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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
What a crammed space to try and work in! I read on a Reddit post that you just "pop off the connector at the top of the accelerator pedal", but despite my best efforts to pull on the connector upwards from the connector and not the cables, I couldn't for the life of me get it out. Is there a video or shop manual I can look at to make sure I'm going about this the right way? I'd hate to break the connector and deal with a gas pedal that doesn't work.

I got the Sprint Booster just to play around with throttle mapping (not happy with the stock throttle map relatively to my tuned ECU ND Miata which I alternate with all the time), and see if their latest which they claim is compatible with the 2019 Veloster works with our N's. I preferred the Sprint Booster over something like the BMS Pedal Tuner because if you figure out which setting works for you and have no need to switch settings you can completely remove the selector from the harness and have it be super discreet; that, plus valet mode which sounds like it's going to be very useful in the future.
 

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891 Posts
Do you already have a piggy back for a tune? If not, that will change the mapping for the throttle too. It's not as extreme as a pedal box but at least you can change it on the fly with something like the Scorcher. You CANNOT do that with the Sprint Booster once the car is moving. Just something to think about.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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Premium Member
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65 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I definitely considered it, but I didn't feel my VN needed more power. Plus it's not CARB exempt and I'd have to send it to someone I know out of state to send it to me, plus it's $250 extra ($420 vs $170), plus spark plugs... Didn't feel worth the hassle unless I keep it long enough and decide I'd like more power to play with.

My primary complaint with it has been the throttle map. Is it really true you can't change the Sprint Booster setting once moving? I know you can't change it while your foot is pressing the accelerator pedal, because that leads to an instant change in the throttle pedal value, at a pace your foot couldn't possibly have achieved, sent to the ECU, which confuses it, leads it to think the sensor has malfunctioned, and sends it into limp mode. But if you're coasting or stopped with the engine running, and the throttle signal is 0, changing the pedal tune setting should be totally fine, because it would still be zero. Am I missing something? In any case, like I said, my goal would be to find a setting I like and remove the selector, rather than keep messing with the tune on the fly. I have the drive modes for that.

Still, appreciate the suggestion!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did it! It was all a matter of repositioning myself on the driver's seat (both legs out the door) rather than trying to crawl my way into the footwell head first. That allowed me to use my right (good) hand and arm, and after I studied the clip and connector a bit on the harness, I managed to pull it off and install the Sprint Booster! Such an easy process, once you manage to pull the original throttle connector out.

The selector is tiny and super discreet. When it's off there's no lights and the LED screen is off, you wouldn't even know it was there driving in the dark. Even with it on, it's out of my line of sight and neither the light or screen are bright enough to distract me. Plus it's so small, as you can see in the photos below it's the size of the temperature knob. I don't think I'm going to take it out until it's time for a service appointment, and even then I'm happy to know I won't have to uninstall the entire throttle pedal harness, and that the selector itself is easily removable while the harness stays on, maintaining your last setting.

All in all, really happy with my first few drives with it. You're sacrificing some modulation range for responsiveness, but I appreciate how it now feels more consistent in response with my tuned Miata, and that I don't have to bury my foot on the floor to get the car to unleash the beast. Plus, I didn't find like I lost enough precision on the early range of the pedal to make driving at low speeds jerky or anything. You could have it on Sport and daily it, be in traffic, all of it just fine. But, given how easy it is to change modes on the fly, you don't have to, unless you really hate the way the connector looks and want it to leave it at home. Rev matching and heel-toe also become easier as the throttle responds faster and blips harder without requiring you to stretch the motion too much.

And like I said, Ghost, as long as your foot is completely off the throttle, you can change between all modes on the fly, car on and moving and everything. No need to stop or turn off the car or anything like that.

Excuse the shoddy picture quality, it got dark by the time I was done installing it and placing it and bunching up the cable and tucking it out of the way. I can take more photos if anyone's interested.

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3316
 
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