[firehands]

How much weight savings is the $1,000 carbon fiber hood?
Should I just burn 20 pounds of fat instead?

 

[rockthevote]

I'd like to do exactly what you've done, but it costs money to be light. I think a catless DP is more appealing than a battery and wheels. If my budget was not an issue, the battery seems prettty dope and unsprung weight reduction is always noticeable. Which hood are you buying? You seem on track for an overall weight reduction plan. What's next?

Will boost leak be a concern if we install a catless downpipe to our factory settings?

I'm all for a loud angry Veloster lol

Edit: I mean boost creep

 

[moonlightgarage]

I weighed the batteries and the new battery is an astounding 41.6lbs lighter than the OEM. I made a simple strap battery hold down with a rubber mat under the battery. The battery of choice was the Antigravity ATX-20 Restart. It has built in circuitry fro over/under charge protection and will jump start a car up to three times with the press of a button.

The car starts and runs like normal, verifying voltage from the control module through OBDII. I have now driven the car for two days and have some feed back. WOW!!!!!
Over 40lbs weight reduction over the heaviest portion of the car is felt and it is drastic!
Just rolling out of the garage, turning the steering wheel you can feel the front end is lighter. I did not expect this to such a degree. While driving I kept an open mind and suppressed the placebo effect as swore that is what I felt. But no! I have driven this car hard and it turns in better, feels lighter, rolls easier (less throttle), stops easier. Man what a difference!


Including my wheels I have effectively reduced the cars overall weight by almost 90lbs!!!! no other mods and the car feels soooo goood!


EDIT: adding a CF hood



Ill be weighing the car soon and have a calculated estimate of 2935lbs wet.



Tune? I don't need no stinking tune!

I weighed the batteries and the new battery is an astounding 41.6lbs lighter than the OEM. I made a simple strap battery hold down with a rubber mat under the battery. The battery of choice was the Antigravity ATX-20 Restart. It has built in circuitry fro over/under charge protection and will jump start a car up to three times with the press of a button.

The car starts and runs like normal, verifying voltage from the control module through OBDII. I have now driven the car for two days and have some feed back. WOW!!!!!
Over 40lbs weight reduction over the heaviest portion of the car is felt and it is drastic!
Just rolling out of the garage, turning the steering wheel you can feel the front end is lighter. I did not expect this to such a degree. While driving I kept an open mind and suppressed the placebo effect as swore that is what I felt. But no! I have driven this car hard and it turns in better, feels lighter, rolls easier (less throttle), stops easier. Man what a difference!


Including my wheels I have effectively reduced the cars overall weight by almost 90lbs!!!! no other mods and the car feels soooo goood!


EDIT: adding a CF hood



Ill be weighing the car soon and have a calculated estimate of 2935lbs wet.



Tune? I don't need no stinking tune!

Where did u get the battery terminals to go on the Antigravity battery so we can use our factory terminals? Or do they come with the ATX-20?

 

[moonlightgarage]

So the Antigravity website shows the H5 Group 47 as the direct replacement for all Veloster's. But that's a $660 battery. Won't the ATX20-HD with 900CCA work fine? It doesn't appear to have the restart feature and It's about $360 on Amazon. Granted a hold down strap would need to be fabricated but for $300 less I think we can handle that.

I got my N-PP wrecked and as usual with these wrecked cars the battery is about ruined from sitting dead for months. So I either have to buy the $300 factory battery or spend a few extra bucks and save 40lbs on the front end. Seems like a no brainer.

 

[Piro Fyre]

I have had the Antigravity H6/Group-48 24AH for a few months. No problems with it. I have also had 4 track days with it.Antigravity H6/Group-48

Currently running the same battery but the 60Ah version to test out for winter. Just curious if you're still running it just fine.

So the Antigravity website shows the H5 Group 47 as the direct replacement for all Veloster's. But that's a $660 battery. Won't the ATX20-HD with 900CCA work fine? It doesn't appear to have the restart feature and It's about $360 on Amazon. Granted a hold down strap would need to be fabricated but for $300 less I think we can handle that.

I got my N-PP wrecked and as usual with these wrecked cars the battery is about ruined from sitting dead for months. So I either have to buy the $300 factory battery or spend a few extra bucks and save 40lbs on the front end. Seems like a no brainer.

I think the ATX20-HD would work just fine if you don't live in a colder climate area. And these batteries are just rated for cranking amps so 32F degrees and above. Cold cranking amps is measured at 0F degrees and they don't do that rating. Although if I was you, I'd use a normal battery before going to one of these Antigravity batteries. Especially if it doesn't have the re-start feature, you can easily kill a $360 battery if there is a phantom power draw somewhere. I think the re-start feature prevents damage in this way.

As for how OP had issues with his bike version within a months time and another person chiming in with the bigger car version running it for a few months without issue, I can only say that maybe the re-start feature for those smaller bike batteries are more meant for a bike's system and the ones meant for cars are more meant for a car's system. That's the only thing I can think about as to why one failed and one was running fine.

Only had mine in for a day so can't say much about reliability. Can only report on the handling for now. The front end has less body roll and feels more tossable up front. Before, it was just the rear end being a tossable but now I can turn the front end in pretty quick. I thought with less body roll up front, it would understeer more but that wasn't the case at all. At just below a 26lbs weight reduction, car handles differently up front. But for the real test, winter. Keeping the stock battery in the back just in case. Here's some pics of the weight difference and comparing it to the stock battery. The exact OEM size is H6/Group 48.

 

[Boddie]

Currently running the same battery but the 60Ah version to test out for winter. Just curious if you're still running it just fine.



I think the ATX20-HD would work just fine if you don't live in a colder climate area. And these batteries are just rated for cranking amps so 32F degrees and above. Cold cranking amps is measured at 0F degrees and they don't do that rating. Although if I was you, I'd use a normal battery before going to one of these Antigravity batteries. Especially if it doesn't have the re-start feature, you can easily kill a $360 battery if there is a phantom power draw somewhere. I think the re-start feature prevents damage in this way.

As for how OP had issues with his bike version within a months time and another person chiming in with the bigger car version running it for a few months without issue, I can only say that maybe the re-start feature for those smaller bike batteries are more meant for a bike's system and the ones meant for cars are more meant for a car's system. That's the only thing I can think about as to why one failed and one was running fine.

Only had mine in for a day so can't say much about reliability. Can only report on the handling for now. The front end has less body roll and feels more tossable up front. Before, it was just the rear end being a tossable but now I can turn the front end in pretty quick. I thought with less body roll up front, it would understeer more but that wasn't the case at all. At just below a 26lbs weight reduction, car handles differently up front. But for the real test, winter. Keeping the stock battery in the back just in case. Here's some pics of the weight difference and comparing it to the stock battery. The exact OEM size is H6/Group 48.
View attachment 3739 View attachment 3740 View attachment 3741 View attachment 3742

Since it's been over a year, how has this held up?

 

[Piro Fyre]

Since it's been over a year, how has this held up?

It has been a very solid battery to me. Never had to use the re-start feature throughout last winter when it got down to only -5F degrees. Even at -5F degrees, it still has a stronger startup than the stock battery. The sticker says 1800 CCA but it feels like it's just half that at like 900 CCA. Still better than the 760 CCA the stock battery had. Only downside to these batteries is the price. Other then that, I have no complaints on it's quality and operation.

 

[RedVN]

Price will come down just like on the motorcycle batteries eventually. The biggest issue is to warm them up before starting.

When their cold they lose starting amperage. Keeping them on a lithium charger can preclude it.

 

[19danno77]

Rather than start a new thread, has anyone tried the more traditional braille AGM batteries for track days? Depending on the model they're 5 to 15 pounds offer starting power and all but the smallest model have CCA ratings. They're also under $200 but don't have the amps to be full-time batteries, especially in Minnesota's winters.

Separately, has anyone trunk mounted the battery for track days? Fully gutted for these events so no hydrogen concerns. I was thinking of running a second battery in parallel to keep voltage live and at ~12 so when removing the main cell for track days the race day battery is in place and no reprogramming necessary. Ten pounds along the bottom length (wire) of the car plus 5 pounds over the rear wheels nice and low to remove fifty over the front driver's wheel seems like a big win. Is the fact that it's a hatchback and if windows are rolled up the battery is with driver and instructor frowned upon?

 

[RedVN]

Cost is generally a indicator of quality. A full size Lithium replacement is warranted for cranking amperage.

Lithium batteries have difficulty during the colder months. They need to be warmed up to provide full cranking capability. This is why a lithium charger is a must have. You keep it plugged in and warm over night and you can get full amperage.

I ran them in most the motorcycles I’ve owned, and it’s par for the course for automobiles.👍🇺🇸

 

[AgentH]

arately, has anyone trunk mounted the battery for track days? Fully gutted for these events so no hydrogen concerns. I was thinking of running a second battery in parallel to keep voltage live and at ~12 so when removing the main cell for track days the race day battery is in place and no reprogramming necessary. Ten pounds along the bottom length (wire) of the car plus 5 pounds over the rear wheels nice and low to remove fifty over the front driver's wheel seems like a big win. Is the fact that it's a hatchback and if windows are rolled up the battery is with driver and instructor frowned upon?

Wondering if you or others have done this. I too would like to get a little better weight distro.

 

[19danno77]

Not yet. Thinking I'll pull the trigger in the spring before my first hpde of the year.

 

[AgentH]

Cool. What would you get and would you mount it in the rear?
Braille has a $75 off lithium and $40 off AGM deal if you're a scca member.
What's the smallest one you can use in the spring, summer, fall months (before it drops into the 30's) and still have it reliably start in the morning?

 

[19danno77]

I'm leaning towards the year round lithium solution even though it's more expensive for the reason you mention. Planning to use the OEM location to avoid the weight, work, and cost of wiring. If I were relocating for maximum progress to corner balance, I'd probably use the lead acid stock battery but I don't want the source of charging gas potentially in the cabin or taking away from hatch storage.

 

[RedVN]

Considering lithium is potentially explosive when exposed to water, the best location is in the engine compartment.👍🇺🇸

 

[19danno77]

Thanks red. This actually brings up a consideration now: of a track doesn't allow electric cars sure to the battery fire/explosion control requirements, does having a lithium 12V run afoul of this or of the overall energy potential low enough to not be an issue?

 

[RedVN]

Look at the recent rash of electric car explosion in Florida after Ian. The lowest potential 12 volt battery is enough energy to blow your hand off. Crack the cell of a 12 volt Lithium battery containing more than 200 times that of a small 12 volt lithium battery and you have an explosion of a stick of dynamite.😳

Here’s a demonstration from a lithium batteries;

Stuff is explosive and mixed with water even more so. This is why it takes 10 times the amount of water to extinguish a lithium automotive fire and will burn up to 12 hours from ignition.👍🇺🇸

 

[19danno77]

Has anyone tried using a memory saver on the VN while changing batteries? Do they work on our cars?

 

[Mok_Racing]

I weighed the batteries and the new battery is an astounding 41.6lbs lighter than the OEM. I made a simple strap battery hold down with a rubber mat under the battery. The battery of choice was the Antigravity ATX-20 Restart. It has built in circuitry fro over/under charge protection and will jump start a car up to three times with the press of a button.

The car starts and runs like normal, verifying voltage from the control module through OBDII. I have now driven the car for two days and have some feed back. WOW!!!!!
Over 40lbs weight reduction over the heaviest portion of the car is felt and it is drastic!
Just rolling out of the garage, turning the steering wheel you can feel the front end is lighter. I did not expect this to such a degree. While driving I kept an open mind and suppressed the placebo effect as swore that is what I felt. But no! I have driven this car hard and it turns in better, feels lighter, rolls easier (less throttle), stops easier. Man what a difference!


Including my wheels I have effectively reduced the cars overall weight by almost 90lbs!!!! no other mods and the car feels soooo goood!


EDIT: adding a CF hood



Ill be weighing the car soon and have a calculated estimate of 2935lbs wet.



Tune? I don't need no stinking tune!

Thank you so much for being a pioneer! We were inspired by your post and started working on the battery bracket. Here is our prototype using 3D scanned data & aluminum sheets

We started testing this on our shop car, and although it definitely helped us get a great lap time (2:02 at Buttonwillow, stock everything except Nexen 245/40/18 Sport Rs, Wheels (Braids), and added camber), It died on me twice now on the public roads I was hoping it was me being the dumb one installing it wrong, but everything looks nice and tight...

We opened an account as an authorized dealer with Antigravity, so we want to offer the N community with the best solution (& price), but obviously we can't have people being stranded.

I'm meeting them in person today, I'll keep you all posted.

 

[Mok_Racing]

Currently running the same battery but the 60Ah version to test out for winter. Just curious if you're still running it just fine.



I think the ATX20-HD would work just fine if you don't live in a colder climate area. And these batteries are just rated for cranking amps so 32F degrees and above. Cold cranking amps is measured at 0F degrees and they don't do that rating. Although if I was you, I'd use a normal battery before going to one of these Antigravity batteries. Especially if it doesn't have the re-start feature, you can easily kill a $360 battery if there is a phantom power draw somewhere. I think the re-start feature prevents damage in this way.

As for how OP had issues with his bike version within a months time and another person chiming in with the bigger car version running it for a few months without issue, I can only say that maybe the re-start feature for those smaller bike batteries are more meant for a bike's system and the ones meant for cars are more meant for a car's system. That's the only thing I can think about as to why one failed and one was running fine.

Only had mine in for a day so can't say much about reliability. Can only report on the handling for now. The front end has less body roll and feels more tossable up front. Before, it was just the rear end being a tossable but now I can turn the front end in pretty quick. I thought with less body roll up front, it would understeer more but that wasn't the case at all. At just below a 26lbs weight reduction, car handles differently up front. But for the real test, winter. Keeping the stock battery in the back just in case. Here's some pics of the weight difference and comparing it to the stock battery. The exact OEM size is H6/Group 48.
View attachment 3739 View attachment 3740 View attachment 3741 View attachment 3742

Thank you for this info! 22lbs of weight savings is still pretty awesome, especially off the front nose of the car. If all else fails with our smaller battery package, we will stock these as an option, especially for the folks out in the colder climate. R&D continues...