The prices for brake pads at the dealer are pretty expensive. The few aftermarket options I found were priced even higher. Does anyone know where to get a cheaper set of brake pads? If the calipers for this car cross reference from another model, the model and year would be helpful as well. Thanks.
OK I have both the Porterfield R-4 Veloster Turbo pads and G-LOC R8 N pads with me and yeah, Turbo pads definitely won't fit our cars. Hawk should REALLY not be listing Turbo pads fitting our cars because they won't. I don't know why they listed Turbo pads fitting N cars in the first place but it's now 100% confirmed that it is completely wrong. So currently, Hawk still doesn't make a pad for the N.
Porterfield R-4, review after a couple of months of street driving and 3 track days. Pro's on the track, much more initial bite, very good modulation under heavy and trail breaking, no hint of over heating. At least in the summer months, on the street, no issue of lack of braking torque from cold pads/rotors. Con's, noisy while on the track, no big deal, a lot of squeaking on the street and dusty. Did I say dusty, very dusty but easy to wash off.
A couple of close friends who are instructors at various OTD hosting venues have driven my car for shits and giggles testing it's limits were very impressed with the braking upgrade.
Yep, part of the game with race pads. Plus from the extreme heat, whatever is added to the back to the pad can contaminate the other brake components... Speaking from experience...
Not really, anti-squeal is very different from (anti-seize), which is something you utilized on your brakes. Never use anti-seize on any brake components. Anti-seize contains graphite, which is a powdered metal lubricant. Once it melts at around 500 degrees F it's spreads like a thick film, causing severely diminished braking capability and contamination of metal surfaces.
Anti-squeal contains an elastomeric polymer, that doesn't cause any issues for the pads or interfere with braking capability, as it'sapplied to the back of the pad.
There are anti-squeal shims that can be utilized as well, to diminish brake squeal.
Not really, anti-squeal is very different from (anti-seize), which is something you utilized on your brakes. Never use anti-seize on any brake components. Anti-seize contains graphite, which is a powdered metal lubricant. Once it melts at around 500 degrees F it's spreads like a thick film, causing severely diminished braking capability and contamination of metal surfaces.
Anti-squeal contains an elastomeric polymer, that doesn't cause any issues for the pads or interfere with braking capability, as it'sapplied to the back of the pad.
There are anti-squeal shims that can be utilized as well, to diminish brake squeal.
Make sure you clean everything off with brake cleaner and buy a brake hone and scuff off the rotor surfaces. It's really important, especially to remove any residual graphite. Just stick it on a drill and scuff the entire surface back and front. You regain your braking power, honing them often. It's gets rid of glaze frothe pad as well.
Also on the FMIC pipes; prep them beforehand by utilizing two hose clamps. I'm kind of at a loss as to why they don't require safety wiring such parts. We have to in all motorcycle track venues. Last thing; Use brake line covers from DEI. They'll preclude any chaffing or issues from heat. they got a lot of heat shielding products that helps keep heat soak down in the engine compartment.
I scuffed the pads and sanded them. Using them on new rotors. Old rotor is chilling. I might do that. It has cracks, but it still have some life in it.
A brake hone does wonders for rotor refurbishing between pad changes but these are a little beyond that. However, buy one anyway and keep it your tool box.
You can take these rotors to a Pep Boys and have all four turned for $15 to $25 to see how deep the cracking or crazing is and if they're salvageable. If there's enough left, you'll be able to get more use from them and increasing braking performance all the way around in the process.
Genracer says they fit, but all other websites say they DO NOT fit (DP32343C and DP32344C). Does anyone have the proper part #'s for the EBC Redstuff - that is a known fit for the Veloster N Performance Package? Thanks.
Yellows aren’t much better for track... wore through a set after one day at laguna had to upgrade to pagids after that it was much better... the difference between 120$ pads and 300$ pads
EBC has even better-looking Bluestuff compound now, but I can't find a fit for the N anywhere. It seems like finding performance pads is an issue for the stock caliper sizing -- anyone have any good experience with just upgrading to a more standard-size caliper?
I have been running the EBC Bluestuff this entire summer of track events. They have fantastic stopping power and low dust. I paired them with GiroDisc rotors. Flushed in some RBF660. If you need a source, I can try and get you one. My shop deals directly with EBC to acquire them for me.
Dragging up an old thread to ask about pad selection. Here is my situation:
I like the stock pads for street driving and the little bit of auto x I have done. They also work well on track sprints where you are just doing a partial lap each run. We also take a yearly trip to RVD to drive the tail of the dragon and the mountain roads. IMO the stock pads are awesome for all of this. Is there something out there that is equivalent or better for these driving situations and perhaps not as pricy as the OEM pads?
I have a separate set of rotors and Glock R12 pads for track days. This was my first summer with them and they were great at the track. They did burn the powder coat on my calipers though. Glad I took off the covers before switching to them for the summer.
1. Elantra N pads have slightly more torque and are cheaper
2. Pagid RSL2 pads from Genracer. More torque than both OEM options and less abusive than the Gloc R12
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