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Hey guys,

Just rolled over to 6,000 miles on my ‘20 N. On the interstate tonight, about 10 minutes from home, my N completely lost power steering. Switching between modes changed nothing and I still had no EPS. Turning on the off ramp required quite a bit of effort, but as soon as I was able to stop and pull over somewhere safe, I turned the engine off and then back on. On restart, I had full EPS again. I had no EPS light or check engine lights during the failure or after.

I’m starting to think this may be a problem for some of the N’s out there, as there is another post in this sub forum reporting another power steering failure. Has this happened to anyone else? Thoughts, comments?

Thanks guys
 

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Ever drove a car with no power steering? Sitting still (like turning out of a parking spot) sucked and proved that people were built different back then. However at any speed, the steering got easier. I would have thought it would follow those rules but maybe my thinking is off due to power steering pump creating restriction?

Glad you got it over safe, but hit up the dealer and see what they say, most ECUs monitor and report for repeat faults, not the first instance, maybe the ECU logged it and it can help them debug as that does not seem fun at all. Keep us updated.
 

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Old cars with no PS had very little caster and steered much more easily than modern cars with lots of caster. That's why modern cars suck so much when the PS goes out.

If it's working now, I'd take it back to the dealership and let them know what happened. Get it in writing and have them inspect it. Chances are they will find and do nothing since it works now. But if it happens again, you need to have it in writing that it's not the first time.
 

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This just happened to me last Friday in the middle of a 1500-mile trip. Was able to pull off the freeway and power steering came back after restarting the car. Freaked me out for a bit. Will have the dealer check it next time I get an oil change.
 

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I had this issue as well around the same mileage as your car. I eventually took it to the dealership to get it fixed under warranty, and after several days of them driving it around the parking lot they were able to replicate the issue and pull the code. They sent the code back to corporate Hyundai for further instruction on how to proceed, and they were ordered to replace the entire steering rack. They pulled the front subframe and replaced the rack within a couple days and since getting it back I've driven it about 5,000 miles without failure. Seems to have resolved the issue, and my only complaint is that the service tech who performed it left two nuts off the bracing that supports the front subframe, lost about 2/3 of my undertray fasteners, torqued my front wheels to roughly 300 lb ft as well as hit every fastener he touched with a 100-200 lb ft impact. I used the service manual to follow the procedure for replacing the power steering rack and corrected all the torques per the manual.
 

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Here is a copy of my service invoice with some of my personal information censored. The service tech wrote that the code was C129002. When I was going through the service manual for the power steering rack replacement I noticed there is a note warning the techs not to attempt to service the steering rack itself, so I imagine that is the reason they opted for a full replacement instead of addressing the root cause.

Font Parallel Paper Publication Paper product
 

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The code doesn’t make any sense. It has to do with the steering angle sensor nothing more. This occurs when an alignment is done and the steering sensor isn’t set appropriately at the end of the alignment process.

Like I said above, repair by replacement. In general, Master Technicians are no longer and don’t know how to diagnose even the simplest issue or fault. If the GDS finds a code, they don’t know what to do. Pretty sad, considering how much money is wasted just replacing major parts.

Steering Angle Sensor Zero Point Malfunction
The skid control ECU learns the steering sensor zero point every time the ignition switch is turned ON and the vehicle is driven at 35 km/h (22 mph) or more for approximately 5 seconds. The ECU also stores the previous zero point. If front wheel alignment or the steering wheel position is adjusted without disconnecting the negative battery terminal, or if the yaw rate and deceleration sensor zero point is not set after the adjustments have been completed, the skid control ECU detects the difference between the previously stored zero point and the newly learned zero point and outputs this DTC to indicate a poor adjustment. Indication of the steering sensor zero point malfunction is canceled by turning the ignition switch OFF.

Yaw rate and deceleration sensor zero point calibration incomplete
Poor adjustment of centered position of the steering wheel
Poor adjustment of front wheel alignment

Are the general causes
 
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