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Rear sway bar install on jack stands

10K views 39 replies 10 participants last post by  Nuggets88 
#1 · (Edited)
There is already information out on installing a rear sway bar, so I’ll share my experience from the perspective of a DIY-er on jack stands.

Found it’s easiest to remove the stock rear bar with endlinks attached, and fish it out through the space opened up by unbolting the muffler from mid-pipe.

Endlink bolts: 12mm
Sway bar bushing brackets: 14mm
Exhaust nuts: 17mm

I installed a Whiteline 22mm rear bar with Whiteline adjustable endlinks. The Whiteline instructions say to set up the adjustable endlinks to match the factory length. That’s very roughly about 2.75” by my measurements.

After trial and error, found the best way to handle it was to set up and install the endlinks with the bar off the car. Otherwise, it’s difficult to tighten the endlinks on the car because the coil spring gets in the way of getting an Allen key in the endlink bolt in order to keep it from spinning when tightening the nut. A pass-through socket is also helpful here.

Of course, remember to torque everything with the car on the ground, or in my case, I just put floor jacks under each lower control arm to simulate the suspension being loaded.

Whiteline endlink nuts: 19mm
Whiteline endlinks: 6mm Allen
Sway bar brackets: 35 lb-ft
Sway bar endlinks: 27 lb-ft

(Note that the lateral locks should be closer to the sway bar mounts, but I have them spaced like this upon initial installation in order to see how the bar settles before they are moved closer to the mounts.)

4675
4676
4677
4678
4679
4680

I like to use a paint pen on the fasteners once everything is torqued down so it’s easy to see if anything has loosened.

Hope this helps the next person who does this mod.
 
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#5 ·
There is already information out on installing a rear sway bar, so I’ll share my experience from the perspective of a DIY-er on jack stands.

Found it’s easiest to remove the stock rear bar with endlinks attached, and fish it out through the space opened up by unbolting the muffler from mid-pipe.

Endlink bolts are 12mm
Sway bar bushing brackets are 14mm
Exhaust nuts are 17mm

I installed a Whiteline 22mm rear bar with Whiteline adjustable endlinks. The Whiteline instructions say to set up the adjustable endlinks to match the factory length. That’s just short of 2.75” by my measurements.

After trial and error, found the best way to handle it was to set up and install the endlinks with the bar off the car. Otherwise, it’s difficult to tighten the endlinks on the car because the coil spring gets in the way of getting an Allen key in the endlink bolt in order to keep it from spinning when tightening the nut. The Whiteline nuts are 19mm. Of course, remember to torque everything with the car on the ground, or in my case, I just put floor jacks under each lower control arm to simulate the suspension being loaded.

Hope this helps the next person who does this mod.
Thank you for this @Chuckable . Very informative and helpful. What are you goals with the bar? Also @Fauxfreshness what are your goals with the bar?

-JE
 
#8 ·
Well, I’m probably not the best person to ask that of. LOL While I have around -1.8* of camber up front due to the Eibachs, I also autocrossed AWD and FWD cars almost exclusively (with the odd Camaro, Corvette, and M3 that might be around). And I learned left foot braking due to severe knock-back issues with hub flange deflection on my Subarus, which I’m thankful works on the N when you disable “braking priority.”

The long, rambling response is a precursor to this: I learned not to overdrive front tires. It’s also why I’m fixated on LSDs for everything, especially FWD cars. The only time I’ve really noticed significant push is when accelerating and trying to wind in more steering angle than I should, to see what would happen.

Once you get down to -1.5* or “more” (less, really) the front end clamps hard in spirited driving. I can get the rear to rotate in the various turnarounds we have around here, which is why I went for the adjustable rear bar and the suspension programmer: vertical compliance with load transfer split between them. 😎
 
#9 ·
Your language is on point when describing things - so much better than mine. Thank you for the stories. I appreciate the anecdotes - they are very helpful.

Do you trail brake? I have noticed the car rotates well in tight corners w that method. I must admit at time I laod the front tires too hard just because I love trying to outbreak myself - even though all my friends hold on to door or clamp on to the seats!!!

The only time I’ve really noticed significant push is when accelerating and trying to wind in more steering angle than I should, to see what would happen. (Love this bro) - nothing like toeing the line.

Speaking of toe? Are you running toe in or toe out at F and R?

Lastly - on the mando ecs controller try this and tell me what you think of it.

Front Ride - 15
Rear Ride - 30
Front Handling - 60
Rear Handling - 80

Thanks Brother,
-JE
 
#12 ·
I haven’t had a chance to really adjust the Mando ECS controller yet. I’ve had it a year and just hit 4,750 miles this evening. LOL

Trail braking is almost always useful in most corners and surface conditions. Oddly, if you’re going through a rather sharp offset, there are times where just a sharp throttle lift while turning in can get the rear to slide just enough to aim for the next apex. Having an LSD that stays locked for too long in a FWD or AWD platform can make it plow, so the smart LSD (or almost any 1-way unit) will alleviate that condition.

For toe, I run 0 all the way around. On my WRX I had these fantastic PDE camber plates that made quick, consistent camber changes super easy. And since the tie rod ends were in front of the spindles, they would toe out when dumping all the camber. I ran -2.5* on the fronts when daily driving, and at events it would drop to -6.25* or so with a rather large amount of toe out. I never had issues with chewing up tires at events again, even on concrete.
 
#14 ·
I haven’t had a chance to really adjust the Mando ECS controller yet. I’ve had it a year and just hit 4,750 miles this evening. LOL

Trail braking is almost always useful in most corners and surface conditions. Oddly, if you’re going through a rather sharp offset, there are times where just a sharp throttle lift while turning in can get the rear to slide just enough to aim for the next apex. Having an LSD that stays locked for too long in a FWD or AWD platform can make it plow, so the smart LSD (or almost any 1-way unit) will alleviate that condition.

For toe, I run 0 all the way around. On my WRX I had these fantastic PDE camber plates that made quick, consistent camber changes super easy. And since the tie rod ends were in front of the spindles, they would toe out when dumping all the camber. I ran -2.5* on the fronts when daily driving, and at events it would drop to -6.25* or so with a rather large amount of toe out. I never had issues with chewing up tires at events again, even on concrete.
Awesome. Thank you brother.

-JE
 
#20 ·
#16 ·
I'd put those lateral locks closer up against the bushings. Those are to prevent the sway bar from moving side to side. You can either position them both on the inside or the outside of the bushings. I have mine as close to the bushing as humanly possible. They actually touch the bushing. Nice write up btw. I'm sure others will find it quite helpful. Thank you.

Best regards,

-Mike
 
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#18 ·
See, you know more than I do. lol... :D The rear bar is one of the best handling mods I have done to the VN. Turn in is even better. Whiteline makes good $hit!

Br,

-Mike
 
#21 ·
I have a Whiteline rear sway bar on my Genesis Coupe. It helped to solve the understeer problem. I am not yet sold that I need this on the VN. Time will tell, but again I value the thoughts from the people who have installed these and the feedback we all get from the mod after installation.
 
#22 ·
I went with this bar based on the recommendation of Jeff at Genracer for use in HPDE and some autocross for my otherwise stock suspension (except camber bolts) as a fairly novice driver. Having just finished the install this afternoon, I only took a short drive but immediately noticed a difference in rear roll stiffness. Did not push the car hard enough on the street to see if it has changed the understeer/oversteer balance.
 
#25 ·
Ya, take a look at my build thread. It has prices reflecting each mod. Think i'm at like 6k or something like that. lol.... Modding is a disease I tell ya. Ha, ha, ha...... :p

Best regards,

-Mike
 
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#30 ·
Sorry to revive a dead thread, but does anywhere know where I can buy the OEM bolts to connect the sway bar to end links. I was installing my whiteline bar today and the bolt snapped before I even got to the 27ft/lbs and I have an event this weekend so I am in a bit of a scramble at the moment lol
 
#36 · (Edited)
I take it the bolt is broke off at the shank level with the sways end? If so you're going to have to;

1. Center punch the broken shank.

2. Drill it with a bit 1/3 the diameter of the shank.

3. Use an extractor and remove the broken shank.

4. Then us the appropriate size tap to chase the threads out.

If the shank is broken off long enough, put the bar into a vise, clamping with with two pieces of wood, remove it with a vice grip and chase the threads with a appropriate size tap.
 
#39 · (Edited)
Good post, thanks for the details--so good I didn't need YouTube. My 2021 though had 19mm exhaust nuts. A flat blade screw driver easily prepped off the otherwise stubborn exhaust hanger. Less than an hour from jacks up to jacks down. And the 22mm white line with OEM links at the soft setting does make the rear more alive and helps keep the front level even in the suspension's softest setting. Eco mode is fun now with no other suspension mods.😂
 
#40 ·
Any one tried the Whiteline End Link with the Whiteline 22mm Sway bar at the stiffer hole?

It fits super easily in the softer hole but is a nightmare to line it up in the stiffer hole. Wondering if the SPL (with it's double bearing) might make it easier.

Any suggests for those who were successful mounting in the stiffer hole
 
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