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New Member w/ Used Veloster N To-Do List

4K views 32 replies 7 participants last post by  RedVN 
#1 ·
Howdy! I am new here as a proud owner of a VN in Performance Blue without the Performance Package. Most fun I've had behind the wheel by far! Coming from a 1997 Toyota Celica ST 5spd and 2016 Elantra GT auto. Definitely gets way more attention than the Elantra, and a little more attention than the Celica (miss that car so much, had a guy pull up next to me and ask if it was Supra 😂)

I got the VN with 17.5K miles and appears to be bone stock. I did my first oil change last weekend and ran a bottle of techron in the last tank. Feels like she pulls stronger and smoother after that (placebo??). I'm sending an oil sample to Blackstone Labs to get an idea of her health before my ownership. Combing through this forum, I have a decent idea of things I should do and things I want to do and looking for advice/constructive criticism:

  1. Transmission fluid change (assuming it wasn't done at break-in)
  2. CRC Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner (Did this a few times with the Elantra GT's 2.0 GDI before every other oil change)
  3. Oil Catch Can (Looking at Forge Dual CC)
  4. Weight reduction
    1. Hood, maybe CF, maybe vented to help with high temps? (I'm in the CA desert, summer ambient temps of 100F+ most of the summer, not in this list but open to better oil cooling)
    2. Rims, keeping same fitment nonPP fitment since it rides smooth when not in harshest setting (I have a slow leak in driver side rear tire, so maybe move that up on the list)
  5. VelossaTech Snorkel
  6. Ark Mid-pipe (CA CARB keeping from doing much more to the intake/exhaust)
 
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#2 ·
Imo almost all of this is weird but I might be a different person.
1. Yes you need to do one with redline for sure
2. ???? I’ve never heard of that on any forum or community posting place, it sounds way overkill. I would do it once an oil change if that-catch can would solve most of this issue and WMI 100% solves this issue
3. Why not just go add1 and save money for more mods? If it’s not a money and a looks thing for sure I get it
4. Yes
5. Without a tune, why?
6. Just remove the resonator and save $400
if you need parts CARB shipped hit up Greg Bauchet owner of scgw on Facebook he can help you out
 
#5 ·
Imo almost all of this is weird but I might be a different person.
1. Yes you need to do one with redline for sure
2. ???? I’ve never heard of that on any forum or community posting place, it sounds way overkill. I would do it once an oil change if that-catch can would solve most of this issue and WMI 100% solves this issue
3. Why not just go add1 and save money for more mods? If it’s not a money and a looks thing for sure I get it
4. Yes
5. Without a tune, why?
6. Just remove the resonator and save $400
if you need parts CARB shipped hit up Greg Bauchet owner of scgw on Facebook he can help you out
Thanks for the reply!
Regarding #2, I made a habit of it coming from another 2.0 Hyundai GDI motor instead of running a catch can on it. This would mostly be just to get the backs of the valves cleaned after 17.5k miles, then installing the catch can afterwards to eliminate the need for future use. That's my thinking, at least.
Regarding #5, I'm not very knowledgeable of the need for a tune. VelossaTech and others who have posted about it say it doesn't need to be ran with a tune. Any additional info you can share on pros of a tune with the snorkel?
For #6, N_Dorphins mentioned the base VN has no resonator, defeating any purpose for midpipe, if I understood that correctly.
 
#6 ·
You don’t need a tune for any bolt on modification with exception to an upgrade of a larger hybrid turbo.

If your going to clean the valves get the system done professionally. BG chemical cleaning, most dealerships do so at 30K as an optional cleaning;
 
#7 ·
I meant it in a way that the snorkel is kind of a waste of money for the most part. If you want a list money/power: TUNE by a large margin, downpipe, intake inlet/intake, intercooler (depending on where you live ie how hot it is). I have the snorkel but only for 2 reasons: 1. Looks cool, 2. I live in AZ where any iat reduction is very important.

id much rather suggest into getting RMM and tune as my first upgrades then go from there.
 
#9 ·
IAT reduction would be important to me as well. Although, that is lower on priority list with winter coming. Overall, I am more into longevity mods versus power mods. I intend to put good mileage on her, maybe 20K per year. Also, what is RMM??? Trying to keep up with the acronyms lol
 
#8 ·
Additionally, the BG platinum process utilizes the MAP Sensor with a special injection nozzle. So it cleans the entire system, fuel rail, injectors, entire TB, including the backside of the butterfly as well. It’s done under pressure, where a can of CRC isn’t and can’t be made to.
 
#11 ·
BG recommends it every 15K miles.

He’s I do have direct experience with it on several cars. It works as advertised and restores lost power that is felt. I’ve had it done thru my dealership service and was also recommended and accomplished on my sons 1.6 Kia Rio, where it also made a difference in available power and fuel economy.😃👍🇺🇸
 
#21 · (Edited)
Has nothing to do with how much a company manufactures or offers for a specific model format.

When a product is well engineered and manufactured, there’s nothing saying they have to offer or produce more to support it.

Because a company offers or produces more, doesn’t mean they’re better. It’s how well those products are engineered, manufactured and function in the end.

SXTH ELEMENT dumped their first try at a RMM, had to reengineer and design it. They offer no upper motor mount either. This is where the primary problem resides.

TTR engineered, designed it once and we worked together to make sure it was well constructed, manufactured and functioned well.
 
#25 ·
Has nothing to do with how much a company manufactures or offers for a specific model format.

When a product is well engineered and manufactured, there’s nothing saying they have to offer or produce more to support it.

Because a company offers or produces more, doesn’t mean they’re better. It’s how well those products are engineered, manufactured and function in the end.

SXTH ELEMENT dumped their first try at a RMM, had to reengineer and design it. They offer no upper motor mount either. This is where the primary problem resides.

TTR engineered, designed it once and we worked together to make sure it was well constructed, manufactured and functioned well.
That answers my curiosity beautifully. Matter of quality over quantity. Thank you!
 
#22 ·
I probably would recommend the polyurethane RMM inserts if you’re planning on going RMM/UMM. The way you describe your driving and how you view the vehicle-that’s probably the best combination.

ive heard some differing comments on the Facebook group about people’s experiences with SXTH RMM and UMM.
 
#29 ·
30 hours? With the right tools and stands it can be done in an 2.0 hours including setting up on jack stands, disassemble and reassemble of the OEM lower motor mount.

Ask questions if you ever have issues such as this obviously created. Don’t suffer needlessly it’s not necessary.😃👍🇺🇸
 
#27 ·
I am not sure if this is the right place to ask this but since I have never even seen a VN all of you have a lot more experience with the car than I do. In other cars (500 Abarth, Alfa 4C Mini Cooper S) I have found the hoses and stock clamps to be terrible and have replaced them. Do these cars suffer from the same issues, and if so who makes hoses for the car? Thanks
 
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