Codes P2096 & P2196
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You might be misunderstanding due to me improperly describing my situation. Sorry about that. The afe mid pipe comes in three parts. The OEM mid pipe is one full piece. Connecting the afe mid pipe requires 3 clamps. Those were what I wanted specs on. Sorry about that and thanks for the reference guide. I'll use thay when I connect the mid pipe to the muffler and downpipe
Makes sense! I'm still new to all this so I wasn't aware. Thanks for your insight.
Side note, I talked to a muffler shop and they said if it's the top O2 Sensor it is likely due to the air intake coming loose.
Does that make any sense to yall? I'm going to reinstall it and make sure everything is good when I get home shortly since that will be easy to handle in the cold.
Side note, I talked to a muffler shop and they said if it's the top O2 Sensor it is likely due to the air intake coming loose.
Does that make any sense to yall? I'm going to reinstall it and make sure everything is good when I get home shortly since that will be easy to handle in the cold.
Kudos to hyundaipartsdeal.com - I did pay a decent chunk for priority shipping but it'll be here tomorrow. I'll use your guide to reference the exact torque specs. Thanks a bunch for always being there to help. It's always appreciated and welcome. While I wait for the part I'm gonna replace all my exhaust and ensure everything is tight and leak free
Submitted a warranty claim, got this lovely response:
"
aFe recently entered into a civil judicial settlement with EPA to resolve disputes regarding its manufacturing, sale and installation of Subject Products. Although aFe has not admitted liability for violating the Clean Air Act, as part of the settlement it has agreed that, among other things, it will no longer (1) manufacture, sell, or install the Subject Products or (2) provide technical support (e.g., telephone support, online/chat support, warranty support) for the Subject Products. aFe has also agreed to provide you with this notice.
You have one of the "Subject Products"
This is from the US Government....sorry that I cannot be of further service to you on this matter.....
"
"
aFe recently entered into a civil judicial settlement with EPA to resolve disputes regarding its manufacturing, sale and installation of Subject Products. Although aFe has not admitted liability for violating the Clean Air Act, as part of the settlement it has agreed that, among other things, it will no longer (1) manufacture, sell, or install the Subject Products or (2) provide technical support (e.g., telephone support, online/chat support, warranty support) for the Subject Products. aFe has also agreed to provide you with this notice.
You have one of the "Subject Products"
This is from the US Government....sorry that I cannot be of further service to you on this matter.....
"
Joined
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4,081 Posts
Then email back and tell them they need to honor the warranty monetarily, with a full refund.
It’s not your fault, the unit was defective and fell apart. This is the least they can do. Also, I’d let them know your not above contacting an attorney and taking them to task in a small claims court in your county and state.
Tbese are two completely separate issues. They have a consumer warranty that precludes this type of warranty claim.
You have a legitimate issue and they have an obligation to make you whole, one way or another.
Also keep in mind a good welder can fix this. Check the rest of the welds, polish the unit and then you can have it coated. I’d check the cost and weigh it against purchasing a new unit first.
My personal business with AFE TAKEDA; is at an end permanently.😃👍🇺🇸
It’s not your fault, the unit was defective and fell apart. This is the least they can do. Also, I’d let them know your not above contacting an attorney and taking them to task in a small claims court in your county and state.
Tbese are two completely separate issues. They have a consumer warranty that precludes this type of warranty claim.
You have a legitimate issue and they have an obligation to make you whole, one way or another.
Also keep in mind a good welder can fix this. Check the rest of the welds, polish the unit and then you can have it coated. I’d check the cost and weigh it against purchasing a new unit first.
My personal business with AFE TAKEDA; is at an end permanently.😃👍🇺🇸
Indeed. I've emailed them back requesting a refund and will see my attorney today about it.
I am friends with a good welder who says he can fix it, but like you I am done with afe. I will not be purchasing anymore of their products or using them on any of my vehicles. A $1k product should not have broken like this and with so little use.
Also, even if I fixed it, I couldn't resell it in good conscience. I wouldn't recommend their products to my worst enemy.
Car is running much better with the stock cat on. I ordered a catless downpipe from depot racing for $300. Will see how this one plays out.
I am friends with a good welder who says he can fix it, but like you I am done with afe. I will not be purchasing anymore of their products or using them on any of my vehicles. A $1k product should not have broken like this and with so little use.
Also, even if I fixed it, I couldn't resell it in good conscience. I wouldn't recommend their products to my worst enemy.
Car is running much better with the stock cat on. I ordered a catless downpipe from depot racing for $300. Will see how this one plays out.
Depo racing DP has been a hit/miss.
Plus side, flames shoot out of my exhaust.
Downside, p2096 keeps popping up intermittently, but not with P2196 anymore. I did have P0124 I believe which was 'no sensor activity detected'.
Readjusting the prosports mini cat several times with no real success. I've been able to get the 'no sensor activity detected' code to drop off tho.
I'm wondering if anyone who doesn't have these codes can snap a pic of their mini cats orientation so I can try to replicate it to see if that fixes it. Depending on my success, I'll probably be going back to the stock DP. I saw recently an i30n made 400bhp or something with the stock DP, so I feel like it is likely good enough for the numbers I want to attain.
Plus side, flames shoot out of my exhaust.
Downside, p2096 keeps popping up intermittently, but not with P2196 anymore. I did have P0124 I believe which was 'no sensor activity detected'.
Readjusting the prosports mini cat several times with no real success. I've been able to get the 'no sensor activity detected' code to drop off tho.
I'm wondering if anyone who doesn't have these codes can snap a pic of their mini cats orientation so I can try to replicate it to see if that fixes it. Depending on my success, I'll probably be going back to the stock DP. I saw recently an i30n made 400bhp or something with the stock DP, so I feel like it is likely good enough for the numbers I want to attain.
I went back to stock dp. Took 4.5h. Battery unplugged the entire time. Code still pending. Tried to clear, it wouldn't. Took it to the dealer, they couldn't see the code at all on their devices.
Going to go on a drive with them tomorrow and test the o2 sensor, do some data logging and get the afr since for some reason my ek1pro doesn't show it. Going to determine if it's really running lean from idle to wot.
They will also be installing my hpfp since I'm going to Tampa (2.5k mi round trip) and don't want any fuel delivery issues spawning any problems along the way.
Also going to use a diff obd2 scanner to see of the code appears still.
Super weird. If we can't resolve it at the dealer tomorrow I'm going to swap to my stock ecu, run for about 50 miles and revert back to see if that does anything.
I'm not sure if my car is actually being affected by this, but I hate having any codes, pending or permanent as it's an indication that something is potentially going wrong.
Going to go on a drive with them tomorrow and test the o2 sensor, do some data logging and get the afr since for some reason my ek1pro doesn't show it. Going to determine if it's really running lean from idle to wot.
They will also be installing my hpfp since I'm going to Tampa (2.5k mi round trip) and don't want any fuel delivery issues spawning any problems along the way.
Also going to use a diff obd2 scanner to see of the code appears still.
Super weird. If we can't resolve it at the dealer tomorrow I'm going to swap to my stock ecu, run for about 50 miles and revert back to see if that does anything.
I'm not sure if my car is actually being affected by this, but I hate having any codes, pending or permanent as it's an indication that something is potentially going wrong.
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