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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was not really sure which section to start this discussion under. But I thought that members who work on upgrading their suspension would know.
Hyundai does not show the location to lift the front or rear of the car, usually manufactures show a point on the front engine/suspension cross member.
Under another discussion someone discussed a method to lift one side of the car and place a axle stand under the inner sill and then jack the other side. They also said to lift the whole of the front of the car using the engine cross member. I thought to myself lets play safe and jack each side of the car on the know jack point.
Anyway, I lifted the passenger side and placed the axle stand under the inner sill and then did the other side.
Changed the engine oil and filter and then raised the drivers side and removed the axle stand. When I went to the passenger side to jack it up and remove the axle stand, I noticed that the back passenger wheel was off the ground.
I cannot only guess that with the axle stand being placed on the passenger side first and then going round and jacking the drivers side, that the passenger side pivoted on the axle stand and compressed the passenger side rear suspension.
Does this seem feasible or has someone else had the same problem.
I am thinking about going back to my normal method of lifting the front of the car with one lift point in the middle of the engine/suspension crossmember.
Is this the common method and is the crossmember strong enough. The photos on another oil change discussion did show the crossmember, while it was on a workshop four point lift jack, the crossmember did look pretty solid.
Is it correct that the method to lift the rear of the car is to use two jacks under the suspension.
Thanks Dave
 

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I've been searching for an answer to this question since I got my N 12k miles ago. No one seems to want to commit to lifting from the center of the front subframe.idk. I have lifted one side at a time, both wheels off the ground, from just inside the pinch weld while changing out wheels/tires but have never had both side up at one time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've been searching for an answer to this question since I got my N 12k miles ago. No one seems to want to commit to lifting from the center of the front subframe.idk. I have lifted one side at a time, both wheels off the ground, from just inside the pinch weld while changing out wheels/tires but have never had both side up at one time.
If you look at this thread under "Engine and Technical Discussion" and then "DIY Oil Change". There are two methods which people have used to change the oil, the first guy just lifts up the drivers side. I guess doing two lifts on pinch welds.
Lower down on the thread a guy has the car up on a proper workshop car lift, but he shows (see photo) the points on where to jack and place axle stands.
I am not sure whether to use the first method (same as yours) or start using the engine/suspension crossmember.
I could ring Hyundai, but based on experience of phoning any manufacturers head office, they usually say to go to the dealer and I generally do not get an answer from them. Dave
 

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This happens because it's a short chassis that is fairly stiff. I lift both the front and rear of the car on each side from one jack point on the side of the car, put both stands on that side then go do the other side. The only thing you have to watch for is that jack is not pulling the car towards you, which just takes making sure the jacks wheels are lined up to go in the correct direction before jacking the side that isn't lifted up.

Next time I put the car up I'll get some pictures as I do so.
 

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With this car going around a corner too fast can lift one of the tires. Quirky is right.... I use the pinch welds. I raise the front end at the same time with 2 jacks and then put the jack stands on the front most pinch weld area. (Few inches behind my mudflaps) Works great for me and no lift on the tires since both go up at the same time.

Best regards,

-Mike
 
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My method for lifting the car is this and it requires two jacks, one can be small, the other needs to be a long, low profile jack:
0) Pull the e-braked and put chocks behind the rear wheels
1) Lift one side at the front sill a few inches with the small jack
2) Get the long, low profile jack under the subframe behind where the rear motor mount attaches.
3) Lift the car to desired height.
4) Remove small jack and replace with jack stands on both sides.

In my experience, any unibody car can be lifted by pretty much any point on the front or rear subframes (or even control arms but that's riskier due to instability and I don't recommend it). I've lifted my VN by the front and rear subframes at least a dozen times and had no issues. I also lifted my Elantra N-Line (same chassis as VN) many times this way without incident.
 

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If you look at this thread under "Engine and Technical Discussion" and then "DIY Oil Change". There are two methods which people have used to change the oil,
Yea, I was reading through that one yesterday when I saw this thread.
 

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My Genesis has a front cross-member that you can lift from. I use that for transmission fluid changes only. An oil change is I lift one side at the pinch welds, place a jack stand nearby and then do the other side. The Genesis has both tires off the ground due to chassis stiffness too. In my experience, when a car has the nose in the air you get more oil out of it during the drain. That has been true for years and on different makes. I don't see this car as any different than my Genesis. This winter it will be up on four jack stands to prevent flat spots on my tires during hibernation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My Genesis has a front cross-member that you can lift from. I use that for transmission fluid changes only. An oil change is I lift one side at the pinch welds, place a jack stand nearby and then do the other side. The Genesis has both tires off the ground due to chassis stiffness too. In my experience, when a car has the nose in the air you get more oil out of it during the drain. That has been true for years and on different makes. I don't see this car as any different than my Genesis. This winter it will be up on four jack stands to prevent flat spots on my tires during hibernation.
It seems that your method of changing the engine oil is similar to the way I did it a couple of days ago. The only difference is that I put the jack stands (in England they are axle stands) under the inner sills, this was due to my seeing the photo which showed the inners sills in the green circles. Going under the pinch welds would provide a little more stability because they are closer to the edge of the car. But the car was really stable using the inner sills.
A question on your method of changing the transmission oil (I am not close to that yet). Do you put four jack stands under the car so that you keep the car horizontal, so the oil level will be the same level as when you are driving the car on the road. Thanks Dave
 

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A question on your method of changing the transmission oil (I am not close to that yet). Do you put four jack stands under the car so that you keep the car horizontal, so the oil level will be the same level as when you are driving the car on the road. Thanks Dave
I've changed the transmission oil in this car twice and you can't fully drain it with just the front elevated. All four corners need to be in the air and level. I actually drained it with the front elevated, then I raised the rear higher than the front for a few minutes, then I set it level and just let it sit and drip for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've changed the transmission oil in this car twice and you can't fully drain it with just the front elevated. All four corners need to be in the air and level. I actually drained it with the front elevated, then I raised the rear higher than the front for a few minutes, then I set it level and just let it sit and drip for a while.
Thank you, that is useful to know when I get round to doing it. Dave
 

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It seems that your method of changing the engine oil is similar to the way I did it a couple of days ago. The only difference is that I put the jack stands (in England they are axle stands) under the inner sills, this was due to my seeing the photo which showed the inners sills in the green circles. Going under the pinch welds would provide a little more stability because they are closer to the edge of the car. But the car was really stable using the inner sills.
A question on your method of changing the transmission oil (I am not close to that yet). Do you put four jack stands under the car so that you keep the car horizontal, so the oil level will be the same level as when you are driving the car on the road. Thanks Dave
I was referring to my Genesis Coupe which has an auto. My wife pushed me into the auto so the little one would not learn how to drive stick from dad. The Genesis Coupe has a dicey manual, so this was not a bad choice anyway. In fact, a "sealed auto" cough cough. It is up to drain and then fill, but must be level to perform the leveling procedure once it has reached the proper temperature. From what I can tell on the N, I would first remove the panel under the engine bay. I would likely start the drain nose-up but move the car to the level position to ensure as much comes out as possible. I would put the drain nut back on and add fluid while the car is level from on top. That would mean removing the air box. Pretty simple. As I think through this I would only need to have one side up to remove the drain nut/bolt after I remove the panel under the engine. I would have two jack stands and the car would be up and even before removing that panel. I like things simple, but safe. A bit of a hassle, but putting the car up on four jack stands is also a hassle. Four stands does make sense too. I will see when I get there. I have not even had my first engine oil change yet.
 
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