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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ever wonder what the specs are of the OEM Infinity Audio system on our second-gen Velosters? I have

The Harman website describes our system as 7 speakers & 350W. It has discrete front channels, a center woofer, and a small sub w/ a paired passive radiator.

Is this purely analog? Of course not, so here is where I dug further!

The heart of this system is the amplifier unit under the passenger seat. It receives, among other things, fused power, CAN-BUS signal, and audio input through a three-wire SPIF connection to the head unit. You won't be able to replace or live without this amp very easily.


  • Front Speakers - Woofer & tweeter in parallel, wired to 2Ohm at amp
    • Split for the passenger side is at a connector just below the door grommet.
    • Tweeters have a small filtering cap attached.
    • FR - Or(-)/Gr(+)
    • FL - Or+Bk(-)/Gr+Bk(+)
  • Center - 2 Ohm
    • Bl(-)/Rd(+)
  • Rear - 3.4Ohm full range
    • RR - Wh(-)/Br(+)
    • RL - Bk(-)/Yl(+)
  • Subwoofer - Dual 2 Ohm Voice coils
    • VC1 - Or(-)/Gr(+)
    • VC2 - Bl(-)/Pk(+)
Now time for the really nerdy stuff: Frequency response graphs. I made a homemade signal RTA out of a line-input adapter, a $10 LOC, and the Audiotool app. I then wired this into each speaker signal to see what each speaker sees from a white noise signal and all the sliders set to 0. Ideally, we would want to see a flat line on the fronts/rears and a smooth roll-off on the center. Nope





Should you use a microphone-based RTA, you'd notice that this system is all bass no -treble when the speakers start moving. The front and center channels are heavily filtered from the amplifier. I'll do some more testing with the sliders adjusted (ran out of daylight). However, my takeaways for speaker replacement are as follows.
  • Best option is to get a signal-summing line output converter or digital signal processor. Tag into all the channels after the OEM amp and send that to an aftermarket amp. You just spent $200-$1200 on one (worth it) component, have fun.
  • You can try to replicate the factory system, matching the impedance and frequency response of the OEM speakers.
    • The fronts have a V-shaped input heavily biased in the higher frequencies - 7.5db/Octave 1-4kHz - 15db/Octave 4kHz. they're otherwise fairly flat.
    • The center picks up 1-2k.
    • Rears are much flatter
    • lol @ fucking with the sub.

What if you don't have the infinity audio systems (looking at you base models)? You'd have a simple 6 speaker system with parallel fronts, and likely similar wire colors. Chances are these run off an unfiltered signal from the head unit, so speaker replacement for any aftermarket units would be a breeze.
 

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Interesting... What of the head-unit? Has anyone (or you) looked at the output pins of the harness for analog/line outs?

Nice write-up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Interesting... What of the head-unit? Has anyone (or you) looked at the output pins of the harness for analog/line outs?
It's very unlikely that they would have both analog/line outs and SPDIF output. The best-case would be if Hyundai uses the same radio PN for both amplified and non-amplified systems AND left the (unused) speakers outputs partially wired at the radio harness. I don't feel like disassembling my dash, so I'm going to wager against that. If someone else feels adventurous or has access to the radio connector views, the non-amp speaker wires are colored identically to the infinity system. Either that or put on a lab coat and re-pin what's missing
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you think the new JBL system in the 2021+ MY cars is gonna be better or about the same?
JBL and Infinity are both Harman-Samsung. In the aftermarket world, their product lines are suspiciously similar. I'd wager that it'll just be a re-brand.
 

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JBL and Infinity are both Harman-Samsung. In the aftermarket world, their product lines are suspiciously similar. I'd wager that it'll just be a re-brand.
As someone that literally just left Harman (pro division), I can tell you that it's going to be a rebrand. Harman loves using the name of well-known brands.
 

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Okay, dumb question... So would replacing the front door speakers with a full range speaker improve (even out) the output? Would a standard Ohm speaker even work or offer any improvement in performance?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, dumb question... So would replacing the front door speakers with a full range speaker improve (even out) the output? Would a standard Ohm speaker even work or offer any improvement in performance?
Keep in mind that what I measured was the signal input to the speakers, rather than the sound output which you could measure with a calibrated microphone. To replace the speakers you'd need aftermarket drivers of the same impedance (ohms). It could help or hurt the quality. We know that aftermarket speakers want a relatively level input.
 

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Well that’s definitely what it sounds like. Are you fairly certain it’s the amplifier filtering/boosting the frequencies to each speaker and not the head unit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well that’s definitely what it sounds like. Are you fairly certain it’s the amplifier filtering/boosting the frequencies to each speaker and not the head unit?
It could be either but it doesn't matter as much since you can't have sound either one of em. I gathered my RTA graphs using BT input. I have yet to measure again while playing with the limited bass/mid/treble sliders on the HU.
 

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Cool, I also just found this info. I have been searching because I knew there was something being tweaked in the signal. I can hear what sounds like audio pixelation in the mid/high end. Often in the same frequency as the wash out of some crash cymbals. If it wasnt for that I actually kinda like the sound system. But this is the culprat
.
2819
 

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Cool, I also just found this info. I have been searching because I knew there was something being tweaked in the signal. I can hear what sounds like audio pixelation in the mid/high end. Often in the same frequency as the wash out of some crash cymbals. If it wasnt for that I actually kinda like the sound system. But this is the culprat
. View attachment 2819
I hate it Sooooo much! Do you think it could be programmed out?
 

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If I'm reading this correctly, the "Clari-Fi" processing is in the amp module that ...does everything. So, if you can break-out the SPDIF input wires, you could use a DAC feeding 2-channel AMP into a 3-way crossover out to all the speakers (with a summing module for the "center" speaker). Ugh...
 

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Yeah, I dont understand the acronyms, but it sound expensive and painful. From what Im understanding to bypass the amp you want to split signals from the the head unit and adding 3 modules. Amp 3 way out plus what ever a center channel requires.


Do you think there is anyway to shut down the sound altering system within the existing amp?
 

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After pondering it a bit more, my suggestion would likely also require a module to accept the CANBUS messages from the head-unit (volume control, tone/EQ, balance/fade, etc). sigh

Do you think there is anyway to shut down the sound altering system within the existing amp?
Probably not. I'm sure that DSP (processing) is baked in at the DAC (digital-to-analog converter) unfortunately.
 

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Fair enough. You seem quite knowledgeable on this subject. If you were to venture a guess. What products would you need to complete a mod like this and what sort of cost are we talking. And then I guess would you be able to make it work space efficently and retain an OEM appearance? Sorry for all the questions.
 

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While I appreciate your vote of confidence, I haven't been a 'car audio guy' in a L O N G time. I am a home theater/hi-fi nerd ( I do NOT label myself an audiophile... ;) ). At first, I was thinking about a small DAC like Schiit Modi (USB powered) that would take the digital (SPDIF) out from the head unit to give a decent analog out for amplification. I'm sure there are better places to look for car audio components, but I found some decent options for crossovers and amps on Crutchfield. I know there are a few modules out on the market that offer plug-and-play capabilities with respect to CANBUS signalling, but I have no idea if any of them would work with the VN.

As MalcomSex stated, there's probably no easy or cheap way to bypass that OEM amp, unfortunately.
 

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The system is not bad at all. So if I just wanted to add more over loudness, would adding a pair of 6x9’s with a small amp be a good way to go? I would just need to add the lc2i, correct? Velcro the boxes to the back of the back seats maybe.
 

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No, doesn’t sound like there’s an easy way to add much of anything worthwhile to this system. Best choices seem to be leave it as is or go all out by replacing most everything.
 

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If one were to replace the two rear speakers for something like a pair of Infinity Reference 6532IX, how hard would this be? Would they work/fit? Translating the 16 cm to inches, it's 6.3 inches, I'm assuming that would fit? Also, does anyone know of any fancy bracketing that would need to be done to mount them? Either in the door, or the side panel?...
 
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