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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First track day NASA HPDE4 - Nola motorsports park Avondale,LA temps 60 morning-75 evening degrees ~50% humidity all day
2.75 mile loop
Track is bumpy in some high speed sections and especially in the large braking zone at the end of the straight.
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Car mode - N custom suspension:sport esc\lsd:eek:ff everything else highest setting

Current mods - camber bolts,aem cai,sxth fmic,peirce front strut bar,add a1 stage1 catch, traklight18X8\nitto nt01 245/40, synthetic fluids everywhere

Current OD - 1,025 miles

Logged a total of 35 laps in four 20min session

Best lap came in my last session 2:04 below are some of my times in other cars at this track.
*1:59 full race prep BMW e36 s54 swap(310whp\2800lbs)
*2:02 2017 Mustang gt350r(526whp\3800lbs)
*2:04 full race prep spec miata(?)
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Best lap app measured 1.38g in braking zone and 1.23g left turn and right 1.13g
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Top speed - down straight was 5th gear 125mph. Best lap top speed was 123mph

Tires Nitto nt01 treadwear 100 245/40r18
I rotated front to back at lunch so roughly after 17 laps
Best lap came in last session of the day outside temps @75 degrees cold pressures 28F/35R hot 38F/40RR-41LR
Fronts were jumping 10psi every session
Rear were jumping 4-5psi every session
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Burned ~20gallons of gas. Best laps came with ½ tank,running a full tank cost me ~almost 1 sec.

Cargo space was more than capable - 4 traklight wheels, arctic icechest, folding chair, jack and two stands, rubber mat, torque wrench, helmet, and few other misc things.

Oil temps - stayed between 250-275 pennzoil 5w-30 ultra platinum /w liqui moly 8.5oz ceratec

Water gauge - never moved 50% anti-freeze\deionized water and 50% redline water wetter\deionized water

Brakes - Pedal feel was amazing, never faded, initial bite was strong all day all stock except for fluids motul rbf600. It does squirm at the limit but never felt out of control.

Steering - i got all the feedback i needed and weight was great.

Rev match - my first time with this option and it was awesome for downshifting at the limit. I won’t miss manual rev matching. I didn’t miss a shift all day.

Suspension\driving - I’m glad i had the front camber bolts installed because I smoked the front left outside edges of the tires no matter what pressures. I recorded a +40 degree difference from outside to inside surface temps. I was just using an infrared temp gun 180 outside and 140 inside. Rear tires were 120-125 across.

I played with the pressures every session and best laps came with rear pressures hot in the 40+ range. This is similar to what I experienced racing my nissan sentra fwd. I didn’t have the ability to use the throttle to manage rotation especially mid corner or in long radius turns. The VN wasn’t responding to that so I was really focusing all day on getting down my brake zones and making sure i was turning in perfectly because once you committed the turn there wasn’t much correction afterwards. It was the first time I heard nitto’s howling and I’ve used these tires since 2007. However when you got that right, it corners with the best of cars on track. I was able to stay in close to m3, c7, and gt350r in the twistys.

I ordered the whiteline rear bar this morning and lower motor mount. I’m hoping to fix some of the tire rollover and have the ability to use the throttle to induce some at the limit oversteer. I also have the pierce 4pt lower brace that needs to be installed. I am hoping to see some reputable front camber plates hit the market soon. I may reach out to Genracer and see what they are using on the Touring track car builds to get more front camber.

I may have left some important things out and I’m sure some of this information has been discussed here so sorry if some of this info is redundant. Needless to say I’m excited about getting these few mods installed and can’t wait for the next track day. Ask me any questions and I’ll do my best to get back with you.
 

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Was reading through and got to the part where you were talking about not being about to manage rotation with throttle and I immediately thought "this guy needs a rear bar" and then your next paragraph covered that!

With a rear bar and higher pressures in the rear (I typically run 36/39 hot on track) it is extremely easy to get rotation out of the car with throttle.

Great write up!
 

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I had an extreme front outer shoulder wear issue last year. At first I suspected insufficient camber, but I think it turned out to be an extreme case of front toe-in. Can't say its the same in your case, but do you know your front camber and toe settings?

I installed camber bolts in summer of last year, maxed them out, and didn't make any toe adjustments then or thereafter last year. I then proceeded to destroy my stock tires' outer shoulders over the course of 2 trackdays and street driving until I put my winters on.

At first I thought I must have had insufficient camber causing the extreme shoulder wear on track...but this spring I did a string alignment. I was surprised to find I had extreme front toe-in, like more than .5 deg front toe-in. I immediately zeroed my front toe. I installed a second set of bolts too, but as a starting point barely set front camber beyond what one set can do: -2.25 deg.

With this setup I haven't had any extreme outer shoulder wear issues over 6 track days. Front tire temps measured by gun show ~65 C outside, ~72 C middle, 75 C inside. This year I've been on Hankook RS4s too, which would generate more roll and exacerbate shoulder wear issues if they were due to lack of camber. Considering how I only increased my front camber by maybe .25 deg, my issue must have been the toe-in.

My rears are very even at 55-60 C across with stock alignment settings. I also observe around 10psi jump front, 4-5 psi rear. I tend to run 38 psi front, usually around 36psi rear.

That looks like a nice track configuration. Good to find another track eNthusiast!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had an extreme front outer shoulder wear issue last year. At first I suspected insufficient camber, but I think it turned out to be an extreme case of front toe-in. Can't say its the same in your case, but do you know your front camber and toe settings?

I installed camber bolts in summer of last year, maxed them out, and didn't make any toe adjustments then or thereafter last year. I then proceeded to destroy my stock tires' outer shoulders over the course of 2 trackdays and street driving until I put my winters on.

At first I thought I must have had insufficient camber causing the extreme shoulder wear on track...but this spring I did a string alignment. I was surprised to find I had extreme front toe-in, like more than .5 deg front toe-in. I immediately zeroed my front toe. I installed a second set of bolts too, but as a starting point barely set front camber beyond what one set can do: -2.25 deg.

With this setup I haven't had any extreme outer shoulder wear issues over 6 track days. Front tire temps measured by gun show ~65 C outside, ~72 C middle, 75 C inside. This year I've been on Hankook RS4s too, which would generate more roll and exacerbate shoulder wear issues if they were due to lack of camber. Considering how I only increased my front camber by maybe .25 deg, my issue must have been the toe-in.

My rears are very even at 55-60 C across with stock alignment settings. I also observe around 10psi jump front, 4-5 psi rear. I tend to run 38 psi front, usually around 36psi rear.

That looks like a nice track configuration. Good to find another track eNthusiast!
That's a good point. I'm planning on getting an alignment soon. I'll definently post when I get the numbers.
 

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Im hoping good plates come out by the time I get my car... That said, have you considered just running staggered ? Was thinking going 18x9 fronts in 255/35, 18x8 rears in 225/40.
 

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Forge has some plates they just released. They look nice too.


Best regards,

-Mike
Seen some less than ideal feedback thus far... Any idea what the range is anyway ? Says -2.0 on the website but I hope its way more than that, otherwise whats the point lol.
 

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I really have no idea what the limits are. Maybe try contacting them. They have an office in Florida too for the US based market.

Br,

-Mike
 

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There is physically not a lot of space at the top of the fender for our stock struts to move towards the body. I've done some extensive measuring myself and came to conclude that getting around -2deg from a strut mount would be about as far as it can go.

Search up the Forge plates on n-cars.com, there were a few people saying that they raise the front end of the car. To me that crosses them off the list immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There is physically not a lot of space at the top of the fender for our stock struts to move towards the body. I've done some extensive measuring myself and came to conclude that getting around -2deg from a strut mount would be about as far as it can go.

Search up the Forge plates on n-cars.com, there were a few people saying that they raise the front end of the car. To me that crosses them off the list immediately.
Yeah I saw those posts too and there were a few other issues with those mounts. I am hoping the alignment and rear sway bar is going to solve most of my issue.
 

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@Melan
GenRacer uses Penske Dampers with adjustable camber + camber bolts. They also run it lower with Eibach springs. They get around -4.5 to -5.5 camber all around. They run SPL camber arms in the rear. They also run 18x10 lol so their car is on another level.

You definitely need stiffer rear bar and MORE camber in the rear. You can play around with pressures, but you will have bad tire wear once you go too high in the rear. Also lift off oversteer is not really for the track. You shouldn't be lifting off the gas to rotate the car. Instead, focus on trail braking into the corner and full throttle at apex.

It's sick that you have an intercooler. Stock, the car heat soaks sooooo bad. Cuts a lot of power last certain temps. It's amazing that you improved so much. Love the photos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@Melan
GenRacer uses Penske Dampers with adjustable camber + camber bolts. They also run it lower with Eibach springs. They get around -4.5 to -5.5 camber all around. They run SPL camber arms in the rear. They also run 18x10 lol so their car is on another level.

You definitely need stiffer rear bar and MORE camber in the rear. You can play around with pressures, but you will have bad tire wear once you go too high in the rear. Also lift off oversteer is not really for the track. You shouldn't be lifting off the gas to rotate the car. Instead, focus on trail braking into the corner and full throttle at apex.

It's sick that you have an intercooler. Stock, the car heat soaks sooooo bad. Cuts a lot of power last certain temps. It's amazing that you improved so much. Love the photos.
" Also lift off oversteer is not really for the track. You shouldn't be lifting off the gas to rotate the car." I definitely don't want to drift but I do like it a bit twitchy when I need it.

Just wondering how their cars are set up. I am sure they had to do some cutting and fabrication to get the top plate they needed. Otherwise, I think we'd see something on the aftermarket. Got the rear bar installed couple weeks ago and fixed the toe up front this morning. Hopefully my tires will thank me next track day.
 
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