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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting these codes just recently.

I've had my car FBO and tuned for a few months now. The other night I noticed the car wasn't making any pops and decided to run the scanner. At the time I only had p2096. I cleared it, pops came back more aggressive than ever.

Had some really good pulls last night down the twisties, but on my way home I noticed no pops(performance still seemed good tho) so I ran the scanner and got the same p2096 along with p2196 this time.

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Rectangle Font Display device Electric blue Electronic device


Torque Pro won't work on Android 12, but even so it never worked with reading AFR so I couldn't check any values really.

I already have the 90 degree jbend mini cat, https://prosportgauges.com/products/mini-cat-o2-sensor-cel-fix-90a that I'll get installed, but I don't think this should be responsible for both these codes, especially this late in the game.

My question would be, aside from installing this, what else should I get to ensure everything is running optimally?

I'm already thinking about getting a new turbo-to-downpipe gasket, and all new gaskets for the exhaust(downpipe to mid, and mid to axle). Perhaps maybe even a new lower o2 sensor.

Anyone have any other suggestions or ideas?

P.S. I did search the forums for P2196 & P2096 before posting this but didn't get any results, so if this has already been asked/answered my apologies.
 

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2096=secondary 02 needs a bung extension (sufficient warm up time it stops popping). dunno about the other. 2096 is harmless

did some research. You have an exhaust leak pre 1st o2 sensor most likely. What dp are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Afe dp. That's pretty weird. I did have the dealer reinstall a new muffler under warranty and asked to adjust the clamps on the afe midpipe. This problem definitely didn't exist before that either...hmm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also, I had a dealer appointment today and wanted my sxth spare ecu unlocked so sent that back to them. I rescheduled my appointment for Tuesday because the codes should pop up by then. It only took a day to get the codes to pop back up after the first clear.
 

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You have to clear the codes with the car not running, at least in my case.

It’s most likely a leak on the turbo to downpipe connection-did they adjust that? Also, straight up man I just don’t trust my dealer that’s why I take it to the shop I used to work at where I know the guy there will take the time and make it perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
They didn't touch the dp, I didn't trust them with that. It was installed by myself months ago and never had any issues since the muffler replacement. I'm also wondering tho if the tune had anything to do with it.

First goal is to get the codes to pop back up on the stock ecu.

If I can do that, I'm going to buy all new gaskets and completely reinstall my exhaust myself. They even left the alignment off on my pipes and it looks like it has a lazy eye.

If I can't get the codes to come back up on the stock ecu, then I have a lot more questions and troubleshooting to do, I hope that won't be the case tho.
 

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Right I see where you’re coming from.

I really doubt it’s from the tune itself-not more than pushing more exhaust gas=more opportunity for bad readings. Can you run your ac on non circulating and smell exhaust?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have the big ass forge intake so I couldn't hear it even if I tried. If you mean the A/C test you suggested by trying to smell for exhaust in non circulating mode then I did that as well without noticing anything.

I'm just gonna do some runs on a private highway tonight to try and get the code to come back up.

Also if you're talking about the stud from where the turbo and downpipe connect those are golden since the mechs didn't touch those and I torqued them to spec long ago.
 

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P2196 HYUNDAI code possible causes;


1. Faulty Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1
2. Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1
3. harness is open or shorted
4. Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 circuit
5. poor electrical connection
6. Inappropriate fuel pressure
7. Faulty fuel injectors
8. Intake air leaks may be faulty
9. Vacuums leaks


P2196 HYUNDAI code description The front heated oxygen sensor (or O2 sensor 1) is placed into the exhaust manifold. It detects the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas compared to the outside air. The heated oxygen sensor 1 has a closed-end tube made of ceramic zirconia. The zirconia generates voltage from approximately 1V in richer conditions to 0V in leaner conditions. The heated oxygen sensor 1 signal is sent to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The ECM adjusts the injection pulse duration to achieve the ideal air-fuel ratio. The ideal air-fuel ratio occurs near the radical change from 1V to 0V.

Start with this. It’s the possibility of a damaged oxygen sensor.

When did this start, after install or replacement of what? Work backwards from the most recent modifications.

P2096 HYUNDAI code possible causes;

1. Low fuel pressure
2. Misfire condition
3. Large vacuum leak
4. Air leak near sensor
5. Plugged catalytic converter
7. Lean air/fuel ratio
8. Faulty front O2 sensor

Check the 02 sensors for the proper seal. If it’s leaking around the threads, it can cause a similar issue.

May also be a damaged sensor.

I’ll think on this some more
 

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I have experience with 2096. You just need an extension-if it doesn’t clear then probably damaged sensor.

2196 I’m spitballing based on limited research-but if it’s not a leak it might be damaged-but wouldn’t it be damaged the moment you put the dp back in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
2096 came up permanent last night, finally.

I thought about having the dealer look at it since they were the last ones to touch my car but I really should have the j bend mini cat put on first so I'm going to do that this weekend instead and double check the install(gaskets, bolts, etc).

I have my spare ecu unlocked being sent back with an ek1pro. I'm eager to get everything working properly before I'm tuned again.
 

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2096 came up permanent last night, finally.

I thought about having the dealer look at it since they were the last ones to touch my car but I really should have the j bend mini cat put on first so I'm going to do that this weekend instead and double check the install(gaskets, bolts, etc).

I have my spare ecu unlocked being sent back with an ek1pro. I'm eager to get everything working properly before I'm tuned again.
Sounds like the best route. Just an aside: if you attempt to clear the code after you’ve installed your extension while the car is running it won’t clear. You have to put the car ignition to “white” with no clutch and then it’ll clear
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Could not find my j bend, had to order another one.

Decided to just order everything else too and fix it all in one go. I still have the arp studs I should have installed the first time I did the dp anyway.

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If anyone knows of cheaper O2 sensors let me know otherwise I'll get this order placed tonight.
 

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Just have to look at the shipping comparison.

Shopping Cart
  • part Img

    Part No.: 39210-2GPD0SENSOR ASSY-OXYGENRemove
    $133.58
    1
  • part Img

    Part No.: 28751-25000GASKET-EXHAUST PIPERemove
    $10.49
    1
  • part Img

    Part No.: 39210-2GPD1SENSOR ASSY-OXYGENRemove
    $133.58
    1
  • part Img

    Part No.: 28751-4H100GASKET-EXHAUST PIPERemove
    $9.01
    1
  • part Img

    Part No.: 28535-2G350GASKET-CATALYST CASERemove
    $26.08
    1
    << Continue Shopping
    Subtotal: $312.74
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Resurrecting my old post.

Got my car back from the shop not too long ago and got all my car to replace everything related to the exhaust.

For some reason, I thought the issue was due to the O2 sensor AFTER the cat. After talking to my Hyundai service manager, he kindly informed me bank 1 sensor 1 is the top O2 sensor by the manifold.

I have purchased all new gaskets for the exhaust and downpipe connecting to the turbo.

I have purchased an MCK 90 degree bung with mini cat. I also purchased both O2 sensors.

It's going to get cold this week in Arkansas with some rain, not sure if I will be able to get this done this week. Hoping after getting all of these installed and double checking the tolerances and torque specs on everything during the re-install.

A concern I have is the clamps on the AFE midpipe. These things are extremely hard for me to get tight without feeling like I'm going to bend the midpipe itself.

Does anyone know the torque specs for the clamps to hold the AFE connecting points in place(it comes in 3 pieces unfortunately...)? I contacted them with no response.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I needed the torque specs for the clamps for the aftermarket afe mid pipe. I called and they said 35 ftlbs should do the trick. Let's hope
 
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