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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Installed this DP this past weekend. It is louder of course, for some reason my car does not have the usual cute pop and crackle, but growls instead. I think its better, loving it so far.

FYI, it threw a CEL (P0136) <--this is fixed. On the picture it shows 3 small defoulers, but I only used 2 of them, so I might add the 3rd see what happens.

My mods:
-Injen Intake
-Yames' Turbo inlet
-TTR upper motor mount
-Boomba Rear motor mount
-My own put-together catch can
-and now this Depo catless DP :)

Installation:
-Hell no I didn't install it. I had a shop do it for me. It took 4 hours for one poor guy in there to get it done. Bring snacks!
-Make sure to buy 4 extra studs (Part # 28233-2GTA1) You can get them from www.HyundaiPartsDeal.com or your dealer. They have to replace all 4 stripped studs. I was already ready and had the 4 studs.
-The hardware Depo Racing provided for the flex pipe on both ends were too small. The good thing is that the shop had smaller hardware, so we used theirs. Your muffler shop should have extras, but double check those things and try to get them before install.

Prep:
-I double-wrapped the top part of the downpipe, starting from the bottom to the top and then back down. Used some clamps, then sprayed it with DEI hi-temp silicone coating. I used up the whole can.
-Even though I started spraying the bolts with penetrating oil (PB Blaster) 2 days before installation, they still fucked up the studs. So just get those 4 extra studs.

--- Some pictures of the work...
1.jpg

5.jpg
10.jpg
 

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Would love to hear a sound clip!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Update: Oct 5

After using all 3 spacers last week, I was still getting CEL.

Then on Friday after work, as I was double checking the O2 sensor, wires, plugs -- as these could be one of the reasons for P0136 code CEL (the sensor itself)...and no **** I found that one of the secondary O2 sensor's plug connector pins was loose (one pin was pulled out). I pulled it back in using a long nose pliers and deleted the code with my old scan gauge II. I started all over again by just using 1 spacer (the 45 degree on the picture), and observe from there.

I have been driving the car for 3 days now and no CEL. I'll be back in a week to update, more to follow :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here is a list of the items and their price put together for this DP...

$299 - Depo Racing Catless DP (shipped)
$17 - Exhaust/Header Wrap
$8 - Clamps
$14 - DEI hi-temp silicone coating
$35 - Studs (4 extra)
$300 - Installation
$673 - TOTAL
 

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If you go stainless steel studs its only like 10 bucks more than the regular studs and i highly recommend that instead. It should make life easier way down the road if you care about longevity
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Was looking at these down pipes but got mixed reviews on them. May just pull the trigger on em
I’m so glad I went with this DP. A lot of people look down on this downpipe because it’s “cheap” or that the oem heat shield doesn’t bolt on to it or they don’t know what to do with the CEL and how to get rid of it, so they just buy the expensive brands thinking “well it cost a lot, it must be the best of the bestest”. Some of those “branded” DP have their flaws too. Just look at the pics I took above, this DP is sexy 😎 LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you go stainless steel studs its only like 10 bucks more than the regular studs and i highly recommend that instead. It should make life easier way down the road if you care about longevity
You know I thought about it after I bought the studs and looking at the guy installing. I was like “I should have bought some ARP studs, you dummy!”
 

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You know I thought about it after I bought the studs and looking at the guy installing. I was like “I should have bought some ARP studs, you dummy!”
I bought the wrong sized arp studs so i had some trouble but i made it work lol. I think the oem thread thickness was 1.25 or something, but i didnt realize the studs i bought were 1.25 on one side and 1.5 on the other. Simple fix, i just put the stud in backwards and i had the 1.5 side facing the downpipe 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I bought the wrong sized arp studs so i had some trouble but i made it work lol. I think the oem thread thickness was 1.25 or something, but i didnt realize the studs i bought were 1.25 on one side and 1.5 on the other. Simple fix, i just put the stud in backwards and i had the 1.5 side facing the downpipe 😂
Smart guy 👌👏
 

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Found that one of the secondary O2 sensor's plug connector pins was loose (one pin was pulled out). I pulled it back in using a long nose pliers and deleted the code with my old scan gauge II.
This is exactly what happened to one of my CPU 3 pin fans. All 3 pins were pulled back from the adapter lol.

Nice dp start up noise o.o I wonder how she sounds c:
 

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I had a question about the heat wrap, I’ve seen some videos and read some forums about not heat wrapping a down pipe. I’d there really any downside to heat wrapping? And also what are the size of those studs? I should be doing this same install soon!
 

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I had a question about the heat wrap, I’ve seen some videos and read some forums about not heat wrapping a down pipe. I’d there really any downside to heat wrapping? And also what are the size of those studs? I should be doing this same install soon!
4218
 
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