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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello fellow N Fans,
Just wanted to put my experience up here because I used this forum to help with my wheel set up and figured I would contribute because there is much discussion about the process. I have 2019 Chalk White N PP and needed to get a winter setup/all season as I live in CT and winters while mild, certainly cannot accommodate Summers year round. I was on a super budget cause I knew that these would ultimately be my beater wheels. I just thought to dump this on here to help anyone who is looking to downsize as more info is always better. First up you should do your homework, I suggest to anyone that is considering dropping to 18s to check fitment industries youtube, there are many great videos to learn about the major components that contribute to wheel fitment. Ultimately I went with a Motegi MR116 18x8 +35. I found a set of these lightly used on Facebook marketplace. I also went with Continental Contiprocontacts 225/45/18 tire which I found a used as well for $40 a tire these would not be my first choice but again remember this was a budget set up and this wheel and tire combo is pretty affordable brand new. I posted some pictures and I hope you like them! Here are my tips and experience:

TPMS Sensors - TPMS 24/7 - Tire Pressure Monitoring Sensors
I highly recommend that you order TPMS Sensors - if you are buying wheels and tires separately try out the above website. They had sensors at buy 3 get one free ($85 shipped). You can order from this site by selecting your car and they are preprogramed to work with the veloster. When I got my tires mounted they charged me $10 bucks a sensor to install them. The stems are really nice and sturdy with a metal valve stem. The tire place did not have to program my car at all just installed the sensors mounted the wheels on and after about 50 miles of driving the message "drive to display" was replaced with the actually Tire Pressure. Do not fall for any scams that a place needs to PROGRAM your car to work or there is some programing FEE for sensors. From what I can tell if the sensors are made for your car (I got 433mhz) then they should detect automatically. At least from the above website they will work with a simple install and driving for about 50 or so miles. During the 50 mile time that they were not detecting the pressure I DID NOT have TPMS yellow light/warning on which was awesome (heads up if you have low pressure the Veloster is obnoxious with the warnings).

Offset:
So the rims I got were a +35 offset. The stock is +55... that means the wheels poke +20mm from stock. While tire rack and fitment will suggest this is an appropriate fitment my suggestion would be to go +45 and above. +35 with this tire size (225/45) results in fender rub when the highway dips as well as over heavy bumps. +45 would bring the wheel into the wheel well just a little bit more and in many cases you will have the option to get wheels in +35 or +45 so unless you want the look of more poke just go +45 if it is an option in the wheel you like (many cases it is). I have stock suspension and I know others have said they dont get rub with +35 so I think some of this can be solved with a lower profile tire. But be aware this is my experience and I am just trying to help but I get rub so if you rock this offset with this size tire you will probably get some too.

Hub Rings - Motegi wheels are usually a hub bore of 72.6mm while the hub on the Veloster Stock is 67.1. To have a better fitment with less vibration I would get hub rings that downsize your center hub on the wheel to match the car. When getting wheels look at the stats and check the wheel center bore. They are usually bigger than 67.1 so you can order rings that will help get a better fit. This is not required but I am told it will help with ride quality and put less stress on the lugs. I got some cheap ($12) on amazon and my local rim shop wanted $40 just make sure you get the right size as there are a million combinations out there.

Motegi MR116
This is a solid rim for the price and the red trim looks good with the red accents on the veloster (in my opinion) it is also a bargain new at $650 a set. They are not the lightest wheel at 23lbs each but lighter that the stock 19s which come in close to 30lbs each. The tire and wheel set up I have now is about 49lbs (tire 26lbs wheel 23lbs) so I really did not save a ton of weight from stock set up (31lbs wheel and 22lbs tire). This rim is also available in +35 and +45 mine were used so I did not have a choice, again would suggest the +45 over the +35 option.

If you made it this far I congratulate you. I really just wanted to put the info I gathered on here to help. hit me up if you have questions. If you are considering these wheels I have more pictures just let me know and good luck
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BL
 

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Registered
2019 Veloster N PP / MT / Perf Blue.
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587 Posts
Hello fellow N Fans,
Just wanted to put my experience up here because I used this forum to help with my wheel set up and figured I would contribute because there is much discussion about the process. I have 2019 Chalk White N PP and needed to get a winter setup/all season as I live in CT and winters while mild, certainly cannot accommodate Summers year round. I was on a super budget cause I knew that these would ultimately be my beater wheels. I just thought to dump this on here to help anyone who is looking to downsize as more info is always better. First up you should do your homework, I suggest to anyone that is considering dropping to 18s to check fitment industries youtube, there are many great videos to learn about the major components that contribute to wheel fitment. Ultimately I went with a Motegi MR116 18x8 +35. I found a set of these lightly used on Facebook marketplace. I also went with Continental Contiprocontacts 225/45/18 tire which I found a used as well for $40 a tire these would not be my first choice but again remember this was a budget set up and this wheel and tire combo is pretty affordable brand new. I posted some pictures and I hope you like them! Here are my tips and experience:

TPMS Sensors - TPMS 24/7 - Tire Pressure Monitoring Sensors
I highly recommend that you order TPMS Sensors - if you are buying wheels and tires separately try out the above website. They had sensors at buy 3 get one free ($85 shipped). You can order from this site by selecting your car and they are preprogramed to work with the veloster. When I got my tires mounted they charged me $10 bucks a sensor to install them. The stems are really nice and sturdy with a metal valve stem. The tire place did not have to program my car at all just installed the sensors mounted the wheels on and after about 50 miles of driving the message "drive to display" was replaced with the actually Tire Pressure. Do not fall for any scams that a place needs to PROGRAM your car to work or there is some programing FEE for sensors. From what I can tell if the sensors are made for your car (I got 433mhz) then they should detect automatically. At least from the above website they will work with a simple install and driving for about 50 or so miles. During the 50 mile time that they were not detecting the pressure I DID NOT have TPMS yellow light/warning on which was awesome (heads up if you have low pressure the Veloster is obnoxious with the warnings).

Offset:
So the rims I got were a +35 offset. The stock is +55... that means the wheels poke +20mm from stock. While tire rack and fitment will suggest this is an appropriate fitment my suggestion would be to go +45 and above. +35 with this tire size (225/45) results in fender rub when the highway dips as well as over heavy bumps. +45 would bring the wheel into the wheel well just a little bit more and in many cases you will have the option to get wheels in +35 or +45 so unless you want the look of more poke just go +45 if it is an option in the wheel you like (many cases it is). I have stock suspension and I know others have said they dont get rub with +35 so I think some of this can be solved with a lower profile tire. But be aware this is my experience and I am just trying to help but I get rub so if you rock this offset with this size tire you will probably get some too.

Hub Rings - Motegi wheels are usually a hub bore of 72.6mm while the hub on the Veloster Stock is 67.1. To have a better fitment with less vibration I would get hub rings that downsize your center hub on the wheel to match the car. When getting wheels look at the stats and check the wheel center bore. They are usually bigger than 67.1 so you can order rings that will help get a better fit. This is not required but I am told it will help with ride quality and put less stress on the lugs. I got some cheap ($12) on amazon and my local rim shop wanted $40 just make sure you get the right size as there are a million combinations out there.

Motegi MR116
This is a solid rim for the price and the red trim looks good with the red accents on the veloster (in my opinion) it is also a bargain new at $650 a set. They are not the lightest wheel at 23lbs each but lighter that the stock 19s which come in close to 30lbs each. The tire and wheel set up I have now is about 49lbs (tire 26lbs wheel 23lbs) so I really did not save a ton of weight from stock set up (31lbs wheel and 22lbs tire). This rim is also available in +35 and +45 mine were used so I did not have a choice, again would suggest the +45 over the +35 option.

If you made it this far I congratulate you. I really just wanted to put the info I gathered on here to help. hit me up if you have questions. If you are considering these wheels I have more pictures just let me know and good luck View attachment 4172 View attachment 4173 View attachment 4174

BL
Thanks for the informative post my man. This is all great content. This exact thing you wrote on kinda confuses me as well. I know people running +35 in 18's and also have a lowering kit w/ no rub. Then others say they have lots of rub. I saw one guy on fitment industries and he was running a 245/45/18 which is an overall way bigger diameter and circumference than stock and he says he has no rub.

Honestly I think everyone's suspensions sits a bit different. Mine is stock and there is no way I could lower an inch in the front but the rear has 1.5 inches easily it could do. I agree with your statements that +45 is best, but dang, I think this car looks way better with wheel poke. It fits into the contours of the body lines way more and channels that sporty vibe.

I wouldnt fault anyone for going aesthetics over function. If someone could run a 255/40 on this car w/ a 9 inch rim I think it would look nasty!!! But then again - all the experts spent thousands of hours making this thing handle like a beast and then that wheel modification alone would be throwing it all away! So who knows........

Not me.

-JE
 

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Chalk White 2020 Veloster N w/PP
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This very helpful. I will be buying 18" wheels and A/S tires this year. Having this car up on jack stands is not making me very happy. My Genesis is providing good winter service with a square set of winter tires on it. I put 17" rims on the Genesis to combat potholes. Had I gone with 18" rims I bet they would fit perfectly on the VN. I did not exactly have a crystal ball in 2011.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the informative post my man. This is all great content. This exact thing you wrote on kinda confuses me as well. I know people running +35 in 18's and also have a lowering kit w/ no rub. Then others say they have lots of rub. I saw one guy on fitment industries and he was running a 245/45/18 which is an overall way bigger diameter and circumference than stock and he says he has no rub.

Honestly I think everyone's suspensions sits a bit different. Mine is stock and there is no way I could lower an inch in the front but the rear has 1.5 inches easily it could do. I agree with your statements that +45 is best, but dang, I think this car looks way better with wheel poke. It fits into the contours of the body lines way more and channels that sporty vibe.

I wouldnt fault anyone for going aesthetics over function. If someone could run a 255/40 on this car w/ a 9 inch rim I think it would look nasty!!! But then again - all the experts spent thousands of hours making this thing handle like a beast and then that wheel modification alone would be throwing it all away! So who knows........

Not me.

-JE
255/40!! thats a lot of side wall! I think the car looks really good with a bit of poke but recently I watched this awesome video of a suspension breakdown on the Veloster N on youtube and I am more convinced that my next wheel set needs to match stock as much as possible. The guy talks about how the car has a 0 scrub radius and changing the offset must mess with this and ultimately impact the handling. I took my PP out last night and could def tell a change in the handling couldn't put my finger on it... ultimately these are my beater wheels and the a/s tires def aren't p-zeros but the car is still crazy fun. As much as I love mods like we are all messing with Albert Bierman here... he may know a thing or two hahahah
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This very helpful. I will be buying 18" wheels and A/S tires this year. Having this car up on jack stands is not making me very happy. My Genesis is providing good winter service with a square set of winter tires on it. I put 17" rims on the Genesis to combat potholes. Had I gone with 18" rims I bet they would fit perfectly on the VN. I did not exactly have a crystal ball in 2011.
I was on a super budget but check FB marketplace for wheels you might find a beater set too! great for the crappy northeastern months! get your baby off those jack stands ASAP man!!
 

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255/40!! thats a lot of side wall! I think the car looks really good with a bit of poke but recently I watched this awesome video of a suspension breakdown on the Veloster N on youtube and I am more convinced that my next wheel set needs to match stock as much as possible. The guy talks about how the car has a 0 scrub radius and changing the offset must mess with this and ultimately impact the handling. I took my PP out last night and could def tell a change in the handling couldn't put my finger on it... ultimately these are my beater wheels and the a/s tires def aren't p-zeros but the car is still crazy fun. As much as I love mods like we are all messing with Albert Bierman here... he may know a thing or two hahahah
Bro I totally agree!!!!! I’ve seen a few of those videos as well! I think the same as you - why should I step on the toes of a professional car designer and try to make it better? I would prob only mess it up!

My buddy owns a custom shop in Korea and they do nothing but Hyundai and he said if you go with an 8 in rim nothing below +40 and an 8.5 rim nothing below +43 for handling reasons.

In my opinion sidewalls are funny. They look great either with a lot or a little, but in the middle you get the best of neither aesthetically. Small sidewall is sleek but a large sidewall portrays muscle and strength.

If it were possible and didnt affect handling and there wasn’t limitations I think 255/40/18 or 245/45/17 would look best on this car.

-JE
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bro I totally agree!!!!! I’ve seen a few of those videos as well! I think the same as you - why should I step on the toes of a professional car designer and try to make it better? I would prob only mess it up!

My buddy owns a custom shop in Korea and they do nothing but Hyundai and he said if you go with an 8 in rim nothing below +40 and an 8.5 rim nothing below +43 for handling reasons.

In my opinion sidewalls are funny. They look great either with a lot or a little, but in the middle you get the best of neither aesthetically. Small sidewall is sleek but a large sidewall portrays muscle and strength.

If it were possible and didnt affect handling and there wasn’t limitations I think 255/40/18 or 245/45/17 would look best on this car.

-JE
very cool ! I will keep that in mind for the handling purposes! if actually pretty tough finding any aftermarket 18 or 19 in a +50 or +55. The Enkei TS10 is an option... I wonder is 5mm makes a huge difference. I am honestly keeping this car mostly stock! Maybe some suspension reinforcements like heavier rear sway and I heard the lower control arm braces are awesome too. Stock for resale is also key...
 

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very cool ! I will keep that in mind for the handling purposes! if actually pretty tough finding any aftermarket 18 or 19 in a +50 or +55. The Enkei TS10 is an option... I wonder is 5mm makes a huge difference. I am honestly keeping this car mostly stock! Maybe some suspension reinforcements like heavier rear sway and I heard the lower control arm braces are awesome too. Stock for resale is also key...
Yea I noticed as well as they aren’t many options in 50/55 but many in +40/45. I am by no means a professional on when it changes at the most critical point but i have read and heard that a 5mm change things start changing. In our example going from +55 to 50 is a ten percent change.

Do whatever you feel is best. I don’t mind torque steer as i feel it makes the car rowdy and more lively to drive. I see it needing more driver input and i like that.

The other thing is very rarely will anyone ever come close to its limits in stock form and that will never occur in daily driving.

-JE
 
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