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I live in Los Angeles County and with a 250 mile radius search I could only find 8 N's 6 of them were PP.
all the dealers in LA county were asking $33,500 and they all said its this price because this is a rare car and they added security stuff, nitro in the tires, scratch guard, blah blah blah… I went to 8 dealers and finally one dealer in san Fernando let me get one for $31500. So I took it and I do love it, but I also get a little jealous when I hear some one say they got one for lower then msrp. oh well, I have no regrets.
location is everything, california and other big popular states are the worst for prices. Go to michigan, or alabama...you'll get the best deals. With hyundai specifically and the M-plan, michigan residents automatically get 25k pricing on an N with PP.
 

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Might be a little late to the party but I picked up the 2020 NPP in Columbus, OH yesterday for $26,100. I was able to get the first responders discount which knocked it down a grand which helped me pull the trigger. Traded in my old 2016 Veloster Turbo and couldn't be happier. Cannot wait to get to know this machine a little better.
 

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Got mine for 27k in Georgia. It is chalk white 2020 N with performance package. Traded in a wrx on it and couldn't be happier!
 

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Shopped around in Arizona, dealers don't want to budge past $29,500 on a 2020 VN+PP.. OTD is around $32k which includes roughly 8.5% sales tax, $500 doc, and $500~ tax/title.

Having a hard time pulling the trigger, think I may wait for better incentives or a used example to show up on the market.
 

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I picked up a used black VN 2020 w/ PP with $11k miles in IN for just under $25k.... I thought it was a steal. Everyone else's was asking $25k+ for used 2019 w/ no PP... I did a nationwide search. Had to drive it back home 1100 miles .
 

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I just collected my 2020 VN PP in Washington State for $29250 (did not include taxes & Document fees). I did try going through the Costco Car Purchase, but they offered $350 less but could never find one. So got $1525 off list price. Tried a lot of dealerships and the car was hard to find at any discount.

Dave
 

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Im picking up a 2020 Red PP for $28,660 before military discount. Sticker is $30,545. I didnt even really have to argue. Considering im trading my Audi and wont owe any tax its a steal.
 

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Not sure if they have any left, but hit up Humble Hyundai north of Houston. They did a great deal on my car.
I bought mine from them this past weekend. I wasn't trying to haggle for the lowest possible price, I just wanted a solid deal. Did my research on average Veloster N w/PP sales prices and told them I wanted slightly better than average deal. They obliged. I purchased. Easy peasy. :)
 

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If anyone is interested PM me and I can give you a guys name at the dealership here in TN who can work with you to get the one you want at a good price. They've been really great to work with, which says something for dealerships.

-Sam
 

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Had an OK experience with my deal. I used to work at a domestic dealer and know really what they can and can't do most circumstances. I was honest and upfront with the dealer with my intentions and advised them what I am looking for. I got a respectable deal that I was satisfied with and finished with just under $32k with an extended warranty and GAP ins.

The reason I give it an OK experience is that it had 292mi when I took it off lot. It was a dealer locate which they did not check, or claimed they didn't check, the mileage on before assigning a driver to make the dealer trade. I could have backed out of the deal, but decide not to as I am positive it will be fine with almost half of break-in completed. I could have pushed more with this on them, but I was already pushing too much on the deal, and it was a line walking deal to which I knew I could not push further without them killing any deal with getting the car I wanted.

Even with advertising industry my experience, I had to negotiate on my trade and command the deal. You have to understand there are limitations to what a dealer can to do make profit and their tolerances for being able to make your deal happen.

My recommendations on getting your best deal possible. Experiences will very, and no guarantees are had here. Just my opinions and observations from my experiences both in and out of the industry.
  • I chose to go with a larger well established dealer network/owner due to my trade. I am talking about a dealer with their family name on the building and owns multiple franchise locations from different manufacturers. Reason: They are usually able to cut costs of parts/labor by utilizing their other locations if they own your current brand, or have a comparable/competitive market brand. This could increase the ability to get a better price on your trade as it may give them an opportunity to sell the vehicle on one of their lots rather than take it to auction where they have limitation on negotiating a sale price. Cautions: When looking for a deal I try avoid larger corporate dealer networks as they work as such. IMO they operate that they have all the money and will only work a deal on behalf of the corporation with lower tolerances on trade-in prices (auction only prices on trades). As already stated, this may vary; shop around and get a better feel for your area. My recommendation on negotiating your trade-in: Be reasonable, rational, and realistic. Take the extra effort to make your trade presentable and be realistic on it's condition; Look at what your car would sell for on the private market vs dealer selling price, and take account of their position. Many dealerships will not take the risk to make a loser deal unless there's a reason.
  • I chose to start looking as soon as a refresh/model update was announced, not just that it was a bad ass car and I wanted to also get out of my former slow whip. It met what I wanted and seemed like an optimal time of the year and situation to buy. Usually you will find more incentives as early/mid-model refreshes are rolling out. Unfortunately, for most US regions it would appear Hyundai is only offering targeted qualified incentives or $500 customer cash. I think it's an alternative way to retain residual/resale value in the model on the used car market. I think this is an alternative/added strategy to the Assurance plan, not just the long power train warranty. To this point I had to focus on the purchase price on my trade and eliminating any attempts at unnecessary mark-up and addendumized (dealer added/installed items) additions to the vehicle cost.
  • Addendum additions to vehicle costs. These are always negotiable. These are added items such as door edge guards, rims, window tint, protective films/coatings, added to increase gross on the vehicle sale. Usually these are marked up well over, or upto, 100% of the cost to part/install these items. Usually you can get these done by tint/detail shops, or individuals, that offer their services at a way more competitive price and have better quality material alternatives. The items are usually marked higher so that the dealer can take their cut as a 'convenience fee' for doing the work already instead of having you contact those aforementioned service providers. My recommendation on addendum items: Do you due diligence on what you might want to add the car and know the price. I use the mentality that anything the dealer has added can be removed if they want me to purchase the vehicle, or they can provide me another unit without the items added. If they cannot provide another unit, they will most likely offer the items without charge or have them removed, example rims, if they can be removed without damaging the vehicle. Put the buying power in your favor with these items.
  • Buying power of the customer. I am in control of my purchasing decisions. I go into making large purchases knowing a majority of what I want out of the deal. I wanted my White VN PP at a good price to offset the amount owed on my former car financed note vs the possible actual cash value(acv). You may have other areas you'd like to focus on, mine was vehicle cost and trade value. If I don't get what I want I am not inclined to pay for it other than my personal obligations to myself. The vehicle cost and trade acv are the most critical aspects of the purchase for getting what you want in your best interests. Actual cash value is basically what someone would pay for it, anyone, but it must be apples to apples. You can't take a private party price and compare it to a dealer trade-in price; a dealer will always need to make money on the deal somewhere and with trade-ins/used cars that usually the spot; they also have to account for inspections and repairs need to make the car ready for lot or auction. Most places will say go to Carmax and they will give you a no-haggle car value. Though somewhat accurate to actual valuation on the nation wide closed auction prices, the Carmax estimation can, and should still be, negotiated with the dealer you plan to do business with other than Carmax as they don't haggle on trades, to my knowledge. A dedicated dealership will not have you go to another dealership to get this valuation, and if they do, they are most likely attempting to punt the trade since it may not be doable for the price your asking from them on your trade. However, I recommend shopping around. Tell them that your shopping around, and realistically you do not need to test drive the new car at every dealership you go to. If you say you've already test drove it at another dealer they will most likely take that as you are serious with running actual numbers and a serious buyer. (Look before you leap)
  • Financing can be troublesome if you let it be. No one has a crystal ball, however educated guesses/estimations are practical. Financing is only applicable to you personal financial situations. In your best interests, make the decisions that are best for you that you are able to live with. When it comes to financing you have several options. For me I usually don't finance unless I have to, which is usually always, but the less you finance the better you will be. I'm living within my means, but unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to have a debt free college education or early nest egg/savings to leverage towards big purchases without assuming debt. I don't want to have to wait until I'm much older to enjoy my youth, only to regret not doing it while I can enjoy everything it has to offer. With this I try to assume debt with the lowest interest rates possible while financing in terms that seem practical to the depreciation of the thing I'm purchasing. Vehicles are usually depreciating assets outside super/hyper/antique models. For this reason I never try to finance longer than 5-6 years on a car. I found this is the sweet spot for me. I try to include GAP insurance and an extended warranty for coverage on the terms of my note so that if things go tits up it can be handled without large cash out of pocket. Fortunately in my state the only insurance required on financing a new car is comprehensive, which I would never go without. So for me anything after negotiating the cost of the trade and car are 100% negotiable or ancillary in nature and aren't needed. Watch the small print on anything in service contacts, wheel insurance, or anything being sold in the finance office. I usually reach out to my bank that has my checking account, personally, to see what rate I will qualify for and what amount they will finance on the vehicle. Since I am a member they usually have a discounted or member rate that I can utilize with more flexible terms than the brand/dealer's financing bank. This helps gauge what I can spend my money on and dictate what the selling price of the car should be to accommodate my spending limit and monthly payments.
OK so I am tired, it's late here, and I have work tomorrow. Apologies for the novel here, but I felt I would provide some helpful info that people may be able to use when looking at this thread. The out of the door price includes many variables and factors to an individual's situation. Dealers negotiate on these factors and incentives. So those whom may be looking for a deal may want to take these factors into considerations. What price someone may get may not be the one you get depending on some of the factors I've explained.

TL;DR: Be reasonable, rational, and realistic. If you want something do your due diligence and research to get the best deal possible.
 

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Had an OK experience with my deal. I used to work at a domestic dealer and know really what they can and can't do most circumstances. I was honest and upfront with the dealer with my intentions and advised them what I am looking for. I got a respectable deal that I was satisfied with and finished with just under $32k with an extended warranty and GAP ins.

The reason I give it an OK experience is that it had 292mi when I took it off lot. It was a dealer locate which they did not check, or claimed they didn't check, the mileage on before assigning a driver to make the dealer trade. I could have backed out of the deal, but decide not to as I am positive it will be fine with almost half of break-in completed. I could have pushed more with this on them, but I was already pushing too much on the deal, and it was a line walking deal to which I knew I could not push further without them killing any deal with getting the car I wanted.

Even with advertising industry my experience, I had to negotiate on my trade and command the deal. You have to understand there are limitations to what a dealer can to do make profit and their tolerances for being able to make your deal happen.

My recommendations on getting your best deal possible. Experiences will very, and no guarantees are had here. Just my opinions and observations from my experiences both in and out of the industry.
  • I chose to go with a larger well established dealer network/owner due to my trade. I am talking about a dealer with their family name on the building and owns multiple franchise locations from different manufacturers. Reason: They are usually able to cut costs of parts/labor by utilizing their other locations if they own your current brand, or have a comparable/competitive market brand. This could increase the ability to get a better price on your trade as it may give them an opportunity to sell the vehicle on one of their lots rather than take it to auction where they have limitation on negotiating a sale price. Cautions: When looking for a deal I try avoid larger corporate dealer networks as they work as such. IMO they operate that they have all the money and will only work a deal on behalf of the corporation with lower tolerances on trade-in prices (auction only prices on trades). As already stated, this may vary; shop around and get a better feel for your area. My recommendation on negotiating your trade-in: Be reasonable, rational, and realistic. Take the extra effort to make your trade presentable and be realistic on it's condition; Look at what your car would sell for on the private market vs dealer selling price, and take account of their position. Many dealerships will not take the risk to make a loser deal unless there's a reason.
  • I chose to start looking as soon as a refresh/model update was announced, not just that it was a bad ass car and I wanted to also get out of my former slow whip. It met what I wanted and seemed like an optimal time of the year and situation to buy. Usually you will find more incentives as early/mid-model refreshes are rolling out. Unfortunately, for most US regions it would appear Hyundai is only offering targeted qualified incentives or $500 customer cash. I think it's an alternative way to retain residual/resale value in the model on the used car market. I think this is an alternative/added strategy to the Assurance plan, not just the long power train warranty. To this point I had to focus on the purchase price on my trade and eliminating any attempts at unnecessary mark-up and addendumized (dealer added/installed items) additions to the vehicle cost.
  • Addendum additions to vehicle costs. These are always negotiable. These are added items such as door edge guards, rims, window tint, protective films/coatings, added to increase gross on the vehicle sale. Usually these are marked up well over, or upto, 100% of the cost to part/install these items. Usually you can get these done by tint/detail shops, or individuals, that offer their services at a way more competitive price and have better quality material alternatives. The items are usually marked higher so that the dealer can take their cut as a 'convenience fee' for doing the work already instead of having you contact those aforementioned service providers. My recommendation on addendum items: Do you due diligence on what you might want to add the car and know the price. I use the mentality that anything the dealer has added can be removed if they want me to purchase the vehicle, or they can provide me another unit without the items added. If they cannot provide another unit, they will most likely offer the items without charge or have them removed, example rims, if they can be removed without damaging the vehicle. Put the buying power in your favor with these items.
  • Buying power of the customer. I am in control of my purchasing decisions. I go into making large purchases knowing a majority of what I want out of the deal. I wanted my White VN PP at a good price to offset the amount owed on my former car financed note vs the possible actual cash value(acv). You may have other areas you'd like to focus on, mine was vehicle cost and trade value. If I don't get what I want I am not inclined to pay for it other than my personal obligations to myself. The vehicle cost and trade acv are the most critical aspects of the purchase for getting what you want in your best interests. Actual cash value is basically what someone would pay for it, anyone, but it must be apples to apples. You can't take a private party price and compare it to a dealer trade-in price; a dealer will always need to make money on the deal somewhere and with trade-ins/used cars that usually the spot; they also have to account for inspections and repairs need to make the car ready for lot or auction. Most places will say go to Carmax and they will give you a no-haggle car value. Though somewhat accurate to actual valuation on the nation wide closed auction prices, the Carmax estimation can, and should still be, negotiated with the dealer you plan to do business with other than Carmax as they don't haggle on trades, to my knowledge. A dedicated dealership will not have you go to another dealership to get this valuation, and if they do, they are most likely attempting to punt the trade since it may not be doable for the price your asking from them on your trade. However, I recommend shopping around. Tell them that your shopping around, and realistically you do not need to test drive the new car at every dealership you go to. If you say you've already test drove it at another dealer they will most likely take that as you are serious with running actual numbers and a serious buyer. (Look before you leap)
  • Financing can be troublesome if you let it be. No one has a crystal ball, however educated guesses/estimations are practical. Financing is only applicable to you personal financial situations. In your best interests, make the decisions that are best for you that you are able to live with. When it comes to financing you have several options. For me I usually don't finance unless I have to, which is usually always, but the less you finance the better you will be. I'm living within my means, but unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to have a debt free college education or early nest egg/savings to leverage towards big purchases without assuming debt. I don't want to have to wait until I'm much older to enjoy my youth, only to regret not doing it while I can enjoy everything it has to offer. With this I try to assume debt with the lowest interest rates possible while financing in terms that seem practical to the depreciation of the thing I'm purchasing. Vehicles are usually depreciating assets outside super/hyper/antique models. For this reason I never try to finance longer than 5-6 years on a car. I found this is the sweet spot for me. I try to include GAP insurance and an extended warranty for coverage on the terms of my note so that if things go tits up it can be handled without large cash out of pocket. Fortunately in my state the only insurance required on financing a new car is comprehensive, which I would never go without. So for me anything after negotiating the cost of the trade and car are 100% negotiable or ancillary in nature and aren't needed. Watch the small print on anything in service contacts, wheel insurance, or anything being sold in the finance office. I usually reach out to my bank that has my checking account, personally, to see what rate I will qualify for and what amount they will finance on the vehicle. Since I am a member they usually have a discounted or member rate that I can utilize with more flexible terms than the brand/dealer's financing bank. This helps gauge what I can spend my money on and dictate what the selling price of the car should be to accommodate my spending limit and monthly payments.
OK so I am tired, it's late here, and I have work tomorrow. Apologies for the novel here, but I felt I would provide some helpful info that people may be able to use when looking at this thread. The out of the door price includes many variables and factors to an individual's situation. Dealers negotiate on these factors and incentives. So those whom may be looking for a deal may want to take these factors into considerations. What price someone may get may not be the one you get depending on some of the factors I've explained.

TL;DR: Be reasonable, rational, and realistic. If you want something do your due diligence and research to get the best deal possible.
Literally the best possible explaination!
 
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