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Discussion Starter #1
Fixing to do a oil change and was looking under the car, and soon discovered I really wish I had a lift. Where are the front and rear jack points on the car? Looked in the manual, yeah they dont even tell you in the manual. Just the fix a flat kit instructions. Any help would would be nice, dont really want to mess up the under tray.
 

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They are on the seam welds. Just rear for the front wheel and just forward the rear wheel. There are cut outs in the body trim. Hard to miss!
 

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Vape, you will definitely need a low profile lift. Please note: the drain plug is excessively tight from the factory. Recommend using a 6 point socket vs. 12 point or open end wrench to avoid rounding off the plug. You also need a 15 flute/80 mm filter wrench with an extension as the filter is otherwise not very accessable.
 

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Best advice with utilizing a low profile hydraulic jack, use a hockey puck as a jack pad. Put the jack stands under the control arms and chalk the rear wheels.
 

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They are on the seam welds. Just rear for the front wheel and just forward the rear wheel. There are cut outs in the body trim. Hard to miss!
I think (hope) the majority of diy'ers know that the pinch/seam weld points are where the car should be lifted. The problem then is where do you put your jack stands?
 

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I wouldn't use the pinch/seams points unless you have a jack pad with a seam groove. They bend far to easily with the stock jack doesn't distribute the weight properly. I'd use a hydraulic low profile jack or ramps. It's much easier and safer along with the rear wheel chocks.
 

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I bought a scissor jack off of e-Bay for $40.00 bucks. Works great!! Right behind the front tire you will see two bolts on the pinch welds, that's where I put my jack stands. There are the same two bolts located in front of the rear wheels too. On the VN, it has the strongest pinch welds I have seen on a car so far. The ones on my Ford Fusion were like aluminum foil compared to the VN. I have yet to bend any of the pinch welds on the VN and I have had it jacked up many, many times. Good luck with what ever you do.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

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They don't have a central front and rear jack point? That's unfortunate. I'd imagine there's a good spot on the front subframe that is suitable for a low profile hydraulic jack isn't there?
 

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They don't have a central front and rear jack point? That's unfortunate. I'd imagine there's a good spot on the front subframe that is suitable for a low profile hydraulic jack isn't there?
Officially in the manual, no.
Anyways, I probably have less technical experience than the average N owner so forgive the noob language, but for the front central point there's this video:
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You can see the large black crossmember that's connected to the control arms. On the left and right sides, there is a large square hole. I looked at the car just now, and those holes are basically the bottoms of the "horns" in this diagram: https://www.wholesalehyundaiparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=2147937&ukey_product=13461005
I say "horns" because I have no idea what to call them. Engine mount things?

I imagine I could safely place some jack stands with pads on them, or even just jack it up from that spot with a hockey puck jack pad. I'm too chicken to try jacking from the middle of that crossmember. Any thoughts?

As far as the rear, I have no idea.
 

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Best advice with utilizing a low profile hydraulic jack, use a hockey puck as a jack pad. Put the jack stands under the control arms and chalk the rear wheels.
How did you put stands under the control arms? They're stamped steel - did you just put the vertical edge of the control arm on the stand cradle, or did you actually place the stands in the flat central area of the control arms?
 

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If they can hold up the weight of the car they can surely hold up under jacking. Placed them under the flat area of the arm using a puck between the jack and the control arm. You can also utilizing on of these if you're not comfortable.
https://www.amazon.com/Potauto-Universal-Aluminum-Grooved-Magnetic/dp/B078J55SBW/ref=pd_rhf_eetyp_s_bmx_0_5/137-9688021-7797425?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B078J55SBW&pd_rd_r=bf93c561-70e8-4dc9-a55d-d79825c7bc83&pd_rd_w=qO9JZ&pd_rd_wg=xUaoO&pf_rd_p=267fe2c3-d92f-4dfc-ac6e-0821d9326e4f&pf_rd_r=M43EEYSQDC8EZET09VMV&refRID=M43EEYSQDC8EZET09VMV&th=1


This will stabilize the jack and make sure you stay directly on the pinch weld. I've got one in my wifes Accent for road use.

these are for the jack stand;
 

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If they can hold up the weight of the car they can surely hold up under jacking. Placed them under the flat area of the arm using a puck between the jack and the control arm. You can also utilizing on of these if you're not comfortable.
You're awesome, thanks!
 

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No matter what or which way you decide to do the work, make sure you utilize both jack stands and wheel chocks. Be safe but have fun with the modifications.:smile:
 

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No matter what or which way you decide to do the work, make sure you utilize both jack stands and wheel chocks. Be safe but have fun with the modifications.:smile:
Fortunately I have both. Just never owned a car that didn't have a central front/rear jacking point specified in the owner's manual so I've never had to figure out any alternative jack points before. And you know how online forums are - there is always going to be the one guy who's like "my brother's friend jacked his car up by the control arm/control arm bushing/rear differential/cross member/seam weld and it totally bent and the car fell off the jack stand," so it's hard to figure out what's actually safe vs. probably safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Jacked mine up yesterday using a 3-Ton floor jack designed for a SUV. It actually fit under the trim. Put the jack just a little behind where the jacks points are on the front, jacked it up just fine, then put the jacks stand just the right of where the indents are in the seam weld. Held just fine. Did not use a seam weld adapter and they didn't bend at all. Their pretty freakin strong!!! One thing you need to pay attention too is the yellow paint on the oil drain plug. It caused my sockets to slip off. Used an open end box wrench. Then I scraped the yellow paint off. The oil filter isn't that hard. The hole that is just to the right of oil filter is big enough to fit a oil filter wrench in there and loosen the filter up. Just barely though.
 
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