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2020 RR PP
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently I purchased the AFE midpipe because the shoddy work on my resonator delete didn't make me feel comfortable using it for long.

When I disconnected the midpipe from the flex pipe, I noticed the lower part of the exhaust gasket was burnt to crap.

When I first installed the afe midpipe, I didn't tighten some of the clamps all the way and say water flowing out on an early morning which made me aware of the exhaust leak. I drove my son to school, came home and fixed it. From the axleback side, I noticed my new gasket was starting to get kind of burnt on the lower part as well.

Then, I also have this noise in the attached video.

Since I'm new to understanding vehicles still and just 'try' to put mods on as a learning experience, I'm trying to figure out if something is wrong, what I did wrong and how I can fix it myself.

I've pre-emptively ordered two new exhaust gaskets for each side of the midpipe.

I also noticed the right side of the exhaust tips are much blacker and retain heat way more than the left side. I can get pictures of that if anyone needs them.

My main concerns right now are:
  • What's this rattle in non n-mode?
  • Did I potentially install the gaskets incorrectly? How much damage can that cause before I can get them replaced professionally?
  • Why are parts of my pipe burnt, like the right exhaust tip and lower connections of the midpipe?
Any help would be much appreciated.

New video by Matthew Javelet - Here's the video with the weird exhaust sound. This was with no throttle and just from a cold start. I can make another vid with throttle applied to amplify the rattle in case you have trouble hearing it.

Basically, I want to make sure all my mods are properly installed. I bought the HPFP from SXTH and don't want to put it on until I know my car is mechanically in top shape.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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2020 PP Race Red//Fully Bolted
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124 Posts
Rattle could be a few things, the exhaust valve spring, potentially a loose bolt attaching the midpipe rattling and resonating through the exhaust, or a gasket impeding flow. I'm leaning towards the exhaust valve spring.

You can't cause damage from an exhaust leak that is after the 02 sensors. Other than sounding bad it won't hurt anything.

The right exhaust tip typically gets a little more soot/heat because when the valve is open is nearly a straight through design. Where the left pipe has a series of baffles and turns inside the muffler. The burnt stuff you are seeing at the bottom of flange connections is normal. Water typically condensates and drips from flanges bringing soot with it. Once the exhaust heats up it burns off the water and leaves the soot behind.
 

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2020 PP Race Red//Fully Bolted
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Tighten the slip fit clamps near the edge of the larger pipe to ensure best seal, torque to 35-40ftlb. Flange bolts could be torqued to the same but I usually just hit them with my little electric impact as they aren't as important to torque. Unless the gaskets are visibly damaged they should be good to use.

When you cold start the car, run back and shine a light into the right side pipe and watch the valve. It will move around as the car settles into warm idle. See if you notice the valve rattling around. If it is there is a Mopar spring you can replace it with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input man. I think I'm going to have my dealer reinstall the mid pipe with new exhaust gaskets just to be safe. My driveway sucks and I can't get the leverage I want to do the job and be satisfied. Until then I'll do your recommendation of checking the exhaust valve on cold start and get the Mopar replacement spring if I see it rattling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also, the clamp bolts were 19mm, so I torqued them to about 80ftlb. If they were 15mm I'd put them at about 45lbs. I torque everything tho, I only use my electric impact for removals
 

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Also, the clamp bolts were 19mm, so I torqued them to about 80ftlb. If they were 15mm I'd put them at about 45lbs. I torque everything tho, I only use my electric impact for removals
Smart man to always use a torque wrench. As do I but Ive taken my mid pipe off more than a hand full of times haha. My small electric impact is pretty low torque so I just zip I'm on there and bump it a couple times (2 ugga duggas to be exact lol) for the sake of speed. Won't hurt a 2 bolt flange but, I'd always torque slip fit clamps.

80ftlb is way too much on those clamps, it could deform the pipe. I'd back it down to 35-45 and check for leaks. Afe says 40-45 and borla says 35-40 so anywhere in that range is totally fine. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
At 45lbs those clamps did not hold the pipe in place and were why I had that visible leak from a cold start in the morning with lets of condensation. Literally saw water pouring out of them and I was able to wiggle the pipe and see it wasn't seated from the clamps.

I wish AFE and other vendors would include torque specs for their parts.

Maybe I should have the dealer re-do it all and I'll just do the exhaust spring and install that myself(just ordered it to be safe). The muffler shops around here are ran by old men who have a chip on their shoulder. Very hard to deal with civilly. I just wanted a quick opinion and they tried to make me wait until Monday. I literally had to offer one of their workers $5 to come and look at my burnt exhaust pipe for just a few seconds and to give his opinion(he thinks everything is fine from that aspect as that was all he could really investigate).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I found my gasket I took off. Believe this was the one that connected from the mid pipe to the flex pipe. Looks like I installed it incorrectly, huh?

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