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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy! I am new here as a proud owner of a VN in Performance Blue without the Performance Package. Most fun I've had behind the wheel by far! Coming from a 1997 Toyota Celica ST 5spd and 2016 Elantra GT auto. Definitely gets way more attention than the Elantra, and a little more attention than the Celica (miss that car so much, had a guy pull up next to me and ask if it was Supra 馃槀)

I got the VN with 17.5K miles and appears to be bone stock. I did my first oil change last weekend and ran a bottle of techron in the last tank. Feels like she pulls stronger and smoother after that (placebo??). I'm sending an oil sample to Blackstone Labs to get an idea of her health before my ownership. Combing through this forum, I have a decent idea of things I should do and things I want to do and looking for advice/constructive criticism:

  1. Transmission fluid change (assuming it wasn't done at break-in)
  2. CRC Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner (Did this a few times with the Elantra GT's 2.0 GDI before every other oil change)
  3. Oil Catch Can (Looking at Forge Dual CC)
  4. Weight reduction
    1. Hood, maybe CF, maybe vented to help with high temps? (I'm in the CA desert, summer ambient temps of 100F+ most of the summer, not in this list but open to better oil cooling)
    2. Rims, keeping same fitment nonPP fitment since it rides smooth when not in harshest setting (I have a slow leak in driver side rear tire, so maybe move that up on the list)
  5. VelossaTech Snorkel
  6. Ark Mid-pipe (CA CARB keeping from doing much more to the intake/exhaust)
 

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Imo almost all of this is weird but I might be a different person.
1. Yes you need to do one with redline for sure
2. ???? I鈥檝e never heard of that on any forum or community posting place, it sounds way overkill. I would do it once an oil change if that-catch can would solve most of this issue and WMI 100% solves this issue
3. Why not just go add1 and save money for more mods? If it鈥檚 not a money and a looks thing for sure I get it
4. Yes
5. Without a tune, why?
6. Just remove the resonator and save $400
if you need parts CARB shipped hit up Greg Bauchet owner of scgw on Facebook he can help you out
 

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Welcome to the club! You'll love this lil' car!

Best regards,

-Mike
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Imo almost all of this is weird but I might be a different person.
1. Yes you need to do one with redline for sure
2. ???? I鈥檝e never heard of that on any forum or community posting place, it sounds way overkill. I would do it once an oil change if that-catch can would solve most of this issue and WMI 100% solves this issue
3. Why not just go add1 and save money for more mods? If it鈥檚 not a money and a looks thing for sure I get it
4. Yes
5. Without a tune, why?
6. Just remove the resonator and save $400
if you need parts CARB shipped hit up Greg Bauchet owner of scgw on Facebook he can help you out
Thanks for the reply!
Regarding #2, I made a habit of it coming from another 2.0 Hyundai GDI motor instead of running a catch can on it. This would mostly be just to get the backs of the valves cleaned after 17.5k miles, then installing the catch can afterwards to eliminate the need for future use. That's my thinking, at least.
Regarding #5, I'm not very knowledgeable of the need for a tune. VelossaTech and others who have posted about it say it doesn't need to be ran with a tune. Any additional info you can share on pros of a tune with the snorkel?
For #6, N_Dorphins mentioned the base VN has no resonator, defeating any purpose for midpipe, if I understood that correctly.
 

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You don鈥檛 need a tune for any bolt on modification with exception to an upgrade of a larger hybrid turbo.

If your going to clean the valves get the system done professionally. BG chemical cleaning, most dealerships do so at 30K as an optional cleaning;
 

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I meant it in a way that the snorkel is kind of a waste of money for the most part. If you want a list money/power: TUNE by a large margin, downpipe, intake inlet/intake, intercooler (depending on where you live ie how hot it is). I have the snorkel but only for 2 reasons: 1. Looks cool, 2. I live in AZ where any iat reduction is very important.

id much rather suggest into getting RMM and tune as my first upgrades then go from there.
 

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Additionally, the BG platinum process utilizes the MAP Sensor with a special injection nozzle. So it cleans the entire system, fuel rail, injectors, entire TB, including the backside of the butterfly as well. It鈥檚 done under pressure, where a can of CRC isn鈥檛 and can鈥檛 be made to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I meant it in a way that the snorkel is kind of a waste of money for the most part. If you want a list money/power: TUNE by a large margin, downpipe, intake inlet/intake, intercooler (depending on where you live ie how hot it is). I have the snorkel but only for 2 reasons: 1. Looks cool, 2. I live in AZ where any iat reduction is very important.

id much rather suggest into getting RMM and tune as my first upgrades then go from there.
IAT reduction would be important to me as well. Although, that is lower on priority list with winter coming. Overall, I am more into longevity mods versus power mods. I intend to put good mileage on her, maybe 20K per year. Also, what is RMM??? Trying to keep up with the acronyms lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Additionally, the BG platinum process utilizes the MAP Sensor with a special injection nozzle. So it cleans the entire system, fuel rail, injectors, entire TB, including the backside of the butterfly as well. It鈥檚 done under pressure, where a can of CRC isn鈥檛 and can鈥檛 be made to.
That BG Platinum cleaning sounds cool, but maybe for higher mileage. Have you had any type of experiences with the company or processes on any personal vehicles or primary info from someone else?
 

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BG recommends it every 15K miles.

He鈥檚 I do have direct experience with it on several cars. It works as advertised and restores lost power that is felt. I鈥檝e had it done thru my dealership service and was also recommended and accomplished on my sons 1.6 Kia Rio, where it also made a difference in available power and fuel economy.馃槂馃憤馃嚭馃嚫
 

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IAT reduction would be important to me as well. Although, that is lower on priority list with winter coming. Overall, I am more into longevity mods versus power mods. I intend to put good mileage on her, maybe 20K per year. Also, what is RMM??? Trying to keep up with the acronyms lol
Rear motor mount. I would get a catch can and rmm. I鈥檇 also go for an intake and intake inlet, along with an intercooler. Tune is up to your preference although it has the most gains per dollar.
 

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Rear motor mount. I would get a catch can and rmm. I鈥檇 also go for an intake and intake inlet, along with an intercooler. Tune is up to your preference although it has the most gains per dollar.
I will also say the best easy and most impactful suspension mods I鈥檝e done imo: 8 piece rigid collar bushing from uniqperformance, 4 point pierce Motorsport brace, ofc RMM, upper motor mount, ofc lowering springs-if you want them-and If you want only a little low go eibach otherwise HR is great for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I will also say the best easy and most impactful suspension mods I鈥檝e done imo: 8 piece rigid collar bushing from uniqperformance, 4 point pierce Motorsport brace, ofc RMM, upper motor mount, ofc lowering springs-if you want them-and If you want only a little low go eibach otherwise HR is great for me.
I like the idea of the rear motor mount. Is this same?
 

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I like the idea of the rear motor mount. Is this same?
Yes. Check out the rigid collar body bolts. They鈥檙e 100% non invasive and make a big difference over bumps
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Trying to do more research, I'm not seeing other parts TTR makes or sources for VNs. From a skeptical point of view, why should someone trust TTR in developing an upper and lower motor mount if there are no other available parts for the car? I'm just curious. It's cool that TTR has both upper and lower, makes it a better all round choice for motor mounts, but Sxth has a stronger base of other pieces they make specifically for this car.
 

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Trying to do more research, I'm not seeing other parts TTR makes or sources for VNs. From a skeptical point of view, why should someone trust TTR in developing an upper and lower motor mount if there are no other available parts for the car? I'm just curious. It's cool that TTR has both upper and lower, makes it a better all round choice for motor mounts, but Sxth has a stronger base of other pieces they make specifically for this car.
I鈥檓 just going to be straight up with you. Imo and I鈥檓 sure it鈥檚 different than most peoples on here as everybody raves on sxth, but there are other manufacturers for parts for our car, and sxth stuff is well made but is by no means the end all be all for parts made for this car. To my knowledge, besides the AFE scorcher, there aren鈥檛 any 鈥渂ad鈥 parts for this car. I would also stay away from the boomba BOV.
The TTR piece is a great part, and Sxth makes great products as well. However, the only thing worth it imo from a money perspective from sxth are the RMM/ecu tune (not piggyback-jb4 is more comprehensive)/big turbo. The intercooler is very nice but also ridiculously expensive and replaces the front crash bar with something that looks much less substantial.
Sorry for the tangent
 
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