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The bushings will calm down significantly after a few thousand miles! It's pretty awesome how much of a difference it makes huh?! :)

It makes a huge difference. The vibrations seem to get less and less as I put miles on it. Much better pick up that's for sure. Shifts are much more confident too.

Br,

-Mike
 

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I received my mount yesterday! ! Hopefully I can get my brother to put it on today, but it looks like rain here in ohio!!
 

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Ya, it's extremely easy. 3 bolts to remove and 4 bolts on the new one and w-la. It's on! On the new one make sure you attach the rear of the mount first or you will not be able to attach the middle bolt. I tightened the rear bolts first then the front bolt and then the middle bolt. Rear bolts get torqued to about 50 ft lbs. the front and middle bolts between 80 and 90 ft lbs. Just take your time and don't be afraid. The hardest part is breaking the front bolt free. Good luck Padawan! lol...

Br,

-Mike
 

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Simply, allows all available power from the powertrain to be put to the road, without loss from wheel hop. Virtually eliminates wheel hop altogether. It will enhance all engine hp modifications or power adders.
 

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The bushings will calm down significantly after a few thousand miles! It's pretty awesome how much of a difference it makes huh?! /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

It makes a huge difference. The vibrations seem to get less and less as I put miles on it. Much better pick up that's for sure. Shifts are much more confident too.

Br,

-Mike
Ghost, you had replaced the bushings in the stock RMM before you got this one, correct? If so, how much of a difference did you notice from stock, to upgraded bushing in the stock RMM, to the Boomba RMM?

This RMM looks like an amazingly well engineered piece of kit, but I daily drive my N, and I spend a lot of time driving for work. I’m hesitant to pull the trigger on this just because I’d hate to ruin the ride of my car by increasing the vibration too much.
 

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3 bolts to remove and 4 bolts to put on?
So, you don't need to remove anything else on this car like the splash guard to get to it?
I was watching other videos for different cars and they had to remove splash guard and other parts to get to it.
 

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The RMM is not covered by anything. You can easily get to the bolts. Just use some long closed end box wrenches and you won't have any problems. They are 14mm, 17mm, and 18mm. Hope this helps?

Br,

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #53
3 bolts to remove and 4 bolts to put on?
So, you don't need to remove anything else on this car like the splash guard to get to it?
I was watching other videos for different cars and they had to remove splash guard and other parts to get to it.
The splash sheild is the only thing you should have to remove
 

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If you use closed end box wrenches you do not have to remove that shield. I have done it about 3 or 4 times already. lol... It's an easy short-cut.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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I had the car up on the ramps today to do this and was pleasantly surprised to see that you can access the part without taking off the splash guard. I was then horrified to realize that I could not torque anything because my torque wrench was too long. Decided to go to the store and get a smaller wrench before doing this thing. Gonna be a this weekend, task, for like the 4th weekend in a row.
 

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I had the car up on the ramps today to do this and was pleasantly surprised to see that you can access the part without taking off the splash guard. I was then horrified to realize that I could not torque anything because my torque wrench was too long. Decided to go to the store and get a smaller wrench before doing this thing. Gonna be a this weekend, task, for like the 4th weekend in a row.
Literally ran into the same issue. I really wanted to just wing it, but figured it's probably worth the $20 at Harbor to get a smaller torque wrench... :mad:
 

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Well, when I viewed the Boomba video on page one they didn't use a torque wrench on their install. I figured if I used some long closed end box wrenches I could get the torque extremely close to where it needs to be so I did just that. Worked like a charm.

Br,

-Mike
 

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Literally ran into the same issue. I really wanted to just wing it, but figured it's probably worth the $20 at Harbor to get a smaller torque wrench... :mad:
Well, when I viewed the Boomba video on page one they didn't use a torque wrench on their install. I figured if I used some long closed end box wrenches I could get the torque extremely close to where it needs to be so I did just that. Worked like a charm.

Br,

-Mike
Fair enough. I always figure better safe than sorry. I went and asked a buddy who works on his motorcycle and found one for motorbikes that was itty bitty but still went up to the pressure I needed. My neighbor lent me some size adapters, and lickity split this thing was done. Worked great. Feels great and least for the couple of days I had it on. I have to get it serviced at the end of the month, so I decided to put the OEM mount back on for the next couple of weeks.

Way I see it I put the new one back on start of October with the winter tires and the November snow will make the increased NVH(which isn't that bad) indistinguishable from the regular driving conditions here starting around then. By the time spring rolls around it will be thoroughly worked in and without any additional discomfort during the warm road conditions.
 

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I installed the Boomba Rear Motor Mount. Launch is much improved. My first attempt at launching had me hit the rev limiter before I could react to shift. It took me by surprise how fast it reached red-line. Shifts are also more precise. It is amazing how much more throttle I can apply without wheel hop. I knew less wheel hop would translate to better front-end grip and expected better cornering turn in. It was better but what really surprised me was how much more the car rotated around corners. It feels like adding an additional 0.5 degrees of negative camber. I had a huge grin on my face going around one of my test corners. I turned back around to do it 10 more times :) Corner exit speed is also improved because I can go to gas sooner without inducing understeer.

NVH - You notice it in idle when the AC is running and when launching in 1st at regular street traffic speed. It is felt in the steering wheel, dead pedal and clutch release. Not much of it is felt in the seat. It is not terribly bad though. The trade off is everything is smoother at speed. It is completely worth it! Cruising on the freeway, you can feel the road a little more but the added NVH is so small you would only notice the difference if you are familiar with driving the car before and after the new mount. You would forget that difference in a few days and we have been told things get smoother after break-in. That said the roads around here are pretty good. YMMV if you have really bumpy roads.

Installation - It was not so easy for me. The front bolt was a SOB to get loose. I ended up having to point a ½ inch torque wrench with a 2-foot pipe out the front of the car to get it loose. Then when I went to insert the front bolt, it did not line up with the sub frame bolt. I tried putting the original mount on and the holes did not line up on that either. That meant the engine shifted a little. Lucky my neighbor has a hoist. First, we lifted the engine a little from the rear hook but that moved it in the wrong direction. We could not locate a front hook, so we just decided to hook it on the alternator mount since it was just a slight lift we needed. That did the trick and we got the hole aligned and the mount installed.
 
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