Greetings - I've done some searching & reading on the questions I'm about to ask, some has been addressed mostly and some I've seen nothing on, so here goes!
Oil - I just hit 1,100 miles and I am torn between getting a break-in oil change or just waiting til 3k - I generally do city driving mostly, small trips <5 miles, stop and go, but on this first 1100 miles about 400 of it was highway driving. I have seen forum references to the oil specified in the manual (quaker state conventional 5w-30), but I've seen a lot of people talk about 0w-30 full synthetic , and I personally can't find the information in the manual one way or the other. What is the final opinion on this? (sorry, I know there is an entire thread, but it seemed inconclusive) -- quick edit - I don't drive a lot during the day for my daily needs (though i've been finding reasons to drive since I picked up the car) - it could realistically be 5 months before I hit 3000 miles. This has me concerned as well, especially because I have an inkling that this particular car was sitting at my dealership since Janruary and I bought it with 270 miles on it. (I know, usually I like my cars with less than 50, but there were not many N's left in the wild out here so I couldnt be picky)
Mode switching - This is more curiosity - what is actually going on when I switch to N mode from Normal / sport / eco? Engine timing, electric throttle response, and electric dampeners on suspension? Is there a reliability cost to switching modes often? Should I be at a full stop when I switch modes? Will driving the car in N mode (with the full exhaust retardation causing pops and burbles that we love) cause excess wear and tear?
Rev matching - same question. First time I turned on rev matching it felt jarring because I wasn't used to it, but now I kind of like it. Is there a 'cost' to rev matching while driving spiritedly? (other than the fact that i'll lose my touch on regular 6mt cars
)
Carbon deposits - I come from a VW GTI mk6 with direct injection and carbon deposits were warned about and ultimately are what caused me to have to replace the car (stuck valve for emissions purposes that would not let the car pass inspection, was told headers needed to be removed and engine 'walnut washed' which would have cost more than the car was worth). I've heard this is an issue that plagues all direct injection engines - but ive seen very little about it being an issue for velosters in general, and obviously not our veloster yet as it is using a bigger engine.
Thanks for the knowledge as usual, I am loving this car. It is so fun to drive and puts a smile on my face every time I turn it on.
Oil - I just hit 1,100 miles and I am torn between getting a break-in oil change or just waiting til 3k - I generally do city driving mostly, small trips <5 miles, stop and go, but on this first 1100 miles about 400 of it was highway driving. I have seen forum references to the oil specified in the manual (quaker state conventional 5w-30), but I've seen a lot of people talk about 0w-30 full synthetic , and I personally can't find the information in the manual one way or the other. What is the final opinion on this? (sorry, I know there is an entire thread, but it seemed inconclusive) -- quick edit - I don't drive a lot during the day for my daily needs (though i've been finding reasons to drive since I picked up the car) - it could realistically be 5 months before I hit 3000 miles. This has me concerned as well, especially because I have an inkling that this particular car was sitting at my dealership since Janruary and I bought it with 270 miles on it. (I know, usually I like my cars with less than 50, but there were not many N's left in the wild out here so I couldnt be picky)
Mode switching - This is more curiosity - what is actually going on when I switch to N mode from Normal / sport / eco? Engine timing, electric throttle response, and electric dampeners on suspension? Is there a reliability cost to switching modes often? Should I be at a full stop when I switch modes? Will driving the car in N mode (with the full exhaust retardation causing pops and burbles that we love) cause excess wear and tear?
Rev matching - same question. First time I turned on rev matching it felt jarring because I wasn't used to it, but now I kind of like it. Is there a 'cost' to rev matching while driving spiritedly? (other than the fact that i'll lose my touch on regular 6mt cars
)Carbon deposits - I come from a VW GTI mk6 with direct injection and carbon deposits were warned about and ultimately are what caused me to have to replace the car (stuck valve for emissions purposes that would not let the car pass inspection, was told headers needed to be removed and engine 'walnut washed' which would have cost more than the car was worth). I've heard this is an issue that plagues all direct injection engines - but ive seen very little about it being an issue for velosters in general, and obviously not our veloster yet as it is using a bigger engine.
Thanks for the knowledge as usual, I am loving this car. It is so fun to drive and puts a smile on my face every time I turn it on.
