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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, new member here. 2020 Veloster with the PP. Doing the first oil change. I wanted to ask other members the best way to go about doing a DIY oil change. Due to the lower front fascia, will ramps work for this car? Or would you jack it up?

I live in an apartment complex currently and am just looking for the most practical method. I found quite a few ramps on amazon, but not sure if there’d be enough clearance for the lower front fascia. Thanks guys any advice you can offer!
 

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I have some rhino ramps I bought from my local parts store but the Veloster N won’t go up them. When I did my oil change I just lift the car up and put it on jack stands, the pinch welds on the Veloster N are pretty strong, haven’t bent them and I’ve lifted the car multiple times already. I do have a puck for my jack I got off amazon and that probably helps not damaging the pinch welds.
 

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Unless you have some 300 dollar race ramps dont bother, the cars too low. Jacking it up is good enough if you do it safely. The job itself took less than an hour. The car makes it really easy. Alot of people say everything was overly tightened but mine was perfect. Might be different for you though. I highly recommend a oil filter wrench cap because the opening isn't that big and it will just save you time and energy. 80mm 15 flutes. Less than 8 bucks at an auto parts i beleive.
 

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I have some rhino ramps I bought from my local parts store but the Veloster N won’t go up them. When I did my oil change I just lift the car up and put it on jack stands, the pinch welds on the Veloster N are pretty strong, haven’t bent them and I’ve lifted the car multiple times already. I do have a puck for my jack I got off amazon and that probably helps not damaging the pinch welds.
I didnt have a puck for my oil change and it held up but i agree a puck is the way to go. I recently bough myself one as well as jack stand covers and they do give you that extra bit of confidence to not damage the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey guys, thanks for the replies. I appreciate your time. I actually did buy the rhino ramps and sure enough they were not enough to fit under the car without scraping the front fascia. I’m going to be returning those to Walmart today and buying a regular floor jack. I’ve never heard of pucks before. Do you know if they sell those at Walmart? Thanks again for the advice. Last thing I want to do is damage the pinch welds 😂

Also, in the pictures it looks like you only jacked up the left side of the car for the oil change. Is there a reason you did so? Thanks guys and happy Sunday
 

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Thats how ive done every car in the past it works for me, no specific reason. I tried to find a way to jack up both sides but my jack is to big to get the stands on the pinch welds and i didnt feel comfortable leaving the weight of the car on the control arm. (Although im going to have to find out a way when i swap the downpipe so might as well give it a shot)
The puck i got from amazon, not really sure about walmart but im sure they have something similar.
 

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Funny, I just did the first oil change on my 2020 VN PP today. When I got the filter from Hyundai (PN ending in 05), it came with a crush washer for the drain plug. However, when I removed the plug, there wasn't a washer there to replace??

Did your's have the washer? And, did you use the supplied washer?

--JamesT
 

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Funny, I just did the first oil change on my 2020 VN PP today. When I got the filter from Hyundai (PN ending in 05), it came with a crush washer for the drain plug. However, when I removed the plug, there wasn't a washer there to replace??

Did your's have the washer? And, did you use the supplied washer?

--JamesT
Same here, i was confused at first but decided not to use the washer as it didn't have one to begin with. I thought it was on the plug but painted over, but scratching away the paint didnt reveal much so i left it as is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pardon my ignorance, but I’ve never used a floor jack for a vehicle. I’ve only used a traditional four post lift in a car shop. For a floor jack, do we just place the puck on top of the round metal plate to fit the groove of the pinch weld? And do you recommend any puck in particular? Thanks again guys. I just dont want to go to the dealer for an oil change lol
 

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Pardon my ignorance, but I’ve never used a floor jack for a vehicle. I’ve only used a traditional four post lift in a car shop. For a floor jack, do we just place the puck on top of the round metal plate to fit the groove of the pinch weld? And do you recommend any puck in particular? Thanks again guys. I just dont want to go to the dealer for an oil change lol
Yup Its litterally that simple. Im no expert in the pucks so hopefully someone else can answer which in particular is best because mine isnt that good. Its way bigger that i thought it was and its more of a sleeve for the metal part of the jack. It works, but its annoying to align with the pinch weld because its wayy to big and moves around. Ive heard the cheapest and pretty much just as effective method is to literally buy a hockey puck and saw a V into the middle. But again im no expert so id ignore that until you learn a little more about it.
 

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Oh man, i just did my first oil change on this beauty yesterday and documented it specifically to help first time DIYers. I am not an expert, just a dude who is unbelievably anal-retentive. Other members, feel free to correct anything here.

Background stats and supplies:

Car: 2020 VN PP, no prior work done
Filter used: Genuine OEM Hyundai & Kia Oil Filter 26300-35505, bought from Amazon as a 6 pack. Yes, I was worried about counterfeit filters but these are known to be very heavy - like 2-3 times more heavy than the average filter. There's a great thread out there on fakes, read it yourself on https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...s/5301431/possible-counterfeit-hyunda-filters. I felt comfortable with mine.
Oil: Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (see bobistheoilguy as well for intense discussion on what oil to use)
Tools: You will need a 17mm socket (would recommend a short one rather than deep), socket wrench, floor jack (check Harbor Freight for sales on good one, DO NOT GET THE $30 PIECE OF GARBAGE FROM AUTOZONE), jack stands (two).
Oil filter pliers (https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-W114..._5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1579483279&sr=1-5) or some kind of oil filter wrench of your choice.
Oil drain pan, a funnel, many paper towels, disposable gloves, and a sheet of cardboard to protect your garage floor.
I highly, highly recommend Harbor Freight if you need tools. They're affordable, and I really don't think that their Made-In-China tools are somehow worse than Made-In-China tools from Autozone, Home Depot, or any other big box store. To be honest, I've spent a lot of time looking at their stuff and the welds on their jackstands seem as good as any other basic ones from other manufacturers.

OKAY.

PART ONE: run your car for a few minutes if the engine is totally cold. this supposedly helps thin/warm the oil and suspend contaminants.

PART TWO: JACKING UP THE CAR
I am really cautious about this and you probably should be as well. You can crush parts if you jack the wrong area, or you can even drop the car. For safety, never get under a car that is supported only by a jack - they are meant for lifting, not holding. A worn seal inside the jack might fail when you're under the car, and if this car falls on you, you will die. Obviously, jack on level ground as well. I think a lot of jack and jackstand failures are due to people using them on inclines. You can see in my photos I have multiple jack stands in place, and I also leave the jack under a pinch weld as an extra layer of protection. Other options are to put wood blocks or spare tires around as well.

I use a few rubber pads to help protect the car. These aren't necessary and you can just use rags, but RedVN from this forum suggested them and they've worked okay for me. They're not magic so be prepared to improvise a bit with them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N691QNG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TYC4B9F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As has been discussed, there are no central easy jacking points on this car so you have to get a little creative with jacking and placing jack stands. I tried for about 30 minutes yesterday to place a jack stand on the same pinch weld as the jack but it wasn't working out. Some people suggest jacking up the control arm but my jack can't reach that even though it's low-profile. Some people jack the rear pinch weld high enough to place a stand under the front pinch weld, but I didn't really like pushing a single rear corner that high.

I found the only way that worked for me was to jack the front pinch weld and place a rubber-clad stand under the front black steel crossmember/engine mount. This part can be seen here: https://www.hyundaipartsdeal.com/genuine/hyundai-crossmember-compl~62400-s0000.html
I've seen this jack stand position used by someone on Youtube. Googling this is a bit scary as some other car forums do report damage to the crossmember, but in general I feel like those are cars where the crossmember is made from lightweight aluminum. Ours is pretty darn thick steel and it takes stress from the control arms and engine mounts, so I think it's pretty safe to say that it can handle a jack stand. I've heard from some sites that you should avoid putting any pressure on any bolts/screws, and some others that don't care at all. You decide what you're gonna do.

PART THREE: WRENCHING.

Once the car is jacked and on stands, try to shake it. If it shakes, that's bad and something needs to be changed. It should feel rock solid.
Open the hood, loosen the oil cap on the engine.

Get under the car and locate the oil drain plug. You can see it in my photo. It's on a black oil pan. Use the socket wrench to open this. Be ready with gloves, rags/towels, and your oil drain pan. If you have a fancy drain pan with a vent, make sure you open that before the oil comes out. Also, I hope you have cardboard covering the floor and some old clothes on, because the oil stains everything. Once the oil drain plug is off, clean it up, remove the old crush gasket, and add the new one. Give the oil a couple minutes to drain and then wipe the area clean, then replace the plug by HAND until it is hand tight with the socket, and THEN give a little firm snugging with the socket wrench. Do NOT overtighten this - the crush gasket will keep things together, and if you hulk out on this you'll mess the oil pan up. A drain plug should be around 25 lb-ft of torque.

Now, you've got to get the oil filter off. See the slot next to the oil filter? If you don't have a socket-type filter wrench (I don't), you'll be forced to insert your wrench in through the slot. The factory applied filter was super-tight and it took my about 30 minutes of swearing and pleading to get it off. This will also drop quite a bit of oil so watch out. Get your new filter, wipe a thin layer of new oil onto the rubber gasket, and put install it until it is HAND TIGHT ONLY. Resist the urge to tighten this with your wrench, and if you can't help yourself, give just a little tiny bit of snugging.

PART FOUR: HOME STRETCH
Get out from under the car, and do whatever you need to in order to get all the jacks and stands out so the car is in level position.
Put your funnel in the engine and drop about 5 liters of oil in. The manual actually say it's 5.08 but my oil was just slightly above the full line on the dipstick with 5 and I didn't have any more, so I just let it go. By the way, to check the dipstick, you pull it out, wipe it clean, put the dipstick in all the way until it's fully inserted, and then pull it out to check.

PART FIVE: ?

I like to do some final checks. I usually do a quick 2 minute drive just to make sure it runs okay. Then, the next time I go for a drive, I will check the ground under the car and make sure there's no leaking oil. Fun fact, if you're super dirty and don't wipe up any drips on your car from your oil change, you'll see drops of oil on the ground and start sweating about what you messed up, so WORK CLEAN.


Good luck! DIY oil changes are really rewarding in that you get better oil than any lube place normally provides, for way less cost once you get the cost of tools out of the way. That said, these basic tools are really useful as you'll also use them for brake jobs and tire rotations, and they're usable on any other cars you might have in the family. Plus, I don't trust dealers or lube places - nobody will ever care about your car the way you do. The last dealer I went to (3 years ago) cracked my oil pan right at the drain plug threads, right before I went on a trip 5 hours from home. That was awesome.
 

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Same here, i was confused at first but decided not to use the washer as it didn't have one to begin with. I thought it was on the plug but painted over, but scratching away the paint didnt reveal much so i left it as is.
Weird, mine definitely had a crush washer/gasket.
 

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Thats how ive done every car in the past it works for me, no specific reason. I tried to find a way to jack up both sides but my jack is to big to get the stands on the pinch welds and i didnt feel comfortable leaving the weight of the car on the control arm. (Although im going to have to find out a way when i swap the downpipe so might as well give it a shot)
The puck i got from amazon, not really sure about walmart but im sure they have something similar.

You can jack up the car by the outer rails and put the jack stands under these inner rails (red circles). You can also jack the car up by the center of the front subframe (green circle) and put both jackstands under the side rails at the same time. Either way you want to make sure you're using a jack with about a 5" rubber topped lifting head so it doesn't slip or dent anything. If you can't get the jack under the car cut some 2x8" boards to drive up on so the jack fits. Don't jack the car up on the front control arms (or put jackstands under them). They're not designed for vertical bending loads like that and they can deform. General rule is don't jack on the lower control arms of any MacPherson strut type suspension because most aren't strong enough for that. Worse, the jackstand can slip easily there.





 

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Weird, mine definitely had a crush washer/gasket.
Huh... Just for esses and gees, may I ask the last four of your VIN? Mine is 5050.

MikeMr305: Would you mind adding yours as well?

Or, if you're not comfortable with giving that out, tell me if yours is before or after mine?

--JamesT
 

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Funny, I just did the first oil change on my 2020 VN PP today. When I got the filter from Hyundai (PN ending in 05), it came with a crush washer for the drain plug. However, when I removed the plug, there wasn't a washer there to replace??

Did your's have the washer? And, did you use the supplied washer?

--JamesT
Same here, i was confused at first but decided not to use the washer as it didn't have one to begin with. I thought it was on the plug but painted over, but scratching away the paint didnt reveal much so i left it as is.

The washer can stick to the pan or can stick to the plug but there has to be a washer there or it will leak. Sometimes the washer will stick to one of them so hard you have to pop it off with a screwdriver tip. If the old one didn't come off and you can see it's still there it's fine. You can reuse them a few times without getting a leak. Actually I've never seen one that leaked even after it was so flattened out it was sticking out around the head of the plug. They give you a new one with the filter though, so might as well use it.




Also, a habit I like to have with oil changes is to change the filter first and then drain the pan. A lot of cars will drain extra oil into the pan when you remove the filter, probably not much on this car with it's low mounted spin on filter and simple oiling system, but some cars with high mounted cartridge filters will dump an extra half quart into the pan from the oil galleys and filter housing so it's a habit worth developing. Also doing it this way the drain plug tightening is the last thing you do before you go topside to fill the oil, so it's easy to remember to do it and not get yourself distracted with other tasks underneath.
 

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huh... Just for esses and gees, may i ask the last four of your vin? Mine is 5050.
3886

I will say that my crush gasket was interesting. I could slide it only about 1-2 mm, but otherwise it had deformed in a way that made it impossible to get over the threaded shaft of the plug. I ended up having to pry it off a screwdriver. I wonder if yours was so deformed that it was stuck to the oil pan?
 

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Mine definitely had a crush washer, but rough threads on the plug so I replaced it. The 56" race ramps work with at least an inch of clearance. The shorter ones might work as well with a stock suspension height.
 

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Weird, mine definitely had a crush washer/gasket.
Huh... Just for esses and gees, may I ask the last four of your VIN? Mine is 5050.

MikeMr305: Would you mind adding yours as well?

Or, if you're not comfortable with giving that out, tell me if yours is before or after mine?

--JamesT
Mine would be 3295.

After seeing the pictures of other peoples plug i am almost certain my washer was painted excessively and the washer is stuck on there not only with the pressure of being crushed but now the paint acts like glue. I remember trying to remove it with a thin flathead but it didnt budge. It was in perfect condition other than that so no leaks, but i definitely need to figure out how to unstick that thing.
 

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Mine definitely had a crush washer, but rough threads on the plug so I replaced it. The 56" race ramps work with at least an inch of clearance. The shorter ones might work as well with a stock suspension height.
so with those race ramps they lift the csr about 10 inches. Does that give you enough room down there to work comfortably? Assuming you run stock height. Seems kind of tight but if ill definitely buy some if its comfortable down there because tbh thats going to make life so much easier.
 
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