at crotch-height. May sell it, or keep it. We'll see how it goes and if I believe I'll ever have futures ideas for it.
 

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Dry fit now that the pressing elements are here. Unfortunately I misread the sizes and there isn't a pusher that will fit inside the control arm for the front but there is a perfect fit to receive and I do have an impact socket that is right on to push. The threaded rod will hold it in place while extracting and sweating the bushings.

Thinking this over, what impact will this control arm rotation have, if any, on your? I know that's the real fast way to destroy tires so I wanna make sure I time the alignment check appropriately urgent. Mentally, of shifting the knuckles forward this should effectively create or add toe out, right? Starting at zero toe right now.

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