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So it looks like the hard reset of the battery might have fixed it. I drove around town all day today with the BSD on. Single lane and double lane roads and I had 1 misread on the driver side. Compared to before this is awesome as before it was constantly wrong/annoying. I will say this... initially it was okay but then got better to the point where it is now. Not sure how this system works and if it's improving it's calibration as I drive or if i'm placebo'd now. Will someone else try this and let me know what they experience?
Hard reset:
Disconnect Battery
Press and hold start button for 10 seconds to drain system
reconnect batter and drive
Good idea. I will give this a thorough test when it stops raining. Fingers crossed as this would be an easy work around once a year. Hopefully it works consistently cause it's kind of an all or nothing kind of thing lol
 

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Well thats good to know It would suck if the fix was to remove my mud flaps. I like the way it looks with one installed and protects my paint from rock chips
Yeah been thinking about it too. I like how it looks too and as you said it protects the paint. But on the other hand, it feels a bit silly on a tarmac only car that also isn't associated with rally. Thats just me though, I'm not judging
 

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Yeah been thinking about it too. I like how it looks too and as you said it protects the paint. But on the other hand, it feels a bit silly on a tarmac only car that also isn't associated with rally. Thats just me though, I'm not judging
Keeps more salt spray off my car and the Veloster itself isn't associated with rally, but Hyundai has a ton of WRC presence with the i20!

(I'm too big of a rally fan to care - if I have to choose, the mud flaps are staying 🤣)

Going to try the battery reset tomorrow, too - but weirdly, the last few days I haven't gotten any false alarms, even driving the same route at roughly the same time of day that was false alarming 100% the past couple weeks, so it seems weirdly inconsistent for me. Weather was different, but I haven't paid close enough attention to comment on that definitively.
 

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Well with mudflaps on using stock wheel I don't have any issues. To me this seems exclusively to be the winter tires and the non OEM wheel it is on.

Removing the OEM flaps I got is not a solution also I live somewhere where the salt spray can really sand and chip the paint.

I will try the battery reset when I have a chance though that's kind of a janky solution and I don't understand why the car isn't already recalibrating and reinitializing the system on every start-up. Some systems tend to do that, modern ECUs are advanced enough to do this.
 

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Keeps more salt spray off my car and the Veloster itself isn't associated with rally, but Hyundai has a ton of WRC presence with the i20!

(I'm too big of a rally fan to care - if I have to choose, the mud flaps are staying 🤣)

Going to try the battery reset tomorrow, too - but weirdly, the last few days I haven't gotten any false alarms, even driving the same route at roughly the same time of day that was false alarming 100% the past couple weeks, so it seems weirdly inconsistent for me. Weather was different, but I haven't paid close enough attention to comment on that definitively.
True, really the only thing that matters is if you like it or not 👌

Just tried the battery reset and have confirmed that it did not work. First, it was ID'ing cars parked on the street as in my blindspot, which is technically right I guess, it's only supposed to alert on moving cars there.

After I got out to a 4 lane road though, it went back to staying lit (in the bad way) most of the time.

Next time I think I will try the battery reset somewhere I can immediately get onto a 4 lane road. Otherwise I think this is completely on Hyundai. Man what a drag.
 

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True, really the only thing that matters is if you like it or not 👌

Just tried the battery reset and have confirmed that it did not work. First, it was ID'ing cars parked on the street as in my blindspot, which is technically right I guess, it's only supposed to alert on moving cars there.

After I got out to a 4 lane road though, it went back to staying lit (in the bad way) most of the time.

Next time I think I will try the battery reset somewhere I can immediately get onto a 4 lane road. Otherwise I think this is completely on Hyundai. Man what a drag.
This confirms what I thought it is unusual for such a system to do some sort of special calibration purely because the battery power is cycled. Usually when the car is started and the ECU boots it already does some sort of initialization and calibration and if there is a fault the car will start throwing errors. Saying this as someone in the industry. I don't claim to know how the system on the VN is exactly implemented but it just doesn't sound right that unplugging and hard power cycling the car will fix the issue.
 

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This confirms what I thought it is unusual for such a system to do some sort of special calibration purely because the battery power is cycled. Usually when the car is started and the ECU boots it already does some sort of initialization and calibration and if there is a fault the car will start throwing errors. Saying this as someone in the industry. I don't claim to know how the system on the VN is exactly implemented but it just doesn't sound right that unplugging and hard power cycling the car will fix the issue.
Yeah I ended up getting some more misreads again yesterday. Coming from the tech industry this 'usually' works lol. Fingers crossed that we initiate a recall from the reports made though but not sure if it will even warrant an investigation and I'm honestly not hopeful.
 

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Yeah I ended up getting some more misreads again yesterday. Coming from the tech industry this 'usually' works lol. Fingers crossed that we initiate a recall from the reports made though but not sure if it will even warrant an investigation and I'm honestly not hopeful.
Well that sucks..I was going to try the reset today but I guess I won't need to anymore.

Yea we need alot more people to complain and honestly I feel like we are the few that care about this system to function. I have heard most people disable all the tech features like lanes keeping assist and collision warning so I'm sure they are disabling the BSD and calling it a day.

I personally like the fact the car comes equipped with it. And love the option to disable Incase I don't want it interfering. But since we all paid a small price increase for this tech to work, I'd like it to work or refund me for the increase and I will live without it. At least I got the other benefits for the 21-22 VN. Like the seats 😁.
 

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This confirms what I thought it is unusual for such a system to do some sort of special calibration purely because the battery power is cycled. Usually when the car is started and the ECU boots it already does some sort of initialization and calibration and if there is a fault the car will start throwing errors. Saying this as someone in the industry. I don't claim to know how the system on the VN is exactly implemented but it just doesn't sound right that unplugging and hard power cycling the car will fix the issue.
I'm a software engineer myself in the tech sector and the battery reset is the most likely way available to us to force the blindspot system into recalibration mode as there doesn't seem to be another way (toggle switch, ignition, head unit engineer mode). I would think as well that it should recalibrate upon system start up but I know nothing about radar systems or the programming of this particular implementation. So, here's hoping.
 

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I'm a software engineer myself in the tech sector and the battery reset is the most likely way available to us to force the blindspot system into recalibration mode as there doesn't seem to be another way (toggle switch, ignition, head unit engineer mode). I would think as well that it should recalibrate upon system start up but I know nothing about radar systems or the programming of this particular implementation. So, here's hoping.
To add to the discussion, supposedly the radar sensors point rearward towards the left and right corners of the car. I disassembled my BMW F10 5-series before and the radars are just behind the bumper near the left/right corners of the car. Most radars are configured this way so it baffles me how a different tire and rim combination can just throw this off, even if there are some variances in the geometry of the wheel. This should not even be a calibration issue. Unless they placed the radar someplace strange with obstructions and have to use some sort of an algorithm to filter out the readings.
 

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To add to the discussion, supposedly the radar sensors point rearward towards the left and right corners of the car. I disassembled my BMW F10 5-series before and the radars are just behind the bumper near the left/right corners of the car. Most radars are configured this way so it baffles me how a different tire and rim combination can just throw this off, even if there are some variances in the geometry of the wheel. This should not even be a calibration issue. Unless they placed the radar someplace strange with obstructions and have to use some sort of an algorithm to filter out the readings.
It may be as simple as the rear wheels are closer to the rear of the car. My gut says they used a static calibration for this closeness of the OEM wheels and tires to filter out interference in the return signal. Since it was for a mid cycle refresh of a low volume car. Just a guess though.
 

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I just dropped my car off at the dealership for them to install a new radar system. I'll update you guys when I get the car back.
 

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I just dropped my car off at the dealership for them to install a new radar system. I'll update you guys when I get the car back.
Cannot wait for the update lol. My engineer friend said it's gotta be something related to relative threshold of vibration,ride height, etc. Only possible fixes would be the mounting of radars or software update to allow a greater degree of variance for the sensors. Overall, like we have all been thinking...makes no sense that they would put this system on the VN and have these issues while other Hyundai's don't have the same problem. Most likely they do not share the same Part (radar sensor) or are controlled/programmed differently which would naturally lead to the actual software not allowing the correct degree of deviation/variance.
 

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Cannot wait for the update lol. My engineer friend said it's gotta be something related to relative threshold of vibration,ride height, etc. Only possible fixes would be the mounting of radars or software update to allow a greater degree of variance for the sensors. Overall, like we have all been thinking...makes no sense that they would put this system on the VN and have these issues while other Hyundai's don't have the same problem. Most likely they do not share the same Part (radar sensor) or are controlled/programmed differently which would naturally lead to the actual software not allowing the correct degree of deviation/variance.
I too am eager for the update. I am a engineer myself and honestly have concluded this can only be fixed by a software update. To allow, like you said, a lower tolerance level then what it is set to. It must be very sensitive to detect the slight difference between stock and after market tires. Anyways I'm scheduled to bring in my car on the 23rd and they said they will run some diagnostic so not sure what they will concluded from it. Maybe if you guys find a fix I can point my dealership in the right direction when I drop my car off.
 

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I just dropped my car off at the dealership for them to install a new radar system. I'll update you guys when I get the car back.
I am assuming when you say new radar system, you mean the same exact system just brand new. I asked this because sometimes a batch of systems manufactured at a certain time could be defective and car manufacturers will end up recalling those systems after some time to be upgraded to a completely new system.

Anyways best of luck
 

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IMO I think this ^ will bare out in the end. I also believe, changing the angle of the sensor has much to do with the problem as well. Most all who are having difficulty, have changed wheels/tires to 18” & w/ wider tires combinations.

We have already established this thru owner input. Replacing the wheel/tire combinations back to the OEM unit will solve the issue.👍🇺🇸
 

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The dealership just told me that they replaced the right rear radar sensor and....drum roll....it still gives false positives all the time. They called Hyundai tech support again and they said that the right radar sensor actually runs through the left sensor and they now recommend replacing the left sensor as well (which of course is on back order). They recalibrated it multiple times and said he drove it over 17 miles to see if they could get it working properly, but to no avail.

At this point, I don't think we can blame the dealerships for not knowing how to fix this. They seem to just be the messengers as Hyundai doesn't know what to do.

N_guy_, they just told me a new radar, they didn't clarify if it was the same model number or not. My guess is it is identical to what was already in there since it's still having the same problem.
 

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The dealership just told me that they replaced the right rear radar sensor and....drum roll....it still gives false positives all the time. They called Hyundai tech support again and they said that the right radar sensor actually runs through the left sensor and they now recommend replacing the left sensor as well (which of course is on back order). They recalibrated it multiple times and said he drove it over 17 miles to see if they could get it working properly, but to no avail.

At this point, I don't think we can blame the dealerships for not knowing how to fix this. They seem to just be the messengers as Hyundai doesn't know what to do.

N_guy_, they just told me a new radar, they didn't clarify if it was the same model number or not. My guess is it is identical to what was already in there since it's still having the same problem.
Well I fear the same outcome will happen with the left sensor. They will replace it and still not fix the issue. I don't understand why Hyundai tech does not put 2 and 2 together and say seems like a software issue and not hardware. They need to be on the these forms lol. They need to stop throwing parts at it and look into software recalibration.

I don't know how the engineers at Hyundai has managed to software wheel lock the OEM tires with the BSD system.

Cause if this is true that the system is that sensitive to slight changes in tire. Then that means when the tire thread of 21's in warmer climate wears down it will also cause the BSD system to malfunction. So no worries guys if there is not enough people complaining now, there soon will be as I heard these OEM tires are great but thread life isn't due to there stickiness. So lots of people will soon have low enough threads to cause the BSD to malfunction. How long does it take for the pzeros wear a mm of thread?.
 

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So my right side blind spot detector in my mirror is on about 50% of the time. Even when I'm lane removed from the edge of the road and no cars in sight.

Really annoying when I go to change lanes and the thing yells at me. Anyway, where is the emitter for this? And is the receiver the same? I wonder if it just needs cleaned?
I had my 2022 N picked up couple weeks ago, the passenger side BSM already stayed on when I left dealership. Dealer had reset the system but problem remains unchanged. They said they have to ordet a new sensor........
 
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