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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was driving home form work today and when i got home i parked my car turned it off and then 5 seconds later turned the car back on to move it. when i turned it on the screen lit up orange and the screen said "Check Limited Slip Differential" a yellow triangle with an exclamation mark inside it, that screen went away in about 5 seconds then just the yellow traction control like button stayed lit up with a yellow triangle top right hand side. I moved my car parked inside my driveway then i turned my car off. i checked the manual and it just says to have it checked by a dealer. I then turned my car on again to see if the light was still there and now only the yellow traction control looking light is on but not the little yellow triangle on the top right hand corner of the traction control light. I am going to get it checked out tomorrow morning at my local dealer and will update you guys with any info that is given to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update:
I made an appointment to the dealership but they only had openings until Thursday. I drove my car to get gas when I turned the car on the light was still on, I pulled out of the driveway and about a minute later after driving it up the street the light came off. The light stayed off and hasn’t turned back on. The first picture is the light I’m talking about, the second pictures shows the “traction control off” (I just turned off the traction control to show that it’s not the “traction control off” light) and the light I got yesterday when I got the warning message.
 

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The light is staying on because there's a fault code stored. You should limit your driving till they check it out. I'd ask about leaving it there and getting a loaner car till they can get you in. They might be able to see what the code is through blulink though and might advise it's ok to drive it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the reply guys! The light came off by itself without me having to do nothing when I drove it for about 2 minutes To move the car out of my driveway, I’m still going to take it to the dealership Thursday since I already have an appointment and I doubt they’ll be able to do anything but it doesn’t hurt to take it in. I’ll let you guys know what they say.
 

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The most they can do is, hook it up to the GDS and check and clear a fault code. There's nothing wrong with the eLSD. They're similar to leaving your gas cap off and the car giving you CEL. Put the cap back on and run the car until it goes out.

Merry Christmas!
 

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I had a similar experience yesterday. I was out picking up a takeout food order, and when i got back in my car and turned it on (immediately putting it into N Mode) i noticed the same Check e-LSD" on the screen behind steering wheel. That same traction control light was also on.

I turned the car off, then on again and the Check e-LSD screen went away, but the traction control light was still still on. I drove off, and the light turned off after about 15-20 sec.

Haven't seen it since.

The night before I had just installed a short shift adapter, which required me to take the battery and ECU out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I had a similar experience yesterday. I was out picking up a takeout food order, and when i got back in my car and turned it on (immediately putting it into N Mode) i noticed the same Check e-LSD" on the screen behind steering wheel. That same traction control light was also on.

I turned the car off, then on again and the Check e-LSD screen went away, but the traction control light was still still on. I drove off, and the light turned off after about 15-20 sec.

Haven't seen it since.

The night before I had just installed a short shift adapter, which required me to take the battery and ECU out.
Yea it’s weird, I’ve been driving ever since the light went away and I’ve had no problems, the light hasn’t came back or nothing.
 

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I was driving home form work today and when i got home i parked my car turned it off and then 5 seconds later turned the car back on to move it. when i turned it on the screen lit up orange and the screen said "Check Limited Slip Differential" a yellow triangle with an exclamation mark inside it, that screen went away in about 5 seconds then just the yellow traction control like button stayed lit up with a yellow triangle top right hand side. I moved my car parked inside my driveway then i turned my car off. i checked the manual and it just says to have it checked by a dealer. I then turned my car on again to see if the light was still there and now only the yellow traction control looking light is on but not the little yellow triangle on the top right hand corner of the traction control light. I am going to get it checked out tomorrow morning at my local dealer and will update you guys with any info that is given to me.
What was the outcome to your visit ?
 

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Okay this is happening to me right now on my N, a 2020 PP. The orange exclamation point message "Check Limited Slip Differential" will flash on the screen with a ding, but it took me a day to even read what it said because it would disappear so fast. No other lights coming on like ESC for me, and the OBD II found no codes.

Similar to a previous reply, a few days ago I disconnected the battery to install the Sxth piggyback tune module, my initial fear was that I screwed up something cutting wires in the fuse box but it would be cool if it's just battery disconnect related. I've only driven 2 times since the message came up so hope mine magically goes away too.
 

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I had this issue with my car too within a couple hundred miles of purchase. Happened almost every time I drove the car. I could always tell when the light was about to pop up since I could feel that the car couldn't decide which wheel to send power to even on a straight road without hard acceleration. I brought the car back to the dealer twice. First time they went through all the electrical components and relays, that didn't fix it. I just got the car back yesterday for it's second trip in, she now has a brand new LSD, no issues with the new LSD yet.
 

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I got the diff warning on my dash during an autocross run, and power was cut completely; car idled but did not accept any throttle. Went away after restart. Then I get a notice from Hyundai minutes later: A possible condition with your Engine Control System has been detected with your 2020 VELOSTER. Dealer pulls codes and says it needs a new throttle body.
 

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I've had this happen to me twice now. Both times have been after I'll turn the car off for a couple of minutes and then restart. Both times it's gone away once the car has been off a few hours. I'd really like to know what causes this, and if there's an actual fix. First happened at around 3700 miles, just happened again last night around 4600 miles.
 

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I forgot to mention, both times it's happened has been when I've driven in Eco mode for an extended time. I very seldom get on this car hard. Maybe once a drive, if that even. I'm normally I'm situations where I can't, so I'm typically just trying to get the best fuel economy.
 

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Change the eDiff oil and it will go away permanently.

Stay out of eco mode, it doesn't help the gas mileage but simply reduces the throttle and TB response. It's useless as a economy tool and more of gimmick to make people think the car will get better fuel economy. Most owners avoid it's usage and those that do don't adjust their throttle usage to compensate. They're so used to driving the car in sport and N-Mode they attempt to utilize the same amount of throttle.
I very seldom get on this car hard.
GDI's need to be run harder more often. If you're putting around making short trip and running the car daily in bumper to bumper traffic without giving the car the preverbal "Italian Tune Up," you aren't doing the engine any good. It will produce more blowby and fuel dilution, thus making more vapor that will be turned in to carbon deposits on intake valves, Throttle Body, Intake passages and FI's much quicker, stifling overall performance and requiring decarbonizing more often.

Simply adjust your driving style to suit. Don't putt around in the VN. It's not an economy car norr was made for such use. Utilize it like it's suppose to be more often and you'll actually do the engine some good.
 

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Change the eDiff oil and it will go away permanently.

Stay out of eco mode, it doesn't help the gas mileage but simply reduces the throttle and TB response. It's useless as a economy tool and more of gimmick to make people think the car will get better fuel economy. Most owners avoid it's usage and those that do don't adjust their throttle usage to compensate. They're so used to driving the car in sport and N-Mode they attempt to utilize the same amount of throttle.
GDI's need to be run harder more often. If you're putting around making short trip and running the car daily in bumper to bumper traffic without giving the car the preverbal "Italian Tune Up," you aren't doing the engine any good. It will produce more blowby and fuel dilution, thus making more vapor that will be turned in to carbon deposits on intake valves, Throttle Body, Intake passages and FI's much quicker, stifling overall performance and requiring decarbonizing more often.

Simply adjust your driving style to suit. Don't putt around in the VN. It's not an economy car norr was made for such use. Utilize it like it's suppose to be more often and you'll actually do the engine some good.
I get over 30 in Eco, barely can get 26-27 in N/Normal. I used to drive 400+ miles a day for work I learned how to drive to save gas lol. I get on the car hard once or twice a drive. Car always comes to operating temp every trip I take. I'd rather just pull the IM at 40k miles and clean the valves like I did with my Speed. There's no preventing build up short of spraying meth. I'll have to look into changing the fluid in the diff and trans. Been planning on it, just haven't had the extra money lately cause of Christmas.
 

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Meth won't cure a GDI carbon problem. Water injection might but not meth. Meth will kill the internal seals far quicker it adds alcohol content to the fuel system. Anything over 15% is bad for the engine seals, just as you can't use E80 or E85 which will kill the Hyundai Warranty. It's easy to check at the dealership and take less that 5 minutes to confirm.

There is a helping hand for the engine and I just provided you with the information above. This and a BG GDI treatment every 30K miles. will virtually kill the carbon issue. Over 30 mpg with the onboard computer or separately calculated. The onboard is +5 mpg off, if you bothered to check it for reliability manually.
Your car do what you want, the information is widely available and understood. :)
 
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