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Move the clamps on the 90’s closer to the end of each end of the Silicone 90’s. This makes a better seal for the flanges. My apologizes, I didn’t explain it very well as I just got back from a 25 mile bicycle ride.

The BOV is a possible problem but more likely the o-ring seal on the boost pipe. Replace it and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Move the clamps on the 90’s closer to the end of each end of the Silicone 90’s. This makes a better seal for the flanges. My apologizes, I didn’t explain it very well as I just got back from a 25 mile bicycle ride.

The BOV is a possible problem but more likely the o-ring seal on the boost pipe. Replace it and try again.
So I changed out all my clamps for t bolts and they are all positioned near the end of the 90s.. I also was able to install the pierburg unit and I can report that with the forge unit no change, I put the factory dv back on and no the car is back to only peaking at 10psi before falling off ..
 

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Did you replace the o-ring on the BOV or OEM Diverter? O-rings on the BOV or diverter, that connect to the boost pipe, need to be replaced every time the are removed and reinstalled.

Lets knock off one possible issues at time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Did you replace the o-ring on the BOV or OEM Diverter? O-rings on the BOV or diverter, that connect to the boost pipe, need to be replaced every time the are removed and reinstalled.

Lets knock off one possible issues at time.
O-ring is now replaced and still venting.. it’s to the point where the valve is being held open ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Did you replace the o-ring on the BOV or OEM Diverter? O-rings on the BOV or diverter, that connect to the boost pipe, need to be replaced every time the are removed and reinstalled.

Lets knock off one possible issues at time.
In this photo u can see the gap.. I sent this pic to forge and they told me it’s hanging up.. I told them soon as I disconnect the vac line it will pop up.. what would be causing so much vacuum pressure even at idle? Even when I shut the car off the vacuum will still hold it open .
 

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Well, that’s definitely the issue. If all the vacuum lines are hooked up properly from the Boost Solenoid, there will be no reason for the BOV to stay open. Did you say you added a heavier spring to the BOV?

If so, did you ensure it was properly reassembled? I’m just attempting eliminate a single issue.

What you can do, is contact Forge Motorsports? Let them know the problem you having with it, after you’ve insured its reassembled correctly.

What’s the striated marks to the bottom of the ring in the photo? Where did they come from?

If it’s hanging in the barrel, then it’s reassembled incorrectly or the barrel is milled incorrectly Things like this happen from time to time. They can send you a service kit for the BOV and you can rebuild it.

I have another proposition if it becomes a revolving door issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Well that’s definitely the issue. If all the vacuum lines are hooked up properly from the Boost Solenoid there will be no reason for the BOV to stay open. Did you say you added a heavier spring to the BOV?

If so, did you ensure it was properly reassembled? I’m just attempting eliminate a single issue.

What you can do, is contact Forge Motorsports? Let them know of the problem after you’ve insured its reassembled correctly.

What’s the striated marks to the bottom of have barrel in the photo?

If it’s hanging in the barrel, then it’s been milled put incorrectly. Things like this happen from time to time.

I have another proposition if it becomes a revolving door issue.
So I spent all morning with them.. they said the issue isn’t on their parts .. they are saying it’s something else in my system.. they said to get a new boost Solenoid so I did a peirburg unit and same thing.. swapped back to the factory unit and same thing.. I asked them if their catch can be causing the issue being it goes into the intake manifold and so does the main vac line and was told no
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well, that’s definitely the issue. If all the vacuum lines are hooked up properly from the Boost Solenoid, there will be no reason for the BOV to stay open. Did you say you added a heavier spring to the BOV?

If so, did you ensure it was properly reassembled? I’m just attempting eliminate a single issue.

What you can do, is contact Forge Motorsports? Let them know the problem you having with it, after you’ve insured its reassembled correctly.

What’s the striated marks to the bottom of the ring in the photo? Where did they come from?

If it’s hanging in the barrel, then it’s been milled put incorrectly. Things like this happen from time to time.

I have another proposition if it becomes a revolving door issue.
As far as being Assembled correctly the valve was checked prior to starting the car that the valve moved freely under the spring and wasn’t catching .. they said take out the heavy spring and go back to the 5-15 lbs one and I did and it just vents sooner
 

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I take it your talking to the USA office correct?

This is a singular issue most likely with the BOV. If the BOV is bypassing even a little as shown in the photo, you won’t be able to build boost before it blows off.

I’d say this, tell them you’d like a refund for the BOV, it’s not functioning correctly.

All the vacuum lines coming from and to the boost controller are correctly reinstalled, as per original specifications, without any pinched lines correct?

Replacing the spring isn’t going to fix the issue.
 

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This is who you need to talk to directly. The USA office, is a sales office and doesn’t have the capacity to answer technical questions or trouble shoot such problems.

Luke does!👍
 

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I’ll help you get this sorted. Show me a photo of the lines, boost control solenoid to the BOV.

Also, Their CC won’t have anything to do with this issue.

I have a spare BOV, if worse comes to worse and have to have one. I can let you use it or you can buy it off me at a reduced price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
This is who you need to talk to directly. The USA office, is a sales office and doesn’t have the capacity to answer technical questions or trouble shoot such problems.

Luke does!👍
Sadly i have scratched it taking it on and off so I own it..
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I’ll help you get this sorted. Show me a photo of the lines, boost control solenoid to the BOV.

Also, Their CC won’t have anything to do with this issue.
let me pull the intake so I can take a pic
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I’ll help you get this sorted. Show me a photo of the lines, boost control solenoid to the BOV.

Also, Their CC won’t have anything to do with this issue.

I have a spare BOV, if worse comes to worse and have to have one. I can let you use it or you can buy it off me at a reduced price.
Ok
Hand Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exhaust
this is the stock unit.. as u can see I have the peirburg unit in the background cause they have had me check multiple times didn’t make sense to keep taking it out
 

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I think your JB4 wires are backwards based on this picture, brown wires are supposed to hook to the MAP sensor on the intake manifold and rainbow wires connect to the TMAP on the boost pipe. This could be part of the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I think your JB4 wires are backwards based on this picture, brown wires are supposed to hook to the MAP sensor on the intake manifold and rainbow wires connect to the TMAP on the boost pipe. This could be part of the problem.
r u sure homie?? I swear that the longer thicker wire was supposed togo the map and the skinny brow/black go to the charge pipe
 
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