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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This was delivered today and it’s going to be some time before I can get it installed, but wanted to provide some close-up shots in the meantime for those who are interested:
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Can’t wait to get it installed! Came in a nice fabric bag, too. Unfortunately some of the foam melted onto the fabric, but who cares it’s just a bag.
I’ll post up some install pictures and comments, and update this thread when I get a chance to work on the car.
 

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This was delivered today and it’s going to be some time before I can get it installed, but wanted to provide some close-up shots in the meantime for those who are interested:
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Can’t wait to get it installed! Came in a nice fabric bag, too. Unfortunately some of the foam melted onto the fabric, but who cares it’s just a bag.
I’ll post up some install pictures and comments, and update this thread when I get a chance to work on the car.
I'm very interested in this it's such a beautiful peice... I'm in Canada and it's $539US so with exchange rate and shipping and tax it's closer to $750 for me... Don't know if I can stomach that lol... A custom fabrication shop down here said they could build me a dual catch can setup for $450. But I just love that forge unit and how it's combines the coolant tank Aswell it's just a thing of beauty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That’s what sold me on it as well. I didn’t like the look of the catch can mounting options currently available. The fact that this is so clean seals the deal for me.
At the price you would have to pay, though, I would seriously second-guess it as well!
 

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Developmental Thread for the
Hyundai i30N/Veloster N Dual Catch Can and Expansion Tank
It's an outstanding kit that combines all the assets of the CCV, PCV CC"s and Expansion Tank, wrapped all into one. No need for individual mounting and hose locations. Fills the void of the expansion tank directly and routes all hoses into one location for easy maintenance. Installation is easy, concise and fool proof. everything fits just a it needs to. Everything is included in the kit for ease of installation. All the braided hose are of different lengths and specific to the engine location and tank fitting. Just follow the instruction as provided and it's virtually novice proof.

When you combine the cost of purchasing both CCV and PCV CC's, along with a new expansion tank, the cost is less and it takes up far less space. The Hyundai OEM PVC expansion tanks have a tendency after a couple of years use, engine heat (heat soak) movement crack and require replacement. It's happened now on quite a few i30N's at the top of the mounting lugs and the tanks leak. The expansion tank holds the same amount of coolant. Both the CC's have drains and dip sticks installed so they're easy to maintain. The entire tank being made of aluminum alloy. It's nearly impervious to wear or rust, backed by
limited lifetime warranty.

It's one of the best modifications for longevity of the tank & engine from wear and tear. It also provides the necessary filtering of fuel/oil vapor, which turns into carbon deposits on intake valves TB, FI Nozzles, Fuel Rails etc.

It's a great performance minded addition to the Veloster N. The photos below demonstrate how it's installed and final assemble. Click on the photo to enlarge;
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The bottom of each CC, has a drain on the bottom. A standard wrench is used to remove them. No since reinventing the wheel, so I'm borrowing from one of @Chuckable photos as shown;
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Drop the hoses on the front of the tank above the drain. Use a plastic or metal flat pan, cup or plastic spray can top, remove the drain plugs, with the proper sized socket, dip sticks and drain right into the pan or cup. Reinstall as necessary and you're done.

If you look at the position of the hose attachment in the above photo, the drains have been positioned where all you have to do is remove the two hoses nearest the drain.The height of the tank provides ample space for the cup or metal tray to drain the liquid into. Easy peasy!!!:)(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Still not done with the install, but in the meantime wanted to provide some information and tips for those contemplating this product.

Bought one of these cheap hand pumps at the parts store and got the majority of the coolant out of the stock reservoir. Totally worth the $6 spent.
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Ended up getting the majority of the coolant out.
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Just don’t spill the rest of the coolant out of the reservoir when you’re walking back to the bench with the reservoir in your hand and let it tip just enough for the remaining coolant to pour out. Ask me how I know!

I used plastic hose pliers to gently pinch off both lines and barely got any drips of coolant out of them. You can do this job without losing a drop of coolant if you’re very careful and take your time.
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
When you install the catch can, put some protection on the side that faces the engine to avoid scratching the finish.
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And beware how close it is to contacting the chassis seam.
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There is also a portion of the engine mount that sits very close to the bottom of the catch can.
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The spring clamp on the intake manifold must’ve been fitted before the manifold was installed on the head because it’s buried in there in an orientation that made it a pain to remove! Had to use a very long needle nose vise grip to reach and twist.
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The injector clip pulls up and then rotates. Be gentle with it.
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The factory fitting on the valve cover was a bit loose when I removed the stock line. Might want to double check it while it’s accessible.
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
A few issues I’ve run into that my perfectionist tendencies won’t let go:
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1) When you run the hoses per the instructions the engine cover just doesn’t fit down easily. I’ve read all the posts and pictures about this issue and eventually got it to work by reorienting the lines and removing a barely noticeable section of foam from the underside of the cover. The engine cover now fits well.

2) No matter how I orient the coolant hose or the catch can hoses, the coolant hose rests on the fitting. I was halfway through coming up with a new hose that would remedy this issue when I decided I didn’t want to introduce non-factory hoses and fittings into the coolant system, so I’m just going to insulate the hose where it contacts the fitting.
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(Stole this shot 👇from a guy on IG who just did the install as well. Mine looks exactly like his, too.)
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3) The hoses run very close to the engine mount as well as have a tight fit between the valve cover and intake manifold. Some abrasion resistant sheathing would have been nice to include in the kit. I bought some from Amazon to replace the plastic conduit I had on and am waiting on it to arrive.
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(Note: I know this hose is routed wrong here. It’s from an earlier point in my install.)

4) The kit should have included a loop clamp for the hose that runs over the turbo. You can see that RedVN added one and I will as well.
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5) As elegant as the rear bracket for the VN is, I don’t like that it uses the cowl as an attachment point. I’m going to have a local race/fab shop make up a bracket that uses the factory mounting hole instead.
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Nice job and thank you for posting the photos and responses. I'll provide some feedback to Forge Motorsport.
5) As elegant as the rear bracket for the VN is, I don’t like that it uses the cowl as an attachment point. I’m going to have a local race/fab shop make up a bracket that uses the factory mounting hole instead.
@Chuckable don't worry or be concerned about the rear mount position, it's super sturdy and doesn't move. It will not crush the cowl either. I torqued mine at around 35-40+ ft lbs. Being it goes thru to the wheel well, it was the easiest and strongest point to accommodate the bracket. There's no factory torque specification. The cowl is part of the chassis. I actually over torqued the points then grabbed the tank with both hands and purposefully attempted to move it. It's quite strong and I wasn't able to budge it enough, even to touch the underside of the tank to the chassis on the front driver side. We utilized the original bracket position, as not to interfere or have to fabricate a complicated bracket.

I was aware of the other mounting point and looked at it with some hope of mounting it there. However, such a bracket would not provide the strength and stability as the original location. There is too much side to side movement with it mounted to this location. Additionally, I didn't want to damage the tank finish by having to weld another bracket to the underside of the tank. This would be the ideal location but I had to take in consideration the integrity of the tank as well. We didn't want a complicated the production of the tank and make it specifically for the VN. The idea was to keep the current production tank for the i30N and appropriately adapt it to the VN. With more complexity, comes more cost for production. The longer the bracket, the more movement with the tank.

You are correct, I did utilize an addition hose clamp for the longer intake tube. With its location close to the turbo heat shield, I thought it best to add it. I'm a trained reciprocating and jet aircraft mechanic. I've seen what high heat can do to even braided lines quickly and they're utilized prodigiously in such high heat applications.

The cowling and hose routing are a matter of placement. If you look at the photos I provided, I'm utilizing the Forge Motorsport CF engine cover. It doesn't have the formed foam rubber cushion attached and it fits lower to the valve cover as well. You'll have to remove the foam rubber or trim it to facilitate the hose positions as I have them. The instructions are the same for the i30N which are provided. If trimming is not an option, then remove it and use of adhesive backed foam rubber piece in its place, if you believe you need it. I'll mock up mine to demonstrate it, if you require some additional guidance.

The overflow hose position is a simply means of removing, twisting and repositioning, as in the photos. Neither tank or hose moves in relationship to the engine movement. I'm actually replacing the OEM overflow hose, with a matching braided unit and fittings. I'll be happy to post photos and supplier of the overflow hose.

The upper engine mount clearance is not an issue, as the upper mount base is static and the internal mount and rubber moves laterally, not vertically. So nothing to be concerned about. I have an increased amount of clearance due to use of the Turbo Tech Racing upper and lower motor mounts.

Thank you once again for posting your installation and impressions. I'll be happy to provide some additional feedback to Forge Motorsport.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Thanks for the compliment, VelosterturboN. And RedVN, thanks for the thorough response.

The install is completed so I’ll post some final pictures and thoughts:

It’s probably overkill, but I added some heat shielding to the line that runs over the turbo.
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Also added some protective sheath over the portions of the lines that are likely to rub.
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After a lot of thought and consideration, including RedVN’s reasoning for the bracket being the way it is, decided to reinstall and keep it.
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Added some rubber hose as an insulator to the coolant reservoir formed hose. No matter how I reoriented it, the hose would not provide adequate clearance.
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And after additional trimming of the foam under the engine cover, it now fits better.
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Filled the reservoir back up and it took roughly exactly the amount of the stock tank. I noticed the stock tank is heavily baffled, so wonder what the internals of the coolant portion look like. Come to think of it, I also wonder what Forge are using as the media and filter for the catch can portion?

In any case, this is a high quality kit that is just a bit short of perfection.
 

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Thanks for the compliment, VelosterturboN. And RedVN, thanks for the thorough response.

The install is completed so I’ll post some final pictures and thoughts:

It’s probably overkill, but I added some heat shielding to the line that runs over the turbo.
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Also added some protective sheath over the portions of the lines that are likely to rub.
View attachment 4366

After a lot of thought and consideration, including RedVN’s reasoning for the bracket being the way it is, decided to reinstall and keep it.
View attachment 4367

Added some rubber hose as an insulator to the coolant reservoir formed hose. No matter how I reoriented it, the hose would not provide adequate clearance.
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And after additional trimming of the foam under the engine cover, it now fits better.
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Filled the reservoir back up and it took roughly exactly the amount of the stock tank. I noticed the stock tank is heavily baffled, so wonder what the internals of the coolant portion look like. Come to think of it, I also wonder what Forge are using as the media and filter for the catch can portion?

In any case, this is a high quality kit that is just a bit short of perfection.
You're welcome and nice job especially the added detail. Everyone sees things a little differently and is good, keeps us all on our toes.:)
Just keep in mind, nothing's perfect. For the CC to work properly, it needs a little heat on and in the tubing and the CC. This keep everything fluid and in motion. Check the tubing and CC more often than at oil change, to ensure there is no carbon buildup in the hose itself. Once you've established theres no issue the resume checking at oil changes.

To answer your question; no media (like explosafe or steel wool) but baffles.

For any installation nicks, use a Sharpie black marker for touch up. Works well and you can recover if marks reappears after cleaning. If you need to adjust or straighten the tank, simply grasp it with both hands on either side and tweak as necessary.
 

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Got my catch can in and installed it. The thing truly is beautiful. I wont bother trying to write up something as wonderful as @Chuckable but I will give my 2 cents for my view and differences in experience.

1) If you don't have patience, find some before you buy the forge catch can.

2) Judging by the pictures from Red and Chuck... The hose I received are not the same lengths. Specifically the two catch can input hoses. I obviously can't say if this is just my kit, or a tolerance issue with the design. With the length of hose I had, I could not get the hose to lay where they are supposed to by kit design unless I through a loop in. (Side note : where the hoses are supposed to lay is extremely cramped)
After trying my best to get everything to lay as instructed I gave up and spent 1.5 hours trying different route combinations. I eventually found one that worked for the hose lengths, and allowed enough freedom for the engine to move and not tug on the stationary (frame mounted) catch can. Below you can see just how much more hose I had in my kit that caused me a good amount of annoyance.
Chuck's Hoses
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Mine
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3) I am the type that researches anything over $10 to death. I looked all over the interwebs and found some very good writes ups, including Chuck and Red. However... Nobody mentioned the blind washer / nut install for the little bracket at the top. Can you reach it, yes. Can you do it while holding a washer and nut in alignment, no. With the car raised and wheel turned you can get you arm in there easy. With my flattened out hang I could reach past the spring and touch the bolt. What I couldn't do though was reach my hand in there with anything but a completely flat hand making it impossible to hold that nut / washer in alignment and make it to the bolt. Whenever you drop the nut or washer they fall into the fender wall plastics, and if you're lucky down to the bottom engine cover. If not, start fishing in the wheel well. I ended up getting my low profile socket on a 6 inch extension, and adding a second nut in the bottom of the socket so the correct nut sat flush with the top. I then added a dab of Vaseline to make the washer stick to the face of the socket. (Magnets don't work well on stainless steel). After that, it was just a matter of 5 mins of going slow. So, unless you have a toddler sized hand, save yourself some grief and just start where I finished.


4) My catch can sits too high and I'm not really sure what to do about it at the moment. From a side glance you can tell that the coolant input is angled up. I am afraid that if I try to bend it down with how it is welded that it will just kink the tube. But it is rubbing into the underside of my hood on the insulator. I can't have my car down, so I guess I am just going to have to think up a work around. If anyone has an idea... Please feel free to share it.
-Update-
There was no other solution. The tube bent down easy with no kinks. Hood clearance issue resolved.
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5) As you can tell from my pics, I added some automotive grade sleeves to the hoses like Chuck. (Thanks @Chuckable ) I am of the same opinion that the pinch points and rubbing is too great for the beautiful, but easy to damage weave around the hoses.

6) Start this last one with; I know that I am not the smartest or end all solution to design.
I have worked in the automotive industry for 20 years as a Quality Engineer and Design Engineer. I have an Electrical Engineering degree and have extensive training in Injection Molding and Mechanical Engineering. I have been in every automotive plant in North America and a couple dozen elsewhere in the world. So, I have seen my fair share of assembly methods and designs.
MY OPINION! This kit is beautiful and from the 30,000 feet view functional. However, when you get down to the details, Forge seems to have taken a form over function approach. The way they have the hoses ran puts pressure on electrical harnesses, and the hoses themselves. They need to take a VERY hard look at how they design them to run. When the engine is off and stationary you can let the touch points slide, but not when the engine is being put under load. What I mean by this is... the hoses touch a harness or an engine mount and then a short travel to the catch can. When you are in N mode and press on the gas that engine is not stationary, it torques a good bit. With that in mind think of this :
The engine torques and all the harnesses attached to it move with it. The frame mounted catch can and frame side of the engine mounts don't move with the engine. All of that movement between the two pulls on the hoses and anything else they touch from the last anchor point to the catch can. That is a lot of stress under heat to everything on the left side of the engine. I would rather see the two larger hoses go up the left side of the engine up and around. That would allow them additional room to run the smaller hoses where they already suggest and not be under so much stress.
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Final Thoughts :
Would I suggests this buy to others. Yes
Would I warn them that it is not a direct bolt on application and will require them to purchase additional materials and do a little garage engineering. Yes.

Considering everything, it is a beautiful and great addition to my engine bay. I am satisfied with my purchase, but I also enjoy the "working for solutions" garage time.

For the price tag, Forge has some home work to do.

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