Hyundai Veloster N Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings - I've done some searching & reading on the questions I'm about to ask, some has been addressed mostly and some I've seen nothing on, so here goes!

Oil - I just hit 1,100 miles and I am torn between getting a break-in oil change or just waiting til 3k - I generally do city driving mostly, small trips <5 miles, stop and go, but on this first 1100 miles about 400 of it was highway driving. I have seen forum references to the oil specified in the manual (quaker state conventional 5w-30), but I've seen a lot of people talk about 0w-30 full synthetic , and I personally can't find the information in the manual one way or the other. What is the final opinion on this? (sorry, I know there is an entire thread, but it seemed inconclusive) -- quick edit - I don't drive a lot during the day for my daily needs (though i've been finding reasons to drive since I picked up the car) - it could realistically be 5 months before I hit 3000 miles. This has me concerned as well, especially because I have an inkling that this particular car was sitting at my dealership since Janruary and I bought it with 270 miles on it. (I know, usually I like my cars with less than 50, but there were not many N's left in the wild out here so I couldnt be picky)

Mode switching - This is more curiosity - what is actually going on when I switch to N mode from Normal / sport / eco? Engine timing, electric throttle response, and electric dampeners on suspension? Is there a reliability cost to switching modes often? Should I be at a full stop when I switch modes? Will driving the car in N mode (with the full exhaust retardation causing pops and burbles that we love) cause excess wear and tear?

Rev matching - same question. First time I turned on rev matching it felt jarring because I wasn't used to it, but now I kind of like it. Is there a 'cost' to rev matching while driving spiritedly? (other than the fact that i'll lose my touch on regular 6mt cars :))

Carbon deposits - I come from a VW GTI mk6 with direct injection and carbon deposits were warned about and ultimately are what caused me to have to replace the car (stuck valve for emissions purposes that would not let the car pass inspection, was told headers needed to be removed and engine 'walnut washed' which would have cost more than the car was worth). I've heard this is an issue that plagues all direct injection engines - but ive seen very little about it being an issue for velosters in general, and obviously not our veloster yet as it is using a bigger engine.

Thanks for the knowledge as usual, I am loving this car. It is so fun to drive and puts a smile on my face every time I turn it on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
324 Posts
Go ahead and change your oil with a synthetic 0w-30 if you have concerns about it. But it should be fine if you wait until 3k.

Switching modes shouldn't hurt reliability, and you don't need to be at a stop. Pops and bangs heat things up a little more but must not be an excessive amount with 100k warranty. I'm unsure what effect the extra fuel may have but it does seem i have more carbon on my tips after running in this mode (could just be the way I drive while in this mode).

Rev matching shouldn't increase wear and tear, probably the opposite actually unless it considerably increases the number of times you normally shift.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Go ahead and change your oil with a synthetic 0w-30 if you have concerns about it. But it should be fine if you wait until 3k.
Have you noticed our manuals don't come with oil specifications for our actual engine? I see the 1.6t, I see the 2.0 NA, I dont see the 2.0 GDI turbo that our cars use....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
I think the manual online is not up to date but the copy that came with the car has all the oil info in it.
I'm pretty sure the online manual is the "regular" Veloster manual, and doesn't include the N. :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Personally, changing oil early seems to be a personal preference and whether or not it makes you feel better than the manufacturer's recommendation of changing it at the first interval. Up to you. I personally like to get newer cars every 5 years or so, so I wouldn't keep the car long enough to see any real differences.

Mode switching shouldn't see any noticeable differences in reliability of the life of the car. Sure, might have marginal engine wear with sports/sports+ mode vs normal but nothing Hyundai wouldn't cover at least within the 100k.

As for rev matching, if you downshift while you decelerate having the rev matching on is better practice unless you rev match yourself. Otherwise you are subjecting your drivetrain to the forces of deceleration when it was not the intended design/function of that, instead the brakes were and they do a great job of it.

Carbon deposits, I have no idea how this engine is about it. I imagine you might find a few owners/forums for the Kia Optima or Hyundai Sonata 2.0T to better judge this long term. I used to own a Focus ST which had awful problems with this, so I'm planning to install an oil catch can on this car regardless. Just a piece of mind since I track it a couple times per year and drive it hard almost every day.

Hope this is helpful, and always enjoy others input/thoughts/feedback!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
There seems to be only one API SN PLUS (SN+) 0w30 synthetic oil on the market right now.... Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w-30 full synthetic.

The certifications on paper seem to be very impressive. PdsDetailsPage. I looked on another thread discussing group 4/5 oils and if it's hydrocracked or not, but -shrugs-

Ive been using Motul efe xclean acea c2/c3 for 3 oil change iterations within 5000 miles, and have just made the switch to pennzoil's discontinued maximum power 0w-30 that is also API SN+.

api SN + is supposedly specifically for TGDI and helps with low speed pre ignition by having more magnesium than calcium.

The api SN+ and 0w-30 seems to be performing well. Someone here, I think r velo n, has mentioned the most wear occurs during start up. Additionally, I've watched engine oil animations and apparently it takes around 12 seconds upon start up for the sump to circulate oil throughout the whole engine.

For one oil change iteration of the 3 I've had with Motul, I ran the engine hard for 2000 miles. Lots of 120 mph pulls, aggressive driving, a techron fuel cleaner, a redline sl-1 fuel cleaner, a k&n 1004 filter and the oil drained out near pitch black and viscosity like water. One thing I noticed during this particular iteration was each time that I checked the dipstick oil, there would be some black soot in addition to darkened oil. Either the fuel cleaner did a hell of a job, or k&n filter went bad or something! (I switched to genuine 35505 hyundai filters now really cheap in bulk) . I raced my engine hard with the discontinued pennzoil api SN+ 0w30 and there's no black soot appearing on the tissues from my dipstick checks. 1050 miles with this oil and it's still clear :eek: I'm thinking the two fuel cleaners I used promoted that soot. Second guess would be the k&n ps1004.

Screenshot_2020-10-09-12-27-48-561_com.android.chrome.jpg Screenshot_2020-10-09-12-28-42-781_com.android.chrome.jpg Screenshot_2020-10-09-12-29-06-779_com.android.chrome.jpg
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top