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When someone finds out for sure what Hyundai did to change the front camber, please update this thread. I’ll call the local Hyundai dealer when I get a chance and try to compare some part numbers. Thanks!
I just took a look this morning. At a quick glance the DCT has different numbers for the: Knuckle, Wheel hub assy, strut top hat, strut assy, and brake dust shields but it has the same numbers for lower control arms and strut to knuckle bolts (which means they did not just add camber bolts). It looks like they fundamentally changed the front knuckle and strut design to incorporate the camber.

The MT Veloster N has a parts suffix of K9000 and the DCT has K9600. For example the RH knuckle for the MT is 51711-K9000, the DCT is 51711-K9600
 

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I just took a look this morning. At a quick glance the DCT has different numbers for the: Knuckle, Wheel hub assy, strut top hat, strut assy, and brake dust shields but it has the same numbers for lower control arms and strut to knuckle bolts (which means they did not just add camber bolts). It looks like they fundamentally changed the front knuckle and strut design to incorporate the camber.

The MT Veloster N has a parts suffix of K9000 and the DCT has K9600. For example the RH knuckle for the MT is 51711-K9000, the DCT is 51711-K9600
What website are you looking at that already has 2021 parts listed?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thanks for doing the homework N_Dorphins! Surprised Hyundai went through the trouble to change all of those parts. I figured it would just have been the strut mount. Will be interesting to see what the costs of the parts are and if it makes sense to go this route for maximum negative camber.
 

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Thanks for doing the homework N_Dorphins! Surprised Hyundai went through the trouble to change all of those parts. I figured it would just have been the strut mount. Will be interesting to see what the costs of the parts are and if it makes sense to go this route for maximum negative camber.
Anytime.

However with the immediate big changes being the knuckles & struts, I don't see it being "cost effective" vs a $120 set of camber bolts. You'd eliminate the need for the bolts at all (to get around -2*) but it would be prohibitively expensive unless you wait for a wrecked DCT to show up and buy the parts used.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Anytime.

However with the immediate big changes being the knuckles & struts, I don't see it being "cost effective" vs a $120 set of camber bolts. You'd eliminate the need for the bolts at all (to get around -2*) but it would be prohibitively expensive unless you wait for a wrecked DCT to show up and buy the parts used.
... which is exactly why I just went with camber bolts. $30 for bolts and $120 for an alignment will be less expensive than even just the DCT parts much less parts + alignment.
 

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... which is exactly why I just went with camber bolts. $30 for bolts and $120 for an alignment will be less expensive than even just the DCT parts much less parts + alignment.
OE Shocks are VERY expensive lol (comparatively speaking anyway), but I do like the idea of using all OE parts to achieve the same effect.
 

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Install a Mando SDS ESC 10 module and you'll get 100% adjustability out of the OEM struts and shocks.

Suspension Upgrades;
 

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We were talking about camber adjustment using factory parts. Instead of having to use camber bolts, just for peace of mind that they wont spontaneously fail one day. The Mando controller is really cool but 1) it can't adjust camber and 2) I feel like you've stated the app is in Korean only, not something I want to deal with. Plus the lowering springs helped soften it up outside of N Mode.
 

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Correct but it will give a much improved overall dynamic response of the suspension as a whole. Aftermarket part are generally much higher quality and provide more significant ability to adjust both fore and aft.

The app is available thru the app stores and the unit was produced by Mando a subsidiary of Mobis in South Korea (for the VN specifically,) who supplies most of the OEM parts for both Hyundai and Kia. If I'm not mistaken Mobis is actually owned by Hyundai.

Read about it specifically. They make other modules for only Kia and Hyundai specific automobiles. I utilized one and it makes a world of difference. There are 3 preset modes and 3 custom modes that can be set to owner/user specifications.

This will start you out for Genuine Hyundai Suspension Parts; Hyundai Genuine Parts Camber Adjusting Bolt Kit/ 00118 2M001
 

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We were talking about camber adjustment using factory parts. Instead of having to use camber bolts, just for peace of mind that they wont spontaneously fail one day. The Mando controller is really cool but 1) it can't adjust camber and 2) I feel like you've stated the app is in Korean only, not something I want to deal with. Plus the lowering springs helped soften it up outside of N Mode.
While the reduced diameter has to result in some tensile strength loss compared to the stock bolt, I'm okay with using one quality camber bolt per side, properly torqued. I can't see myself using two per side though. Good find on the DCT differences(y)
 

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I'm interested in getting more front camber on my DCT. From reading this entire thread I think I've ascertained that Hyundai did NOT just go with camber bolts on the DCT but fundamentally changed parts. That being the case, this means that neither the top or bottom hole has a camber bolt in it. Is this correct?

Moog shows K90474 as the part for the N which also happens to be the same part for the R-spec. Seeing that I already have this part #, I was going to try them in my N DCT.

Question, for those of you that have installed camber bolts up front, did you use the top or bottom hole?
 

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Just remember to keep the zero scrub radius for the VN or you'll increase torque steer. I would leave the DCT as is. They have different suspension components and are utilizing a negative camber already. Upper bolt on the strut mount.

Talk to GenRacer about the DCT. They'll have so up to date info for you.
 

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If you know what you want or need - run the camber you desire. Do not let someone talk you out of what you want. It's all give and take. Maximize one and lose the other.

-JE
 

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All advice is not valuable. Solid advice and experience has its place. There are negative and positive, causes and effects The effect of those can be good or bad. Those that are bad can averted with a bit of understanding from the right source.

Talk to Gen Racer, they're running a 2021 DCT and MT on the track. Listen to experience, it solves many problems and reduces unnecessary costs. Maximize both, thru a bit of knowledge and understanding.:)(y)
 

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All advice is not valuable. Solid advice and experience has its place. There are negative and positive, causes and effects The effect of those can be good or bad. Those that are bad can averted with a bit of understanding from the right source.

Talk to Gen Racer, they're running a 2021 DCT and MT on the track. Listen to experience, it solves many problems and reduces unnecessary costs. Maximize both, thru a bit of knowledge and understanding.:)(y)
I am not in disagreement that adding higher quality parts is always better and that there are good/better/best ways of doing things.

I am saying I know people who race and are winning Autox events and others winning track events and they are running more camber than you stated and without all of the additional 400 parts you suggested. Hence - my point, not in opposition to yours, but standing alongside, that if you know how you want your car to behave then their are more economical ways of doing it. And, not to accept one man's opinion as dogma, but talk to and entertain multiple people.

-JE
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
While I don’t necessarily always agree with Red, he is right on point about speaking to Genracer. I called them the other day to simply ask about whether a part was in stock or not, and ended up speaking to Jeff for at least 30 minutes about so many different aspects of the car. They race the Veloster N, and have an amazing knowledge base which they are willing to share. I guess it could be seen as a sales tactic, but he spent far more time on me than he got back in money I spent on purchasing items from them, and he even steered me away from some more expensive parts.

So, just call them for some advice and go to the source of people who really know their stuff about this platform.
 

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While I don’t necessarily always agree with Red, he is right on point about speaking to Genracer. I called and then the other day to simply ask about whether a part was in stock or not, and ended up speaking to Jeff for at least 30 minutes about so many different aspects of the car. They race the Veloster N, and have an amazing knowledge base which they are willing to share. I guess it could be seen as a sales tactic, but he spent far more time on me than he got back in money I spent on purchasing items from them, and he even steered me away from some more expensive parts.

So, just call them for some advice and go to the source of people who really know their stuff about this platform.
That is awesome. Glad he had that time. I need to call him and talk w him. It would be interesting to hear his school of thiught verse the Korean school of thiught. My buddy owns a high end tuning shop in Korea and they race and there thiughts on spring rates, shocks, lowering height, and away bars is quite different than the normal school of thiught.

Again, no better or worse. But a different personal ethos and philosophy. There understanding of how a car should behave, be approached, and tuned according to a drivers needs.

For example, here everyone just adds 2 bigger sway bars assuming bigger is better. But they really like the suspension work independently. They don’t believe coupling them gives the best results on the track. They use minimal lowering (but they do lower), higher linear spring rates so the car is more predictable and minimal sway (stock size) for track.

-JE
 
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