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NICE! These and the RSL1s or 2s were one of the options I've been considering for next season. Why did you go RST1 over the RSLs?

Can these be run on the same set of rotors as the stock pads?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
NICE! These and the RSL1s or 2s were one of the options I've been considering for next season. Why did you go RST1 over the RSLs?

Can these be run on the same set of rotors as the stock pads?
Ideally you run them on rotors with similar compounds (pagid pads). I don't even know if you can mix them with between RST and RSL. I can email them and ask. I can't confirm whether stock pads are compatible with them. I bought new R1 concepts slotted rotors for relatively cheap to consume them with these pads.

Pagid recommends NOT using brand new rotors to bed in the pads. Recommendation I got from GenRacer was bedding in the rotors with stock pads first (follow R1 concepts instructions). After that, take off the stock pads and bed in the Pagid pads. The bed in process is insane. In most places, you will go to jail if you get pulled over lol.

Now, I picked RST1 because I compete in Track Cross in my local track. It's auto cross on track without cones. That means, I need pads to have a good bite from cold. RST1s are rally/sprint pads. They are designed to work on type of events where you don't have a chance to warm up the brakes. They will still perform a little bad the first corner, but then the rest of the run, they will shine.

I also do HPDE. Last time I had issues with brakes was at VIR. Brakes faded. I don't know exactly which. I was on stock lines, stock fluid, and stock pads. It could have been combination of all. At VIR, I am doing multiple stops from 120+mph to 40mph.

Video for reference:

I have changed the brake fluid and brake lines. I am upgrading to RBF600 next month. I also removed the N plate. So I am doing everything possible to improve the cooling.

RST1 have a good bite all the way to up to 700c and up. They will wear at a faster rate and eat up the rotors faster. I am okay with that. But since they have better friction, I would have to use the brakes less heavily. Ross Bentley and other people have mentioned this, fast drivers will end up using less brakes than a beginner. I hope I can reach that level one day lol. I will report back end of the reason on how much pads I have consumed. I am doing 6 Track Cross Events and 2 HPDEs.

If I did HPDE only though, I would go with RSLs. You use the first few laps to warm up the brakes and enjoy fantastic braking. They have great modulation and are nicer on the rotors.
 

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You'll want to add come brake ducts. The VN has some built into the lower control arms but they don't do the job quite as well as expected. Everything you're going to do will help immensely but the one issue that will remain is the single piston calipers. They just don't allow heat to be distributed and even compression across the pad, as multi-piston calipers do. A change in rotors to drilled and slotted units will help reduce heat quicker as well.
8VO 407 811 front left
8V0 407 812. front right
OEM Air Duct Guide (Pair) - 8V0 407 811KT - 26546
www.ecstuning.com

RS3 Front Brake Air Duct Kit
Increase airflow to your front brake rotors in RS3 fashion - Includes tie wraps to secure
www.ecstuning.com
www.ecstuning.com
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will wait for more people to add the brake ducts and see how much they help.

100% on caliper and heat capacity. Unfortunately, aftermarket upgrades are expensive currently. Only the Mando kit works well with the ABS system.

Also drilled rotors aren't good for the track. The amount extreme heat cycles will cause it to develop cracks much faster than normal rotors.

With the current setup, I just need to take it out to VIR again and see how it does before throwing much solutions.
 

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Rotors are formed from extreme heat and much greater (10X) than any usage can create. Heat cycling will not cause slotted or drilled rotors to crack;
Heat Checking with solid rotors will happen much quicker than drilled or slotted rotors and they don't dissipate heat as quickly. Rotors are meant to be heat cycled during operation either on the track or road. They do not warp either, this is an urban legend.

The brakes on the VN won't ever get hot enough to glow at anytime. You can't produce the speed or friction required to make them glow.

Most won't add ducts, as they don't know they're available. As I stated before, the VN has some ducting from the factory but isn't sufficient to provided the necessary airflow to the rotors at higher sustained track speeds.

.Ross Bentley and other people have mentioned this, fast drivers will end up using less brakes than a beginner.
He's right, beginners over utilize brakes to compensate for not being smooth. Smooth is fast!!! Heat cycling the tires correctly, helps a great deal as well.(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Regardless of how they are made, holes in the rotor are a sacrifice in structural integrity.

I will wait for other people to experiment on those RS3 vents. I might go the route of custom brake cooling setup next year.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
if they're engineered and applied correctly
Exactly. Current available options are cheap. They aren't made to handle the abuse on track. They are just for looks.
A drilled rotor costing under $200 isn't at the same level as the drilled rotors Porsche or Audi includes in their cars. The replacements for those rotors are expensive.

Again, for the Veloster N, recommending drilled rotors for track use isn't a good idea. There aren't any quality options. It's better to go with a two piece rotor like the Girodisc or just vented blanks.
 

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Exactly, (as you put it) the brake rotors on the VN are pretty inexpensive/cheap and fair quality for cast rotors at $103.00 fronts and $82.93 rears and nothing to write home about.

We aren't talking about Porsche, Audi, Mercedes Benz AMG etc., are we, who utilize primarily Brembo brakes. There are other rotors and complete kits of better quality made brakes.

However, the R-1 Concepts are of equal quality to the cast rotors Hyundai utilizes and something for someone on a budget and utilizes the car for track days. You're not going to get the performance from the VN's single piston cast brakes to rival anything near a dual piston Slotted or Drilled BBK. Just not going to happen for those who are utilizing the car for other than, the daily grind and 4 or less open track days or comparable autoX or autocross. They're woefully inadequate for anything more. The more you push them aggressively on the track, you'll understand.

GIRODISC 2 PIECE FLOATING PERFORMANCE BRAKE ROTOR SET - FRONT - 2019-20 HYUNDAI VELOSTER N

GIRODISC 2 PIECE FLOATING PERFORMANCE BRAKE ROTOR SET - REAR- 2019-20 HYUNDAI VELOSTER N

2019-2020 Hyundai Veloster N RACE Brake Package

CTS-V BBK CONVERSION KIT FOR HYUNDAI/KIA

EBC Big Brake Kit

Fella 4-Piston Big Brake Kit

Fella 6-Piston Big Brake Kit


356mm Front Brake Kit for the Hyundai I30N/ Veloster N

These are just some of the brake kits available for the VN at the present, in various trim and cost. It's all in what you're going to utilize the VN for and what you're budget will stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Lol 🤦‍♂️ I'm not comparing the BBK systems or stock VN rotors to Porsche's drilled rotors. Just saying R1 concepts drilled rotors (only aftermarket drilled rotor available for the N) aren't going to be a good recommendation for the track. They won't have the same structural integrity. Really pointless sharing all these pictures.

Not everyone driving these cars are beginners or doing handful of events here and there. People who serious track and compete in these cars will increase. None of these people will even consider drilled rotors.

This is also a thread on the Pagid RST1s. People who get those pads won't waste their time with drilled rotors. Pagid pads for the VN are race pads. These pads can handle temperatures higher than 700C.

It's much better to get vented blanks or slotted and go through them.
 

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Slotted is fine, drilled is NOT. Even on fancy sportscars, its for looks. End of. I've always been using the cheapest plain discs with no issues whatsoever, for a normal car you dont need more and that even includes BBK. Heck, supercar guys who know what they're doing switch to a standard steel setup from carbon because the latter just isnt worth it.

90% of discs you see fail on a trackday are drilled, meanwhile I'd do an entire season on 15$ plains.

Brake ducts arent a bad idea, but one thing at a time here IMO. How was the pedal feeling @brzgw ? Soft pedal is gonna be fluid, whilst a relatively hard pedal but no bite will be pads.
 

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The R1 concepts lets you pick, slotted, drilled, or drilled and slotted, right? Just get the slotted ones and call it a day, no?

You guys will laugh but I have slotted and drilled rotors on my old Buick LeSabre. It's just a daily but those rotors were only 3 dollars more expensive than the plain ones.

Best regards,

-Mike
 
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Lol 🤦‍♂️ I'm not comparing the BBK systems or stock VN rotors to Porsche's drilled rotors. Just saying R1 concepts drilled rotors (only aftermarket drilled rotor available for the N) aren't going to be a good recommendation for the track. They won't have the same structural integrity. Really pointless sharing all these pictures.

Not everyone driving these cars are beginners or doing handful of events here and there. People who serious track and compete in these cars will increase. None of these people will even consider drilled rotors.

This is also a thread on the Pagid RST1s. People who get those pads won't waste their time with drilled rotors. Pagid pads for the VN are race pads. These pads can handle temperatures higher than 700C.

It's much better to get vented blanks or slotted and go through them.
:rolleyes:You did in post #9. You stated it, then edited the post and removed the reference to Porsche and Audi rotors after I pointed it out. 😟 Why were you embarrassed about it? Your limiting yourself thru lack of experience and falsehood, which is not necessary. Now sad to say. I can't trust you due to your own actions. I'll know tin future to quote you when I comment to you directly. No sense in being untruthful. Trust me, It's easy enough to bring up edit history of post *9.😟 Live by what you comment too and admit you don't have all the answers or information. My experience comes for decades of hands on use and doing and work. I like to provide it free or charge. You'll be there soon enough but still have a lot of years ahead of you.

I said before, you can't push them hard enough to to make them glow red, so it's a moot point.

Sure they do, you're just not aware of their strength or ability to shed heat quicker than the cheaper VN OEM units. Why, you have tried them and don't know and are limiting your experiences. I've used both and had good service from them rather on the track or daily use. Also, I've utilized them excessively on Superbikes over the decades and never had a cracked rotor. If you limit yourself to what someone else has told you, you'll never know from your own experience. To each their own. This is just one reference of many:
 

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I am buying the r1 concept rotors when the time comes. Just going to get the slotted ones and run the ebc red stuff pads. I don't track the car so this should be a great option over the stock set up with much less brake dust.

Br,

-Mike
 
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Discussion Starter #16
The R1 concepts lets you pick, slotted, drilled, or drilled and slotted, right? Just get the slotted ones and call it a day, no?

You guys will laugh but I have slotted and drilled rotors on my old Buick LeSabre. It's just a daily but those rotors were only 3 dollars more expensive than the plain ones.

Best regards,

-Mike

That's exactly what I did! I bought them to use with the Pagid pads only. I have couple of months of no track days. I will swap to stock rotors and pads.
4643
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Brake ducts arent a bad idea, but one thing at a time here IMO. How was the pedal feeling @brzgw ? Soft pedal is gonna be fluid, whilst a relatively hard pedal but no bite will be pads.
I will probably go with custom brake cooling next year by routing a hose to the rotors. With stock pads+fluids, pedal feels fine for the most part. At VIR, after 2-3 sessions, pedal got really soft. It still did fine, but I couldn't push the car.

Next month, I will be changing brake fluid to RBF600, RST1 pads, R1 slotted rotors, and have the N plate removed. So it will be a good test. I am not going to VIR until the end of the season. I will be doing an HPDE at Summit Point. I hit about 115 mph in Summit Main. It will definitely be hard on brakes. I will definitely report.

Also RST1s are a harder pad, they compress less than the stock pads. So that will change the pedal feel as well. I will document things and share in few months.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am buying the r1 concept rotors when the time comes. Just going to get the slotted ones and run the ebc red stuff pads. I don't track the car so this should be a great option over the stock set up with much less brake dust.

Br,

-Mike
Yeah. Not a terrible way to go
 

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Discussion Starter #19
:rolleyes:You did in post #9. You stated it, then edited the post and removed the reference to Porsche and Audi rotors after I pointed it out. 😟 Why were you embarrassed about it? Your limiting yourself thru lack of experience and falsehood, which is not necessary. Now sad to say I can't trust you due to your own actions. I'll know tin future to quote you when I comment to you directly. No sense in being untruthful. Trust me, It's easy enough to bring up edit history of post *9.😟 Live by what you comment too and admit you don't have all the answers or information. My experience comes for decades of hands on use and doing and work. I like to provide it free or charge. You'll be there soon enough but still have a lot of years ahead of you.

I said before, you can't push them hard enough to to make them glow red, so it's a moot point.

Sure they do, you're just not aware of their strength or ability to shed heat quicker than the cheaper VN OEM units. Why, you have tried them and don't know and are limiting your experiences. I've used both and had good service from them rather on the track or daily use. Also, I've utilized them excessively on Superbikes over the decades and never had a cracked rotor. If you limit yourself to what someone else has told you, you'll never know from your own experience. To each their own. This is just one reference of many:

Dude, are you crazy? I didn't edit that post. Where is the edit history?
4644

There is no (edited).

You think I care I lost your trust. You lost your credibility on blindly pushing drilled rotors and falsy claiming I edited my post. Sorry man, I have no patience for petty stuff like this. Just because you share bunch of images and links, it doesn't make the source of truth. Just sit this one out.

Also do you have track or racing experience? How much track experience you have?

I have been advising with actual experienced racers (GenRacer, other touring car drivers, and people who compete in time attack or wheel to wheel racing) and people who extensively track their cars. No one of the people I spoke to recommend drilled rotors. I went with slotted rotors to help with pad bite a bit and improve wet braking.

I have seen people have their rotors glowing on the older velosters with aggressive pads. It's totally possible to get the rotors to glow, just not likely with stock pads. The coefficient of friction on the stock pad isn't has high in higher temps. That's why I am upgrading to the pagid pads.
 

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Dude, are you crazy? I didn't edit that post. Where is the edit history?
View attachment 4644
There is no (edited).
You think I care I lost your trust. You lost your credibility on blindly pushing drilled rotors and falsely claiming I edited my post. Sorry man, I have no patience for petty stuff like this. Just because you share bunch of images and links, it doesn't make the source of truth. Just sit this one out.

Also do you have track or racing experience? How much track experience you have?

I have been advising with actual experienced racers (GenRacer, other touring car drivers, and people who compete in time attack or wheel to wheel racing) and people who extensively track their cars. No one of the people I spoke to recommend drilled rotors. I went with slotted rotors to help with pad bite a bit and improve wet braking.

I have seen people have their rotors glowing on the older velosters with aggressive pads. It's totally possible to get the rotors to glow, just not likely with stock pads. The coefficient of friction on the stock pad isn't has high in higher temps. That's why I am upgrading to the pagid pads.
This is a sad state of affairs for you. No actually I don't, considering your inability to accept your mistakes, comments and lack of truth. One lie begets another and so on.🙁 I'm not challenging you, just providing the information you have posted here and on YouTube. I've reviewed most of the videos and your so called, experience/inexperience level. You're living in a different reality the most here.

I have been advising with actual experienced racers (GenRacer, other touring car drivers, and people who compete in time attack or wheel to wheel racing) and people who extensively track their cars
Really. You didn't even know why your brake pedal was soft.:) Also, it's much easier to mount the rear sway bar by doing so with the silencer removed. Using your imagination, dreaming about and wanting something to be, is not a bad thing. But not taking the steps to make it reality and then making up stories about it is not reality.

Jeff my name sake at GenRacer, doesn't need a novices advice. They're far beyond your personal ability or understanding, as well as others. I'll be happy to invite him over to this thread and comment, if you'd like. The rest is up to him. I don't believe he'd appreciate you using his name in such foolishness, plus there is a bit of civil responsibility and legality involved in utilizing someones name falsely.

You're far too young to have acquired, any such credibility or experience and only acquired a VN a year ago, when you traded in a Mustang. Anyone here can review your track experience level on YouTube and quickly see your not what you claim to be. I'll let and them be the judge. You're embarrassing yourself and that's sad. Why not stop here before it gets far worse. This is a appeal to you personally as I don't want you to be chastised for making such irronous comments

What I have is; a much larger perspective of you as a person, based upon your inability to accept your own comments faults and mistakes. One lie begets another and so it goes until you get caught in them. It's just the way it works. Until you get caught in one.

Why do you think I responded to your comment about Porsche and Audi Rotors? I've owned MB AMG's, Audi etc., most of my life, so I can speak plainly about them. Personally speaking as I've already said, "there is no trust or reliability in your comments, knowing you're not what you claim to be. " I feel sad for you, not being able to be honest with yourself.

Ghost, can review the comment history quite easily and put the original comments back in place, if he has a mind too. However, I don't need to ask him because he and others know they were there who previously read the thread. I won't ask him too, as it's not necessary. Just because you changed the comments or attempted to delete them, doesn't make them go away.

Some reality here and understand what you're eluding to and commenting to is just foolishness on your part.
. 3:44.
 
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