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Discussion Starter #1
I test Drove a Veloster N PP today because that's the only one near my house. I was looking at some base models for around 25k out the door as well. My first dilemma is with the non-pp as I feel like that one will lose value pretty badly compared to the PP version. I know they would both lose value and maybe I shouldn't even care about that since you don't buy a car as an investment. I also like all of the extras on the PP version. I also was not able to test drive a non-pp version to compare.

I really enjoyed the test drive. The exhaust sounds great and it drives great. The problem is that the dealers don't seem to want to go down from $30,500 which seems too much for me for this car. The car is awesome but after paying out the door it's closer to 32k where I live and that's getting crazy to me. Seems that price is getting too close to the Civic Type R.

I was looking at some used Civic Type Rs with 1k to 2k miles on them and those are going for 34k.
I also was checking out some Mustang GTs used with 1500 miles on it for 30k.

I've never driven a Mustang GT or a Civic Type R. I assume the CTR would be similar to an N and the GT is probably totally different.

Just some thoughts I've been having. It's more difficult because I don't have any CTRs to test drive and the Ford dealer here is just selling new mustang for crazy high prices so I don't want to go try to deal with the sells people and all of that just to get a free test drive when I know I won't be buying it.
 

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If you don't mind waiting to put the power down coming out of low to mid speed corners I wouldn't pay an extra 5-7k for the PP over the base. It's literally the only thing I noticed that was significant between the 2 (and being able to mute the exhaust). If you like the ctr styling give it some serious thought in that price range.

In a straight line or steady state cornering I didn't notice a difference between the base and PP but like I said if trying to accelerate hard out of a 2nd/3rd gear corner the base will first push a little wide then reduce the power (if esc is on) until it's able to gain traction. The PP will just pull through the corner.
 

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Get the pp. It's worth it in every regard for 2k more. Just better yourself at the buying process. Watch some YouTube vids on how to negotiate. When you're ready to buy, find two dealerships that have one that you want even if one is far away. Make sure they have the car; they can see each other's inventories. Use that far dealer against the close dealer or vice versa. Go to the dealer midday on the last day of the month. Let them offer their first price (sticker of course). Counter offer at BELOW what you think is fair. The idea is to settle in the middle. Sales people often use this as a closing \ negotiating tactic. So, for example, if they want 30,540 and you want 29k, start your counter offer at 28k. Go back and forth a few times with this offer / counter offer process. They're going to use all kinds of closing tactics. Ignore the closes, stay focused on the numbers. The manager will literally be telling the sales guy what to say in response to your offer when the sales guy takes it to his desk. Money down is the thing that gives you leverage. I wouldn't play this game with anything less than 5k down. And don't tell them right away you have it. Tell them to quote you 500 down. And then don't even sweat their first offer sheet. That, and, hey, the other dealership said they would give me 29k even, but I don't want to not use local business if I don't have to. You guys are local and I want to support that. If they won't do 29k, say no thanks, you'll take your 5k (this is where you mention the increase in money down) down to the other spot. And start getting yourself together as if you're going to walk out. And if they let you get up and walk out, do so. Then go to the other dealership and play the same game. Last day of the month dealers are trying to hit a quota to get rebates and spiffs from the manufacturer. How can you tell? - bs with some sales guy you spot smoking. Ask him how his week is going, ask him if they got their number yet. Or, pay attention to detail. Last day of the month and they haven't hit quota, every single sales rep they have will most likely be there. They will all have a heightened sense of anxiety, and you will see the managers all over every single deal. They will literally lose money on a car just to get the number for quota. Use this against them. "do you want to do a deal today or not? 29k even, 5k down, you have a deal right now or I'm gone." If they haven't hit their quota, they will NOT let you walk out. And then sit back and DON'T SAY A WORD! Watch the magic happen. Good luck, and enjoy that e-lsd on the pp option. 😉

Added points -

Always do the math of what they are charging you, to the penny. Multiply out your payment and look at the difference. If it feels like too much it probably is. In most states the finance person doesn't have to tell you the lowest rate you qualify for. Not a bad idea to speak with 2 loan officers at different banks to find out what you should be at rate wise. Even rough estimates will help.

At any point in time, be ready to get up and walk out. If the dealership has really put up a wall with you, go the day before the last day of the month. That way if you get up and walk out they have a day to call you. Remember, these people are not your friends, they're not you're buddies, and don't forget that. Everything they say will be perfect. i.e.- You don't want to have to sit through this at another dealership bud, let's just sign and get this done. Always a response and a comeback for everything. Forget the words, focus on the numbers.

Ask the receptionist before you even look at a car who the newest sales person or two is. Tell them you want to help em out with a sale. Then, you've got your mark. The managers will sometimes cave a lil more for a new guy just trying to get that reps numbers rolling so they can justify making the hire to their boss.

The dealers first offers are egregious. I coached my wife through this when she went car shopping while I was at work, through a phone, texts and one call. I ultimately saved her 5500 off of their first offer. On a 2020 Toyota Corolla.
 

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That's exactly what I did. I pitted 2 Hyundai Lots against one another, and trust me they knew it. One was in Broken Arrow, OK and the other one was in Sillsbee, TX. The cost to fly to both places was just a $10 difference so right off the bat that cost wasn't a factor for me. The only thing that saved me a little money was the fact the one in Broken Arrow was a dealer trade from a lot in Dallas so it has 292 miles on it. The one in Sillsbee, TX had 18 miles on it, but had been sitting on the lot for over 3 weeks. That seemed strange to me at the time cause like right now IF you can find one it sits maybe a week on a lot, if it's the PP model. All 3 guys I know in my town where I live that have one had to go out of state to buy. Just like me. I got the one in Broken Arrow for $28,500 out the door. Paid Cash. No Payments...Thank God!! But definitely be ready to play the game.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The best deal I could get today is:
OTD $29,789.00

If they didn't charge a 799 dealer fee it'd be basically 29k OTD whch I think I'd be ok with since I know they price bumped the 2020s some.

Is 29,789 too much? Also when I show other dealers what the other dealer is telling me they always want to just up the price a little bit more than that.

Anyone have a good strategy to get them to go any lower? I'm not sure this one will go lower but guess I could try. I just don't want to ruin a deal.
 

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My thought is this i have the base N if you arenot going to do track days or auto cross or just going out and doing a little street racing. I dont think you will miss the 19'S , LSP DIFF , and the slightly smaller brakes and a few less items you can adjust with the N grin system the base would be great. i may do a auto cross maby , but the base is a perfect car for me i use it as a daily driver It surprises me with the MPG it is a very well designed car . Well that's my 2 cents worth .Have a good one
 

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Dont buy a Hyundai if resale is a concern. The N platform has not helped retain value at all. Many have sold there cars within a year of ownership and realized the agony for the used Hyundai market. It is what it is.

As azycray said, if not tracking the car the base is fine. However that ELSD is sick! Try doing that in the after market and see how much it cost. My driving style regularly uses the diff on street driving YMMV.


My take, if you regularly drive hard around corners and track at least once a year, the PP is the one to get.
 

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If you can get the car for $29,789 I would jump on that! And in my humble opinion which doesn't mean anything, If you can afford that offer on the PP do it. For what you get its not a bad price. When I was looking for mine and debating between the Non PP and PP I looked at what it would cost to add those components you get with the PP and it was far more than $2100. The E-LSD alone is worth the extra cash, and the active exhaust. Wasn't so much about horsepower for me, but the added 25hp you get with the special tune to take it to 275hp vs. the 250hp is nice too. I have not started to mod my N out yet. I'm waiting so I can add all the performance parts at once. I'll get a baseline dyno w/o parts, and then after adding everything at once I'll do another dyno run. Luckily there is high school here with an awesome dyno. Its a learning experience for the kids, and its only $25 a pull. I drove a non PP a few weeks ago and there is a difference. Could definitely feel the E-LSD no being there. The 18" wheels did feel a bit better to me than my 19"s though. But if you want a "N", get an "N" with the PP. You will not regret it. I know if I would have gotten the base model a month and half ago, I would be regretting it right now. But the money and decision is yours to make.
 

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I test drove a base model, and it was nice and fun.

My attitude is, for the $2000 mark up, you get a LOT of good things with the PP, and that's the model I plan to buy. I could care less about the 19" wheels, but the eLSD, and the active exhaust are worth it. 25 hp difference isn't a ton, and some say (yet to be 100% verified) that the PP and non PP really have the same output anyway.

It's all moot really. There's ways to get that 25hp back and then some. Do you need the eLSD? Probably not. Do you want it? If so, get the PP. Paying MSRP isn't a bad thing. Never, ever pay over MSRP though. That's just stupid in my opinion. I'll spend a few hundred on a plane ticket to buy one without markup and spend gas money and a hotel stay just on the principle of the thing, and also never use that dealership if possible.
 

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The real world experience seems to be 5k+ more for the PP though. Not 2k. Even with the PP not going over msrp.

The PP is the superior car though.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks for all of the help guys.

Initially I was looking at the Base but then test drove a Chalk White PP and just knew I wouldn't ever feel happy in the base. I always get the base when I buy a new car b/c of price but this time I just went all out to be happy. The 19s may not be as comfortable but I always found the 19s on any car pretty much to look quite a bit better than 18s.

I'm going to go pick it up Saturday. It's about a 2 hour drive away so can't wait to get it.

The best price I actually got was from a dealer in Columbia, SC for 29,200 OTD but it was a red one so I went with the blue one for 29,789 OTD. Red was my second choice. For some reason I wanted the blue so hopefully I don't feel it's girly later on or when I see it in real life. I'm sure it will look pretty sharp when I see it. Another reason I didn't go with the red is because it's hard to see the accents and I feel it may not pop as much as a Veloster N should pop lol but maybe I'm wrong I've never seen one in real life. It probably looks pretty awesome.
 

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Thanks for all of the help guys.

Initially I was looking at the Base but then test drove a Chalk White PP and just knew I wouldn't ever feel happy in the base. I always get the base when I buy a new car b/c of price but this time I just went all out to be happy.

I'm going to go pick it up Saturday. It's about a 2 hour drive away so can't wait to get it.

The best price I actually got was from a dealer in Columbia, SC for 29,200 OTD but it was a red one so I went with the blue one for 29,789 OTD. Red was my second choice. For some reason I wanted the blue so hopefully I don't feel it's girly later on or when I see it in real life. I'm sure it will look pretty sharp when I see it. Another reason I didn't go with the red is because it's hard to see the accents and I feel it may not pop as much as a Veloster N should pop lol but maybe I'm wrong I've never seen one in real life. It probably looks pretty awesome.
The blue is the best color on these cars. I feel it's a little too attention grabbing for my taste, so I stick with black whenever possible. Congrats on the new car!
 

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Red was my second choice. For some reason I wanted the blue so hopefully I don't feel it's girly later on or when I see it in real life. I'm sure it will look pretty sharp when I see it. Another reason I didn't go with the red is because it's hard to see the accents and I feel it may not pop as much as a Veloster N should pop lol but maybe I'm wrong I've never seen one in real life. It probably looks pretty awesome.
I saw a blue one once in Calgary, AB. So nice! Not girly at all, at least not with the red accents.
 

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I got a blue one and just be ready for all the looks, and " What is that?" all the time. Its definitely an attention grabber. I goto a Cars and Coffee, and mine gets more attention than other cars there that way more exotic. For Christ's sake there is a Sienna that shows up and there is more people around mine then his. Ha. Its the color though really. But you made a awesome choice and congrats! Have fun, and just be prepared for the wheel hop between 1st and 2nd when you get on it really hard.
 

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IDK, I am kind of partial to white... :) But congratulations on the purchase. It's a very fun car!
 

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Mustang GT is no the worst car ever, my wife drives one, 460 horsepower and the features of this car are awesome. Comfort ad convenience, but I won't say the same when speaking about the price. Although, negotiations are the key. The final price was 30k. It's a huge sum for my budget, but let's live life beautifully. I signed out a contract purchase with a company, where pay monthly a fixed sum and the end what is left. Ok, the left money ar higher but I will get a good job soon and it won't be a problem. If you are looking for some car finance company I advise to choose this one, check the link below.

 
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