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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
It's not the same pump from the Veloster. Cool your jets Ghost Rider.

Have you created a Customer Complaint Ticket with Hyundai Customer Service?

Are they providing you with a loaner?

Did you get a copy of the Service Work Order that said it was water in the fuel?

Water in the fuel system is always there from one extent to another. Water in the fuel system is not going to cause FI failure or High pressure pump failure. He's not doing you a favor, they have an obligation to fix the problems under warranty. If they can produce any supporting evidence or tangible proof it was water in the system. Then it didn't happen and they can't utilize it as an excuse or cause.

Consumer Affairs is a good place to start to get their attention. File a BBB and FTC Complaint. It can be done online and very quickly. Contact a Lawyer as a last resort. Give them his card and let them know they will have to deal directly with the attorney of your choice.

Don't do the; what if's, shoulds coulds, woulds or ought's etc. Stick to what happening right now. You're just upsetting yourself for no good reason. Stay calm collected and self-controlled and don't lose your temper. Use consumer laws against them. Time to start studying up on them as well. Screw the service manager. Go directly to the Dealership Manager and possibly the owners.

Yes, I called Hyundai corporate and made the complaint then this lady called me and three wayd me on with the service department.

No they are not providing me with a loaner. They are always all out apparently. I've been taking an uber or getting my parents to take me to and from work or co-workers. Glad to still have parents only 10mins. from my home as a 32 year old man lol.

I guess they call Hyundai customer service or Hyundai corporate consumer affairs I don't really know.

The car has been tried to be fixed 3 times and it's there for the 4th now. Lemon Law states 3 is the max needed or 30 days in service. 30 days in service is coming up soon as well. So I guess I can already start writing a letter for this.

I also have hard proof of being lied to so I'll always have that based on pictures of the miles of my car before and after they told me to pick it up showing that they didn't test drive it at all when they said they had multiple times. It's funny that the car the night before at my house had 1280 miles on it and when I went to go pick it up 5 days later it had 1282 miles on it. The 2 miles it took me to drive from my house to the dealer. They said they drove it the day before I picked it up and were testing it the whole time but huge lie there. Now they believe me that the car has issues since it wouldn't even start when they gave it back to me at the dealer.

The service manager also stated he'd let me know by lunch today and I never heard from him.

I do have the first service paper work which stated gas was too rich that's all it says tho but I asked for proof the other day and they only have that in writing they don't have gas, burnt plugs or whatever else to show for. Not sure what all they need to be considered 100% proof.

I'll try to contact someone higher up at Lee Hyundai tomorrow.

I made a complaint with the BBB and FTC as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
Also wanted to get everyone's opinion on this.

The first time the car broke down they were trying to find out what was wrong with it. They told me they looked at the dip stick and it looked like the oil was over filled from the factory so they drained it out and put oil back in. Then they told me that that wasn't the issue that the car had the wrong dip stick in it from the factory so the fill line markings were not correct for the Veloster N and they found that out after they put the new oil in. I asked if they could get me the correct one and they said they don't make a dip stick for the Veloster N so they couldn't get me one. Then they stated they thought it might be bad gas.

I go to pay the bill and they added a $50 charge for the oil they had to put back into the car because they made a mistake and drained the oil because of the wrong dip stick the factory put in the car.

This makes no sense to me as to why there would be no correct dip stick to the car but also doesn't make sense why they'd charge me for the oil that they screwed up with?

Just thought I'd add this to this post as this forum post is my detailed account and I don't think I put this in here.

I know I'm don't seem to be dealing with the brightest service department Hyundai has to offer right now but if they are right then that means all Veloster Ns have the wrong dip stick lol.
 

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I find that hard to believe but could explain why they all seem to be "overfilled" from the factory.
 

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Also wanted to get everyone's opinion on this.

The first time the car broke down they were trying to find out what was wrong with it. They told me they looked at the dip stick and it looked like the oil was over filled from the factory so they drained it out and put oil back in. Then they told me that that wasn't the issue that the car had the wrong dip stick in it from the factory so the fill line markings were not correct for the Veloster N and they found that out after they put the new oil in. I asked if they could get me the correct one and they said they don't make a dip stick for the Veloster N so they couldn't get me one. Then they stated they thought it might be bad gas.

I go to pay the bill and they added a $50 charge for the oil they had to put back into the car because they made a mistake and drained the oil because of the wrong dip stick the factory put in the car.

This makes no sense to me as to why there would be no correct dip stick to the car but also doesn't make sense why they'd charge me for the oil that they screwed up with?

Just thought I'd add this to this post as this forum post is my detailed account and I don't think I put this in here.

I know I'm don't seem to be dealing with the brightest service department Hyundai has to offer right now but if they are right then that means all Veloster Ns have the wrong dip stick lol.
This is Bull Pucky your dealership is feeding you. You're dealing with dipsticks!! They don't know and are guessing.

If they didn't drain the entire fuel system inclusive of changing the fuel canister and fuel filter, then they don't know nor can't verify what they're claiming. Fuel and water separate and are not soluble. As fuel drains out from the system and settles into a proper container, the water will be at the bottom and clearly visible.

Honestly, you need to get the car running and take it to another competent Hyundai Service Department.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
The Department of Agriculture got the results back from a test they did at the Sams I bought the gas and it came back normal. I also called Sams again and they have had no complaints about any bad gas.

Sounds like I need to get a refund from previous work and not pay for anymore work done on my car.
 

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Yep, it sure does and make the dealership service department show you specifically where they found gas in the system. Get it running or have them take it to another dealership service department afterwards. The dealership service is certainly incompetent and engaged in possibly some fraudulent activity.

You have some cannon fodder now to assist you in the report. Make an appointment with the dealership manager and owner if possible. Present your information.

What dealership are you utilizing?? Everyone here needs to know and those who bought from them, to stay away from their service department.
 

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Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
Yep, it sure does and make the dealership service department show you specifically where they found gas in the system. Get it running or have them take it to another dealership service department afterwards. The dealership service is certainly incompetent and engaged in possibly some fraudulent activity.

You have some cannon fodder now to assist you in the report. Make an appointment with the dealership manager and owner if possible. Present your information.

What dealership are you utilizing?? Everyone here needs to know and those who bought from them, to stay away from their service department.

I doubt anyone lives around here but if they ever do and see this post I’m using Lee Hyundai in Florence, SC.
 

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Never know it might save them some heartache and frustration.

I'm sure sorry you're going thru this. Just remember, it's not the car so much as the incompetent techs.

I talked again to my friend who works for Hyundai and he's now going on a month since the Fuel Injectors have been changed and it solved the issue. It was done by a Hyundai Engineer as well.

I'll keep you up to date on any other issues that come up.
 

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Discussion Starter #69 (Edited)
I reached out to them today because I hadn't heard anything. Not sure why I have to reach out every few days anyways and why they won't update me.
They said they are talking with Hyundai Engineers. They replaced the fuel pump and the problem is still occurring so they ordered some fuel lines because they might think it's something collapsing or collapsed I think is what he was saying.

Hyundai Corporate reached out as well and they put me through to the lemon law department. They are going to review and see if I'm eligible for the lemon law. She said she keep calling me about the repair of the car and if it gets fixed so not sure what's up with that.



I shouldn't have to call and find out in order to get them to do that for me. These should be things they should've already offered and they should be following up with me and not leaving me in the dark for a whole week.
They are also finally giving me a loaner vehicle in the morning hopefully.

Anyways guess I'll see what happens. Hopefully all this work on my VIN hasn't devalued the car significantly and we will see if they can fix it.
 

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Mat there's a lot of should in your comments. What you imagine, envision or your personal expectations are not reality with this particular dealership. Keep on them every few days, let them no you're not satisfied with the progress.

They'll be able to fix it or they won't. Most likely they will if they put enough new parts on it. It's all part of your warranty. If they can't, then they'll have to make it right.

Simply tell them not to report any of the work to any 3 party auto information companies, ie CarFax etc. You have this right to do so and they have to oblige.

Ask them in passing, if they checked the crank position sensor or replaced it. If it's a crank position sensor malfunction or the sensor has gone bad, it will keep the care from running.

P0335 Symptoms;

Vehicle won’t start at all (timing dependent)
Rough running motor

The crankshaft sensor is often the reason that P0335 is thrown. They aren’t very expensive, and are right up front between the cylinder head and radiator. It could be a little as corrosion on the lead especially in the position it's located. You live in a rain and snow climate and is exposed to the elements coming thru the radiator. It's a common Hyundai problem. Part #39180
 

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Discussion Starter #71
They'll be able to fix it or they won't. Most likely they will if they put enough new parts on it. It's all part of your warranty. If they can't, then they'll have to make it right.

Simply tell them not to report any of the work to any 3 party auto information companies, ie CarFax etc. You have this right to do so and they have to oblige.

Ask them in passing, if they checked the crank position sensor or replaced it. If it's a crank position sensor malfunction or the sensor has gone bad, it will keep the care from running.

P0335 Symptoms;

Vehicle won’t start at all (timing dependent)
Rough running motor

The crankshaft sensor is often the reason that P0335 is thrown. They aren’t very expensive, and are right up front between the cylinder head and radiator. It could be a little as corrosion on the lead especially in the position it's located. You live in a rain and snow climate and is exposed to the elements coming thru the radiator. It's a common Hyundai problem. Part #39180
I asked them about the crank sensor and they said they checked it. It also is not giving that code or any codes right now. Never has gotten that code before yet.

They are installing new fuel lines today. I'll update ya'll with that info. when I find out something.

It rains here but hardly ever snows. Snows or ices maybe once or twice every couple years. Hasn't snowed this year or iced yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
I texted the service manager to see where they were at. They replaced the lines and he said it wasn’t stalling now but it’s still starting rough so they are doing compression test.

I don’t know enough to know what all that could mean.

Any ideas?
 

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Well first off hard starting may mean the fuel system might need to be purged. Changing fuel lines will often cause this.

Not stalling is a good thing. This at least, means their close to the possible issue.

They're checking the cylinder compression, to make sure there's nothing wrong internally..A compression test reveals the condition of your engine's valves, its valve seats, and piston rings and whether these parts are wearing evenly. This is a common diagnostic method of insuring the engine is running within OEM specification. The proper cylinder pressure is important for performance. They should do both a static and leak down compression check.
 

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no update on this orr?
 

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Don't they have lemon laws in SC? At this point I'd be fed up and just ask corporate for a new VN altogether.

Also, can anyone kindly provide the TSB # for the injectors? I've been waiting for this for a while since I may be a victim to slightly leaky injectors.

Best of luck OP...you sure are far more patient than I am.
 

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Discussion Starter #77 (Edited)
Don't they have lemon laws in SC? At this point I'd be fed up and just ask corporate for a new VN altogether.

Also, can anyone kindly provide the TSB # for the injectors? I've been waiting for this for a while since I may be a victim to slightly leaky injectors.

Best of luck OP...you sure are far more patient than I am.
They do. The 30 days in service just went by so I am going to persue that Monday. I've already been in contact with Hyundai Lemon department. Probably will get a lawyer to write a letter next week and hopefully that won't be a lot because been spending a lot on adult things lately.

I might be able to get the TSB# when I contact them next week.
 

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no update on this orr?
Why would you care? It doesn't affect a slagged out old 016 Veloster or someone who doesn't own a Veloster N.:grin: I see you're still lurking and trolling around every Veloster Forum.

@punkmanmatthew; don't waste your time with this troll. This is what he does and doesn't even own a Veloster N.
 

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You're simply mistaken and obviously not actually used any before.

The test you quoted, is for small engines and engines used intermittently. This is why you utilize a fuel stabilizer for such engines and storage. We however are talking about a VN that carries over 13 gallons of fuel and is not being stored for long periods of time.

The issue is the amount of water the fuel contain and the amount of condensation that's not being burnt off during combustion. Left to its own, E-10 and higher Ethanol fuels will separate over long storage and leave a brown sludge in the tank if an Ethanol Fuel Stabilizer is not utilized.



For reference; 20 teaspoons of water in a 14 oz cup is 1/3 of the size of the cup utilized. In 12 gallons this amounts to over 5 14 oz cups of water, which is dispersed into the fuel system thru FI, pumps, filters, fuel lines and tank.
The water comes from separation in the storage tanks and the active filtration of the station not removing or filtering it. Don't go back to the station you got it from and report it to the state to make the seller fix the filtration system.

However, you always start with the obvious first and work you way into one of three system, Air, Fuel, and Electrical. It's simply dynamics of the engine. You eliminate one before you go to another. The most expedient route is, to utilize a fuel dryer to quickly eliminate an presence of any excess water in the fuel system and then fill the tank with a premium high test fuel to see if it eliminates the issue. If it does, then the problem is solved. If it doesn't moving forward then you check, fuel pressure and so on. This is common mechanical knowledge and experience.

FFS you are really something.



My point was that if there's so much water in the fuel that the 10% ethanol already in the fuel has reached phase separation adding a little bottle of more alcohol isn't going to help much. That's what the point of that article was, but somehow despite reading it you found only what supported your preconceived notions and dismissed the rest. Small engines use the same gas from the same pumps as cars do. The article was written as advice for farmers but the water removal portion of the test applies just the same to fuel bought for use in a car.



It's not even difficult to try this stuff yourself. Take a gallon of fresh 10% ethanol gas and add water to it while stirring it. You can add quite a bit of water before it stops mixing in and starts to visibly separate. Now take a gallon of ethanol free gas and add water... it separates right away. Add the same amount of water that you did to reach the separation point in the E10 gas and now add some fuel drier to it. You have to add a LOT of fuel drier to get all the water to mix back in. I mean FFS it's not rocket science, you can try this easily at home (I did this demo at work to explain this to my other techs so they would stop attempting to fix water problems in cars with HEET before taking a fuel sample and testing it first).


Sorry, not trying to sidetrack the thread, I caught up with it and see that they found that it wasn't a water issue after all.


To me it honestly sounds like the dealer screwed something up on the car and has been trying to cover their own ass. I can't figure why else they're giving you such a song and dance on it.
 

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I'm going to say this again for posterity sake. You need to go back and read from the point of the op's problem. This would be from the beginning. Then, attempt to offer up some useful mechanical practical experience or information. If not, just don't comment

I don't need to do anything especially what you're suggesting, as it's already been done multitudes of times. The op's problem isn't about you, straight up!
but somehow despite reading it you found only what supported your preconceived notions and dismissed the rest.
This^ is your preconceived notion, (presumption and assumption) not mine. I don't have preconceived notions, only practical mechanical advice, suggestions and explanations intended to help the op understand what's happening. You have no idea where to start. It's highly obvious! You haven't read the entire thread and have no idea what you're talking about.
Sorry, not trying to sidetrack the thread, I caught up with it and see that they found that it wasn't a water issue after all.
Yes you are, for you own self-enamoring and gratifying purpose.

Frankly, I don't give a crap about what you've done, this whole topic isn't about you. He nor I require your tutorial commentary, lecturing or tuitulage over something you obviously know little about has even less to do about his issue.
To me it honestly sounds like the dealer screwed something up on the car and has been trying to cover their own ass. I can't figure why else they're giving you such a song and dance on it.
It wasn't the dealer that caused the car to stop running twice, with a possible FI issue. In reality you don't know, can't say and have no idea. It's not your car and you've not experience it personally or had a similar event.

If you want to provide more diatribe about your self-importance, go start your own thread and post about it. Then, you'll be able to tell everyone how self-important you are and why. :rolleyes:

Please do, attempt to keep the op's topic of discussion on track by offering practical and mechanical information, pertaining to his specific issue. If not, then exercise some personal restraint, self-control and discipline by not commenting.
wasn't a water issue after all.
Based on the input from op who began this thread and from the first dealership visit, it was and still hasn't been confirmed or denied by the dealer or op. Seriously, you're calling the op & op's dealership liars, without the faintest clue, shred of mechanical or technical evidence. In reality, you know very little about what you're commenting too.
I can't figure why else they're giving you such a song and dance on it.
This is because you're focused and limited to your own personally self-centered conclusions. You haven't allowed yourself to think about the myriad of possible real life scenarios affecting the present outcome.

Enough said; I apologize to the op for the dirt road but seriously, @destrux you haven't given the first thought to the op's VN issue, either mechanically or practically. You've offered zero assistance or information regarding the possible problem, with the exception to what you continue to plagiarize off the internet. You're adding nothing but additional frustration to the op's personal stress by your pessimistic, arbitrary comments. You have a private agenda; of attempting to argue with me, about every little technical aspect you can find on the internet. Of which, you're personally ignorant and have little to no practical experience with.

You're definately not what you claim to be "Christian W.", end of story.
 
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