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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got these in today. They are quite possibly the highest quality set of coilovers I have ever held in my hand. As to how I got them, I just contacted a Korean vendor, Shark Racing, to see if they can send me a set. Actually, since we have KW vendors here in NA, they thought we could get them. Sadly, that's not the case as I tried asking a vendor last year about them and they said it didn't exist. Which, if you try to look these up on KW's website, they don't have these particular coilovers listed at all. Even on their international website, they just have the i30N listed and that's it. MAYBE an NA vendor will be able to get them this year? I don't know. I just know that at least from my experience, you can only get these in South Korea.
Packing materials Rectangle Fixture Packaging and labeling Font
Musical instrument Wind instrument Auto part Font Tool


I was curious on the spring rates on them. From my understanding, it's 6k all around. The fronts have a part number of 60-70-200, which translates into 6k rate-70mm inner diameter-200mm length. The rears say 60-70-170 and I'm sure you can figure that one out yourself.
Light Automotive tire Wood Gas Automotive wheel system
Light Product Yellow Material property Glove


Something I was also curious (and somewhat worried about) on was if the top of the strut was OEM threading. Took an OEM nut and it threaded on. So you can use your camber top mounts like the Forge or what I have, the Suspension Concepts. I would avoid using the Whiteline tops with these as the springs will be put at an angle.
Automotive tire Purple Wood Tire Violet


As for how much these coilovers cost? Well, a lot. Since these were imported from Germany to them, I had to import it from Korea to the US so there's some extra cost there. Although the good thing is for how high the price was, it includes the EDC cancellers. Only reason why there's no picture of them is because they are on backorder. [email protected] was very helpful and kept communication on my order. He decided to ship out the coilovers first then ship out the cancellers later when they get them in stock. In fact, I first contacted them about the Neotech coilovers, which don't bother with those. Those EDCs on the side are just cancellers. They aren't EDCs at all and we've all been fooled. Just get custom BC Racing coilovers instead.

Anyways, figures I'd make this post about them because there really isn't any info on these at all. Heck, not even listed anywhere on KW's websites, which I find insane. And after talking with [email protected], I think I'm the first and only person with a set of KW's in NA specifically for the Veloster N. At least for them, it doesn't seem like they ever tried exporting a set. If you have a spare $3k+ to spend on coilovers and interested in getting one from a legendary brand, hit up Shark Racing.
 

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2019 smol PP
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I have nothing of value to add other than saying "bravo" and "these are baller as hell."
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Updating with some info on the installation and a few days of driving around. Sorry for the lack of pictures here. I was focused on getting this done and ran into issues that needed time to figure out. Total time it took me was 10 hours! Was so focused on finishing that nothing else mattered at that point in time.

Firstly, the Suspension Concepts top hat isn't going to work at all. Their spring perch that's meant for either an OEM spring or a lowering spring has an inner diameter that's too big for KW's spring perch. KW's perch is machined to the exact sizing of the OEM bearing. Like once you slip it onto the bearing, it's going to be difficult to remove it off the bearing. Because of this, I had to use the OEM top hats but that's not really a bad thing because of how much camber you can get from the slotted bolt holes.

Remember how a single camber bolt will give you like under under -2 camber? Well, that slotted hole will for sure give you out to -2.5 or maybe even a little more than that. The only issue with this I ran into was that the bottom spring perch (the one that you can spin and adjust the height of the car) would be in the way of mounting the wheel on and hitting the tire. I ended up removing the strut and replacing the spring with the rear spring as it's shorter by 30mm (just over 1 inch) and it's the same exact spring rate. Now, the perch just barely clears the tires comfortably at the ride height I'm at.

The rear had much less issues but still had a major issue. Since I swapped the main springs from rear to front, I was left with the longer spring. I first put in the rear spring setup with the helper spring and set it to the lowest setting possible. Ride height was still too high. So now, I'm running just the rear spring itself without the helper springs. And it works just fine this way. The main spring has very slight tension but nothing major at the ride height I'm at.

Since the EDC cancellers are on backorder and I have 7 blown front struts, I ripped 4 motors off the struts and made my own cancellers. For the fronts, I them behind the top of the brake shield and zip tied them to the brake line. I have stainless lines from the Wilwood kit so it should be fine. Also taped it to the knuckle so it wouldn't move around too much. For the rears, I zip tied them to the e-brake line. Very solid lines so didn't really have to tape them still. These are just temporary until I get the actual EDC cancellers by KW that comes with brackets to zip tie them to the struts and shocks.


DRIVING IMPRESSIONS
It's actually quite good. Impressive even. It rides exactly like stock N mode EXCEPT a lot more comfortable. The digressive valving really helps it go over road imperfections really well. The out-of-box settings was decent with rebound (upper knob) at 9 clicks high and compression (bottom knob) at 6 clicks high. Keep in mind, adjusting compression will only adjust low speed as high speed compression isn't adjustable.

Taking corners with this setting though, it felt like it was lagging. Like I would steer, initial understeer and eventually go the way I'm pointing. Not that great. I set the front compression to 8 clicks and the rears 4 clicks. Now, it feels as good as it did before but still need to experiment to get it right.

Then we get to road imperfections like bumps and dips. Every time I hit a bump, it would absorb it nicely. But if it's a big enough bump, it would feel like the front end would just drop down. Not like crashing down but feels like falling down. And it's the same story with dips in the road too. Even going over a speed bump, it would just barely touch the jack points on the chassis when going over them with the front end. Out-of-box rebound at 9 clicks is too high for this spring rate. I set the front rebound 5 clicks and rears 6 clicks and it helps a lot. I tried going as low as 2 but that was the point where it sort of felt a little bouncy. 3 or 4 clicks front and rear might be the sweet spot but I haven't tested at these setting long enough to figure that out.

With these settings (front: rebound 5, compression 8 - rear rebound 6, compression 4), car feels like it did before but a lot more solid.

Overall, I am beyond happy with these coilovers. I thought I would regret getting coilovers since EDC is just a button press away but after driving around and playing with the settings, I really don't miss EDC at all. There's a really good reason why so many people say the V3s is that gateway into the much higher end coilovers with external reservoirs and 2-way/3-way adjustments. I also contacted KW to see how far up I can go for spring rates and they said 195lbs/in or about 3.5kg/mm. I might switch it up to Swift springs with 7k front and 8k rear so it would work better with the Whiteline 24mm front and rear sway bars rather than 6k all around.
 

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Updating with some info on the installation and a few days of driving around. Sorry for the lack of pictures here. I was focused on getting this done and ran into issues that needed time to figure out. Total time it took me was 10 hours! Was so focused on finishing that nothing else mattered at that point in time.

Firstly, the Suspension Concepts top hat isn't going to work at all. Their spring perch that's meant for either an OEM spring or a lowering spring has an inner diameter that's too big for KW's spring perch. KW's perch is machined to the exact sizing of the OEM bearing. Like once you slip it onto the bearing, it's going to be difficult to remove it off the bearing. Because of this, I had to use the OEM top hats but that's not really a bad thing because of how much camber you can get from the slotted bolt holes.

Remember how a single camber bolt will give you like under under -2 camber? Well, that slotted hole will for sure give you out to -2.5 or maybe even a little more than that. The only issue with this I ran into was that the bottom spring perch (the one that you can spin and adjust the height of the car) would be in the way of mounting the wheel on and hitting the tire. I ended up removing the strut and replacing the spring with the rear spring as it's shorter by 30mm (just over 1 inch) and it's the same exact spring rate. Now, the perch just barely clears the tires comfortably at the ride height I'm at.

The rear had much less issues but still had a major issue. Since I swapped the main springs from rear to front, I was left with the longer spring. I first put in the rear spring setup with the helper spring and set it to the lowest setting possible. Ride height was still too high. So now, I'm running just the rear spring itself without the helper springs. And it works just fine this way. The main spring has very slight tension but nothing major at the ride height I'm at.

Since the EDC cancellers are on backorder and I have 7 blown front struts, I ripped 4 motors off the struts and made my own cancellers. For the fronts, I them behind the top of the brake shield and zip tied them to the brake line. I have stainless lines from the Wilwood kit so it should be fine. Also taped it to the knuckle so it wouldn't move around too much. For the rears, I zip tied them to the e-brake line. Very solid lines so didn't really have to tape them still. These are just temporary until I get the actual EDC cancellers by KW that comes with brackets to zip tie them to the struts and shocks.


DRIVING IMPRESSIONS
It's actually quite good. Impressive even. It rides exactly like stock N mode EXCEPT a lot more comfortable. The digressive valving really helps it go over road imperfections really well. The out-of-box settings was decent with rebound (upper knob) at 9 clicks high and compression (bottom knob) at 6 clicks high. Keep in mind, adjusting compression will only adjust low speed as high speed compression isn't adjustable.

Taking corners with this setting though, it felt like it was lagging. Like I would steer, initial understeer and eventually go the way I'm pointing. Not that great. I set the front compression to 8 clicks and the rears 4 clicks. Now, it feels as good as it did before but still need to experiment to get it right.

Then we get to road imperfections like bumps and dips. Every time I hit a bump, it would absorb it nicely. But if it's a big enough bump, it would feel like the front end would just drop down. Not like crashing down but feels like falling down. And it's the same story with dips in the road too. Even going over a speed bump, it would just barely touch the jack points on the chassis when going over them with the front end. Out-of-box rebound at 9 clicks is too high for this spring rate. I set the front rebound 5 clicks and rears 6 clicks and it helps a lot. I tried going as low as 2 but that was the point where it sort of felt a little bouncy. 3 or 4 clicks front and rear might be the sweet spot but I haven't tested at these setting long enough to figure that out.

With these settings (front: rebound 5, compression 8 - rear rebound 6, compression 4), car feels like it did before but a lot more solid.

Overall, I am beyond happy with these coilovers. I thought I would regret getting coilovers since EDC is just a button press away but after driving around and playing with the settings, I really don't miss EDC at all. There's a really good reason why so many people say the V3s is that gateway into the much higher end coilovers with external reservoirs and 2-way/3-way adjustments. I also contacted KW to see how far up I can go for spring rates and they said 195lbs/in or about 3.5kg/mm. I might switch it up to Swift springs with 7k front and 8k rear so it would work better with the Whiteline 24mm front and rear sway bars rather than 6k all around.
So I have a question - If I do not use cancellers, what will happen?
 
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