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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been having this issue since my last oil change 3k miles ago. Mods are injen intake, boomba BOV and W1 catch can, boomba polyurthane transmission mount.
Only when in 1st gear the car does what feels like a misfire at 5-6k rpm. tThe bov goes off and car lurches then continues to climb rpm again until redline. This issue is driving me insane. So far i have reverted car to stock, checked sparked plugs, used an autel scanner to monitor misfire/rpm/boost pressure. I have been unable to locate any issues. This happens in all modes with traction control on or off, lsd in normal or sport. All other gears are fine and pull normally. It does'nt seem happen when flooring it in a turn just in a straight line, i usually start my first gear pulls at 15 or 20mph and it always does the stutter. Recently I got a check LSD message with code c1286 for the yaw rate sensor. I went to hyundai with both issues and they were more than useless. Just cleared the codes and said the car was fine. Has anyone been experiencing this with their veloster N Performance pack? Any suggestions on what to check next? Thanks!
 

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This may be a weird. Turn off traction control, completely . Go to a nice smooth parking lot, and pull the E brake. Punch it hard, burnout let the RPMs actually bounce off the rev limiter see if it does it. I bet there's no hesitation. This not a joke. Please let me know the results. Again I am not trolling you 馃憤
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I mean I've ripped it with traction control off in a wet tar parking lot and it seemed to bang rev limiter just fine, I'm all for trying to do a standstill but whats the point lol? If it works what would that tell me?
 

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I've been having this issue since my last oil change 3k miles ago. Mods are injen intake, boomba BOV and W1 catch can, boomba polyurthane transmission mount.
Only when in 1st gear the car does what feels like a misfire at 5-6k rpm. tThe bov goes off and car lurches then continues to climb rpm again until redline. This issue is driving me insane. So far i have reverted car to stock, checked sparked plugs, used an autel scanner to monitor misfire/rpm/boost pressure. I have been unable to locate any issues. This happens in all modes with traction control on or off, lsd in normal or sport. All other gears are fine and pull normally. It does'nt seem happen when flooring it in a turn just in a straight line, i usually start my first gear pulls at 15 or 20mph and it always does the stutter. Recently I got a check LSD message with code c1286 for the yaw rate sensor. I went to hyundai with both issues and they were more than useless. Just cleared the codes and said the car was fine. Has anyone been experiencing this with their veloster N Performance pack? Any suggestions on what to check next? Thanks!
I had a somewhat similar situation, only in 1 cylinder though, last week I was on my way home and realized even though I was in N mode I wasn't getting any pops or bangs at all, and whenever I let off throttle in 1st gear it kind of shuttered/jolted in a weird way, well fast forward to 2 days ago, car would almost feel like a fuel cut but not as hard as a fuel cut during full throttle pulls, misfire in cylinder 3 switched coilpacks between the cylinders and misfire didn't move, so looked at cylinder 3 spark plug and it was fouled BAD checked the others and it also seemed to be the case just not as bad for the other 3 cylinders, replaced all 4 spark plugs and everything is back to normal, throttle response is where it should be and now I have the pops and bangs back to normal again. Could be coilpacks or maybe even something the ECU is detecting that it doesn't like. Good luck brother
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had a similar issue at 10k miles before this started happening. Had a misfire cylinder 3, swapped the coil packs around and the misfire disappeared since then lol. At 18k miles now. I just checked my plugs and gapped them to .24 which seemed to help a little bit. Might try the hks m45xl but it seems like a waste at stock boost levels.
 

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I've been having this issue since my last oil change 3k miles ago. Mods are injen intake, boomba BOV and W1 catch can, boomba polyurethane transmission mount.
Only when in 1st gear the car does what feels like a misfire at 5-6k rpm. tThe bov goes off and car lurches then continues to climb rpm again until redline. This issue is driving me insane. So far i have reverted car to stock, checked sparked plugs, used an autel scanner to monitor misfire/rpm/boost pressure. I have been unable to locate any issues. This happens in all modes with traction control on or off, lsd in normal or sport. All other gears are fine and pull normally. It doesn't seem happen when flooring it in a turn just in a straight line, i usually start my first gear pulls at 15 or 20mph and it always does the stutter. Recently I got a check LSD message with code c1286 for the yaw rate sensor. I went to hyundai with both issues and they were more than useless. Just cleared the codes and said the car was fine. Has anyone been experiencing this with their veloster N Performance pack? Any suggestions on what to check next? Thanks!
Haven't has any codes at all. You stated you put everything back to stock, this is correct? Was there any difference in power delivery after pulling everything, except the lower motor mount bushings? Where do you live, you don't have to be specific? What octane fuel are you utilizing? Do you high pressure wash your engine regularly?

You might have one going bad or the insulator has a small crack and is arcing out on the cylinder head wall. First option will be to swap coil packs.
Things to do;

Since you'll be pulling the coil packs, also pull the plugs and take a look a the gaps themselves. They need to be gapped at .24. Make sure none are wet. If any are wet, replace them.

Pull each coil pack one at a time and inspect the insulators towers for any small white marks. This will indicate a small crack and arcing. If you do find one, have the dealership service replace it or do so on your own, keeping the original coil pack to give to the dealership for reimbursement.

Spray each coil tower plug connection, with dielectric grease and re-install.

Check the battery connections for tightness and no corrosion.

Check all the hoses to the Intake, making sure they're seated and tight. You know where the boost solenoid is, make sure all the hose and electrical connections are seated and tight , along with inspecting the hoses for any cut or leakage.

Take the car for a jaunt and see if the problem disappears. Be patient and do these thing first. Let us know how you fair. If it doesn't then we can move onto another area to check. The modification you've made, wouldn't cause this type of issue. So, you can eliminate them right off.
I had a somewhat similar situation, only in 1 cylinder though, last week I was on my way home and realized even though I was in N mode I wasn't getting any pops or bangs at all, and whenever I let off throttle in 1st gear it kind of shuttered/jolted in a weird way, well fast forward to 2 days ago, car would almost feel like a fuel cut but not as hard as a fuel cut during full throttle pulls, misfire in cylinder 3 switched coilpacks between the cylinders and misfire didn't move, so looked at cylinder 3 spark plug and it was fouled BAD checked the others and it also seemed to be the case just not as bad for the other 3 cylinders, replaced all 4 spark plugs and everything is back to normal, throttle response is where it should be and now I have the pops and bangs back to normal again. Could be coil packs or maybe even something the ECU is detecting that it doesn't like. Good luck brother
Your's sounds like a leaky fuel injector. Run the engine up to speed and stop. Pull the plugs one at a time and see if there is a wet one. If you find one wet, it's a leaky fuel injector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So An update on this issue. I replace all 4 tires and did an alignment. The issue seems to be almost gone after that for some reason but still happened occasionally. So I replace all spark plugs and gapped them to .024. Cleaned the coils and applied silicone to all connections. So far it's only happened once since then. I also have the Mac bov solenoid, boomba bov and injen intake installed. What was the issue? No idea, but its working now so alrighty then
 

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Haven't has any codes at all. You stated you put everything back to stock, this is correct? Was there any difference in power delivery after pulling everything, except the lower motor mount bushings? Where do you live, you don't have to be specific? What octane fuel are you utilizing? Do you high pressure wash your engine regularly?

You might have one going bad or the insulator has a small crack and is arcing out on the cylinder head wall. First option will be to swap coil packs.
Things to do;

Since you'll be pulling the coil packs, also pull the plugs and take a look a the gaps themselves. They need to be gapped at .24. Make sure none are wet. If any are wet, replace them.

Pull each coil pack one at a time and inspect the insulators towers for any small white marks. This will indicate a small crack and arcing. If you do find one, have the dealership service replace it or do so on your own, keeping the original coil pack to give to the dealership for reimbursement.

Spray each coil tower plug connection, with dielectric grease and re-install.

Check the battery connections for tightness and no corrosion.

Check all the hoses to the Intake, making sure they're seated and tight. You know where the boost solenoid is, make sure all the hose and electrical connections are seated and tight , along with inspecting the hoses for any cut or leakage.

Take the car for a jaunt and see if the problem disappears. Be patient and do these thing first. Let us know how you fair. If it doesn't then we can move onto another area to check. The modification you've made, wouldn't cause this type of issue. So, you can eliminate them right off.

Your's sounds like a leaky fuel injector. Run the engine up to speed and stop. Pull the plugs one at a time and see if there is a wet one. If you find one wet, it's a leaky fuel injector.
Absolutely unrelated question.
I had bad coil packs on my Elantra 17. 5 months ago I went to the dealership and they changed coil pack 3 because of misfire and CEL. A week ago coil packs on cyl 2 and 4 failed as well. I couldn't take it to the dealership with 2 cyls down so I changed 1, 2 and 4 on my own. Is it worth trying to get reimbursed for the bad coil packs I changed, since the dealership is 50 miles away
 

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that happened to me from cheap gas once. it taught me that this turbo engine is picky for the high octane stuff.
put some good octane booster in the tank and see if the problem goes away
 
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