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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installed the Pierce Motorsports rear trunk brace today. Literally took me 10 mins flat. Jim is a GREAT guy and knows his stuff, not to mention great fabricator. Been buying things from him for years.

Next up, Whiteline front sway bar & Alcantara steering wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Black (oem?) emblems from S. Korea (Mr Kim's Garage):

I probably went overboard by taking off the front bumper, but, I did not want to try to pry the dang thing off the front and risk destroying parts of the grill.

Start by removing these plastic grommets plus a couple of screws, all underneath the front bumper.
This includes the grommets and screw in each wheel well:
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Pull back on the bumper until you hear it pop loose. Carefully set it down. I took needle nose pliers to the back of the front emblem and pushed out the H. Be sure to save the silver crimps if at all possible:

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Reverse the bumper process and this is the final look:

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Rear emblem de-badging and installing the black (oem?) emblem from S Korea thanks to Mr Kim's Garage (IG):

For the rear emblem I used some fishing line to get started on removing the sticky 3M tape. Also, if you do not own plastic removal tools yet you should ;) :

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Make sure to clean the area thoroughly before installing the new emblem. I used some goo-gone followed by simple green to remove the last of the stickiness and dirt and grime.

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Easy install all in all. 2 out of 5 at best and took maybe 20 mins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Alcantara install of the S Korean parts I received from Kim's Garage (IG).
For the shift knob, pull straight up (in neutral), HARD! It WILL pop off but remember how to put it back together (spring, black bushing etc). As for the shift boot, use your plastic removal tools and gently pry up on the boot surrounding. For the armrest, there is a good install guide on anther forum, I seem to be missing the link at the moment. For the parking brake (holy !*#^&#%!!) I would not recommend this install to a newb/beginner, haha!
Unfortunately I did not take pics during the install, only after. Here are the results (still missing steering wheel swap):

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, so today I tackled the steering wheel swap which took me about a half an hour. That does NOT include the 30mins or so that I left the battery unhooked prior to the install. I basically followed this video here,
, but would like to also mention some things or best practices that you will not get from the video!

--- When using the Flathead screwdriver to push on the clips that hold the airbag in, use a sweeping motion from up to down.
--- The video mentions to use a 22mm socket on the bolt that holds the steering wheel in, this is INCORRECT! The 22 felt loose on the bolt. The 13/16 socket fit perfectly!
--- When you are dealing with the pink and purple plug under the airbag, push the orange tabs UP and gently pull them off. Be careful as these are fragile plastic pieces!
 

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For the parking brake (holy !*#^&#%!!) I would not recommend this install to a newb/beginner, haha!
Unfortunately I did not take pics during the install, only after.

Any tips for doing the handbrake? Got mine from Mr. Kim last week but haven't had the time to install yet. I assume the entire center console trim has to come out, but I haven't looked into it extensively yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Any tips for doing the handbrake? Got mine from Mr. Kim last week but haven't had the time to install yet. I assume the entire center console trim has to come out, but I haven't looked into it extensively yet.
Hey there, yes you are correct. I'll see if I can attach a few pics here from the install. The entire (plastic) column needs to slide back in order to be able to access both of the anchor(?) lines in the back. Also, removing it will help greatly with access to the bolts! Just make sure you have time and it's not too hot out, haha!

I hope these pics give you an idea of whats in store. Don't forget to take out the 2 bolts under the mat inside the center console! Good luck bud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I installed 2 new sway bars last Monday, something that I figured would take me about a couple of hours. Let me tell you, the rear bar was a piece of cake, especially when compared to the front sway bar install.
This is not for the faint of heart and it took 2 of us a good 5-6 hours (figure food and drink breaks) to get it done.
We had a lift and all the tools necessary, well, minus a proper install video or instructions. To get a general idea we looked at a video from a 2013 Veloster Turbo install which gave us 'some' idea....

If you have little to no mechanical inclinations I would recommend that you get a shop to install the front sway bar.

Bottom line: Incredible difference!! No wheel bounce and the car is definitely more planted, especially when going over bumps/uneven pavement and at turn-in. A lot less lift-off and the feeling is more "solid" or heavier than prior.

Got my front sway bar from Pierce Motorsports (love Jim and the customer service I receive from them).
The rear sway bar was made by and sent to me by Eli Villa.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Random pics from the front install.
Basically you have to remove all of the bolts and nuts so that you can drop it down in order to create more space to remove the bolts for the oem sway bar. You will have to remove the motor mount bolt as well as loosening up the 3 bolts to the steering column. I also removed the heat shield but of course put it back in the end.
 

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Hell yeah dude, coming along nicely!!
 
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Nice build 👍

One of the pics that shows the downpipe and turbo pipe next to each other just reminded me to do something about mine. I plan on placing a better heat shield between those two since I have an aftermarket downpipe and does not have that welded heat shield. Just to see if it’ll improve IAT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
+ Following. Sweet build! Do you plan on installing a short shifter?
Thanks Snoopy. I haven't found much need for a short throw shifter quite yet, but a track day or two should determine that one. Do you have one installed already? If so, have you found a positive difference in throw length?

Cheers,
Holger
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nice build 👍

One of the pics that shows the downpipe and turbo pipe next to each other just reminded me to do something about mine. I plan on placing a better heat shield between those two since I have an aftermarket downpipe and does not have that welded heat shield. Just to see if it’ll improve IAT.
Yeah, that heat shield is a flimsy pos in imo, but, better than nothing right now, lol. And yes, I would bet that with a "proper" heat shield that you'll drop your ATI's. I'm still looking for a (long) cai that utilizes a heat shield that will block the heat coming off of the FMIC. Is that too much to ask for? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Ever feel tired of the nasty orange looking dome lights? Yeah, me too.
Kim's Garage sells these direct, OEM replacements from Korea. Looks SO Much better imo.
Do not forget that both of these lights are screwed into the roof, held in by the blue, plastic clips.
These clips are rotated in and out of place!
 

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