[NjredV]

Hey guys,

i have a 22 dct still in its break in period, so far i have noticed i have cant hear anything on the intake side when accelerating, also i can only hear the pops faintly with the windows up. I need a little more volume out of this car for my own preference. I wanted to do the ARK mid pipe and the AFE intake and inlet. These pieces cost roughly the same amount of money and neither i feel present a warranty concern. Which route would you / have you gone first?

 

[almazing]

If you want turbo noises, you'd probably want an aftermarket intake and a vent to atmosphere blow-off valve. You'd hear the trademark whoosh noises when you let off the throttle, and you'd also hear the turbo whine from when the turbo spools up.

Adding a mid pipe would greatly increase exhaust noise, so you'd hear intake and turbo noises even less.

As far as warranty goes, the intake and BOV are fairly easy to return to stock, should the need arise.

 

[RedVN]

Hey guys,

i have a 22 dct still in its break in period, so far i have noticed i have cant hear anything on the intake side when accelerating, also i can only hear the pops faintly with the windows up. I need a little more volume out of this car for my own preference. I wanted to do the ARK mid pipe and the AFE intake and inlet. These pieces cost roughly the same amount of money and neither i feel present a warranty concern. Which route would you / have you gone first?

Aftermarket BOV is not permitted via track or OEM warranty.

Intake or aftermarket exhaust are no issues and permitted.

Track Usage and Modification

FAQs Q. If I drive my Veloster-N on the track will it void my warranty? A. The Veloster-N was designed for high performance at home or on the track. The warranty covers components originally manufactured or installed by Hyundai that are defective in material or factory workmanship, under normal...

www.velostern.com

 

[Rem234]

Which do you want more, intake/BOV sounds or exhaust sound? Removing the resonator is pretty similar to purchasing the mid pipe and costs between $30-75 at a local muffler shop. That might be a low cost alternative that lets you change both. Removing the resonator or adding the mid pipe will only change the exhaust noise (sound) level slightly, it is not drastic.
If you want intake noise you are going to want something with an open filter element or a metal tube like the AEM, K&N, or Forge.
A way to test this out is to just remove the factory air box lid. Make sure the wedge that secures the filter in the bottom box is tight, and then drive the car around. The noise won't be quite as loud as the aftermarket tube, due to the factory rubber tube, but will give you a general idea of how it would sound.

 

[NjredV]

my only real concern with doing the midpipe is that i dont mind the increase in sound at all i just dont want it to be obnoxious. also with the car being a dct im not to interested in bov's currently. Focus is definitely on being able to hear the mechanicals operate as I have grown accustomed to hearing these things.

 

[almazing]

my only real concern with doing the midpipe is that i dont mind the increase in sound at all i just dont want it to be obnoxious. also with the car being a dct im not to interested in bov's currently. Focus is definitely on being able to hear the mechanicals operate as I have grown accustomed to hearing these things.

Hearing mechanical noises? Like the valvetrain clicking? Or induction noise? This isn't really that kind of engine. It's mostly smooth and quiet operating. I.E., generally lacks 'character'. You'd hear SOME induction noise with an intake, but the turbo muffles most of it when it's spinning. Naturally aspirated engines have that mechanical and induction noise you crave.

 

[NjredV]

sorry maybe i phrased it poorly i guess its induction noises like spool and flutter

 

[almazing]

sorry maybe i phrased it poorly i guess its induction noises like spool and flutter

Open intake like the the Forge with an aftermaket BOV. You won’t hear the whoosh and flutter noises since the stock BOV is a bypass type that pushes air in to the intake tract rather than the atmosphere. Even with open style intakes like the Forge one.

There are 3 types of BOVs. Full vent to atmosphere, bypass(stock), and hybrid. The hybrid ones allow you to change how much air vents to atmosphere which also adjusts the noise level. More VTA, more noise. Full VTAs and hybrid BOVs are available for the VN. I don’t think anyone sells just an aftermarket straight bypass valve.

 

[ultraviolet]

Mid pipe would be too tame for me so I just sprung for a Borla

 

[Pichu766]

I don’t think anyone sells just an aftermarket straight bypass valve.

GFB sells their Mach two BPV. That’s what I use on my car.
The DCT models use a more muffled muffler than manual models (according to carscenekorea on YouTube). Might be worth looking into a full cat back or something if you want to hear the exhaust better. I personally use the ark mid pipe and don’t find it too annoying, but I don’t daily drive mine. Mine’s mostly a track build.

Intake noises are greatly aided by your intake. I have used both the K&N and a Jerry rigged SXTH with K&N filter and heat shield. The aluminum tube seemed to give more of the turbo (whine and flutter) sound but now with the carbon tube I seem to hear more of the whooshing of intake.

 

[CT veloster]

Hey guys,

i have a 22 dct still in its break in period, so far i have noticed i have cant hear anything on the intake side when accelerating, also i can only hear the pops faintly with the windows up. I need a little more volume out of this car for my own preference. I wanted to do the ARK mid pipe and the AFE intake and inlet. These pieces cost roughly the same amount of money and neither i feel present a warranty concern. Which route would you / have you gone first?

Mid pipe presents zero issues and the car gets a good bit louder. You can remove the intake lid to get a feel for how loud the car will be with an intake.

 

[Jimmychanga]

I have the ark midpipe, afe intake and inlet. The exhaust sound is slightly louder and the intake sound is unchanged. My bov is the most drastic change. Like others have said, if you want more volume go with an open air filter or catback exhaust.

 

[NjredV]

I was considering running the AFE intake and inlet as I like its design. I am surprised to hear that the intake noise in unchanged with that kind of set up. I was leaning towards that set up because it looked like it lines up so much better with the duct than something like the forge. I have seen some people sight heat soaking as an issue but that would be an almost none issue if you have a quality intercooler anyway by my understanding.

 

[19danno77]

Afe intake offers essentially zero noise. Stock bov can have its hose removed and corresponding intake port covered and will make some noise for free without impacting the warranty. Do that plus the mid pipe and you've increased noise at both ends for only ~$500 and one install.

 

[NjredV]

well i did submit the order for the afe intake and turbo inlet.....i saw some people saying you can open a plug on the afe box to make some more noise but ill have to hear it installed in the car and see where to take it from there

 

[19danno77]

You cover the hole on the intake, it's after the filter so you're asking for terrible leaking out open. It's the bov no longer recirculating boosted and metered air that allows you to hear whooshing and flutter. BTW I got the afe for the washable filter and don't have the inlet--frankly screwing around with the turbo itself worries me.

 

[NjredV]

You cover the hole on the intake, it's after the filter so you're asking for terrible leaking out open. It's the bov no longer recirculating boosted and metered air that allows you to hear whooshing and flutter. BTW I got the afe for the washable filter and don't have the inlet--frankly screwing around with the turbo itself worries me.

Yea i mean opening the box is def not ideal in terms of performance, i dont really worry about doing anything with this car short or swapping the turbo out itself as i just dont feel like voiding my warranty immediately

 

[Shredosaur]

well i did submit the order for the afe intake and turbo inlet.....i saw some people saying you can open a plug on the afe box to make some more noise but ill have to hear it installed in the car and see where to take it from there

I take the entire box off for the winter and run it as an open element. For summer I put the box back on; only three bolts. I have actually left it open this entire summer so far, and don’t experience much heat soak. I drive it moderately hard and live in approximately 80-85 degree weather. Definitely a decent amount of turbo spool, flutter, and BOV whoosh with the box off and windows open. I feel like the car is adequately cooled for street driving and have experienced zero issues like this for about 2 years. For me the driving experience is more important than performance, I could care less if the timing is pulled and I’m a half second slower to 60mph, let me hear that turbo!!

 

[Veloster22N]

I have a 22 aswell and wanted to keep my warranty. I have ARK Midpipe sounds amazing. I recently installed the Xforce DP and was disappoint. I lost some of the burbles and pops it made when downshifting and feathering the gas. It did make the pops a lot louder though. If you want a intake I recommend AEM for the sound it makes you don’t need a bov. If you want extra power go JB4 you can run it undetected. Hopes this helps

 

[Archie]

I have a 22 aswell and wanted to keep my warranty. I have ARK Midpipe sounds amazing. I recently installed the Xforce DP and was disappoint. I lost some of the burbles and pops it made when downshifting and feathering the gas. It did make the pops a lot louder though. If you want a intake I recommend AEM for the sound it makes you don’t need a bov. If you want extra power go JB4 you can run it undetected. Hopes this helps

I was pretty underwhelmed with the Xforce DP on the DCT as well. Not sure what I did recently, I ended up going to Maryland and filled my tank at royal farms with my regular 93 and the pops were out of this world. Wasn't long before a CEL came on. I think the ethanol content was lower causing a rich burn in my o2 sensors. Must have lead the car to try and balance the ratio out by retarding the ignition and letting more of the gas burn in the exhaust causing some very loud and consistent popping/snapping. I filled up when I got home and the CEL went away.