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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Decided to drive up to Mt. Charleston this morning with my wife and daughter. The drive is pretty straightforward but you must climb about 8k feet in elevation over maybe 15 miles or so. The car did well with no loss of power, strange noises or smells but the oil temps sure climbed fast. And I was not pushing it hard at all. Driving 60-65. Never bogging the engine. Driving in 5th gear. Went down to 4th briefly but that made the temps rise even more abruptly. At one point I'm pretty sure I hit 250. Pulled over and took a shot of the dash where it was closer to 230-240 imo. Is this a concern running oil straight from the dealer? Would you pull over in this scenario?
 

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That's weird even at 78 degrees F. Mine never pass 200 (second "0") in a 115 degrees F Vegas heat...Im at 13K miles. Was your radiator fan running?
 

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Chalk White 2020 Veloster N w/PP
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Those gauges are not super accurate. Mine when I am just doing errands is not far from yours. I think you are fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's weird even at 78 degrees F. Mine never pass 200 (second "0") in a 115 degrees F Vegas heat...Im at 13K miles. Was your radiator fan running?
Yeah everything else was normal. Even picked a cooler time to go up there. Aside from the mountain trip the car is the same as what you report. Have you brought your N up to the mountains?
 

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Climbing elevation like that is a good amount of extra work even when you’re taking it easy, and maybe the thinner air up there is less effective at cooling. I’ve never seen mine more than 4 hashes past 200 (assuming 220?) but I don’t drive hard for extended periods. Either way yours isn’t dangerously high.
 

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I've seen mine just kiss the red (which is right around 260) on a 100 degree track day, but even then I was not concerned because:

  • You want your oil to be hotter than 212 to burn off deposits and water
  • Modern quality synthetic oils can withstand 300+ easily
 

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I am still not quite broken-in. Damn this working from home! I am in IT, so I think this is how I am going to be working from now on. I go into the office periodically, but not too often. My wife has planned a trip along Skyline Drive in Virginia. That will be slow and easy. When I lived out West tackling mountain roads was convenient, easy and fun. Pennsylvania is mostly rolling hills.
 

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Yeah everything else was normal. Even picked a cooler time to go up there. Aside from the mountain trip the car is the same as what you report. Have you brought your N up to the mountains?
Not in Mt Charleston. But I live near Lake Mead and I drive through the park everyday (work and back home) and have fun with the hills and curve roads. No issues with temps, but it is at lower elevation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not in Mt Charleston. But I live near Lake Mead and I drive through the park everyday (work and back home) and have fun with the hills and curve roads. No issues with temps, but it is at lower elevation.
I know exactly where you're talking about. I love that drive. Perfect roads for this car.
 

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If I'm doing some hard driving maybe touch 220. The intercooler and intake snorkel keep it pretty much around 190-200 consistently. Look into upgrading your intercooler and an intake snorkel. Helps with those iats for sure!
 

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If I'm doing some hard driving maybe touch 220. The intercooler and intake snorkel keep it pretty much around 190-200 consistently. Look into upgrading your intercooler and an intake snorkel. Helps with those iats for sure!
IATs have no affect on oil temps.
 

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IATs have no affect on oil temps.
Lower charge temps reduce heat in cylinders. Reducing potential chance of knock and excessive retard of timing from heat soak. So yes. They will.
 

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Lower charge temps reduce heat in cylinders. Reducing potential chance of knock and excessive retard of timing from heat soak. So yes. They will.
IATs more directly impact power than heat in the motor. Yes, IATs especially ones that are causing knock can cause higher engine temps and thus higher oil temps, however, you have more issues than oil temps if you're getting knock that badly.

Sure, as more heat enters the engine it can increase the oil temps, but IATs have much less affect on heat in the engine than the heat rejection of the engine itself. Just adding a larger FMIC and intake is not going to improve oil temps.
 

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View attachment 3206 View attachment 3206 Decided to drive up to Mt. Charleston this morning with my wife and daughter. The drive is pretty straightforward but you must climb about 8k feet in elevation over maybe 15 miles or so. The car did well with no loss of power, strange noises or smells but the oil temps sure climbed fast. And I was not pushing it hard at all. Driving 60-65. Never bogging the engine. Driving in 5th gear. Went down to 4th briefly but that made the temps rise even more abruptly. At one point I'm pretty sure I hit 250. Pulled over and took a shot of the dash where it was closer to 230-240 imo. Is this a concern running oil straight from the dealer? Would you pull over in this scenario?
I love Mt Charleston, excellent sport climbing up there! Haven’t been out since last August but I’d love to head back once this quarantine is over.

To get back on topic, I believe the SoCal garage works VelosterN has a mishimoto oil cooler on it. Has anyone else tried this?
 
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IATs more directly impact power than heat in the motor. Yes, IATs especially ones that are causing knock can cause higher engine temps and thus higher oil temps, however, you have more issues than oil temps if you're getting knock that badly.

Sure, as more heat enters the engine it can increase the oil temps, but IATs have much less affect on heat in the engine than the heat rejection of the engine itself. Just adding a larger FMIC and intake is not going to improve oil temps.
I agree with you. There is definitely MORE involved all around. I didn't mean an intake but meant the intake snorkel. I'm just saying from my own personal experience with those couple things I DID/DO notice more consistent running temps. Especially when I lay into it, it doesn't heat soak as bad and oil temps drop back to a nice range faster than before. Most likely due to better charged air resulting in slightly richer af/r which will help with combustion temps. Wasn't trying to come off like an ass. After I reread what I posted it appeared that way and that was not my intent at all! I apologize for that dude.
 
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I love Mt Charleston, excellent sport climbing up there! Haven’t been out since last August but I’d love to head back once this quarantine is over.

To get back on topic, I believe the SoCal garage works VelosterN has a mishimoto oil cooler on it. Has anyone else tried this?
This would definitely be beneficial! I'll have to look into that my self :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've seen mine just kiss the red (which is right around 260) on a 100 degree track day, but even then I was not concerned because:

  • You want your oil to be hotter than 212 to burn off deposits and water
  • Modern quality synthetic oils can withstand 300+ easily
Makes sense. With that being said, are aftermarket mods that keep oil temps below 200 actually doing more harm than good?
 

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Makes sense. With that being said, are aftermarket mods that keep oil temps below 200 actually doing more harm than good?
It's possible. For every pound of gas burned an engine typically produces a pound of water, the water can mix with the sulfur that the combustion cycle produces making an acid that can eventually damage bearings. I mean, that would have to be over a long period of time, but it can happen.

You really want oil temps to stay in the 210-220F range, which can be done with an oil cooler when pushing the car hard but the concern is when you're not pushing the car and you're only seeing temps of 180-190F.
 

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It's possible. For every pound of gas burned an engine typically produces a pound of water, the water can mix with the sulfur that the combustion cycle produces making an acid that can eventually damage bearings. I mean, that would have to be over a long period of time, but it can happen.

You really want oil temps to stay in the 210-220F range, which can be done with an oil cooler when pushing the car hard but the concern is when you're not pushing the car and you're only seeing temps of 180-190F.
I know mishimoto makes a thermostatic oil cooler as well, so depending on usage and temps (And what the temperature the thermostat is set to actuate at) it can serve as a secondary to your primary oil cooler that’s built in. Theoretically you cover all your bases with that setup. I wonder if that’s feasible?
 

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It's possible. For every pound of gas burned an engine typically produces a pound of water, the water can mix with the sulfur that the combustion cycle produces making an acid that can eventually damage bearings. I mean, that would have to be over a long period of time, but it can happen.

You really want oil temps to stay in the 210-220F range, which can be done with an oil cooler when pushing the car hard but the concern is when you're not pushing the car and you're only seeing temps of 180-190F.
This is why short trips are very hard on an engine. You need the engine at full operating temperature to burn-off moisture inside the block. I see this with my catch can on my Genesis. I drain it at every oil change. In the summer there is not a huge amount in there. In the winter that can accumulates a lot and it is mostly a milky oil / water substance.
 
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