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Hey guys, I come from a background of motorcycle road racing and just in the past year have gotten into cars. I started with an R-spec for 8 months then switched to the N. Loving the car so far, but I feel like I am losing a little from the tires. I'm not sure what pressures are best, but I know I am having an understeer issue, clearly from the pictures lol. Any help and advise is appreciated.
Pictures are from today on a ' Mexican ' mountain road, 59°f ambient temp, 77°f road temp. Tire pressure was at 37 front 34 rear hot. Tire temps after a quick turn around wear ( from inside to out ) 137° 131° and 122° on the front left. Rear was at 126° 121° and 117°.
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First thing I would do is take the car to a reputable shop to check the alignment. "Understeer" and "uneven tire wear" scream bad alignment to me. I haven't had any understeer issues in my VN with the eLSD on no matter how hard I've tried to push the car, but then again I've checked that my alignment is within spec.
 

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First thing I would do is take the car to a reputable shop to check the alignment. "Understeer" and "uneven tire wear" scream bad alignment to me. I haven't had any understeer issues in my VN with the eLSD on no matter how hard I've tried to push the car, but then again I've checked that my alignment is within spec.
I just had everything rotated, balanced and aligned about 700 miles ago, but I definitely won't rule that out as a possibility. I did hit a really bad pothole at the Dragon a couple weeks ago, and it has mainly been the left side since then.
I'm not sure it isn't cold tear, and I'm just not letting them warm up enough before laying into them, I'm just not familiar with what it looks like on a car tire. I have wondered if the Michelins on the R-spec warm up quicker and that is just what I'm used to. Warm up laps are hard though, its like trying to make yourself actually stretch before an exercise lol.
Thanks for the advice!
 

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This is what happens when you are camber limited in a front wheel drive, nose heavy car. For sure get your alignment checked, but if you are driving it as hard as you say you are and sending it hard enough to understeer at corner entry or mid-corner then it's partially because you're overcooking the tires and partially because the car is camber limited in stock form.

Short of dialing it in and not sending it so hard, your only options are more camber or higher pressures. You have a ton of sidewall roll going on as well, which means you need more pressure. You shouldn't see wear past the edge of the tread or the little arrows that are there.

Next time you're out, put a vertical chalk line down the sidewall and see how much wears off -- that will show you much sidewall rollover you have going on. From the pictures, it's a lot.
 

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Great discussion. Thanks for the post and discussion. I tracked my car over a weekend 10 sessions of 15 to 20 minutes each, a total of 170 track miles. I had 255x35x18 Hoosier race tires (which were decent used tires given to me by a friend). I have whatever the factory alignment was. When pushing the car hard, I got understeer. In retrospect my tire pressures could have been better. I have Since bought camber bolts and plan on getting an alignment (with another 1/2 degree defat I’ve camber on each corner to see how it works. It will be a compromise between wear on my PZeros driven on the street and the Hoosiers on the track.
 

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There's already a lot of good advice here I think. Camber bolts are the easy solution for front camber. Should probably go without saying, but if you get camber bolts, make sure you check/align your front toe afterwards.

With my camber bolts at about -2.25 degrees front, front toe at 0, and TW200 tires, my experience has been fairly even wear on track up front.

I doubt the P-Zeros need much more warm up than a few turns worth, they're certainly more a street tire than a track tire in that sense.
 

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No camber will do that, get bolts as others have said.

Also im just putting thoughts out there, but it could also be from turning the wheel too much, scrubbing the front tyres, which would exasperate understeer. So watch out for that, ease into the corners with your foot (trailbraking) more than the wheel and roll into the throttle smoothly to keep traction in check and let the LSD do its thing.
 

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No camber will do that, get bolts as others have said.

Also im just putting thoughts out there, but it could also be from turning the wheel too much, scrubbing the front tyres, which would exasperate understeer. So watch out for that, ease into the corners with your foot (trailbraking) more than the wheel and roll into the throttle smoothly to keep traction in check and let the LSD do its thing.
This man trail brakes. :D
 

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You could also increase the rear tire pressure to decrease grip and get it to rotate more. I usually run more pressure in the rear than in the front to aid the turn in.

I have Whiteline camber bolts and set the camber to -1.6 at all four corners. It seemed to help a little bit with understeer and isn’t too much to DD with.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the great advice guys, im definitely going to get some camber bolts and try other things that were suggested.
Any of you guys have a link to some good camber bolts you would recommend? I'm also looking to get new wheels, any advice on brand and size would also be appreciated.
 

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Thanks for all the great advice guys, im definitely going to get some camber bolts and try other things that were suggested.
Any of you guys have a link to some good camber bolts you would recommend? I'm also looking to get new wheels, any advice on brand and size would also be appreciated.
SPC 14mm bolts.
 

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Yup, SPC or Whiteline should get the job done. I was able to achieve everything I wanted by getting Enkei TS-10 18x8.5 +50 wheel: Dropped 6lbs per corner, have more mechanical grip with the larger 245 tire, and have a larger sidewall (40) for a comfier ride and wheel protection against potholes. Keeping the offset nearly the same allows the OEM geometry to remain intact as I did not want to mess up the great feel of the steering.
 

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Yup, SPC or Whiteline should get the job done. I was able to achieve everything I wanted by getting Enkei TS-10 18x8.5 +50 wheel: Dropped 6lbs per corner, have more mechanical grip with the larger 245 tire, and have a larger sidewall (40) for a comfier ride and wheel protection against potholes. Keeping the offset nearly the same allows the OEM geometry to remain intact as I did not want to mess up the great feel of the steering.
My SPC camber bolts go in this coming Tuesday and I will get an alignment. My thoughts were to go to -1.5 from camber and -2 rear. What kind of (street use) tire wear are you seeing in the inside portion of the tire?
 

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Max out the front, and run a bit less on the rear. Anything less than -3.0 is nothing on the street, just run neutral toe and you'll be fine.
 

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My SPC camber bolts go in this coming Tuesday and I will get an alignment. My thoughts were to go to -1.5 from camber and -2 rear. What kind of (street use) tire wear are you seeing in the inside portion of the tire?
I have only put about 2,000 miles on the car since I got the bolts so it’s too early to tell. If the tire wear looks good on this set of tires I’ll probably go to -2 degrees in the front on the next set. My car is a DD that I run canyons with on the weekends so I’m keeping the camber fairly mild. I do not track the car.

I wouldn’t decrease camber at the rear, this car already wants to understeer. Decreasing the front tires only will make it more neutral. These bolts combined with a bigger rear sway bar have helped my car a lot.
 
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