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Discussion Starter #1
I should preface this by saying I just got to push the car on backroads with friends for the first time yesterday, after having completed the 600 miles of meticulous break-in. Car is bone stock, no mods whatsoever. My other car is a 2019 Miata RF GT-S, so some of my impressions are going to be, whether I want to or not, influenced by the experience my Miatas have offered me the last 2.5 years. My goal with also owning a Veloster was to have a really fun car to drive when there were more than just 2 of us or more stuff than can fit in the Miata.

I'll post back with further impressions the more I drive the car, and you're welcome to share yours as well!

Pros:
  • Car is a hoot; loud and childish when pushed
  • Dual/customizable personality: at the hit of a button it goes from your fully customized beast to a quiet, mostly comfortable regular hatchback
  • The eLSD, any time it detects a hint of understeer, has the entire car rotating around itself as if it's RWD; it's sorcery, it's magic, and given my prior FWD experiences, it makes no sense, but it works. It keeps surprising me with its ability to attack tight corners fast without any worry of loss of control.
  • Space is cramped in the back only if you're spoiled by enormous US cars or taller than 5'10''/5'11'' (or have a long torso), in which case headroom might be an issue. Tall friends will have to sit in the front. Other than that, space is perfectly adequate; my first car back in Greece was a 2002 Fiat Punto (compact 2-door hatchback (well, then 3-door? whatever) with a roaring 78hp that was perfectly adequate in taking me and a couple of friends on vacations.
  • Spacious trunk.
  • Comfy cloth seats; they're bolstered but not too bolstered, perfect for a bigger guy like me.
  • Infotainment works great.
  • DID I MENTION THIS CAR SOUNDS RIDICULOUS? I just have a constant grin on my face driving it, and that's all I could ask for.
Cons:
  • I don't understand the throttle response; it's like the car doesn't want you to use its turbo unless you put your foot on the floor; you get 50% of the car's power for 90% of the pedal's travel, and then if you put your foot all the way down it's like you opened the NOS valve and the car kicks you back and goes crazy. I get that it's trying to give you more granular throttle control than a car where 30% of pedal travel means 100% open throttle plate, making the rest of the travel useless, but I was hoping there could be some sweet medium between one end of the spectrum and the other. Feels like something that could be alleviated/adjusted with a tune, but it is what it is for now.
  • Still getting some jerky 1->2 shifts even after 650 miles; the clutch bite point is not communicated at all through the clutch pedal, so it's a matter of building muscle memory and adjusting to the transition between it and the Miata.
  • The car, stock, is not meant for bad roads and mountains and canyons in my opinion, and there's a lot of them around where I live. The suspension even at its softest setting makes the car more bouncy than the Miata, and those 19'' wheels and low profile tires are great for looks, but useless otherwise; looking forward to making all of this better once I go down to 18'' Rial Lucca wheels and Michelin PS4S tires.
  • Underwhelming sound system; nothing amazing, nothing horrible, but for the supposed "Premium" sound system I still think the Bose (yuck...) sound system in the Miata somehow sounds better (the subwoofers in the seats help the Miata, though, where loud bass in the Veloster just makes panels rattle); mid-range delivery also feels sub-par; still, it's all tolerable if you keep measured expectations, and probably easy to upgrade the drivers should I decide to down the road.
 

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Chalk White 2020 Veloster N w/PP
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Thanks for the detailed review. I only have about 450 miles on mine so it has not been floored yet. I have hit 5k three times, which I know better, but it was too much fun. No hard acceleration though. I agree that it does not have that FWD feel to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The pops and bangs get so much louder at 5k vs the recommended break-in max of 4k, that I understand why it's been hard to resist. Those first 600 miles were torture.
 

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The ride gets better when you reduce the wheel size down to 18" or even 17".

Clutch pedal gets better when you pull the assist spring out.

Throttle response is pretty poor you're right after playing with Rev matching and doing it myself I realized it. Should be better with a chip, tune or piggy back as well as a lightweight flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I thought 17'' wheels are not recommended on the PP because of brake caliper clearance issues? I thought Ghost mentioned that a week ago or something.

I've considered pulling the assist spring out, but without good documentation on how to put it back in should I not like how heavy it gets after or eventually (and the reports on the 86/BRZ forums are that it's a pain in the ass to put back in), I'm waiting to see if muscle memory doesn't take care of that.

And yeah, I'll be keeping my eye out for a tune, something easily reversible in case of warranty work and the like. For my Miata the tune I have comes with a small tablet that plugs into the OBD port which means I could revert the tune at any time even away from home; pretty convenient stuff.
 

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I thought 17'' wheels are not recommended on the PP because of brake caliper clearance issues? I thought Ghost mentioned that a week ago or something.

I've considered pulling the assist spring out, but without good documentation on how to put it back in should I not like how heavy it gets after or eventually (and the reports on the 86/BRZ forums are that it's a pain in the ass to put back in), I'm waiting to see if muscle memory doesn't take care of that.

And yeah, I'll be keeping my eye out for a tune, something easily reversible in case of warranty work and the like. For my Miata the tune I have comes with a small tablet that plugs into the OBD port which means I could revert the tune at any time even away from home; pretty convenient stuff.
There's a velo PP in Ontario with Motegi tracklite 17 x 8.5s -42 offset running them in their gt3 class. They're not having issues as far as I know.

I'll take a look this weekend and take a video of the assist spring and put it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds good, much appreciated. I've already ordered the 18s, and I've calculated the sidewall on the new tires to be 3.7mm. My Miata went from 3.6mm to 3.8mm after installing 215s, and I like its ride quality, so I think that's the sidewall sweet spot for me. (I understand there's a bunch of other differences re: suspension, but I'm pretending for the sake of this thought exercise that at its softest setting the ride quality in the VN can be similar to that of the Bilsteins in the Miata, because it really feels like it could be.) If 18s still don't feel comfortable enough, I might consider 17s, but I have a feeling I'll be happy with what I've ordered.
 

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Sounds good, much appreciated. I've already ordered the 18s, and I've calculated the sidewall on the new tires to be 3.7mm. My Miata went from 3.6mm to 3.8mm after installing 215s, and I like its ride quality, so I think that's the sidewall sweet spot for me. (I understand there's a bunch of other differences re: suspension, but I'm pretending for the sake of this thought exercise that at its softest setting the ride quality in the VN can be similar to that of the Bilsteins in the Miata, because it really feels like it could be.) If 18s still don't feel comfortable enough, I might consider 17s, but I have a feeling I'll be happy with what I've ordered.
Ya 35 to 40 profile seems to be the big change in my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Reposting from my post in another thread. First row is stock, second row is the Tire Rack recommended tire for downsizing to 18'', and the third row is the closest you can get to stock circumference at 18'', with some extra sidewall as an added bonus. Third row is what I have on order.

Code:
Specification  Sidewall  Radius  Diameter  Circumference  Revs/Mile  Difference
235/35-19         3.2in  12.7in    25.5in         80.0in        792        0.0%
225/40-18         3.5in  12.5in    25.1in         78.8in        804       -1.5%
235/40-18         3.7in  12.7in    25.4in         79.8in        794       -0.3%
 

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Chalk White 2020 Veloster N w/PP
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Visually, I cannot imagine 17" rims would fits over the PP brakes. When I put the winter tires on my Gen Coupe I am going to test fit one of my 18" tires. I use 17" winter tires on my Gen Coupe so that I have fat tires to survive the potholes. I have the feeling they will fit quite well including the offset. I will know around Thanksgiving. I also see that Mr. Biermann specified German brake pads. Dusty!!
 

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I should preface this by saying I just got to push the car on backroads with friends for the first time yesterday, after having completed the 600 miles of meticulous break-in. Car is bone stock, no mods whatsoever. My other car is a 2019 Miata RF GT-S, so some of my impressions are going to be, whether I want to or not, influenced by the experience my Miatas have offered me the last 2.5 years. My goal with also owning a Veloster was to have a really fun car to drive when there were more than just 2 of us or more stuff than can fit in the Miata.

I'll post back with further impressions the more I drive the car, and you're welcome to share yours as well!

Pros:
  • Car is a hoot; loud and childish when pushed
  • Dual/customizable personality: at the hit of a button it goes from your fully customized beast to a quiet, mostly comfortable regular hatchback
  • The eLSD, any time it detects a hint of understeer, has the entire car rotating around itself as if it's RWD; it's sorcery, it's magic, and given my prior FWD experiences, it makes no sense, but it works. It keeps surprising me with its ability to attack tight corners fast without any worry of loss of control.
  • Space is cramped in the back only if you're spoiled by enormous US cars or taller than 5'10''/5'11'' (or have a long torso), in which case headroom might be an issue. Tall friends will have to sit in the front. Other than that, space is perfectly adequate; my first car back in Greece was a 2002 Fiat Punto (compact 2-door hatchback (well, then 3-door? whatever) with a roaring 78hp that was perfectly adequate in taking me and a couple of friends on vacations.
  • Spacious trunk.
  • Comfy cloth seats; they're bolstered but not too bolstered, perfect for a bigger guy like me.
  • Infotainment works great.
  • DID I MENTION THIS CAR SOUNDS RIDICULOUS? I just have a constant grin on my face driving it, and that's all I could ask for.
Cons:
  • I don't understand the throttle response; it's like the car doesn't want you to use its turbo unless you put your foot on the floor; you get 50% of the car's power for 90% of the pedal's travel, and then if you put your foot all the way down it's like you opened the NOS valve and the car kicks you back and goes crazy. I get that it's trying to give you more granular throttle control than a car where 30% of pedal travel means 100% open throttle plate, making the rest of the travel useless, but I was hoping there could be some sweet medium between one end of the spectrum and the other. Feels like something that could be alleviated/adjusted with a tune, but it is what it is for now.
  • Still getting some jerky 1->2 shifts even after 650 miles; the clutch bite point is not communicated at all through the clutch pedal, so it's a matter of building muscle memory and adjusting to the transition between it and the Miata.
  • The car, stock, is not meant for bad roads and mountains and canyons in my opinion, and there's a lot of them around where I live. The suspension even at its softest setting makes the car more bouncy than the Miata, and those 19'' wheels and low profile tires are great for looks, but useless otherwise; looking forward to making all of this better once I go down to 18'' Rial Lucca wheels and Michelin PS4S tires.
  • Underwhelming sound system; nothing amazing, nothing horrible, but for the supposed "Premium" sound system I still think the Bose (yuck...) sound system in the Miata somehow sounds better (the subwoofers in the seats help the Miata, though, where loud bass in the Veloster just makes panels rattle); mid-range delivery also feels sub-par; still, it's all tolerable if you keep measured expectations, and probably easy to upgrade the drivers should I decide to down the road.
I also came from a ND miata. My Instagram is @Ghost.HVN and my 2016 club mx5 was totalled. I ended up getting a 2020 perf pkg and love it so much. You hit the nail on the head with the throttle response though. We are so spoiled with the ND throttle and steering it's the best in the game other than that, the N is incredible I'll attach a Pic of mine.
3156
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I also came from a ND miata. My Instagram is @Ghost.HVN and my 2016 club mx5 was totalled. I ended up getting a 2020 perf pkg and love it so much. You hit the nail on the head with the throttle response though. We are so spoiled with the ND throttle and steering it's the best in the game other than that, the N is incredible I'll attach a Pic of mine.
I genuinely wish you had gotten to keep your Miata along with your Veloster, but either way I'm super happy you made it out safely and are now happy in another fun beast of a car! Safe drives, and enjoy!
 

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I also found the clutch engagement point a little weird at first. Muscle memory has taken care of that though. In my opinion, any sporty manual FWD car should have an aftermarket RMM installed straight away. I've never found one from the factory that wasn't a sloppy mess. I put a Sxth Element RMM on mine the second day I had it.

I also downsized to 18" wheels the first week I had the car. The factory 19's are for cosmetics, not performance. I settled on 18x8.5et45 Konig Ampliforms and 245/35 Pilot Sport PS4s. I couldn't be happier with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
My 18s would be on the car if the Rial Luccas would get here already! I have to wait until around 9/18, so not too much longer now.

I haven't read up on RMMs much. What's the supposed benefit?
 

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There are (generally) 3 mounts on a FWD car. Two of them support the weight of the drivetrain: One on the upper passenger side (near the front cover of the engine) and one on the transmission. The drivetrain acts like a pendulum, swinging fore and aft from these two mounts. The rear motor mount (aka torque mount) attaches to the bottom of the transmission/engine junction and to the front subframe. It's job is to arrest the swinging of the drivetrain. In order to minimize NVH, manufactures generally make the bushings in them pretty soft. The problem is that this allows too much drivetrain movement which messes up clutch feel and to a lesser extent shifter feel. In some cars with a lot of torque and really soft RMM's (second gen Mazdaspeed3 for example) the engine can move around enough to hit the firewall. Anyway, on this platform the RMM is extremely easy to upgrade. You can replace it entirely or just upgrade the bushings. I already had an RMM from my old Elantra N-Line (same platform as the VN) so I used that. Based on what I've heard from others though, upgrading the bushings in the factory mount is just as good and much cheaper.
 

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I genuinely wish you had gotten to keep your Miata along with your Veloster, but either way I'm super happy you made it out safely and are now happy in another fun beast of a car! Safe drives, and enjoy!
Thank you man 💖 me too.
 

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Appreciate the details, Alfresco!
I don’t have an RMM yet, but it’s likely going to be my next purchase for the car. From what I’ve been reading it also helps reduce wheel hop during harder acceleration off of the line.
 
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