Oh man, i just did my first oil change on this beauty yesterday and documented it specifically to help first time DIYers. I am not an expert, just a dude who is unbelievably anal-retentive. Other members, feel free to correct anything here.
Background stats and supplies:
Car: 2020 VN PP, no prior work done
Filter used: Genuine OEM Hyundai & Kia Oil Filter 26300-35505, bought from Amazon as a 6 pack. Yes, I was worried about counterfeit filters but these are known to be very heavy - like 2-3 times more heavy than the average filter. There's a great thread out there on fakes, read it yourself on
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...s/5301431/possible-counterfeit-hyunda-filters. I felt comfortable with mine.
Oil: Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (see bobistheoilguy as well for intense discussion on what oil to use)
Tools: You will need a 17mm socket (would recommend a short one rather than deep), socket wrench, floor jack (check Harbor Freight for sales on good one, DO NOT GET THE $30 PIECE OF GARBAGE FROM AUTOZONE), jack stands (two).
Oil filter pliers (
https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-W114..._5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1579483279&sr=1-5) or some kind of oil filter wrench of your choice.
Oil drain pan, a funnel, many paper towels, disposable gloves, and a sheet of cardboard to protect your garage floor.
I highly, highly recommend Harbor Freight if you need tools. They're affordable, and I really don't think that their Made-In-China tools are somehow worse than Made-In-China tools from Autozone, Home Depot, or any other big box store. To be honest, I've spent a lot of time looking at their stuff and the welds on their jackstands seem as good as any other basic ones from other manufacturers.
OKAY.
PART ONE: run your car for a few minutes if the engine is totally cold. this supposedly helps thin/warm the oil and suspend contaminants.
PART TWO: JACKING UP THE CAR
I am really cautious about this and you probably should be as well. You can crush parts if you jack the wrong area, or you can even drop the car. For safety, never get under a car that is supported only by a jack - they are meant for lifting, not holding. A worn seal inside the jack might fail when you're under the car, and if this car falls on you, you will die. Obviously, jack on level ground as well. I think a lot of jack and jackstand failures are due to people using them on inclines. You can see in my photos I have multiple jack stands in place, and I also leave the jack under a pinch weld as an extra layer of protection. Other options are to put wood blocks or spare tires around as well.
I use a few rubber pads to help protect the car. These aren't necessary and you can just use rags, but RedVN from this forum suggested them and they've worked okay for me. They're not magic so be prepared to improvise a bit with them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N691QNG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TYC4B9F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As has been discussed, there are no central easy jacking points on this car so you have to get a little creative with jacking and placing jack stands. I tried for about 30 minutes yesterday to place a jack stand on the same pinch weld as the jack but it wasn't working out. Some people suggest jacking up the control arm but my jack can't reach that even though it's low-profile. Some people jack the rear pinch weld high enough to place a stand under the front pinch weld, but I didn't really like pushing a single rear corner that high.
I found the only way that worked for me was to jack the front pinch weld and place a rubber-clad stand under the front black steel crossmember/engine mount. This part can be seen here:
https://www.hyundaipartsdeal.com/genuine/hyundai-crossmember-compl~62400-s0000.html
I've seen this jack stand position used by someone on Youtube. Googling this is a bit scary as some other car forums do report damage to the crossmember, but in general I feel like those are cars where the crossmember is made from lightweight aluminum. Ours is pretty darn thick steel and it takes stress from the control arms and engine mounts, so I think it's pretty safe to say that it can handle a jack stand. I've heard from some sites that you should avoid putting any pressure on any bolts/screws, and some others that don't care at all. You decide what you're gonna do.
PART THREE: WRENCHING.
Once the car is jacked and on stands, try to shake it. If it shakes, that's bad and something needs to be changed. It should feel rock solid.
Open the hood, loosen the oil cap on the engine.
Get under the car and locate the oil drain plug. You can see it in my photo. It's on a black oil pan. Use the socket wrench to open this. Be ready with gloves, rags/towels, and your oil drain pan. If you have a fancy drain pan with a vent, make sure you open that before the oil comes out. Also, I hope you have cardboard covering the floor and some old clothes on, because the oil stains everything. Once the oil drain plug is off, clean it up, remove the old crush gasket, and add the new one. Give the oil a couple minutes to drain and then wipe the area clean, then replace the plug by HAND until it is hand tight with the socket, and THEN give a little firm snugging with the socket wrench. Do NOT overtighten this - the crush gasket will keep things together, and if you hulk out on this you'll mess the oil pan up. A drain plug should be around 25 lb-ft of torque.
Now, you've got to get the oil filter off. See the slot next to the oil filter? If you don't have a socket-type filter wrench (I don't), you'll be forced to insert your wrench in through the slot. The factory applied filter was super-tight and it took my about 30 minutes of swearing and pleading to get it off. This will also drop quite a bit of oil so watch out. Get your new filter, wipe a thin layer of new oil onto the rubber gasket, and put install it until it is HAND TIGHT ONLY. Resist the urge to tighten this with your wrench, and if you can't help yourself, give just a little tiny bit of snugging.
PART FOUR: HOME STRETCH
Get out from under the car, and do whatever you need to in order to get all the jacks and stands out so the car is in level position.
Put your funnel in the engine and drop about 5 liters of oil in. The manual actually say it's 5.08 but my oil was just slightly above the full line on the dipstick with 5 and I didn't have any more, so I just let it go. By the way, to check the dipstick, you pull it out, wipe it clean, put the dipstick in all the way until it's fully inserted, and then pull it out to check.
PART FIVE: ?
I like to do some final checks. I usually do a quick 2 minute drive just to make sure it runs okay. Then, the next time I go for a drive, I will check the ground under the car and make sure there's no leaking oil. Fun fact, if you're super dirty and don't wipe up any drips on your car from your oil change, you'll see drops of oil on the ground and start sweating about what you messed up, so WORK CLEAN.
Good luck! DIY oil changes are really rewarding in that you get better oil than any lube place normally provides, for way less cost once you get the cost of tools out of the way. That said, these basic tools are really useful as you'll also use them for brake jobs and tire rotations, and they're usable on any other cars you might have in the family. Plus, I don't trust dealers or lube places - nobody will ever care about your car the way you do. The last dealer I went to (3 years ago) cracked my oil pan right at the drain plug threads, right before I went on a trip 5 hours from home. That was awesome.
