[dotdotdotPaul]

Hey all,

I've been looking into the Veloster N as a possible next car, and noticed the PP N's are not staying in stock around here (although I have yet to see one on the road), and figure the base N might be a pretty good deal as a result (this is in California, so it's the 275hp vs 250hp). I've seen a lot of people say they're really happy with the base N, but I haven't really found any good reviews that do a real comparison of the two tiers, or a professional review that used the base N as their tester.

Can anyone point me to a good base vs. PP review? I know the diffs on specs (base has smaller brakes, no LSD, no exhaust adjustment, different tires, -25hp... did I miss anything?) but since it may be unlikely that I can actually test drive both of them at the same or similar times, would love to get more insight from others as to whether or not the PP "is worth it" (if MSRP was offered for both, seems like it'd be worth it -- but if the PP is marked up and the base is not... that might change the equation a little).

Thanks in advance,

...Paul

 

[LateralGrip]

Hey all,

I've been looking into the Veloster N as a possible next car, and noticed the PP N's are not staying in stock around here (although I have yet to see one on the road), and figure the base N might be a pretty good deal as a result (this is in California, so it's the 275hp vs 250hp). I've seen a lot of people say they're really happy with the base N, but I haven't really found any good reviews that do a real comparison of the two tiers, or a professional review that used the base N as their tester.

Can anyone point me to a good base vs. PP review? I know the diffs on specs (base has smaller brakes, no LSD, no exhaust adjustment, different tires, -25hp... did I miss anything?) but since it may be unlikely that I can actually test drive both of them at the same or similar times, would love to get more insight from others as to whether or not the PP "is worth it" (if MSRP was offered for both, seems like it'd be worth it -- but if the PP is marked up and the base is not... that might change the equation a little).

Thanks in advance,

...Paul

Not only different tires, they are smaller and the wheel is narrower. The engine RPM range is less. Honestly I don't know why there is not only one spec like in Canada. 2k for the performance package is a bargain. I personally could not do without the performance bits. Just buying and after market performance wheel and tire set will run you close to $2K. I'd keep looking around for a PP at or below MSRP. Nothing against the base but 2k in price difference is nothing.

 

[Rob...E]

PP ALL the way.

Hey all,

I've been looking into the Veloster N as a possible next car, and noticed the PP N's are not staying in stock around here (although I have yet to see one on the road), and figure the base N might be a pretty good deal as a result (this is in California, so it's the 275hp vs 250hp). I've seen a lot of people say they're really happy with the base N, but I haven't really found any good reviews that do a real comparison of the two tiers, or a professional review that used the base N as their tester.

Can anyone point me to a good base vs. PP review? I know the diffs on specs (base has smaller brakes, no LSD, no exhaust adjustment, different tires, -25hp... did I miss anything?) but since it may be unlikely that I can actually test drive both of them at the same or similar times, would love to get more insight from others as to whether or not the PP "is worth it" (if MSRP was offered for both, seems like it'd be worth it -- but if the PP is marked up and the base is not... that might change the equation a little).

Thanks in advance,

...Paul

In my opinion the electronically controlled LSD is worth the difference.
When making a decision like this I always think a year from now I don't want to regret not getting what I really wanted.

 

[dotdotdotPaul]

Yeah, the PP definitely seems "worth it" but it's not unusual for dealers around here to mark up stuff like that by $5k, and maybe even then let the base go below MSRP because nobody's buying it. I'm kinda wondering "at what point is the PP not worth it"? At MSRP, the extra $2k is totally worth it. But what if the difference is $5k? $7k? One dealer has an N that's been "sitting around" but they've priced it online at what the PP model would be -- even though it doesn't have it, and the window sticker even shows it's $2k less than what they're quoting.

...Paul

PS> Actually looks like some N's with PP have come back into inventory around here, so this may be a moot point soon...

 

[dotdotdotPaul]

So, FYI, I got a local dealer to finally tell me that they're marking up the PP at $5k over MSRP.

So the question begs -- is the PP worth an extra $7k (presuming I could get a non-PP for MSRP)? At $35k a Civic Type R at MSRP is the same price... (or maybe I just keep my Evo X a little longer... )

...Paul

 

[nomad17]

It's the exact reason I went base for my 2nd attempt at the N. After owning the PP for a short time I found that I never set the exhaust to normal. I found that the 1/2" bigger rotors were not something I ever utilized in my daily driving (if caliper pistons increased or something it'd be a different story.

At first I thought I noticed a power difference but after learning the base car was delivered with 87 octane I really can't tell a difference between the 2 with 93 octane in the tank. (Im sure there is a difference but between lighter wheels and lower curb weight it doesnt feel 25hp slower in a straight line).

I do like the shorter gearing of the PP, 3rd-5th feels too long in the base. But i probably prefer the longer 1st and 2nd.

The one thing you can't overlook though is the lsd. It is 100% worth the extra 2k by itself, even as a daily driver with 0 track time. I found myself in a similar situation, I could get the base for 5-7k less than the PP and decided to give it a shot. The PP was too close to ctr money for comfort so I paid close to si money for what I considered a more fun car. Very happy with my decision.

 

[dotdotdotPaul]

Fortunately I'm not in an urgent purchase decision point. Actually found a base N near by for $1k UNDER MSRP, whereas all the PP Ns are $4k+ over MSRP. That's an $8k swing between the two. At $2k for the PP, it's a no-brainer, at $8k, it's a big ol' question mark...

...Paul

 

[dotdotdotPaul]

The one thing you can't overlook though is the lsd. It is 100% worth the extra 2k by itself, even as a daily driver with 0 track time.

I'm curious how the drive feel was different between the two during normal daily driving?

...Paul

 

[nomad17]

95% of daily driving no difference. But full throttle through corners the lsd just felt great, the car would pull you through and be exactly where you intended it to be without letting off the gas and/or countersteering. The base car will understeer and go a little wide under full power in fairly tight corners the PP wouldn't but driven with some thought it's still a great handling fwd car that will rotate when you want. The base might actually be a little more fun in these situations just because it requires more driver interaction but would be slower coming out of turns.

Other than that the base gives you none of the low speed lsd scrub pulling out driveways etc but as long as reliability isn't affected i wouldn't even worry about that trait of the lsd.

 

[LateralGrip]

95% of daily driving no difference. But full throttle through corners the lsd just felt great, the car would pull you through and be exactly where you intended it to be without letting off the gas and/or countersteering. The base car will understeer and go a little wide under full power in fairly tight corners the PP wouldn't but driven with some thought it's still a great handling fwd car that will rotate when you want. The base might actually be a little more fun in these situations just because it requires more driver interaction but would be slower coming out of turns.

Other than that the base gives you none of the low speed lsd scrub pulling out driveways etc but as long as reliability isn't affected i wouldn't even worry about that trait of the lsd.

I guess it all depends how you daily drive. But my driving style the ELSD, tires and suspension get put to use EVERYDAY!!!


Honestly, to me it sounds like the better deal for the OP is the base. If the PP is this questionable to you just get the base For me I knew I would only buy the PP because PERFORMANCE.



It really sucks that dealers play this game. I understand the concept but **** man! just sell the car! Moving cars is a much more profitable effort than lingering on one car. Its not a limited production car. And even if it was, could still be had for MSRP or less but it will take some work. I know! Ive done the leg work.

 

[dotdotdotPaul]

(OP here...) I currently own a '10 Mitsubishi Evo X, MR Touring. So performance is pretty up there. That said, I have a ton of fun commuting my '13 Fiesta S (not ST, the base model) which has a real stick shift (but also no workable sound system, I bought it cheap for rallycrossing which I almost never do these days). So I've been thinking about trading both in on a Veloster N (since both are paid off now, I could finance that pretty cheap), get the day-to-day stick shift, fuel efficient, tiny body fun of the Fiesta with (close to) the performance and handling of the Evo, in one package. Or maybe I just keep the Evo until the Ns stop getting marked up, but that car is 10 years old now and while I love it, I could use some new whiz-bang.

...Paul

 

[Piro Fyre]

Unless the X MR is falling in value every year (which I think it holds it value nicely, even for being almost 10 years old), I would just wait until the 2020 models. Nothing changes but 2019 had a very limited import quantity. 2020 should have more imported with pre-orders open for them already and people going into dealerships and asking just for the N so even dealers are going to start ordering more of these cars. Probably beginning of 2020, you can get the 2019 models at lower than MSRP with dealers wanting to move them out to make way for the 2020 models. Just a thought. Unless you can get one for exact or under MSRP this year, I'd wait til 2020.

 

[dotdotdotPaul]

Yeah, it's holding value pretty well. Sounds like a good plan. I can save away the car payments I would have made in the meantime and maybe buy the 2020 for cash -- although I'll be keeping my eye open for an MSRP deal!

...Paul

 

[mattblowers]

For me this car is 100% about performance to $$$ ratio. It's no supercar, PP or non-PP. I got my non-PP N for a little over invoice +$100. So, for a smidge more than I could wrangle an SI for, I got a car with significantly more performance. It was well under what I could get a GTI or WRX (too long in the tooth modelwise, and too many maintenance issues) for. +$8K?! Never would it be worth that to me. At that price I could have purchased a CTR which beats the N in nearly every measurable way performance wise.

I won't track the car (tracks are for my motorcycles) so for me the extras the PP model has (while totally worth $2K extra) were a wash. Plus the tires and brakes are going to be significantly more to replace. I would have done it for the LSD though if I could have found it in the color I wanted (blue). At the end of the day it's a great car for the price in either the PP or non-PP package. Neither one is a worth a penny over MSRP except for personal reasons, but then it's not a financial decision. It's such a good deal for money that dealers started thinking they could charge perceived value for it. I never would have given a Hyundai a second glance if they didn't offer significant value for what you get versus what you pay.

It's your money, so you decide what you want. It seems like you want an objective answer, and I'm not sure there is one. Drive the non-PP, if you like it, buy it.

 

[Jm1243]

It's the exact reason I went base for my 2nd attempt at the N. After owning the PP for a short time I found that I never set the exhaust to normal. I found that the 1/2" bigger rotors were not something I ever utilized in my daily driving (if caliper pistons increased or something it'd be a different story.

At first I thought I noticed a power difference but after learning the base car was delivered with 87 octane I really can't tell a difference between the 2 with 93 octane in the tank. (Im sure there is a difference but between lighter wheels and lower curb weight it doesnt feel 25hp slower in a straight line).

I do like the shorter gearing of the PP, 3rd-5th feels too long in the base. But i probably prefer the longer 1st and 2nd.

The one thing you can't overlook though is the lsd. It is 100% worth the extra 2k by itself, even as a daily driver with 0 track time. I found myself in a similar situation, I could get the base for 5-7k less than the PP and decided to give it a shot. The PP was too close to ctr money for comfort so I paid close to si money for what I considered a more fun car. Very happy with my decision.

I believe it depends on the dealership what it's delivered with. My pp had 87 in it on delivery, it will change the tune slightly for whatever fuel is in it. It says in the manual you can run 87 at reduced performance. I'm not sure about the base but the pp at least also limits the power until its warmed up.

 

[LateralGrip]

It's the exact reason I went base for my 2nd attempt at the N. After owning the PP for a short time I found that I never set the exhaust to normal. I found that the 1/2" bigger rotors were not something I ever utilized in my daily driving (if caliper pistons increased or something it'd be a different story.

At first I thought I noticed a power difference but after learning the base car was delivered with 87 octane I really can't tell a difference between the 2 with 93 octane in the tank. (Im sure there is a difference but between lighter wheels and lower curb weight it doesnt feel 25hp slower in a straight line).

I do like the shorter gearing of the PP, 3rd-5th feels too long in the base. But i probably prefer the longer 1st and 2nd.

The one thing you can't overlook though is the lsd. It is 100% worth the extra 2k by itself, even as a daily driver with 0 track time. I found myself in a similar situation, I could get the base for 5-7k less than the PP and decided to give it a shot. The PP was too close to ctr money for comfort so I paid close to si money for what I considered a more fun car. Very happy with my decision.

I believe it depends on the dealership what it's delivered with. My pp had 87 in it on delivery, it will change the tune slightly for whatever fuel is in it. It says in the manual you can run 87 at reduced performance. I'm not sure about the base but the pp at least also limits the power until its warmed up.

Please show us where it says you can run 87.

 

[LateralGrip]

It's the exact reason I went base for my 2nd attempt at the N. After owning the PP for a short time I found that I never set the exhaust to normal. I found that the 1/2" bigger rotors were not something I ever utilized in my daily driving (if caliper pistons increased or something it'd be a different story.

At first I thought I noticed a power difference but after learning the base car was delivered with 87 octane I really can't tell a difference between the 2 with 93 octane in the tank. (Im sure there is a difference but between lighter wheels and lower curb weight it doesnt feel 25hp slower in a straight line).

I do like the shorter gearing of the PP, 3rd-5th feels too long in the base. But i probably prefer the longer 1st and 2nd.

The one thing you can't overlook though is the lsd. It is 100% worth the extra 2k by itself, even as a daily driver with 0 track time. I found myself in a similar situation, I could get the base for 5-7k less than the PP and decided to give it a shot. The PP was too close to ctr money for comfort so I paid close to si money for what I considered a more fun car. Very happy with my decision.

I believe it depends on the dealership what it's delivered with. My pp had 87 in it on delivery, it will change the tune slightly for whatever fuel is in it. It says in the manual you can run 87 at reduced performance. I'm not sure about the base but the pp at least also limits the power until its warmed up.

Please show us where it says you can run 87.

Or rather, I should say you, sure you can run 87. You can run water too! See what I'm sayingThe manual doesn't say you can't. What the manual does say is 91 is the recommended fuel.

 

[joegrant413]

Watching this thread....

All the reviews I read and YouTube I read said getting the PP was a "no-brainer".

But for my budget, it was either the VN Base with no PP, or the Veloster R Spec. So the VN base sits now for its Saturday night in my garage

Based on my experiences from driving so far -- and I had two good test drives with the VN PP -- the VN Base is fine. But I'm also babying it during break in.

The problem with professional reviewers is they will get models that have better options. It WOULD be very informative if they had tried both to offer a good comparison.

Thx,
- Joe

 

[StageVClinger]

Watching this thread....

All the reviews I read and YouTube I read said getting the PP was a "no-brainer".

But for my budget, it was either the VN Base with no PP, or the Veloster R Spec. So the VN base sits now for its Saturday night in my garage

Based on my experiences from driving so far -- and I had two good test drives with the VN PP -- the VN Base is fine. But I'm also babying it during break in.

The problem with professional reviewers is they will get models that have better options. It WOULD be very informative if they had tried both to offer a good comparison.

Thx,
- Joe

I agree, as a happy owner of the base car (of course I'm supposed to say that), I would like a back to back review by a pro reviewer as well just to see how much better the PP car is, so far the base has suited my needs quite well and after 6 months of ownership, I'm still happy with my purchase.

 

[nomad17]

I haven't made any changes to the tune but am looking forward to doing so after they've been running well for a while. Should end up the same as the PP on the dyno.